Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com
 
Rick@Livernois
Go Back   Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com > Engine | Drivetrain | Powertrain Technical Discussions > Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing

Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing Discussions on mechanical maintenance and servicing of your Camaro

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 09-13-2009, 12:03 PM   #1
alwayson
 
Drives: Ford Taurus
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 6
Exclamation Correct Break In Procedure

I edited this post, because people misunderstood some of my key points.

1) Do not excessively rev engine until 30 minutes of drive time in winter. It takes 30 minutes for the oil to reach the proper viscosity in winter. Much less during summer. Much less if you are using 0w20 synthetic.

2) While DRIVING ON THE ROAD, rev away through the entire RPM range, up and down, up and down, up and down. Redline it, and come back down to 0, and then slowly go back up to redline. As long as step 1 has been completed, you cannot damage your engine. Plus you really NEED to do this for proper break in.

3) When you decide to change the oil for the first time, the oil must be HOT for the metal filings to come out. So what you need to do is get the oil hot, and then also let it settle down for 10 minutes or so. Then immediately change it.

Last edited by alwayson; 09-14-2009 at 06:39 PM.
alwayson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2009, 12:06 PM   #2
alwayson
 
Drives: Ford Taurus
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 6
Thus in theory, a LONG road trip with the 30 minute warmup in the beginning, followed by constantly varying rev range, and concluded by an oil change at the destination after the oil settles down (yet still hot), would be the ultimate.

Last edited by alwayson; 09-13-2009 at 12:43 PM.
alwayson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2009, 09:37 PM   #3
Darin Morgan
Reher Morrison Racing
 
Darin Morgan's Avatar
 
Drives: Inferno Orange SS/RS
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Arlington TEXAS
Posts: 250
Student ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by alwayson View Post
I have been a student of break in and oil for some time.

1) Do not rev engine until 30 minutes. It takes 30 minutes for the oil to reach the proper viscosity.

2) Rev away through the entire RPM range, up and down, up and down, up and down. Redline it, and come back down to 0, and then slowly go back up to redline. As long as step 1 has been completed, you cannot damage your engine. Plus you really NEED to do this for proper break in.

3) When you decide to change the oil for the first time, the oil must be HOT for the metal filings to come out. So what you need to do is get the oil hot, and then also let it settle down for 10 minutes or so. Then immediately change it.
As a practicing "break in" specialist who has seated thousands of race engines I do agree with some of what you have outlined just so long asthe engine is on a dynometer and not in the car. You forgot to mention the most important factor. Load factor. Your also referring to engine dyno break in procedures which has no use for people who already have the engine in the car. The dyno break in procedure your referring to can control load in BOTH directions,, up and down through the rpm range. You cant control the decreased rpm load in a car like you can on a dyno so the "up and down" rpm range your referring to has no use at all in a car.,. Free revving or revving with little to no load up and down through the RPM range does little to nothing for ring seating.

I see no reason to use the break in procedure you outlined unless your on an engine dyno!

I despise misinformation and as a professional engine builder and designer I will not let it stand.
__________________
2010 Camaro SS/RS IOM, 475rwhp 415ft/lbs Cam-232°/245° .612 .612 113LSA. Precision 3500 stall, New Era CAI. Reher Morrison Heads, Manifold and TB. Ferrea H-stems, dual springs, Ti-retainers. American Racing long tubes-Xpipe, High flow CATs, "S"type Borla's. 160F Thermo.
VVT ACTIVE! Thanks to New Era Performance!



Darin Morgan
-Induction R&D-EFI calibration
Reher-Morrison Racing Engines
http://www.rehermorrison.com/rmSale3.htm
Phone 817-467-7171
cell 682-559-0321



Darin Morgan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2009, 09:53 PM   #4
joelster
 
Drives: '94 Z28+ '14 1LE
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Tonawanda, NY
Posts: 668
Quote:
Originally Posted by alwayson View Post
I have been a student of break in and oil for some time.

1) Do not rev engine until 30 minutes. It takes 30 minutes for the oil to reach the proper viscosity.
30 minutes? really? I have no idea how you came up with that random number.

Quote:
Originally Posted by alwayson View Post
2) Rev away through the entire RPM range, up and down, up and down, up and down. Redline it, and come back down to 0, and then slowly go back up to redline. As long as step 1 has been completed, you cannot damage your engine. Plus you really NEED to do this for proper break in.
Again, really? Just spinning it in neutral or park? You might want to ease into the throttle and take it to redline smoothly them back off, all while it is in drive .

Quote:
Originally Posted by alwayson View Post
3) When you decide to change the oil for the first time, the oil must be HOT for the metal filings to come out. So what you need to do is get the oil hot, and then also let it settle down for 10 minutes or so. Then immediately change it.
Hrmm....I hope the proper oil filter catches the filings. That is what oil filters usually do.

I would suggest a first oil change after 1000 miles.
joelster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2009, 10:13 PM   #5
alwayson
 
Drives: Ford Taurus
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 6
Yes you do it while driving, not neutral or park. Thats why I mentioned the long road trip...


30 minutes is not a random number. Thats how the major oil companies measure and determine the viscosities of their oils.

For example, do you think 5w-30 refers to non-operating temperatures?!


To Mr. Morgan, all I meant by "up and down" is to constantly vary the RPM's through the entire band while driving during the break in period.

Last edited by alwayson; 09-13-2009 at 10:23 PM.
alwayson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2009, 10:22 PM   #6
joelster
 
Drives: '94 Z28+ '14 1LE
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Tonawanda, NY
Posts: 668
Quote:
Originally Posted by alwayson View Post
Yes you do it while driving, not neutral or park. Thats why I mentioned the long road trip...


30 minutes is not a random number. Thats what I learned on the major oil forum.


To Mr. Morgan, all I meant by "up and down" is to constantly vary the RPM's while driving.

30 minutes of idling or 30 minutes of hard spirited driving? I can see a HUGE difference in the 2. That number is just plain wrong anyways. It takes roughly 3-4 minutes for a motor to reach closed loop mode. Do you know what closed loop mode is? At the 6-7 minute mark the motor will be 100% at full operating temperature, depending on outside ambient temperature, and the load placed on the motor. The oil pump will be able to EASILY flow every ounce of oil throughout the motor withing a few minutes of normal driving. That oil will be at optimum temperature a few minutes after that. Under a loaded scenario, all of these steps will be shortened as well.

I'm not sure where you have been studying to be a student of proper engine break-in.

Here's a simpler way to break a new motor in.

1. Drive the car normally.
2. Don't beat the snot out of it until it is at operating temperature.
3. Don't beat the snot out of it all the time.
4. Drive the car normally.
5. Change the oil at 1000 miles for the 1st oil change.
joelster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2009, 07:59 PM   #7
joelster
 
Drives: '94 Z28+ '14 1LE
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Tonawanda, NY
Posts: 668
I think it's a little bit funny that you have edited every one of your posts, and you drive a Taurus while posting on a Camaro forum.
joelster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2009, 02:58 PM   #8
zebra
just can't seem to leave
 
zebra's Avatar
 
Drives: your mom wild!!
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: cold & windy
Posts: 11,604
__________________
zebra is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-16-2009, 10:30 PM   #9
Sinergy
 
Sinergy's Avatar
 
Drives: em crazy.
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Right here
Posts: 306
Quote:
Originally Posted by joelster View Post
I think it's a little bit funny that you have edited every one of your posts, and you drive a Taurus while posting on a Camaro forum.
I remember from my college days looking at a paper I'd finished the night before thinking "Damn, that made alot more sense last night when I was drunk".
Sinergy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-16-2009, 11:47 PM   #10
Bentley78
Rice Cooker
 
Bentley78's Avatar
 
Drives: Avalanche Z/71, 2010 Camaro2SS
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Hawaii/Phoenix
Posts: 593
I think Darin Morgans thread will suffice in engine break in procedures.

Please delete this thread!!
Bentley78 is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Break In Period?!?!?! SimC33 Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing 87 07-07-2012 06:27 PM
The BEST Break for a new car. "very long" Darin Morgan General Automotive + Other Cars Discussion 346 02-04-2010 07:49 PM
When to do proformance upgrades...during breakin or post break in?? iwanttogofastNY Camaro V8 LS3 / L99 Engine, Exhaust, and Bolt-Ons 2 06-20-2009 11:38 PM
IOM Mismatch Paint Theory 2010SSRS 5th Gen Camaro SS LS LT General Discussions 24 05-26-2009 09:57 AM
Break In boricat Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing 8 05-01-2009 02:51 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:07 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.