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Old 12-16-2009, 07:34 PM   #35
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Yeah was $609 to be exact I am a Brembo dealer and they hooked it up on the first batch for my personal car.

I still am deliberating to install them or not. I like the Slotted/Drilled Stillen ones better but lets see the price. Im not in any hurry its winter for me anyway.

Slotted works best thats my experience the drilled just looks more obvious to the naked eye as a mod. Thats why the Stillen ones give best of both worlds i would think.

Brembo also told me they are offering a Caliper only upgrade to use the OEM rotors, you can do a large 6 pot up front and 4 pot out back. its still costly around $4500 for both sets.

I think for 80% of us the stock stuff is fine with new pads, lines and basic rotors these big brake kits are pricey and overkill for most.
so you have slotted brmebos now and you dont want them? if you want to get rid of them let me know. ill take them off of your hands. i wanted slotted over drilled basically for performance more than look. and i would personally rather have the rotors from the company that makes the brakes because you know it works together and can handle what you put it through. let me know if your interested in dumping them or if you can hook me up on a set.
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Old 12-16-2009, 07:36 PM   #36
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55Designs, you are saying you paid $609 for your Brembo rotors, but is this a price the average consumer can find these rotors, or was that a one time deal for you? If it was a one time deal, then it's a bit misleading to say you can find them for $600/set. I see them on tirerack.com for $379 front and $362 rear.

To answer questions about pricing, the pricing was released this morning.

Front rotors will cost $299.26 for the cross drilled, $311.74 for the slotted, and $342.94 for the drilled/slotted.

Rear rotors are $283.66 cross drilled, $296.02 slotted, and $327.34 drilled/slotted.

Prices are for a pair of rotors, and currently are free shipping ($9.95 handling/insurance per order)


I am cleared to take pre-orders for them with an estimated ship date of mid January.

PM or email me if you would like more info.

Dan
pm sent
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Old 12-16-2009, 07:55 PM   #37
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so you have slotted brmebos now and you dont want them? if you want to get rid of them let me know. ill take them off of your hands. i wanted slotted over drilled basically for performance more than look. and i would personally rather have the rotors from the company that makes the brakes because you know it works together and can handle what you put it through. let me know if your interested in dumping them or if you can hook me up on a set.
Just so you know, Stillen has a brake only division (www.brake-pros.com). We have been producing brake upgrades for nearly 20 years. We are currently THE ONLY North American distributor for AP Racing road car brakes, and have been for years. Those of you familiar with motorsports and ultra high performance cars should know about AP Racing. Their brake components are found in nearly every racing series, and on many of the highest performance cars in the world. It could be said that we know a bit about brakes. Stillen isn't a 1 man shop buying the cheapest blanks available and machining them in a backroom somewhere.

The rotors that Stillen is releasing for the 2010 Camaro are a true OE quality rotor. Without going into boring details, they are produced using the same manufactirung techniques as the original equipment rotors. This means using tooling that is much more expensive than your average aftermarket brake rotor, but also results in a much higher quality part.

Rest assured, our rotors will stand up to anyone's both quality and performance wise.

Dan
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Old 12-16-2009, 07:59 PM   #38
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well can you email me some pics of them? im interested in just slotted. how much do they weigh?
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Old 12-16-2009, 08:08 PM   #39
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well can you email me some pics of them? im interested in just slotted. how much do they weigh?
The Camaro rotors won't be ready for release until mid January. There are pics of the GT500 rotors in this thread which will be nearly identical in looks.

The rotors themselves are the same weight as stock. The slotting process will reduce the weight by a few ounces, but you won't see any significant weight reduction out of any 1 piece rotor.

We are working on a 2 piece rotor that will be substantially lighter than the 1 piece rotors but that's a few months out still.

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Old 12-16-2009, 10:03 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by dan@stillen View Post
The Camaro rotors won't be ready for release until mid January. There are pics of the GT500 rotors in this thread which will be nearly identical in looks.

The rotors themselves are the same weight as stock. The slotting process will reduce the weight by a few ounces, but you won't see any significant weight reduction out of any 1 piece rotor.

We are working on a 2 piece rotor that will be substantially lighter than the 1 piece rotors but that's a few months out still.

Dan
i might be more interested in a 2 piece rotor. waiting isnt a issue for me. the cars put away. can you pm me when the 2 piece rotors come out and you have more info?
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Old 12-21-2009, 12:56 PM   #41
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i might be more interested in a 2 piece rotor. waiting isnt a issue for me. the cars put away. can you pm me when the 2 piece rotors come out and you have more info?
Absolutely.


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Old 12-21-2009, 07:18 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by dan@stillen View Post
Well, my personal belief is that our rotors are a bit higher quality. The slotting pattern is a bit different, and we use silver zinc plating. Oh, and our rotors are backed by a lifetime warranty against defects, including cracking and warping (unless subjected to racing or other abuse)


To answer the "which is better" question, there really isn't a "better". Slotted/drilled and drilled rotors are fine for the street, and even mild track use. For heavier track use i'd recommend slotted only.

FYI, both the Stillen Ford GT and GT-R race cars run slotted and drilled AP Racing rotors. Those cars get beaten 7 day 1000+ mile rally races all over the world and have performed flawlessly.

Dan
LIFETIME WARRANTY AGAINST WARPING? i'd be very interested, i've already warped 1 set of front rotors, getting ready to take it back for a 2nd set of warranty front rotors, i keep warping the front ones, car has just under 5k on it, first pair started to warp at about the 3k mark, second set after 1.5k of aggresive street driving, i can only imagine if i do a track day how bad they will be.
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Old 12-21-2009, 07:47 PM   #43
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LIFETIME WARRANTY AGAINST WARPING? i'd be very interested, i've already warped 1 set of front rotors, getting ready to take it back for a 2nd set of warranty front rotors, i keep warping the front ones, car has just under 5k on it, first pair started to warp at about the 3k mark, second set after 1.5k of aggresive street driving, i can only imagine if i do a track day how bad they will be.
Yes, our Stillen Sport Rotors are warranted against defects including warping and cracking for the life of the rotor (until it wears below the minimum thickness) under normal use...no racing abuse, and yes we can tell Out of curiosity, how are you driving the car that you're warping the rotors so quickly?


FYI, this is 1 reason that we didn't release an AP Racing caliper upgrade that uses the factory rotors. We don't feel that the stock rotors can handle the added stress produced by the larger calipers.


Dan
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Old 12-21-2009, 07:57 PM   #44
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Dan@stillan,

Shoot me a PM when you guys come up with a price.
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Old 12-22-2009, 12:49 AM   #45
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Racing Brakes are drilled slots.

Do yourself a favor and read up on all types. Weight, driled/slots, metals used, etc, all come into play.
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Old 12-22-2009, 01:21 AM   #46
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So what is the difference in Slotted VS Drilled VS Slotted/Drilled as far as longevity goes?

Will one last longer than the other?

How will each affect the pads? Will one wear them more than the other?

Thanks!
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Old 12-22-2009, 12:00 PM   #47
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So what is the difference in Slotted VS Drilled VS Slotted/Drilled as far as longevity goes?

Will one last longer than the other?

How will each affect the pads? Will one wear them more than the other?
For rotor longevity, here is the typical hierarchy: plain-faced rotors (no drilling or slots) are best. The next best are slotted, then cross-drilled and slotted, then cross-drilled. This is assuming all variants are quality rotors made from the same castings and thermal post-processing. Comparing one brand or manufacturing process to another will likely lead to different results. Also being assumed are that the pads are identical in each comparison. The more relevant fact here is that pad compound and the rotor's iron composition will have more influence on rotor wear than face pattern. Today's higher carbon, "damped iron" rotors seem to wear a bit faster than others.

For pad longevity, 1) plain-faced, 2) drilled, 3) cross-drilled and slotted, 4) slotted. Same disclaimers apply. Some pad compounds put up with drilling/slotting better than others.

Of course, plain-faced rotors do not have the improved pad bite that cross-drilled or cross-drilled and slotted do. This improved bite usually means slightly more pad wear, but usually worth it.

Drilling saves a little weight (usually less than 1 pound per rotor, depending on the rotor and how aggressive the pattern is), but not enough to make a noticeable difference on the street. The major reason it is done is for cold bite, followed by a more aggressive look. Concerns about premature cracking are normally reserved for track use, poor quality castings or improper drill patterns. There are ways to drill rotors correctly, but only a few sport rotor manufacturers seem to follow best practices.

There are a lot of myths floating around internet forums on this topic. You might want to be sure you are getting your information from a qualified source with many years of experience before making any decisions. One bad experience with cheap-o drilled rotors bought off of eBay does not an expert make, regardless if he/she possesses both a keyboard and free time.

Chris
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Old 12-22-2009, 07:52 PM   #48
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Thanks Chris!
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Old 12-22-2009, 08:40 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by dan@stillen View Post
The Camaro rotors won't be ready for release until mid January. There are pics of the GT500 rotors in this thread which will be nearly identical in looks.

The rotors themselves are the same weight as stock. The slotting process will reduce the weight by a few ounces, but you won't see any significant weight reduction out of any 1 piece rotor.

We are working on a 2 piece rotor that will be substantially lighter than the 1 piece rotors but that's a few months out still.

Dan
Please let us know when this is ready! I hope they will be drilled/slotted as well, if so consider me sold!!!
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Old 12-23-2009, 12:10 PM   #50
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For rotor longevity, here is the typical hierarchy: plain-faced rotors (no drilling or slots) are best. The next best are slotted, then cross-drilled and slotted, then cross-drilled. This is assuming all variants are quality rotors made from the same castings and thermal post-processing. Comparing one brand or manufacturing process to another will likely lead to different results. Also being assumed are that the pads are identical in each comparison. The more relevant fact here is that pad compound and the rotor's iron composition will have more influence on rotor wear than face pattern. Today's higher carbon, "damped iron" rotors seem to wear a bit faster than others.

For pad longevity, 1) plain-faced, 2) drilled, 3) cross-drilled and slotted, 4) slotted. Same disclaimers apply. Some pad compounds put up with drilling/slotting better than others.

Of course, plain-faced rotors do not have the improved pad bite that cross-drilled or cross-drilled and slotted do. This improved bite usually means slightly more pad wear, but usually worth it.

Drilling saves a little weight (usually less than 1 pound per rotor, depending on the rotor and how aggressive the pattern is), but not enough to make a noticeable difference on the street. The major reason it is done is for cold bite, followed by a more aggressive look. Concerns about premature cracking are normally reserved for track use, poor quality castings or improper drill patterns. There are ways to drill rotors correctly, but only a few sport rotor manufacturers seem to follow best practices.

There are a lot of myths floating around internet forums on this topic. You might want to be sure you are getting your information from a qualified source with many years of experience before making any decisions. One bad experience with cheap-o drilled rotors bought off of eBay does not an expert make, regardless if he/she possesses both a keyboard and free time.

Chris
Chris is 100% correct. In fact, it sounds like he might be an engineer

Dan
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Old 12-23-2009, 12:42 PM   #51
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In fact, it sounds like he might be an engineer
That's "recovering engineer" to you, sir.
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