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Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing Discussions on mechanical maintenance and servicing of your Camaro

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Old 10-01-2009, 10:16 PM   #1
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First Oil change concerns

Many of you have talked about how you changed your oil at 500, 1000, or 1500 and the various reasons for doing so, ie: getting rid of metal shavings, switching to conventional, oil being black, etc.

I haven't found any solid information regarding what oil is actually in there from the factory. Just because the engine/manual calls for Mobil 1 doesn't mean they actually put that in as a break-in oil. Maybe they use conventional from the factory for break-in purposes and then want you to use Mobil 1 afterwards, and you guys are changing it for no reason. Maybe there are other additives in the original oil for break-in purposes that if you do an early oil change you are getting rid of.

I'm leaning towards following the oil life monitor for the first change, metal shavings or not.
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Old 10-01-2009, 11:35 PM   #2
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Old 10-02-2009, 03:40 AM   #3
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I'm doing my first oil change roughly at 1750ish tomorrow. I figure that will be good enough.

And I did buy mobil one 5qt of sae-5w30 as recommended for $30 bucks including the filter. Actually spent $60 buying two of those packages.
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Old 10-02-2009, 06:56 AM   #4
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I changed mine yesterday with 500 miles on it . Mobil 1 5/30. Its going for a dyno tune on Tuesday. Just figured I'd change the oil before the dyno pulls.
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Old 10-02-2009, 08:06 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TanandGreen View Post
Many of you have talked about how you changed your oil at 500, 1000, or 1500 and the various reasons for doing so, ie: getting rid of metal shavings, switching to conventional, oil being black, etc.

I haven't found any solid information regarding what oil is actually in there from the factory. Just because the engine/manual calls for Mobil 1 doesn't mean they actually put that in as a break-in oil. Maybe they use conventional from the factory for break-in purposes and then want you to use Mobil 1 afterwards, and you guys are changing it for no reason. Maybe there are other additives in the original oil for break-in purposes that if you do an early oil change you are getting rid of.

I'm leaning towards following the oil life monitor for the first change, metal shavings or not.
You just spent $35k on the car...why skimp on an oil change? It's your money and your car, do what you want...I changed mine at 1000 miles...mobil-1 was on sale, $60 w/ filter. Small price to pay for piece of mind just in case there is any crap in there from the break-in (rather change it too early, than too late). I'll change it every spring from here on out.
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Old 10-02-2009, 08:41 AM   #6
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I had mine changed at just over 1,500 miles. The manual says the break in period is 1,500 miles. I figured that any of the engine wear will happen by that point. So I changed it. Dealer put 5W30 Mobil 1 and did it for free. I am going to watch the oil color, my driving habits, etc, and will decide at what point I do the second oil change. Really up to personal preference here I think.
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Old 10-02-2009, 08:57 AM   #7
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Changed mine at 1200 miles. Mobil 1 5W30, K&N Oil filter. Oil was not dirty, but was full of metal shavings. I agree with above posts, it's insurance protection that's worth the $. I'll change again at 5K, then let the DIC let me know when to change it.
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Old 10-02-2009, 10:33 AM   #8
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I just changed mine two days ago. I drained it through a coffee filter and WOW, the bottom of the filter was full of metal shavings. It has 1000 miles on it, anyway, I replaced the filter with Royal Purple 10-48, and added 8 qts Royal Purple 5w/30 high performance oil. Everything cost $78.00 not including the cost of beer/pizza.

Yesterday I changed the differential fluid. Did the same process as above (draining in a coffee filter) and I got the same results, bottom full of metal shavings. Removed both top and bottom plugs, cleaned off metal particals, put bottom plug back in and added new 75w/90 Royal Purple gear oil (1 qt). Rechecked plugs making sure they were tight and not leaking.......all good. Drove car and I must say it seemed as if there was more pick up too it, I'm it is all in my head. Next, changing manual trans fluid to Royal Purple.


I also added a seperate clutch reservoir ( 2006 GTO reservoir through GM) and seperated it from the brake reservoir. I don't like the that particular system anyway. 1 Hour later, DOT 4 fluid instead of DOT 3, I have assurance my clutch/brake fluids will NEVER mix. And yes, there is proof of it happening even though it is a sealed system. I will post pics as soon as I fix my camera.
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Old 10-02-2009, 10:39 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FFPM73 View Post
I just changed mine two days ago. I drained it through a coffee filter and WOW, the bottom of the filter was full of metal shavings. It has 1000 miles on it, anyway, I replaced the filter with Royal Purple 10-48, and added 8 qts Royal Purple 5w/30 high performance oil. Everything cost $78.00 not including the cost of beer/pizza.

Yesterday I changed the differential fluid. Did the same process as above (draining in a coffee filter) and I got the same results, bottom full of metal shavings. Removed both top and bottom plugs, cleaned off metal particals, put bottom plug back in and added new 75w/90 Royal Purple gear oil (1 qt). Rechecked plugs making sure they were tight and not leaking.......all good. Drove car and I must say it seemed as if there was more pick up too it, I'm it is all in my head. Next, changing manual trans fluid to Royal Purple.


I also added a seperate clutch reservoir ( 2006 GTO reservoir through GM) and seperated it from the brake reservoir. I don't like the that particular system anyway. 1 Hour later, DOT 4 fluid instead of DOT 3, I have assurance my clutch/brake fluids will NEVER mix. And yes, there is proof of it happening even though it is a sealed system. I will post pics as soon as I fix my camera.
Are the specs in the owner's manual for the torque on the rear differential as well as the amounts of gear oil needed? Also, did you add any friction modifiers?

Thanks!

EDIT: Ok, found specs on oil, amount, and friction modifiers to use. Don't see specs for torque settings in the manual for these bolts.

Rear Axle (V8 Engine)
Rear Differential Fluid 75W-90 Limited Slip to GM Specification 9986226.
GM Part No. U.S. 89021677 and Friction Modifier 1052358,
in Canada 89021678 and Friction Modifier 992694.

Rear Axle Fluid
V8 Engine* 0.9 L 1.0 qt

*Add 2.5 oz. (75 mL) of friction modifier to the specified quantity of axle lubricant.
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Last edited by Michael_Js; 10-02-2009 at 10:50 AM.
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Old 10-02-2009, 10:45 AM   #10
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We always wait 5,000-10,000 miles before using synthetic oils. The engine needs time to break in. Beware!!!
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Old 10-02-2009, 10:47 AM   #11
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The V8 comes with Mobil 1 synthetic oil; straight from the factory!
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Old 10-02-2009, 10:49 AM   #12
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Yes, the torgue specs are in the owners manual as well as the amounts of fluid. The Royal Purple has "Hypoid Friction Modifiers" in it. No additional additives are needed.
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Old 10-02-2009, 10:55 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FFPM73 View Post
Yes, the torgue specs are in the owners manual as well as the amounts of fluid. The Royal Purple has "Hypoid Friction Modifiers" in it. No additional additives are needed.
Thanks! Found the amounts, but only see the torque specs for the wheel nuts...
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Old 10-02-2009, 11:00 AM   #14
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The V8 comes with Mobil 1 synthetic oil; straight from the factory!
Probably, because that is the replacement oil, but nobody has REALLY been able to confirm what is in there from the factory.

I'm not questioning the value of oil changes or the cost, but many of you seem to assume that an early oil change can only be "good" for your motor, when I think we really don't have enough facts to make an informed decision.

Nobody has been able to confirm what octane fuel gets pumped into the Camaro at the end of the line, let alone whether they are dispensing MObil 1 into the motor before it gets there.
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Old 10-02-2009, 11:05 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TanandGreen View Post
Many of you have talked about how you changed your oil at 500, 1000, or 1500 and the various reasons for doing so, ie: getting rid of metal shavings, switching to conventional, oil being black, etc.

I haven't found any solid information regarding what oil is actually in there from the factory. Just because the engine/manual calls for Mobil 1 doesn't mean they actually put that in as a break-in oil. Maybe they use conventional from the factory for break-in purposes and then want you to use Mobil 1 afterwards, and you guys are changing it for no reason. Maybe there are other additives in the original oil for break-in purposes that if you do an early oil change you are getting rid of.

I'm leaning towards following the oil life monitor for the first change, metal shavings or not.
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Old 10-02-2009, 11:22 AM   #16
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Basically in a nutshell, I want the very best for the motor. This car I will have till I die just like my 69 SS. My 69 was restored by me and my father as a relationship builder, it worked, he was my best man in my wedding. These cars just like the first generation will be worth $$$$ down the road and I just love Camaros. Personally, I DO NOT LIKE Mobil 1. I have read A LOT of research and everything I have ever read, MOBIL 1 is at the bottom of the list. Sure it is good for a lawnmower or go-cart but not my LS-3. Royal Purple has proof of increased horsepower and torque by simply keeping internal engine temps low. Cooler engine = increased power, not rocket science. Furthermore, I will never have nor spend $$$$ for somebody else to change the oil. I have trust issues with dealers and private oil changing companies. Case n Point, buddy of mine bought a brand new Z06, wanted oil changed at 1000 miles.....My buddy signs and dates oil filter and marks drain plugs with grease marker.........$140.00 later at dealer, comes home and wouldn't you know it, filter was NEVER changed and the mark on drain plug not broke......SCAM!!!!!!! I truly believe, if you want something done right, DO IT YOURSELF!!!!! The dealer and anybody else DOESN'T care about your car, the condition it is in, nor do they care if something happens to it. Quite frankly, people aren't as anal as you when it comes to performance, oil, gas, exhaust, superchargers or any other modification you are planning. Therefore, when they see how you are with the fluids, not driving it daily or maybe how many times you clean it, they assume you are a PSYCHO.
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Old 10-02-2009, 11:28 AM   #17
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thank god we have another thread on this subject.
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Old 10-09-2009, 12:21 PM   #18
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[QUOTE=FFPM73;996393] I will never have nor spend $$$$ for somebody else to change the oil. I have trust issues with dealers and private oil changing companies. Case n Point, buddy of mine bought a brand new Z06, wanted oil changed at 1000 miles.....My buddy signs and dates oil filter and marks drain plugs with grease marker.........$140.00 later at dealer, comes home and wouldn't you know it, filter was NEVER changed and the mark on drain plug not broke......SCAM!!!!!!! I truly believe, if you want something done right, DO IT YOURSELF!!!!! The dealer and anybody else DOESN'T care about your car, the condition it is in, nor do they care if something happens to it.


The above happened to me many, years ago, I have never had anyone change my oil & filter since, & this is my 97 th.car. I have turned down Free Dealer oil changes many times.
I have Heard too many stories from friends,family etc. like:Stripping drain plug,not changing filt.,leaking oil from drain plug or filter not tight enough, etc.

NOBODY cares about your car like you do !!!

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Old 10-12-2009, 11:23 AM   #19
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Back when I was in College in New Mexico, I took my 1981 Camaro in for an oil change at the local dealer. My car came out with a "Bravo" oil filter on it. Man...I let those guys have it! I asked them why the hell would I take it to a GM dealer to have them install a MF'ing Bravo oil filter on my car?. They calmly explained to me they got them on special from the local Carquest.

I have never taken my car to a dealer to change my oil since. This took place back in 1990.
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Old 10-21-2009, 02:30 PM   #20
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Changed mine at 1200 miles. Mobil 1 5W30, K&N Oil filter. Oil was not dirty, but was full of metal shavings. I agree with above posts, it's insurance protection that's worth the $. I'll change again at 5K, then let the DIC let me know when to change it.
When you changed over to synthetic, did you flush the crank or simply change the oil and filter? The reason I ask this is that I had my son's car serviced and the shop where I brought it into recommended the flush.
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Old 10-21-2009, 02:51 PM   #21
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When you changed over to synthetic, did you flush the crank or simply change the oil and filter? The reason I ask this is that I had my son's car serviced and the shop where I brought it into recommended the flush.
All the Camaros are filled from Oshawa with Mobil1 5w synthetic...What kind of car, mileage?

If you run the car to temp and allow the crankcase to completely drain (20-30 minutes) you will have done an excellent job getting most of the oil and smaller foreign crap out. In my opinion, the flush is only recommended for a neglected engine that is really bad. And at that point, the damage is generally done...so why bother?

As well, if you use top tier synthetics, Pennzoil Platinum or Mobil1 and a top tier filter, Mobil1, K&N or Wix, you will have no need to have an engine flush.

IMO, those flushes are a gimmick to a point. They do remove some material, but nothing that can't be accomplished with proper preventative maintenance schedules. On the other hand, a trans flush can benefit if you properly maintain and service the trans and before any evident damage is done. So if you have an auto with 80k and it is shifting normally and you are due for a filter and fluid change, by all means get the flush. Just make sure you read the fine print on how detailed the flush is...some offer flush A for $50 that does not remove ALL of the fluid...wheras, for $80, they get all the fluid out and replace with new.
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Old 10-21-2009, 08:41 PM   #22
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All the Camaros are filled from Oshawa with Mobil1 5w synthetic...What kind of car, mileage?

If you run the car to temp and allow the crankcase to completely drain (20-30 minutes) you will have done an excellent job getting most of the oil and smaller foreign crap out. In my opinion, the flush is only recommended for a neglected engine that is really bad. And at that point, the damage is generally done...so why bother?

As well, if you use top tier synthetics, Pennzoil Platinum or Mobil1 and a top tier filter, Mobil1, K&N or Wix, you will have no need to have an engine flush.

IMO, those flushes are a gimmick to a point. They do remove some material, but nothing that can't be accomplished with proper preventative maintenance schedules. On the other hand, a trans flush can benefit if you properly maintain and service the trans and before any evident damage is done. So if you have an auto with 80k and it is shifting normally and you are due for a filter and fluid change, by all means get the flush. Just make sure you read the fine print on how detailed the flush is...some offer flush A for $50 that does not remove ALL of the fluid...wheras, for $80, they get all the fluid out and replace with new.
Thanks for the information on the Camaro coming from the factory with synthetic. I purchased my Camaro last month and I already have 2,000 miles on the car. Crazy, huh? I bought it to drive it and I am enjoying this car so much that I can't stay out of it! What's your opinion about changing the oil now or perhaps at 2,500 miles. The engine has had sufficient break in so I don't think that it would hurt at all given that eall the internals should be well seated and such. What do you think of using Royal Purple?

- Rich
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Old 10-21-2009, 09:15 PM   #23
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All the Camaros are filled from Oshawa with Mobil1 5w synthetic.
JUST the V8's...not the V6.
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Old 10-21-2009, 11:44 PM   #24
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JUST the V8's...not the V6.
In his sig, it stated he had a 2SS.

Due to the topic at hand, I stated all (referring to the OP specific model) came from Oshawa with Mobil1 5w.

He had a question...were you going to elaborate and help him or correct a "specificity" I made?
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Old 10-21-2009, 11:44 PM   #25
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All the Camaros are filled from Oshawa with Mobil1 5w synthetic...
I have read this before, and I still think it is a very presumptuous statement. Just because the manual calls for Mobil-1 for oil changes DOES NOT mean that is what was poured into it at the factory. Nobody from Oshawa has VERIFIED that they pour pure Mobil 1 into the SS motor when new. Although it might be unlikely, it is very possible that there is an additive of some sort to assist with break-in and that by doing an early oil change you are throwing out something that Oshawa put in there on purpose for your first 8-11k miles.

I'm sticking with the oil change minder which estimates my first oil change at 11k.
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