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Old 10-01-2009, 10:16 PM   #1
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First Oil change concerns

Many of you have talked about how you changed your oil at 500, 1000, or 1500 and the various reasons for doing so, ie: getting rid of metal shavings, switching to conventional, oil being black, etc.

I haven't found any solid information regarding what oil is actually in there from the factory. Just because the engine/manual calls for Mobil 1 doesn't mean they actually put that in as a break-in oil. Maybe they use conventional from the factory for break-in purposes and then want you to use Mobil 1 afterwards, and you guys are changing it for no reason. Maybe there are other additives in the original oil for break-in purposes that if you do an early oil change you are getting rid of.

I'm leaning towards following the oil life monitor for the first change, metal shavings or not.
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Old 10-01-2009, 11:35 PM   #2
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Old 10-02-2009, 03:40 AM   #3
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I'm doing my first oil change roughly at 1750ish tomorrow. I figure that will be good enough.

And I did buy mobil one 5qt of sae-5w30 as recommended for $30 bucks including the filter. Actually spent $60 buying two of those packages.
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Old 10-02-2009, 06:56 AM   #4
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I changed mine yesterday with 500 miles on it . Mobil 1 5/30. Its going for a dyno tune on Tuesday. Just figured I'd change the oil before the dyno pulls.
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Old 10-02-2009, 08:06 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TanandGreen View Post
Many of you have talked about how you changed your oil at 500, 1000, or 1500 and the various reasons for doing so, ie: getting rid of metal shavings, switching to conventional, oil being black, etc.

I haven't found any solid information regarding what oil is actually in there from the factory. Just because the engine/manual calls for Mobil 1 doesn't mean they actually put that in as a break-in oil. Maybe they use conventional from the factory for break-in purposes and then want you to use Mobil 1 afterwards, and you guys are changing it for no reason. Maybe there are other additives in the original oil for break-in purposes that if you do an early oil change you are getting rid of.

I'm leaning towards following the oil life monitor for the first change, metal shavings or not.
You just spent $35k on the car...why skimp on an oil change? It's your money and your car, do what you want...I changed mine at 1000 miles...mobil-1 was on sale, $60 w/ filter. Small price to pay for piece of mind just in case there is any crap in there from the break-in (rather change it too early, than too late). I'll change it every spring from here on out.
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Old 10-02-2009, 08:41 AM   #6
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I had mine changed at just over 1,500 miles. The manual says the break in period is 1,500 miles. I figured that any of the engine wear will happen by that point. So I changed it. Dealer put 5W30 Mobil 1 and did it for free. I am going to watch the oil color, my driving habits, etc, and will decide at what point I do the second oil change. Really up to personal preference here I think.
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Old 10-02-2009, 08:57 AM   #7
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Changed mine at 1200 miles. Mobil 1 5W30, K&N Oil filter. Oil was not dirty, but was full of metal shavings. I agree with above posts, it's insurance protection that's worth the $. I'll change again at 5K, then let the DIC let me know when to change it.
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Old 10-02-2009, 10:33 AM   #8
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I just changed mine two days ago. I drained it through a coffee filter and WOW, the bottom of the filter was full of metal shavings. It has 1000 miles on it, anyway, I replaced the filter with Royal Purple 10-48, and added 8 qts Royal Purple 5w/30 high performance oil. Everything cost $78.00 not including the cost of beer/pizza.

Yesterday I changed the differential fluid. Did the same process as above (draining in a coffee filter) and I got the same results, bottom full of metal shavings. Removed both top and bottom plugs, cleaned off metal particals, put bottom plug back in and added new 75w/90 Royal Purple gear oil (1 qt). Rechecked plugs making sure they were tight and not leaking.......all good. Drove car and I must say it seemed as if there was more pick up too it, I'm it is all in my head. Next, changing manual trans fluid to Royal Purple.


I also added a seperate clutch reservoir ( 2006 GTO reservoir through GM) and seperated it from the brake reservoir. I don't like the that particular system anyway. 1 Hour later, DOT 4 fluid instead of DOT 3, I have assurance my clutch/brake fluids will NEVER mix. And yes, there is proof of it happening even though it is a sealed system. I will post pics as soon as I fix my camera.
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Old 10-02-2009, 10:39 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FFPM73 View Post
I just changed mine two days ago. I drained it through a coffee filter and WOW, the bottom of the filter was full of metal shavings. It has 1000 miles on it, anyway, I replaced the filter with Royal Purple 10-48, and added 8 qts Royal Purple 5w/30 high performance oil. Everything cost $78.00 not including the cost of beer/pizza.

Yesterday I changed the differential fluid. Did the same process as above (draining in a coffee filter) and I got the same results, bottom full of metal shavings. Removed both top and bottom plugs, cleaned off metal particals, put bottom plug back in and added new 75w/90 Royal Purple gear oil (1 qt). Rechecked plugs making sure they were tight and not leaking.......all good. Drove car and I must say it seemed as if there was more pick up too it, I'm it is all in my head. Next, changing manual trans fluid to Royal Purple.


I also added a seperate clutch reservoir ( 2006 GTO reservoir through GM) and seperated it from the brake reservoir. I don't like the that particular system anyway. 1 Hour later, DOT 4 fluid instead of DOT 3, I have assurance my clutch/brake fluids will NEVER mix. And yes, there is proof of it happening even though it is a sealed system. I will post pics as soon as I fix my camera.
Are the specs in the owner's manual for the torque on the rear differential as well as the amounts of gear oil needed? Also, did you add any friction modifiers?

Thanks!

EDIT: Ok, found specs on oil, amount, and friction modifiers to use. Don't see specs for torque settings in the manual for these bolts.

Rear Axle (V8 Engine)
Rear Differential Fluid 75W-90 Limited Slip to GM Specification 9986226.
GM Part No. U.S. 89021677 and Friction Modifier 1052358,
in Canada 89021678 and Friction Modifier 992694.

Rear Axle Fluid
V8 Engine* 0.9 L 1.0 qt

*Add 2.5 oz. (75 mL) of friction modifier to the specified quantity of axle lubricant.
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Last edited by Michael_Js; 10-02-2009 at 10:50 AM.
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Old 10-02-2009, 10:45 AM   #10
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We always wait 5,000-10,000 miles before using synthetic oils. The engine needs time to break in. Beware!!!
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Old 10-02-2009, 10:47 AM   #11
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The V8 comes with Mobil 1 synthetic oil; straight from the factory!
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Old 10-02-2009, 10:49 AM   #12
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Yes, the torgue specs are in the owners manual as well as the amounts of fluid. The Royal Purple has "Hypoid Friction Modifiers" in it. No additional additives are needed.
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Old 10-02-2009, 10:55 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FFPM73 View Post
Yes, the torgue specs are in the owners manual as well as the amounts of fluid. The Royal Purple has "Hypoid Friction Modifiers" in it. No additional additives are needed.
Thanks! Found the amounts, but only see the torque specs for the wheel nuts...
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Old 10-02-2009, 11:00 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Michael_Js View Post
The V8 comes with Mobil 1 synthetic oil; straight from the factory!
Probably, because that is the replacement oil, but nobody has REALLY been able to confirm what is in there from the factory.

I'm not questioning the value of oil changes or the cost, but many of you seem to assume that an early oil change can only be "good" for your motor, when I think we really don't have enough facts to make an informed decision.

Nobody has been able to confirm what octane fuel gets pumped into the Camaro at the end of the line, let alone whether they are dispensing MObil 1 into the motor before it gets there.
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