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Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing Discussions on mechanical maintenance and servicing of your Camaro

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Old 03-01-2010, 02:33 PM   #1
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Too backwoods-y oil change plan

Ok, so I picked up a 6qt case of Mobil 1 at Costco over the weekend for $32, and a K&N filter at O'Reilly's for another $14. I've got the V6 so changing the filter is easy, but I still need a way to get under the car to drain the oil. I don't have ramps, and have had bad luck trying to get the front of a RWD up on ramps in the past (they slide), so I'm thinking of just running the front of the car up on the sidewalk next to my house. It's got those rounded curbs, so I could just drive up it. Also, with the crown in the road I think the car will still be pretty close to level, at least closer than if it was on jacks or ramps in the front only.

So my 2 questions are, does that sound like it'll work? Sounds ridiculous I know, but it's a little dead-end road to nowhere to it gets 0 traffic. And is it important to have the car level for good drainage, or is it ok to have the front end in the air?
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Old 03-01-2010, 02:38 PM   #2
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Hit the walmart for some ramps. They have a set for 40.00-ish and they have rubber pads on them to stop slippage (on everything but my composite garage floor that is). I don't think you will have enough room in your scenario....and it certainly won't be any fun if you do manage to get under there and not have ample room to work.
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Old 03-01-2010, 02:48 PM   #3
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Yeah I am gonna say no bueno on this one. You are gonna run the rish of messing up your front valance. I say just suck it up and get some ramps. I built the ghetto DIY wood ones and while they work I didnt like them. I have some race ramps on order now. If you do the ghetto ones make them out of 2x12 or 2x14.

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Old 03-01-2010, 03:07 PM   #4
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Yeah I am gonna say no bueno on this one. You are gonna run the rish of messing up your front valance. I say just suck it up and get some ramps. I built the ghetto DIY wood ones and while they work I didnt like them. I have some race ramps on order now. If you do the ghetto ones make them out of 2x12 or 2x14.

Cheers
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I agree,

These work great, they did this on Mustangworld before. You can basically take 2x10 or 2x12 lumber and cut to descending length and nail them lined up on one end longest on bottom, shortest on top. Cost to make: Around $30 in wood

Materials: 2" x 10" x 10 foot (two), 2" x 10" x 8 foot (two) and a 2" x 3" x 10" piece.

I think some folks have posted a couple of threads on here about it too.

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Old 03-01-2010, 03:17 PM   #5
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Get the low profile ramps, they work great and you won't break the bank. As Hypurone says, they have rubber pads on the bottom and usually won't slip. Mine works just fine.
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Old 03-01-2010, 03:53 PM   #6
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Thanks for the input. I'll check WalMart for some ramps. I know I can get the car on the curb w/o damaging the valance, because it's the same kind of rounded curb that I have to drive up to get into my driveway. But ramps are nice -- especially if it's raining out and the street is wet.
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Old 03-01-2010, 07:17 PM   #7
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I don't have a picture of the front up yet, just the back. If your garage floor is too slick, put a small piece of rubber backed carpet (door mat, dish drainer or anything rubber) under the middle of the ramp. I love my ramps....

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Old 03-01-2010, 08:05 PM   #8
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Quote:
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I agree,

These work great, they did this on Mustangworld before. You can basically take 2x10 or 2x12 lumber and cut to descending length and nail them lined up on one end longest on bottom, shortest on top.
The nice thing about steel ramps is the pocket that won't let the car roll forward or back off the ramp top.

Which is nice as you can drive up the front, then jack up the back to get lots of room or even just to help get the front end up high, as it can be scary jacking up the front real high.
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Old 03-01-2010, 11:21 PM   #9
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I don't have a picture of the front up yet, just the back. If your garage floor is too slick, put a small piece of rubber backed carpet (door mat, dish drainer or anything rubber) under the middle of the ramp. I love my ramps....

Hey, I like those black painted cans!
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Old 03-01-2010, 11:22 PM   #10
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Oh, and one other thing -- does it matter if the front is higher than the rear during the change?
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Old 03-02-2010, 01:37 AM   #11
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Ok, so I picked up a 6qt case of Mobil 1 at Costco over the weekend for $32, and a K&N filter at O'Reilly's for another $14. I've got the V6 so changing the filter is easy, but I still need a way to get under the car to drain the oil. I don't have ramps, and have had bad luck trying to get the front of a RWD up on ramps in the past (they slide), so I'm thinking of just running the front of the car up on the sidewalk next to my house. It's got those rounded curbs, so I could just drive up it. Also, with the crown in the road I think the car will still be pretty close to level, at least closer than if it was on jacks or ramps in the front only.

So my 2 questions are, does that sound like it'll work? Sounds ridiculous I know, but it's a little dead-end road to nowhere to it gets 0 traffic. And is it important to have the car level for good drainage, or is it ok to have the front end in the air?
i got a better idea!..at least for me!..my selling dealer will change oil and filter for 17.99..screw it!..let 'em do it for that money!..
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Old 03-02-2010, 02:15 AM   #12
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Oh, and one other thing -- does it matter if the front is higher than the rear during the change?
depends on where the drain plug is.
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Old 03-04-2010, 12:01 PM   #13
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Just use a floor jack. Lift the car, remove the plug, lower car and let it drain. Lift car, replace plug, replace filter, lower car & fill.

[Don't forget to throw a jack stand under the car before crawling under]
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Old 03-10-2010, 09:24 AM   #14
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Just use a floor jack. Lift the car, remove the plug, lower car and let it drain. Lift car, replace plug, replace filter, lower car & fill.

[Don't forget to throw a jack stand under the car before crawling under]

Please don't crawl under there with just a floor jack holding it up !
NEVER rely on a floor jack alone. If you use a jack stand, use 2 ea. One on each corner.
The only issue you'd have with using the curb is the front valance. If that clears good, no problem, same as using ramps.
... BUT, you're buying K & N filters for $14 when the GM filter is about $6. If you like spending money on things like a K & N, buy the right tools for the job as well. Get a set of ramps. You'll find you use them more than you realize. If you just want to check underneath for exhaust, suspension, etc. system inspection, the ramps are VERY useful.
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Old 03-10-2010, 09:39 AM   #15
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where do they sell the low profile ramps? I have the scary metal ones.
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Old 03-10-2010, 03:38 PM   #16
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I hit up WalMart like hypurone suggested and got a pair of plastic ramps for about $44. They are rated for 10,000 pounds, and have a little no-slip rubber pad on the bottom of the leading edge which keeps them from slipping out when driving up or backing down.

While I was there I picked up a 15 or 16 qt oil collection pan for around $8.

This morning after driving home from the dentist I started the oil change (pulled filter and oil plug and let it drain). Just finished it up over lunch.

I was hoping the oil plug would be at the back of the oil pan so that even with the front of the car elevated it would be the lowest point. But it's not. It's toward the back of the pan on the passenger side. But the pan dips down a bit toward the plug (hard to explain -- shoulda snapped a pic). So it was close to the lowest point of the pan, but not quite.

So to get every last bit of oil drained you'd probably have to use a floor jack and jack stands like clg_98ta described.
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Old 03-10-2010, 05:50 PM   #17
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Quote:
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I hit up WalMart like hypurone suggested and got a pair of plastic ramps for about $44. They are rated for 10,000 pounds, and have a little no-slip rubber pad on the bottom of the leading edge which keeps them from slipping out when driving up or backing down.
Pretty nice huh!
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