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Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing Discussions on mechanical maintenance and servicing of your Camaro

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Old 10-05-2009, 11:34 AM   #1
DFollis
 
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What Oil.... Help!

Ok check it out i have read/heard so many different things about what oil to use for after the break in period... To my Understanding it comes from the factory with Mobil1 Synthetic 5-30????

Ok so then i hear that the synthetic is too slippery to get a good seat on the rings.... Then why did it come from the factory this way? Car has about 800 miles on it and im kinda getting nervous as i broke the car in pretty hard trying to seat the rings. Should i change the oil now, and if so what oil do i go with a good convetnional or stay with a Synthetic.

Any input is much appreciated!!!

Black 2SS M6 "Thing is Awesome"


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Old 10-05-2009, 11:49 AM   #2
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You worry too much.... put Mobil 1 back in it! Jezzzz. Is this your first car?
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Old 10-05-2009, 12:42 PM   #3
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You're absolutely right, there is tons of speculation on what oil is best. The best advice is to read the owner's manual and stick with what it says. Just take note that the owners manual specifically states to use an oil certified to the "GM4718M" standard (different standard for the V-6). In fact, the manual even says that if you sustain engine damage and did not use a GM4718M certified oil, that it "could" void the engine warranty. In my search for engine oil, I noticed that the Royal Purple stuff did not say anything about this GM4718M on the bottle, so I'm not using it. However, the AMSOIL High-Performance stuff did list the GM4718M, but at $9.00 a quart it's too expensive for me! As the previous poster says, just stick with the regular Mobil 1 Synthetic (not the extended performance stuff). That's your safest bet.
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Old 10-05-2009, 12:45 PM   #4
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I changed my oil at 890 miles after hard driving and alot of metal was found in the filter and drained oil. This is normal on hard break in.

Some people take out the new oil and replace it with dyno or Royal Purple for break in. And some continue dyno up until they are happy.

I have changed my oil at 890 and 2900 and have 6005 on odo.

You will be just fine changing now and again when you feel comfortable as in using the OLI. But if important, check out Blackstone labs and send them a sample of the oil you drain and be directed by their recommendations.

There is alot of loose metal and sealants (and hard break in) during the first oil change. Thats why I changed it at 890 miles and again at 2900.

I personally use Pennzoil Platinum and Mobil1 filters. I have had great luck with the oil analysis in all my LSX engines (3) OVER 200K
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Old 10-05-2009, 12:57 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Banshee View Post
I changed my oil at 890 miles after hard driving and alot of metal was found in the filter and drained oil. This is normal on hard break in.

Some people take out the new oil and replace it with dyno or Royal Purple for break in. And some continue dyno up until they are happy.

I have changed my oil at 890 and 2900 and have 6005 on odo.

You will be just fine changing now and again when you feel comfortable as in using the OLI. But if important, check out Blackstone labs and send them a sample of the oil you drain and be directed by their recommendations.

There is alot of loose metal and sealants (and hard break in) during the first oil change. Thats why I changed it at 890 miles and again at 2900.

I personally use Pennzoil Platinum and Mobil1 filters. I have had great luck with the oil analysis in all my LSX engines (3) OVER 200K
I use the same.
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Old 10-05-2009, 03:18 PM   #6
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my brother just blew up his '07 Z06 20k miles on it.....and he kept running 5-30.
ima go with 10-30
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Old 10-05-2009, 04:57 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hector LS3 View Post
my brother just blew up his '07 Z06 20k miles on it.....and he kept running 5-30.
ima go with 10-30
And the reason for the engine failure was the oil viscosity of 5w30?

I highly doubt that.

With the tight tolerances of the LS engines, 10w is thicker and would do more damage to the engine (in theory) if in fact the oil viscosity was the issue.

I am not going to belabor anyone with a full blown response about the differences between the two weights. If your brother lived in Las Vegas and in summer (100-120 degrees), 10w may be a more suitable choice. Any other place, 5w is the weight of choice unless you have a high mileage engine over 100k.

5w protects the engine better on cold start up because of it's flow and viscosity. If in a sub zero climate, 0w30 or 0w20. In extreme hot climates, 10w30.
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Last edited by Banshee; 10-05-2009 at 05:19 PM.
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Old 10-05-2009, 07:18 PM   #8
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I am running Amsoil. I hear it is great! My dad swears by it in all his cars.....
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Old 10-05-2009, 10:23 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hector LS3 View Post
my brother just blew up his '07 Z06 20k miles on it.....and he kept running 5-30.
ima go with 10-30
I'm running 0-30... guess I should dive for cover next time I crank her up.
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Old 10-05-2009, 10:37 PM   #10
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#6 piston shredded to pieces....good thing is under warranty! i think 5w30 turns into water when u drive hard
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