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Old 05-18-2017, 10:43 AM   #1
96SS10SS
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Drives: Black 2010 2SS/RS LS3
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Doylestown, PA
Posts: 103
Need clutch help in Doylestown

Anybody in the Doylestown area knowledgeable about transmissions and willing to assist a fellow C5er? I had a 416 motor built for my 2010 SS and I noticed that a few hundred miles after the work, the transmission became difficult to shift one day while driving home. I was not flogging on it at the time. It's not making any weird noises or leaking visibly. It seems like the clutch is not disengaging fully and it's worse when the trans temp gauge reads about 180 (car is fully warmed up). It seems like a hydraulic issue so I tried the Ranger Method of siphoning out the shared brake/clutch fluid reservoir and it seemed slightly better but it's still not the way it was; MGW shifter was always somewhat clunky/notchy but it would go into first gear without resistance when fully stopped. If I hold down the clutch pedal a few seconds before trying to shift, it will eventually go into gear. It's most pronounced when stopped and trying to get into first gear. The dealer says get the pedal TSB done (out of warranty/out of pocket) then try the clutch master cylinder if that doesn't work. I was hoping to avoid throwing money at a problem that the dealer "could not duplicate."
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2010 2SS/RS LS3 built October 30, 2009
416ci/6.8L stroked LS3 with 495 RWHP@6k/470 TQ@4.4k; Lunati 235/243 .626"/.634" 114LSA +3
SLP retro badges, MGW shifter with Race Knob, Hotchkis TVS Stage 1 (coils and sways), Pedders Street Z and steering bushing, 3.91 Gear swap, red powdercoated calipers (Mike the powdercoater), Z28 Air Induction (Cold Air Intake) Kit, ZL1 side skirts and rock guards, Lunati stroker kit, Kooks 1 7/8" coated longtubes and cats, heater hose relocation, fuel rail flip, SLP front splitter.
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