DIY - ABL using EL wire, and 3/16" tube

[TAG UR IT]

I watched a great youtube video on soldering. Just searched, "How to Solder" and came up with a very informative 4 minute video. Easy stuff. Didn't mention copper tape in mine, though.

And Rick, yeah...20ft. I have plans...and will be taking off the door panels and removing the stock inserts. When I do that, I'm going to replace with the El Wire in the doors. That's probably going to be the rigid that I use. However, if not, the flex tube will be used there. Also, I have no idea how bright it's going to be, but I want to see what I can come up with for the trunk and flew tube...to run along the inside top of the trunk. I was thinking of running it all around the inner top to spread light evenly throughout. Should work out nicely.

I've got a few other ideas too...but time is my only enemy here. I wish I had my parts painted already....ugh...stuff is going to be coming in any day now and I want to get it DONE!

[King Mouse]

Tag,

There is a buffing compound specifically made for plastics. There are also special buffs made for plastics as well. They are great for restoring a very high luster to plastics as long as the sanding is done first. Eastwood sells this compound and the buffs.

www.eastwood.com

Here is the buffing compound:

http://www.eastwood.com/ew-buff-comp...3-oz-tube.html

[TAG UR IT]

Originally Posted by King Mouse

Tag,

There is a buffing compound specifically made for plastics. There are also special buffs made for plastics as well. They are great for restoring a very high luster to plastics as long as the sanding is done first. Eastwood sells this compound and the buffs.

www.eastwood.com

Here is the buffing compound:

http://www.eastwood.com/ew-buff-comp...3-oz-tube.html

See? Now THAT is why I love the site! ...helping others out. I was wondering if I was really going to get that plastic to look completely clear again and I knew I could (since the headlight type cleaning stuff), but I just didn't know how. THANK YOU. I'll go pick some up today.

Also, does anyone know (or has anyone tried) actually removing the paint WITHOUT sanding? I've tried paint thinner and the paint won't come off. The excess paint I painted on (to test color matching) came right off, but the original paint won't come off. If I can't find a good paint remover, I'm just going to sand, sand, sand and then use the eastwood plastic compound. Rick, I know you said you did. But, did it work? Did you use a water based remover? Oil based? What type and did it work?

[FwyFlyer]

Originally Posted by camarorick

Try this video.... This one doesn't use the copper tape.... Same results

Thanks for the link to the alternative technique for soldering the EL wire. One more question (for now ) Where did you find the power lead harness that fits the GM ABL connection?
Thanks, Rick

[TAG UR IT]

Originally Posted by FwyFlyer

Thanks for the link to the alternative technique for soldering the EL wire. One more question (for now ) Where did you find the power lead harness that fits the GM ABL connection?
Thanks, Rick

On the other hand, I have the GM ABL blue light connection that I could splice. I'd rather keep that whole and just sell the parts to someone who wants them. If I could find the connector, it would be a lot more inexpensive and easier to cut.

Also, I said screw the paint thinner, remover crap. I went ahead and broke out the sander. Got the paint off and went with 400 grit, 800 grit, 1000 grit, and finally 1,500 grit. After that, I was putting stuff away and what did I come across???

Meguires Plasti-X.

It's basically used for refinishing plastic headlight covers. No kidding, I m thinking to myself. I break out the orbital buffer, toss on a polishing cloth, add the compound, and BAM! Clear as day. Sure, there's a few imperfections, but I don't think that's going to show up after paint.

So, it worked out perfectly.

Now, to go to the post office to ship off all the parts to get painted! I can't wait!

[skuttduck]

Originally Posted by FwyFlyer

Thanks for the link to the alternative technique for soldering the EL wire. One more question (for now ) Where did you find the power lead harness that fits the GM ABL connection?
Thanks, Rick

I've been Pm'd several times, but during the initial ABL thread it was discovered that the Molex WMLX-208 connector will fit the GM ABL connection.

In fact I used it to wire up 8 LED's on the passenger side.

Here's a link to where you can purchase the WMLX-208 connectors.
http://www.electronicplus.com/conten...=PC&subcat=PHE

I was able to find a specialty electronics shop locally that carries them. Anyone from Lansing, MI or nearby can get them at Fulton Electronics on South Pennsylvania Ave.

[FwyFlyer]

Originally Posted by TAG UR IT

On the other hand, I have the GM ABL blue light connection that I could splice. I'd rather keep that whole and just sell the parts to someone who wants them. If I could find the connector, it would be a lot more inexpensive and easier to cut.

Now, to go to the post office to ship off all the parts to get painted! I can't wait!

Well, I found the conector at Napa auto parts. It's just the female end with an 8" lead to plug into ABL connector. It costs $17 , don't know why, it's used everywhere on GM vehicles. It IS cheaper to get the light harness from the Chevy dealer at $15 and cut it.
Napa was unable to find the male end to it in their parts listings, but don't really need one. Someone else mentioned they got one from the seatbelt sensor at a boneyard, and someone else used the Molex 208 connector to make their own and I've heard that the female connector from ELwire fits too but it's only 22gw. The Napa's version of the AC Delco part PT146 is EC156.
I'm going to wait till my parts get here to see what else I need.

[FwyFlyer]

Originally Posted by skuttduck

I've been Pm'd several times, but during the initial ABL thread it was discovered that the Molex WMLX-208 connector will fit the GM ABL connection.

In fact I used it to wire up 8 LED's on the passenger side.

Here's a link to where you can purchase the WMLX-208 connectors.
http://www.electronicplus.com/conten...=PC&subcat=PHE

I was able to find a specialty electronics shop locally that carries them. Anyone from Lansing, MI or nearby can get them at Fulton Electronics on South Pennsylvania Ave.

Thanks for the link.
Any idea what the male connector for the Molex 208 would be? It would be nice to have them also for clean inline connections.

[skuttduck]

Originally Posted by FwyFlyer

Thanks for the link.
Any idea what the male connector for the Molex 208 would be? It would be nice to have them also for clean inline connections.

If it were me, I would use the information from the link and see if you can find something. (2 contacts .156" spacing).

If I were to guess, the WMLX-239 connector would work, but it is a right angle mount.

[Class1E]

Mod #1 when I get my car. Very nice job!

[Russell James]

Any way to dim the radio as a DIY project? My ambient lighting isn't modified. I've just left it pretty much turned down so you can't see it because if I turn it up at night to be able to see it, the radio is then so bright it is annoying.

Anyone else bugged by how bright the radio and center section in the IP is between the speedo and tac? I'd love to dim just those two things.

[TAG UR IT]

Ok...so, we now have a couple types of connectors which would work with the already installed ABL connector??

You guys are getting me confused. Which connector would be best for use to plug into the existing ABL plug on the side and behind the gauges?

Do we have a specific guaranteed plug?

[JCO2185]

i cant wait to do this mod to my car

[FwyFlyer]

Originally Posted by TAG UR IT

Ok...so, we now have a couple types of connectors which would work with the already installed ABL connector??

You guys are getting me confused. Which connector would be best for use to plug into the existing ABL plug on the side and behind the gauges?

Do we have a specific guaranteed plug?

Napa's version of the AC Delco part PT146 is EC156. It has 8" leads ready to splice to whatever you need power to. (12w inverter) It is the same plug that comes on the LED harness from GM. It cost me $17.