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Old 07-31-2013, 12:36 PM   #651
funbun
 
Drives: 2010 RS
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My RS is now exactly four years old. The pop is much worse in the front end, on the right. The good news is, other than what I suspect just may be a blown strut, the stability seems ok. At least the wheel hasn't fallen off. For those familiar with shocks, my car has no " rebound dampening " on this wheel. When it unloads, it hits so hard, you'll swear something is going to break off it next time. I just keep on driving the durn thing, hoping it does break off. Tehe.
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Old 08-21-2013, 02:03 AM   #652
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Is their a TSB on the 2010's? I noticed it on mine tonight. Big time clunking noise from the passenger front. I have 11K miles on mine.
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Old 08-21-2013, 03:05 PM   #653
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A number of threads on this issue so will post on this thread first. My 2011 2LT currently has 8700 K (5402 miles). Almost since new (Aug. 10 was my 3rd yr), when turning sharp in or out of parking spaces could hear I reported "creaking/clunk noise from front end". July 25 took it to dealer & they ordered two front strut mounts to fix "strut mounts binding close to full turns causing popping/creaking type of noise (dealer words)". Part ordered #22802090 (mount 073950). Parts arrived in a few days, was not in a hurry & dropped off Aug. 19. When installing new strut mounts smart service person realized these new mounts were not going to completely solve the issue. They then ordered a 'mount kit' #22843712 (mount kit 07950). Just picked up the Camaro today, no noise at all. They also did a 4-wheel alignment & reset front/rear toe, chamber both sides.
FYI: My noise sounds similar to others on this thread & heard since new & my 2011 2LT built early Aug. 2010 delivered to me Aug. 10, 2010 (note low present mileage). Also note I never heard a pop/clunk going over speed bumps, just when parking at low speed turning in/out of parking spaces. I asked & told there is not a TSB on 2011 models regarding this issue. Hope this info helps others.
Thanks to Myers Chevrolet/Cadillac in Ottawa Ontario for great customer service.
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Old 08-21-2013, 09:13 PM   #654
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very good info....im working with chevy customer service since i bought the car with 10K miles a month ago and the B2B warranty is gone since its a '10. Having issues with the rear brakes squealing now this.

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Originally Posted by abaucom21 View Post
A number of threads on this issue so will post on this thread first. My 2011 2LT currently has 8700 K (5402 miles). Almost since new (Aug. 10 was my 3rd yr), when turning sharp in or out of parking spaces could hear I reported "creaking/clunk noise from front end". July 25 took it to dealer & they ordered two front strut mounts to fix "strut mounts binding close to full turns causing popping/creaking type of noise (dealer words)". Part ordered #22802090 (mount 073950). Parts arrived in a few days, was not in a hurry & dropped off Aug. 19. When installing new strut mounts smart service person realized these new mounts were not going to completely solve the issue. They then ordered a 'mount kit' #22843712 (mount kit 07950). Just picked up the Camaro today, no noise at all. They also did a 4-wheel alignment & reset front/rear toe, chamber both sides.
FYI: My noise sounds similar to others on this thread & heard since new & my 2011 2LT built early Aug. 2010 delivered to me Aug. 10, 2010 (note low present mileage). Also note I never heard a pop/clunk going over speed bumps, just when parking at low speed turning in/out of parking spaces. I asked & told there is not a TSB on 2011 models regarding this issue. Hope this info helps others.
Thanks to Myers Chevrolet/Cadillac in Ottawa Ontario for great customer service.
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Old 12-07-2013, 11:37 PM   #655
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Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
Your dealer should have this information now.

Document ID: 3405388
#PIC5819A
2013 Camaro Built After October 1, 2012

Condition / Concern


On vehicles built after October 1, 2012 a repetitive clicking or popping noise may be heard in the front of the vehicle at low speeds.

Recommendation / Instructions

Replace the front strut or struts. Parts have been revised and all old stock was purged.

IMPORTANT: Do NOT replace the upper mount - it is NOT the cause of the condition.
I have a 2013 1LE built in may 2013 and Im getting the same noise the difference with mine is that it only happens when the car is cold such as the first start of the day after a cold night and it happens to me when I turn the wheel about 10 degrees. Might this be the same issue? Any other thoughts/questions comments.
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Old 12-13-2013, 06:14 PM   #656
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2012 2LT/RS - Built March 8th, 2012

Experiencing the same knocking / clicking sound from the passenger well. It is worse when it is cold.

Also noticed it only does it when that single tire has weight lifted off of it - if both front tires take a bump or dip in the road no noise. Passenger tire only noise.

Taking it in Wednesday to get it looked at. Also having them fix my blower motor - that went at less than 3000 miles...

I saw two different suggestions in here. One from pedders and one from someone who had theirs fixed at the dealer by tightening the control arm back up to the subframe.

Is there still no - 'for sure' - this is the cause / fix yet?
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Old 12-13-2013, 06:47 PM   #657
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I had thumping/popping noise in the struts more so in the passenger side versus the driver side.Fought with the Dealer and GM until I took those pictures in and question them the new neoprene insulator versus the one that came with the car.
GM even offered me a oil and filter change to try and shut me up,but like I told them keep their oil and filter that won't correct the problem.Anyway after confronting them with this information they finally bit the bullet and change the insulator.If you read earlier threads by me , you will see threads when I was experiencing this issue.
Problem solved ,no more thumping or popping.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2SSRS@Gen5diy View Post
Hay guys this is some info for you from a friend.

I think there is a potential concern for noise at the upper strut bushing/grommet area. I think GM might call it a strut insulator. I have seen the grommet or insulator separating or starting to peel out. It is pretty easy to spot. Just put the vehicle in the air and with a flashlight, and see if you can see the inner piece separating from the outer grommet. Now I do not know if this is related to a bulletin, PIC5177 dated 6/4/09 that talks about snap or popping noises when turning. This noise can be felt at the top mount when turning either direction. GM says the front mount can become contaminated with road debris and want both mounts replaced. In the picture the part is #4.



So can we have you guys take a peek at this are and report? Maybe this is some of the noises we are seeing.
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Old 01-07-2014, 08:59 PM   #658
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I had a similar problem, it was more of a clicking noise on the front end, I could hear it when I went over bumps and when I turned the wheel at a stop in either direction. I took it to the dealer and they replaced the stabilizer link and left bearing, I had to pay for the link but the bearing was covered under warranty, my car has 18k miles, I purchased it used with 15k miles. The clicking noise went away but I'm still experiencing a lot of bump steer :/ they say its normal but it can't be! It's a work out driving my car on uneven roads!
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Old 01-07-2014, 09:59 PM   #659
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i'll talk to my dealer about this. I'm out of my warranty, but they looked at it and said they tightened whatever they could down. I havent really checked since then, but if its still there ill ask about the insulator.

Quote:
Originally Posted by STINGER BEE View Post
I had thumping/popping noise in the struts more so in the passenger side versus the driver side.Fought with the Dealer and GM until I took those pictures in and question them the new neoprene insulator versus the one that came with the car.
GM even offered me a oil and filter change to try and shut me up,but like I told them keep their oil and filter that won't correct the problem.Anyway after confronting them with this information they finally bit the bullet and change the insulator.If you read earlier threads by me , you will see threads when I was experiencing this issue.
Problem solved ,no more thumping or popping.
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Old 01-10-2014, 11:11 AM   #660
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Sounds like a mechanic willing to work with you. Print out these instructions and take them with you to the Agency. In the USA you get better results if you show up with a couple dozen donuts, a gallon of coffee and the instructions


Camaro Front End Noise Correction

Inspection -- Determine if the upper spring insulator is black rubber or beige urethane.

Inspection -- If it is black rubber and partially displaced, replace it with the updated steel and urethane insulator.

Inspection -- Is there any damage to any of the front end components.

Inspection -- If available test drive with chassis ears in place to identify the source. If chassis ears are not available complete the 9 Steps listed here.

1. With the weight of the car on the wheels, remove the strut retaining nut and plate.
2. Burp the exposed strut assembly nut tight with the biggest baddest air gun in the shop. TQ is the key. We need a sudden acceleration of the nut to make it tight.
3. Reinstall the strut retaining plate and strut retaining nut. Tighten with the same over kill air gun for the same reasons.
4. Hit the strut clevis bolts with the same gun.
5. Hit the endlink nuts with the same monster gun. Don't do it by hand. Crank them down.
6. Get a wrench and all three ball joint nuts. Make them mechanic tight.
7. Crank down the radius arm nut and bolt to the same standard. Mechanic tight.
8. Get a socket on the sway bar strap nuts and make them mechanic tight.
9. Hit all four steering rack bolts and make them mechanic tight.

The 5th Gen Camaro is a ZETA II front end. We have seen issues with the G8 in the USA and the Commodore in AU. Chevrolet addressed those issues with large more robust ball joints and studs. Pontiac has addressed them with a TSB to replace the LCA and radius arms. There is NO issue with those components on the Camaro. Replacing the arms on G8s does not eliminate the noise because there were additional sources. Those sources are what appear to be tight to spec nuts on ball joints, endlinks, steering rack mounts, clevis bolts and strut mounting hardware. (The Camaro strut mount is different from the G8, but similar in that it has two nuts one below and one above the strut mount). Tightening the bolts is the key to resolving front end noises. What makes it tough for the DYI is lack of access to a high volume high pressure air supply to power a rattle gun.
So it is okay to use an air gun on the struts? How important is the 65lb-ft of torque? I'm having a hard time getting this to spec with a torque wrench because of the torx bit need to hold the center. I'm guessing it doesn't matter as long as it's really tight? Could I just compress the spring and tighten it down all the way and then release it?
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Old 05-21-2014, 09:27 AM   #661
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Add me to list. Bought car new in Sept of 09, 52k miles. Took it out yesterday for some spirited turns and "clunk" when turning hard.
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Old 05-21-2014, 10:38 AM   #662
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rcfiddy1 View Post
Add me to list. Bought car new in Sept of 09, 52k miles. Took it out yesterday for some spirited turns and "clunk" when turning hard.
What aftermarket suspension parts are on your car?
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Old 05-21-2014, 10:52 AM   #663
Mark T
 
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Easily reproduced in reverse over dropped bumps turning right backing up,.. no more than 4mph,.. easily around 3mph.

Less tha 1400 miles total.

Bone stock 1LE here.
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Old 05-21-2014, 11:10 AM   #664
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark T View Post
Easily reproduced in reverse over dropped bumps turning right backing up,.. no more than 4mph,.. easily around 3mph.

Less tha 1400 miles total.

Bone stock 1LE here.
Mark,

The thing about noise threads is they get confused. A noise from a bone stock vehicle is one thing and a noise from a modified suspension is another.

Print this post and take it with you to your Chevy Dealer.

Camaro Front End Noise Correction

Inspection -- Determine if the upper spring insulator is black rubber or beige urethane.

Inspection -- If it is black rubber and partially displaced, replace it with the updated steel and urethane insulator.

Inspection -- Is there any damage to any of the front end components.

Inspection -- If available test drive with chassis ears in place to identify the source. If chassis ears are not available complete the 9 Steps listed here.

1. With the weight of the car on the wheels, remove the strut retaining nut and plate.
2. Burp the exposed strut assembly nut tight with the biggest baddest air gun in the shop. TQ is the key. We need a sudden acceleration of the nut to make it tight.
3. Reinstall the strut retaining plate and strut retaining nut. Tighten with the same over kill air gun for the same reasons.
4. Hit the strut clevis bolts with the same gun.
5. Hit the endlink nuts with the same monster gun. Don't do it by hand. Crank them down.
6. Get a wrench and all three ball joint nuts. Make them mechanic tight.
7. Crank down the radius arm nut and bolt to the same standard. Mechanic tight.
8. Get a socket on the sway bar strap nuts and make them mechanic tight.
9. Hit all four steering rack bolts and make them mechanic tight.

The 5th Gen Camaro is a ZETA II front end. We have seen issues with the G8 in the USA and the Commodore in AU. Chevrolet addressed those issues with large more robust ball joints and studs. Pontiac has addressed them with a TSB to replace the LCA and radius arms. There is NO issue with those components on the Camaro. Replacing the arms on G8s does not eliminate the noise because there were additional sources. Those sources are what appear to be tight to spec nuts on ball joints, endlinks, steering rack mounts, clevis bolts and strut mounting hardware. (The Camaro strut mount is different from the G8, but similar in that it has two nuts one below and one above the strut mount). Tightening the bolts is the key to resolving front end noises. What makes it tough for the DYI is lack of access to a high volume high pressure air supply to power a rattle gun.
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Old 05-22-2014, 02:13 AM   #665
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
What aftermarket suspension parts are on your car?
Nothing in front end. Only rear toe arms and a bmr sub frame connector and tunnel brace. I noticed the clunk while going ove a speed bump a few weeks ago but now I can just turn into a corner a bit hard, say around 20-30 mph and I'll get it every time. I only noticed lately because I swapped stock rims for a square setup of 20x10s and made a few hard turns to see how new contact patch felt and I heard clunk In front end. Seems more pronounced while turning right but also in lefties too.
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Old 05-22-2014, 09:18 PM   #666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rcfiddy1 View Post
Nothing in front end. Only rear toe arms and a bmr sub frame connector and tunnel brace. I noticed the clunk while going ove a speed bump a few weeks ago but now I can just turn into a corner a bit hard, say around 20-30 mph and I'll get it every time. I only noticed lately because I swapped stock rims for a square setup of 20x10s and made a few hard turns to see how new contact patch felt and I heard clunk In front end. Seems more pronounced while turning right but also in lefties too.
Run through the process listed a post or so above and let us know if that resolves your noise.
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Old 05-23-2014, 07:16 AM   #667
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Got my car with 8 miles on it. After delivery and I was driving to work, I hit this bump making a right turn, doing 15 mph, and it sounds like someone took a large hammer and hit the car under the left front! I have an appointment at the dealership and I am going to drive them to this bump. I hit other bumps and no issues. Thank ya'll for the information!
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Old 05-23-2014, 09:28 AM   #668
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I can replicate sound anytime. Just turn hard into a 90 degree turn like a street corner and load the front end. Clunk every time. Doesn't matter if it's right or left sound will come from which ever side is loaded. Going in Tuesday to chevy.
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Old 05-27-2014, 02:37 PM   #669
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Dealer is blaming a heavily modified engine for the loud clunk in front end. Is that awesome or what? Even when my car is doing 35 mph it's so powerful it causes the clunk. Good work pine belt chevy of freehold for you insight.
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Old 05-27-2014, 03:48 PM   #670
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Originally Posted by Rcfiddy1 View Post
Dealer is blaming a heavily modified engine for the loud clunk in front end. Is that awesome or what? Even when my car is doing 35 mph it's so powerful it causes the clunk. Good work pine belt chevy of freehold for you insight.
Time to get some aftermarket suspension if you've got that much power (;
They'll say anything to keep from spending warranty bucks
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Old 05-27-2014, 05:15 PM   #671
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rcfiddy1 View Post
Dealer is blaming a heavily modified engine for the loud clunk in front end. Is that awesome or what? Even when my car is doing 35 mph it's so powerful it causes the clunk. Good work pine belt chevy of freehold for you insight.
If it is a weight related issues, then the dealer has a fair point. How much does the blower and related components weigh?

Is the sway car making contact with the a part of the blower, intercooler, some kind of plumbing?
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Old 05-27-2014, 06:49 PM   #672
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There is no contact at all. A novi supercharger mounts up like an alternator and probably weighs 75-100 pounds. Also I have to point out since I'm not running stock exhaust manifolds I'm am sure it shaved weight as to offset any added by my blower. Saying they can't replicate it but blame it on my supercharger is just plain lazy. We know there's an issue it's not like I'm the only one having this issue.to top off this great dealer experience they said my steering wheel wobble was due to wrong size tires on front, I'm running a 10 in square setup on new factory repos rims. Funny the wobble started before I even had these rims on car. It started when the front started clunking.
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Last edited by Rcfiddy1; 05-28-2014 at 04:06 AM.
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Old 05-28-2014, 04:03 AM   #673
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Time to get some aftermarket suspension if you've got that much power (;
They'll say anything to keep from spending warranty bucks
I was planning on that but wanted to sort out that clunking first. I've read that even people with upgraded parts are getting it.
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Old 07-05-2014, 07:38 AM   #674
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Hi guys very new to this form not sure this is the write location to post. I have 2010 LS Camaro decided to lower my car with coil over. found very good deal on LG motor sports for coil over, paid $785 including Tax + shipping and handling.

I lowered my car right to the fender look cool handling is very good also but I have one problem with clunking sound coming from back side when ever there is a bumpy road. The installer is saying its not the right design right now I am going back and forth with LG motors and the workshop I hope they will be able to figure it out. I took some pictures which I send to LG motors I am expecting some reply from LG. I was wondering anybody has similar experience. Your feed back will be appreciated.
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Old 07-07-2014, 08:12 AM   #675
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Hi guys very new to this form not sure this is the write location to post. I have 2010 LS Camaro decided to lower my car with coil over. found very good deal on LG motor sports for coil over, paid $785 including Tax + shipping and handling.

I lowered my car right to the fender look cool handling is very good also but I have one problem with clunking sound coming from back side when ever there is a bumpy road. The installer is saying its not the right design right now I am going back and forth with LG motors and the workshop I hope they will be able to figure it out. I took some pictures which I send to LG motors I am expecting some reply from LG. I was wondering anybody has similar experience. Your feed back will be appreciated.
I would need more detail and pictures to be able to comment.
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