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Old 08-14-2011, 08:05 PM   #1
Squintz Palladoris
 
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DIY:TICK Performance Stainless Braided Clutch Line

This Clutch line from Tick Performance replaces the stock piece and allows the fluid to flow faster than the stock line which is restricted. Similar to doing the "Drill Mod" on 4th gen clutch hydralics.

You will need
1. Tick Performance Clutch Line
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...010-v8-camaro/

1. Small bottle of DOT 3 brake fluid.

4. 1/4" vaccum caps

Tools required
Needle Nose Pliers
Mitivac 35 to 40 bucks at the local parts store. (Worth its weight in gold)


To make bleeding the assembly a bit easier I filled the Tick Line with brake fluid and capped the ends with the vaccum caps. To do this I poored some brake fluid in a small container and submerged one end of the line in the fluid. I then hooked the Mityvac up to the other end and applied vaccum to the line. Once the fluid was flowing all the way to the top, I removed the vaccum and quickly capped the top end with a vaccum cap. and then capped the other end.

Pics are below the instructions.

Step 1
Jack the car up high enough to slide under the car comfortably and suspend on Jack stands.

Step 2
Locate the clutch line next to the transmission on the drivers side of the bell housing.

Step 3
Remove the small bracket attached to the line and position the new line close by. Using the needle nose pliers pull down on the retaining clip untill it stops. This clip is not designed to come all the way out so do not try to remove it. Pull the stock line out of the fitting and cap it with a vaccum cap. Some fluid will drip out of the slave line so make sure you are not directly under it. Remove the vaccum cap from the new line and press it into the slave fitting until it is flush. then press the retaining clip back up into the fitting.

Step 4
Move to the top side and locate the clutch master cylinder. Push down on the retaining clip from the stock line that goes down to the slave. Same as underneath the car, it does not come all the way off. Just push down on the tabs from the top. I got mine loose with my finger. Pull the stock line out and cap it. Route the new line in and press it into the clutch master cylinder. Make sure it is seated all the way and return the clip to the locked position.

Step 5
Remove the stock line from the car. Ther is a bracket on the firewall hidden behind a wiring harness. It is hard to get to and the line is very secure in the bracket. Use patience, I could not fit any tools in that tight little space.

Step 6
Press the clutch pedal down with your hand. It will go all the way to the floor and stay there. Work the pedal through its full range of motion a few times to fill the system with fluid. Once the pedal comes up on its own sit in the drivers seat and pump the clutch pedal with your foot about 30 to 40 times. This will get most of the air out of the system. Bleed the system using the mitivac and replace the lost fluid in the resevoir.

Step 7
Clean up your mess and put the car on the ground.

Step 8
Enjoy!
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Old 08-14-2011, 08:56 PM   #2
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nice write up!!! notice anything???
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Old 08-14-2011, 09:06 PM   #3
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Thanks,

Yes, The pedal is a bit more responsive when released. Its shifts alot better in the lower RPMs. High RPM shifts are improved but still get an occasional grind on the 1,2.

These cars really need a better master cylinder. This will suffice untill one is availible.

I also ordered the Lingenfelter clutch return spring when I ordered the line from Tick. It was dropshipped from Lingenfelter and has not arrived yet. Once I get that on I will give my thoughts on it.

Brad
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Old 08-14-2011, 09:09 PM   #4
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Kick ass man!! glad you enjoy this mod, let us know how that spring works
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Old 08-14-2011, 09:16 PM   #5
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Might be stupid question but how do you bleed them on this car ??? Thinking about this and return spring and also GTO reservoir.
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Old 08-14-2011, 09:47 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JETG View Post
Might be stupid question but how do you bleed them on this car ??? Thinking about this and return spring and also GTO reservoir.
If you have a mityvac bleeding is a breeze. Even easier if you are running a separate resevoir for the clutch master.

On the stock resevoir getting the fitting from the mitivac into the proper position is a bit of a pain, but it can be done. I did it today.

For those that have never used this tool to bleed clutch hydralics I'll explain it. It is a hand held vacuum pump with a small resevoir and various tubes and fittings.
On the Camaro (Stock Resevoir) use one of the shorter fittings and work it down into the resevoir, pointed toward the drivers side fender. This is where the clutch master cylinder feed line is. Once it is inserted into the inside of the fitting that goes out to the master, pump it up untill it is around 15 inches of vacuum. The vacuum will cause the air bubbles to rise up through the tube. You will first see some fluid come up the clear tube towards the tool, and in that fluid you will see the bubbles. As the vacuum drops off keep pumping it back up untill you no longer see bubbles coming up the tube.
If you are useing a separate resavoir it is much easier as the fitting will drop right down into the hole it needs to go to.

Brad
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Old 08-16-2011, 12:19 PM   #7
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Thank you for the writeup Brad - very helpful! Let us know how the Lingenfelter spring works for you in combination with our line.
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Old 09-17-2011, 12:18 PM   #8
The 2010 Sin
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Totally fixed my issue, lingenfelter spring and new braided line from tick. I also have tick's speed bleeder. overall amazing bandaid till Tick gets more of my money! :-)


Quote:
Originally Posted by Squintz Palladoris View Post
If you have a mityvac bleeding is a breeze. Even easier if you are running a separate resevoir for the clutch master.

On the stock resevoir getting the fitting from the mitivac into the proper position is a bit of a pain, but it can be done. I did it today.

For those that have never used this tool to bleed clutch hydralics I'll explain it. It is a hand held vacuum pump with a small resevoir and various tubes and fittings.
On the Camaro (Stock Resevoir) use one of the shorter fittings and work it down into the resevoir, pointed toward the drivers side fender. This is where the clutch master cylinder feed line is. Once it is inserted into the inside of the fitting that goes out to the master, pump it up untill it is around 15 inches of vacuum. The vacuum will cause the air bubbles to rise up through the tube. You will first see some fluid come up the clear tube towards the tool, and in that fluid you will see the bubbles. As the vacuum drops off keep pumping it back up untill you no longer see bubbles coming up the tube.
If you are useing a separate resavoir it is much easier as the fitting will drop right down into the hole it needs to go to.

Brad
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Old 11-21-2011, 12:47 PM   #9
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I have 2011 LT V6 with same annoying problem. You have a kit to fit the V6 and resolve the clutch sticking and high rpm shift failures?
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Old 11-22-2011, 11:04 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DocT View Post
I have 2011 LT V6 with same annoying problem. You have a kit to fit the V6 and resolve the clutch sticking and high rpm shift failures?
Just V8 for now.
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Old 04-28-2012, 12:35 AM   #11
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Here's a question...How the heck did you get the stock hard line outta the car???? (without cutting it up into more manageable pieces)

Sam
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Old 05-13-2012, 12:00 PM   #12
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Where can the 1/4" vacuum caps be purchased?
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Old 10-12-2012, 05:48 AM   #13
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Old 10-12-2012, 06:32 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace1USMC View Post
Here's a question...How the heck did you get the stock hard line outta the car???? (without cutting it up into more manageable pieces)

Sam
Good question. I did this procedure (great write up by the way) and it is very straight forward and easy, except removing the stock line out. It took a lot of patience, and turning and twisting (no pulling hard!! because there is a wiring harness and other plastic stuff that could get caught up in the process) I ended having to physically bend part of the stock metal pipe to pull it up thru the engine bay. However the metal was flexible enough that it gave some, then went back to it's original shape. I have it hanging on the garage wall in case () i ever need to put it back on.

With the IdealG Cylinder and the tick line, I have done several full throttle/high rpm shifts and it's very smooth and peedle feel is great.
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