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Old 12-27-2009, 01:55 AM   #26
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great safety advice with the jack stands and blocking the wheels and e-brake! but start with cracking open a beer? lol
i just want to add..... fill the filter with oil before installing, and lower vehicle before checking level and starting up
the plug works and so does filtermag, just dont cut filter with a grinder, it will give you filings that didnt come from the bearings and scare the crap out of you!!
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Old 12-27-2009, 02:23 AM   #27
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If you arent going to crack open the filter to look at the media then no need to use a filter wrench. Punch a hole in the filter to drain the oil and then skewer the filter with same screwdriver and screw off.

Also, if you cant get off your oil filter without tools then its on too tight.

Another tip as well. Take some of your OLD oil and dip your finger in it. Run it along the rubber o-ring of the NEW oil filter and install. It will ensure that the filter comes off nice and easy next oil change.
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Old 12-27-2009, 08:52 AM   #28
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I also wondered what you spent on your DIY oil change? I was told by the dealer the car doesn't come with synth oil, which did you use?
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Old 12-27-2009, 09:24 AM   #29
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anyone putting royal purple in their maro's?
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Old 12-27-2009, 09:29 AM   #30
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Strictly AMSOIL for me and all my vehicles/toys!
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Old 12-27-2009, 09:31 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by td2222 View Post
I also wondered what you spent on your DIY oil change? I was told by the dealer the car doesn't come with synth oil, which did you use?
you were told wrong and I would reconsider having that dealership work on your vehicle, simpy read the owners manual. I use AMSOIL personally.
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Old 12-27-2009, 10:15 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by eynigush View Post
Good post. Very handy to encourage the do-it-yourselfers so they can save $140 at the dealership. Thanks.

$140??? That is insane!
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Old 12-27-2009, 10:37 AM   #33
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Old 12-27-2009, 11:07 AM   #34
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I just buy the supplies I need from wal-mart with my 10% discount and then bring the car anywhere that changes oil and they do it for like $10-$15 when I give them the supplies. Total mobile 1 synthetic change costs me around $38-$46
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Old 12-27-2009, 11:16 AM   #35
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When I took my 1SS in to the dealer get the locknuts on the spoiler done, I got a survey to do. Guy gave me a certificate for a free (synthetic!) oil change....know where my next oil change will be!
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Old 12-27-2009, 02:07 PM   #36
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Try Mr Goodwrench

$84.00 at Gordon Chevy, Garden City, MI. How can you beat that? I don't know if that is a one-time price or typical dealer price, but I've never gotten a service discount without asking for it.
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Old 12-27-2009, 03:01 PM   #37
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Great info
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Old 12-27-2009, 03:18 PM   #38
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never thought about putting nail through the bottom of oil filter to drain the oil in all the years I have done my own,nice hint.Also paid 72.00 on the last two oil changes from dealership (Reeder).
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Old 12-27-2009, 03:34 PM   #39
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Hmmmmm?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ssrsheaven View Post
never thought about putting nail through the bottom of oil filter to drain the oil in all the years I have done my own,nice hint.Also paid 72.00 on the last two oil changes from dealership (Reeder).
As long as you get 7.8 qts out, then OK. Just make sure nothing left in the pan.
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Old 12-27-2009, 04:12 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssrsheaven View Post
never thought about putting nail through the bottom of oil filter to drain the oil in all the years I have done my own,nice hint.Also paid 72.00 on the last two oil changes from dealership (Reeder).
Never thought about a nail. Iíve always used a center punch and a hammer to put a small hole in the side. I have only had my oil changed by someone else once, and it cost me 90 bucks for the Sky. That was the last and only time. I simply do not trust other people when it comes to my vehicles. That and Iíve seen too many mistakes made on oil changes.

Has anybody lubed their car yet? Iím due for an oil change soon, and I almost always grease it while Iím under there. Just looking for any hidden grease fittings that might be under there.
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Old 12-27-2009, 06:20 PM   #41
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I doubt you'll find any grease fittings. Most car manufacturers switched to sealed ball joints and other suspension parts years ago.
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Old 12-27-2009, 07:47 PM   #42
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made the front page! YES!!

all the suggestions that have been made are in the write up at some point, but thanks for the suggestions guys.

at my next change, ill be doing the transmission and rear diff fluids, so ill do another DIY for those along with a follow up on my filtermag and magnetic plug findings.
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Old 12-27-2009, 08:59 PM   #43
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To avoid metallic particles in oil:

Quote:
Originally Posted by amphi View Post
I thought the LS3 is casted from aluminum. What parts are made of Iron that would be picked up by the magnets if found in the oil?
Fist off, GREAT article! Easy to follow explanation and some great tips.

Secondly, this article reminded me of this link:
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38438

According to that article, there are lots of various metallic particles that will appear in the engine as a result of breaking it in. That drain plug is a monster!! I'll have to get one of those someday. The filtermag seems promising too, but I'm slightly more on the fence about that one: Isn't that what the screens in the filter are for anyways?
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Old 12-27-2009, 09:02 PM   #44
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I'm looking forward to the filtermag review.
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Old 12-28-2009, 09:51 AM   #45
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Nice write up. Will be sure to save this.

thanks
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Old 12-28-2009, 11:34 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bumblebee10 View Post
I just buy the supplies I need from wal-mart with my 10% discount and then bring the car anywhere that changes oil and they do it for like $10-$15 when I give them the supplies. Total mobile 1 synthetic change costs me around $38-$46

Just FYI for all of those that pay a place to change your oil -- you are not getting a complete oil change.

I used to work at "quick lube" place. The rule of thumb was when the oil went from a solid stream, to a partial stream, put the plug back in and start filling with oil 1 quart lower than the manuf. spec. It takes longer than a few minutes for all of the oil to drain out.


Just one other FYI -- look at the oil pan when the car is on the ramps. I bet there is 1/2 quart of oil sitting in the pan behind the plug. I use 4 jack stands to keep it level.



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Old 12-28-2009, 02:16 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by FirstLSK View Post
Just FYI for all of those that pay a place to change your oil -- you are not getting a complete oil change.

I used to work at "quick lube" place. The rule of thumb was when the oil went from a solid stream, to a partial stream, put the plug back in and start filling with oil 1 quart lower than the manuf. spec. It takes longer than a few minutes for all of the oil to drain out.


Just one other FYI -- look at the oil pan when the car is on the ramps. I bet there is 1/2 quart of oil sitting in the pan behind the plug. I use 4 jack stands to keep it level.



.

Exactly. It could have been a fast change as mentioned above leaving a substantial amount in there. I do all my own oil changes. Going to try the hole punch in my Silverado oil filter, because that one gets pretty messy. My 2000 Camaro V6 is the easiest one to do since its horizontal.
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Old 12-28-2009, 02:30 PM   #48
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This is a nice writeup on changing the oil. Thanks for sharing.
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Old 12-28-2009, 04:05 PM   #49
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Has anyone did this for the v6 with a write-up? I know the filter is somewhere on top rather than on the bottom. Any other differences???
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Old 12-28-2009, 05:11 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adub4185 View Post
made the front page! YES!!

all the suggestions that have been made are in the write up at some point, but thanks for the suggestions guys.

at my next change, ill be doing the transmission and rear diff fluids, so ill do another DIY for those along with a follow up on my filtermag and magnetic plug findings.
PM me when you've put up these DIYs and we'll see about putting it on the front page. Thanks for sharing
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