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Old 12-28-2009, 06:30 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strobi View Post
I know the filter mag won't work for the V6 (oil filter located in engine compartment), but will the gold tip drain plug still work for the V6? Thanks Strobi
I don't understand the comment about the filter mag not working on the V6. The filter mag product appears to just slap onto the outside of your filter canister. Anyone know why it wouldn't work?
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Old 12-28-2009, 07:40 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Akagitsune View Post
Fist off, GREAT article! Easy to follow explanation and some great tips.

Secondly, this article reminded me of this link:
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38438

According to that article, there are lots of various metallic particles that will appear in the engine as a result of breaking it in. That drain plug is a monster!! I'll have to get one of those someday. The filtermag seems promising too, but I'm slightly more on the fence about that one: Isn't that what the screens in the filter are for anyways?

there are particles that occur during break in as the rings seat them selves and scrape the inside of the cylinder walls. the one thing to keep in mind however, is that aluminum isnt magnetic. so just because you dont see anything stuck to the drain plug doesnt mean you dont have some shavings somewhere.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Kept-a-rollin View Post
I don't understand the comment about the filter mag not working on the V6. The filter mag product appears to just slap onto the outside of your filter canister. Anyone know why it wouldn't work?

I dont recall if the filter canister on the v6 is metal or composite/plastic. if it is plastic, then the filter mag wont stick to it as its not magnetic.
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Read that link that Spike posted, it'll tell you everything you need to know.
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Nobody makes CamaroSpike happy. You just disgust him a little less than other people.
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Old 12-28-2009, 10:06 PM   #53
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How often does the camaro need an oil change?

Most new cars are not 3 months / 3,000 miles anymore.
EDIT:

Answered my own question. Owner Manula page: 9-13

Engine Oil Life System
"This is based
on engine revolutions and engine
temperature, and not on mileage."

Last edited by WhiteCrane; 12-28-2009 at 10:21 PM.
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Old 12-28-2009, 10:24 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteCrane View Post
How often does the camaro need an oil change?

Most new cars are not 3 months / 3,000 miles anymore.

most have been changing the oil the first time around 1500 miles then whenever the car tells you to.
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Quote:
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Read that link that Spike posted, it'll tell you everything you need to know.
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Nobody makes CamaroSpike happy. You just disgust him a little less than other people.
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Old 12-29-2009, 12:53 PM   #55
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The manual says with conservative driving the oil may last a year! I'm so happy. Oil changes are a total inconvenience to me.

They were fun when I was 17.
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Old 12-29-2009, 01:56 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteCrane View Post
How often does the camaro need an oil change?

Most new cars are not 3 months / 3,000 miles anymore.
EDIT:

Answered my own question. Owner Manula page: 9-13

Engine Oil Life System
"This is based
on engine revolutions and engine
temperature, and not on mileage."
my plan is to change again at 3000 miles (first one was done around 1400 miles) along with the rear diff and tranny. then after that i will change the oil every 3000 miles regardless of what the car's oil life monitor says. change it frequently and use quality parts, your car will love you for it.
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Old 12-30-2009, 10:50 AM   #57
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Thanks for the write-up, just goes to show even the simplest things can use a good write-up and everyone can pick something up from it. I wasn't even aware of the FilterMag and Magnetic plug until this posting, thanks again...
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Old 12-30-2009, 04:14 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by CamaroSpike23 View Post
there are particles that occur during break in as the rings seat them selves and scrape the inside of the cylinder walls. the one thing to keep in mind however, is that aluminum isnt magnetic. so just because you dont see anything stuck to the drain plug doesnt mean you dont have some shavings somewhere.





I dont recall if the filter canister on the v6 is metal or composite/plastic. if it is plastic, then the filter mag wont stick to it as its not magnetic.
But the most important part is, the factory selves/cylinder liners are iron.., if you do in fact see stuff stuck to the magnetic I would be very woried...
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Old 01-02-2010, 03:37 PM   #59
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2LT oil change notes

Hey, thanks for the posting. It helped me get started on changing my oil. A few notes for V6 oil changes. (I have a 2LT RS)

M1-113 filters are only for V8s. The V6 uses full-flow oil cartridges. I bought both at the store. Looked all over the bottom of the engine before looking again under the hood. Its actually really easy to replace the cartridge. It is right next to where you fill the oil on the right side of the engine. Use a 15/16" socket with a 4" extension and your all set. The V6 also only takes 6 qts of oil. I had to use ramps the first time but next time I may try to just park on a curb since the V6 only needs access underneath to drain the oil. BTW use a 15MM wrench for the oil plug.

Now for the blunder.... I got excited the night before and bought Qty 3 Mobil 1 M1-113 filters on a web special with no shipping and for $9 each. (Normally 12.99) That was a good deal I thought...except I have a V6 that cannot use these. If anyone wants to buy these let me know. I will sell all 3 for $27 and include shipping. Just don't want to be stuck with them.
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Old 01-02-2010, 05:58 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by htgeneral View Post
Hey, thanks for the posting. It helped me get started on changing my oil. A few notes for V6 oil changes. (I have a 2LT RS)

M1-113 filters are only for V8s. The V6 uses full-flow oil cartridges. I bought both at the store. Looked all over the bottom of the engine before looking again under the hood. Its actually really easy to replace the cartridge. It is right next to where you fill the oil on the right side of the engine. Use a 15/16" socket with a 4" extension and your all set. The V6 also only takes 6 qts of oil. I had to use ramps the first time but next time I may try to just park on a curb since the V6 only needs access underneath to drain the oil. BTW use a 15MM wrench for the oil plug.

























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Old 01-02-2010, 10:35 PM   #61
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Thanks for the pics of the V6 oil change. Now I can see why the filter mag is not a product for the V6, due to the use of a drop-in cartridge rather than a metal canister-style filter.
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Old 01-02-2010, 10:52 PM   #62
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Hey guys,

I'm a newb at changing my own oil and have a question. My car has GFX on it, can it still be jacked up and put on stands easily? I ask because at this tire place I was at last month some guy's civic's side skirts cracked when the car was jacked. Maybe it was bad practice, but I just want to be sure. I plan on doing this next weekend. Thanks for the write up too, I appreciate this!

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Old 01-03-2010, 12:58 AM   #63
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Ok so some more nub questions (bear with me, I'm learning)!

I bought a (1) 4k lb trolly jack and (2) 3k lb jack stands, will these be enough to hold up the car for this? I'd use ramps, but I wanted the jacks for other stuff later on (painting calipers, cleaning wheel well and rims etc.).

I can find a lift point on the car for the jack, but where do I apply the jack stands?

Thanks in advance.

Vince
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Old 01-04-2010, 02:43 PM   #64
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Quote:
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Hey guys,

I'm a newb at changing my own oil and have a question. My car has GFX on it, can it still be jacked up and put on stands easily? I ask because at this tire place I was at last month some guy's civic's side skirts cracked when the car was jacked. Maybe it was bad practice, but I just want to be sure. I plan on doing this next weekend. Thanks for the write up too, I appreciate this!

Vince


Ok so some more nub questions (bear with me, I'm learning)!

I bought a (1) 4k lb trolly jack and (2) 3k lb jack stands, will these be enough to hold up the car for this? I'd use ramps, but I wanted the jacks for other stuff later on (painting calipers, cleaning wheel well and rims etc.).

I can find a lift point on the car for the jack, but where do I apply the jack stands?

Thanks in advance.

Vince
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Old 01-04-2010, 03:35 PM   #65
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You will possibly have to build some 2X4 ramps. Just to get it high enough to get the jack under the GFX.

You can put the jack stands on the K Member and that should be good.
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Old 01-04-2010, 05:57 PM   #66
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You will possibly have to build some 2X4 ramps. Just to get it high enough to get the jack under the GFX.

You can put the jack stands on the K Member and that should be good.
Thanks bballr,

BTW, whats the k member look like?
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Old 01-04-2010, 06:29 PM   #67
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Its what supports the engine. Shouldnt be too hard to spot honestly.
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Old 01-05-2010, 08:24 AM   #68
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Thanks bballr,

BTW, whats the k member look like?
First see if you can get your floor jack on the front of the car. If you can then find the crossmember (K member) and put the jack point there.

Find a secure spot by each front wheel to put the jack stand.

Personally I use the 8,000 lb rhino ramps I bought at Autozone. I think with your GFX it will not clear so you would need to put the ramps on a piece of plywood so that the wheels touch the plywood before it gets to the ramp.

Good luck.
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Old 01-05-2010, 10:10 AM   #69
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Cool. Thanks for the help guys.
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Old 01-19-2010, 11:53 AM   #70
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I have a couple of nub questions again. Bear with me.

To drain the oil I would pop out the bolt in the picture below with the circle around it? And the oil filter would be the blue guy in the picture below with the circle around it? Is the blue thing a cover?


As for jackpoints, can I jack up the car using the points with arrows in the pic below? Or would these spot be better for jack stands?
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Old 01-19-2010, 12:22 PM   #71
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Those would be good points for jackstands or hoist arm pads. Or if you're using two jacks, one on each side at that location.

I prefer to use a floor jack in the middle on the crossmember. The crossmember is the black steel frame piece in your picture in front of your stream of draining oil. Maybe a foot or so in front of your oil stream, not the skinnier one just in front of the blue filter. The crossmember goes between the two front frame rails, in about where a line between the center of the two front wheels would be drawn.

I put some rags on my lift pad to reduce scratching that frame piece. Make sure a tang on the lift pad catches on the back of the crossmember so it does not slip off. Driving up on a couple of boards will help give room to get a floor jack under there and room to watch it to make sure it is hitting it correctly.

Make sure e-brake is on, in gear, and rear wheels chocked. Don't want that thing budging.

Then when working under it, I set it on the jack stands and put the floor jack back up against the crossmember just as double insurance. Or put
ramps under the tires if the wheels are staying on.
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Old 01-19-2010, 12:52 PM   #72
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GReat tips, driving onto some boards, why did I not think of that

This needs to be added to the DIY Guids.
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Old 01-20-2010, 11:17 AM   #73
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Quote:
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Those would be good points for jackstands or hoist arm pads. Or if you're using two jacks, one on each side at that location.

I prefer to use a floor jack in the middle on the crossmember. The crossmember is the black steel frame piece in your picture in front of your stream of draining oil. Maybe a foot or so in front of your oil stream, not the skinnier one just in front of the blue filter. The crossmember goes between the two front frame rails, in about where a line between the center of the two front wheels would be drawn.

I put some rags on my lift pad to reduce scratching that frame piece. Make sure a tang on the lift pad catches on the back of the crossmember so it does not slip off. Driving up on a couple of boards will help give room to get a floor jack under there and room to watch it to make sure it is hitting it correctly.

Make sure e-brake is on, in gear, and rear wheels chocked. Don't want that thing budging.

Then when working under it, I set it on the jack stands and put the floor jack back up against the crossmember just as double insurance. Or put
ramps under the tires if the wheels are staying on.
Thanks soo much for the reply that was very helpful.

About the other pic I posted with the circles, To drain the oil I would pop out the bolt with the circle around it? And the oil filter would be the blue guy with the circle around it? Is the blue thing a cover?
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Old 01-20-2010, 11:35 AM   #74
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Great details. I get my oil changed for free for 6yrs. I think. Which I think it's like prepaid. I bought that warranty that covers all of the car for 6yrs. or 100,000 miles. They write on my ticket that the oil change would have cost me 81.00 if I was paying for it. I like that part about the warranty.
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Old 01-20-2010, 04:26 PM   #75
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Quote:
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Thanks soo much for the reply that was very helpful.

About the other pic I posted with the circles, To drain the oil I would pop out the bolt with the circle around it? And the oil filter would be the blue guy with the circle around it? Is the blue thing a cover?
Yes, the bolt with the circle around will drain your oil. The blue guy is your oil filter and just unscrews off the car. It is not a cover, but a complete canister filter. Be sure to inspect and clean the area once you get the filter off. Good luck!
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