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Old 01-05-2010, 11:10 AM   #69
scythezo6
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Cool. Thanks for the help guys.
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Old 01-19-2010, 12:53 PM   #70
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I have a couple of nub questions again. Bear with me.

To drain the oil I would pop out the bolt in the picture below with the circle around it? And the oil filter would be the blue guy in the picture below with the circle around it? Is the blue thing a cover?


As for jackpoints, can I jack up the car using the points with arrows in the pic below? Or would these spot be better for jack stands?
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Old 01-19-2010, 01:22 PM   #71
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Those would be good points for jackstands or hoist arm pads. Or if you're using two jacks, one on each side at that location.

I prefer to use a floor jack in the middle on the crossmember. The crossmember is the black steel frame piece in your picture in front of your stream of draining oil. Maybe a foot or so in front of your oil stream, not the skinnier one just in front of the blue filter. The crossmember goes between the two front frame rails, in about where a line between the center of the two front wheels would be drawn.

I put some rags on my lift pad to reduce scratching that frame piece. Make sure a tang on the lift pad catches on the back of the crossmember so it does not slip off. Driving up on a couple of boards will help give room to get a floor jack under there and room to watch it to make sure it is hitting it correctly.

Make sure e-brake is on, in gear, and rear wheels chocked. Don't want that thing budging.

Then when working under it, I set it on the jack stands and put the floor jack back up against the crossmember just as double insurance. Or put
ramps under the tires if the wheels are staying on.
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Old 01-19-2010, 01:52 PM   #72
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GReat tips, driving onto some boards, why did I not think of that

This needs to be added to the DIY Guids.
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Old 01-20-2010, 12:17 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russell James View Post
Those would be good points for jackstands or hoist arm pads. Or if you're using two jacks, one on each side at that location.

I prefer to use a floor jack in the middle on the crossmember. The crossmember is the black steel frame piece in your picture in front of your stream of draining oil. Maybe a foot or so in front of your oil stream, not the skinnier one just in front of the blue filter. The crossmember goes between the two front frame rails, in about where a line between the center of the two front wheels would be drawn.

I put some rags on my lift pad to reduce scratching that frame piece. Make sure a tang on the lift pad catches on the back of the crossmember so it does not slip off. Driving up on a couple of boards will help give room to get a floor jack under there and room to watch it to make sure it is hitting it correctly.

Make sure e-brake is on, in gear, and rear wheels chocked. Don't want that thing budging.

Then when working under it, I set it on the jack stands and put the floor jack back up against the crossmember just as double insurance. Or put
ramps under the tires if the wheels are staying on.
Thanks soo much for the reply that was very helpful.

About the other pic I posted with the circles, To drain the oil I would pop out the bolt with the circle around it? And the oil filter would be the blue guy with the circle around it? Is the blue thing a cover?
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Old 01-20-2010, 12:35 PM   #74
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Great details. I get my oil changed for free for 6yrs. I think. Which I think it's like prepaid. I bought that warranty that covers all of the car for 6yrs. or 100,000 miles. They write on my ticket that the oil change would have cost me 81.00 if I was paying for it. I like that part about the warranty.
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Old 01-20-2010, 05:26 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scythezo6 View Post
Thanks soo much for the reply that was very helpful.

About the other pic I posted with the circles, To drain the oil I would pop out the bolt with the circle around it? And the oil filter would be the blue guy with the circle around it? Is the blue thing a cover?
Yes, the bolt with the circle around will drain your oil. The blue guy is your oil filter and just unscrews off the car. It is not a cover, but a complete canister filter. Be sure to inspect and clean the area once you get the filter off. Good luck!
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Old 01-20-2010, 08:52 PM   #76
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Yes, the bolt with the circle around will drain your oil. The blue guy is your oil filter and just unscrews off the car. It is not a cover, but a complete canister filter. Be sure to inspect and clean the area once you get the filter off. Good luck!
Thank you very much! I'll be tackling this as well as painting my GM GFX exhaust bezels this weekend. So excited.
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Old 01-20-2010, 09:21 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scythezo6 View Post
Thank you very much! I'll be tackling this as well as painting my GM GFX exhaust bezels this weekend. So excited.
i hope both DIY's go well for you. since you seem new to oil changes, if you have any questions midway through or anything like that dont hesitate to PM me. i should be able to answer any questions you have.
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Old 01-23-2010, 05:33 PM   #78
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Thanks for this thread. I just did mine today at 1,496 miles. I used a filtermag (model RA300) and a goldplug, too. I also changed the diff fluid. It was pretty nasty and there were some shavings on the drain plug.
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Old 01-23-2010, 05:42 PM   #79
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I posted a DIY ramp thread, it may be helpful!
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Old 01-24-2010, 07:39 PM   #80
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i just changed first oil at 2500 miles. i only put 6.5 quarts in. the dip stick is not very accurate. it read full and a little over the marks on the dip stick. do u know the best way to read the oil level. and to know exactly what to put in? i know it takes 8 quarts but it seemed full at 6.5.

2ss manual! thanks.
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Old 01-31-2010, 06:25 PM   #81
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Great write up!!! I just ordered the pan bolt and will pick up the mag filter when I purchase more things from Jeg's so I just dont pay 11 bucks shipping on this one thing. One quick question since I didnt see it anywhere in this post??? Is there a bigger truck oil filter available for the LS3? I know I used the truck filter on my LT1 and it held about a quart of oil in the filter alone
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Old 01-31-2010, 06:30 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FANTA-Z View Post
Great write up!!! I just ordered the pan bolt and will pick up the mag filter when I purchase more things from Jeg's so I just dont pay 11 bucks shipping on this one thing. One quick question since I didnt see it anywhere in this post??? Is there a bigger truck oil filter available for the LS3? I know I used the truck filter on my LT1 and it held about a quart of oil in the filter alone
I have no idea about a bigger truck oil filter for the car. Maybe someone else can chime in on this. I used the suggested Mobile 1 filter during my oil change. Sorry I couldnt be more help.
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Old 01-31-2010, 06:32 PM   #83
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Not a problem at all. I have all the stuff to do my first oil change which will be whenever this lovely winter weather decides to break lol. I will be using all Mobil 1 products and will be installing synthetic which is what I use in all my vehicles as well.
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Old 03-16-2010, 08:08 PM   #84
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Update: see post 2 for follow-up pictures. The results were interesting to say the least. Sorry to everyone for how long this took, but I dont drive the car much. Enjoy and feel free to ask questions if you have any.
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Old 03-23-2010, 03:30 PM   #85
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Few questions:

-Is this write up only for the V8 engine?
-Except for the filter is the drain plug located in the same area on the V6?
-Also can the catchcan be used on the v6 engine?
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