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Old 12-04-2009, 07:39 AM   #15
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Rear wheels are 11.5x20 w/305/35

Its not a wheel or tire issue.As stated previously the pass side has alot of clearance.I think its just a matter of getting the car on a lift and moving the cable in a way that it cannot crep back.Im heading out in a few minutes to the dealer to see what can be done.

Just thought it would be a good idea for others to check this before they start hearing the terrible sound of the braided cable rubbing against a wheel....usually when cornering.
i was wondering what that was from. love those freeway on and off ramps.
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Old 12-04-2009, 10:33 AM   #16
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jacked mine up and put on some zip ties. got the alignment done. runs smooth now.
Thanks for the info, I would have never looked at the brake line.
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Old 12-04-2009, 10:50 AM   #17
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I looked closer at mine last night and the passenger side I had no concerns about as it stands now since I am not lowered yet but on the driver side I did notice there was a wheel weight stuck on at the edge of the rim and it has a pretty sharp corner and when I rotated the wheel around to line the weight up with the ebrake line and it was too close for comfort. I noticed the ebrake line enters into a plastic "barrel" that sits in a clamp on the chassis, further in there is another barrel the line runs through before turning and heading toward the front of the car. Because I can't get the car on a lift until this weekend and didn't feel like jacking the car up and taking the wheels off to get in there, I was able to reach the inner barrel on both ebrake lines and pop them up out of their clamps, this released a ton of tension on the line coming out of the outer barrel and gave me another 3/4 inches of clearance from the inside edge of the rim and more notably the edge of the wheel weight as it passes by. Now I understand the inner clamp for the ebrake barrel is there to serve a purpose and I will go back in and secure the inner barrel once I get it up on a lift this weekend. I just couldn't wait to drive the friggin car anymore since it has been sitting in the garage since delivery two weeks ago!!!
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Old 12-04-2009, 10:51 AM   #18
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jacked mine up and put on some zip ties. got the alignment done. runs smooth now.
Thanks for the info, I would have never looked at the brake line.
+1, I too wanna thank FEN for the heads up, I would never thought to look at the line until it was possibly too late. Thanks for taking one for the team FEN
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Old 12-04-2009, 10:53 AM   #19
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+1, I too wanna thank FEN for the heads up, I would never thought to look at the line until it was possibly too late. Thanks for taking one for the team FEN
I can see some metal on my brake line, but it should be OK. I will order some new break lines soon.
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Old 12-04-2009, 11:02 AM   #20
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I can see some metal on my brake line, but it should be OK. I will order some new break lines soon.
Safety is alway the #1 concern in a performance car.

FYI, if you have purchased pedders bits to lower your car you may be eligible for a December Dollar Days half price SS Brake line kit. Mike started a thread on this a few days ago.
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Old 12-04-2009, 11:03 AM   #21
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The mods may want to make this a sticky. There is a potential safety issue with brake lines and TPMS sensors that everyone needs to be aware of.
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Old 12-04-2009, 11:08 AM   #22
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I'm guessing offsets are needed as well since that will affect how the wheel sits in there .. it might be good to post wheel sizes and offsets with if you have had any issues or if you haven't had any issues..

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Old 12-04-2009, 11:14 AM   #23
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The mods may want to make this a sticky. There is a potential safety issue with brake lines and TPMS sensors that everyone needs to be aware of.
Sounds to me like the safety issue is people dropping their rides - not TPMS or brake lines.
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Old 12-04-2009, 11:22 AM   #24
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Sounds to me like the safety issue is people dropping their rides - not TPMS or brake lines.
Regardless of how it is worded the message is the same. Aftermartket rims with valve stem style TPMS in a secondary hole on a normal ride height car can have a problem as well.
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Old 12-04-2009, 11:25 AM   #25
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Regardless of how it is worded the message is the same. Aftermartket rims with valve stem style TPMS in a secondary hole on a normal ride height car can have a problem as well.
When you are talking about safety, the wording is very important. It's one thing to say "modifier, beware". It's another thing altogether to say (or have incorrectly interpreted) there is something inherently wrong with the OEM setup.

I think it's great to warn people of what can happen when they modify their ride. Proceed with caution!
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Old 12-04-2009, 11:30 AM   #26
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Sounds to me like the safety issue is people dropping their rides - not TPMS or brake lines.
I wouldn't say that dropping the cars are a safety issue, instead it is being aware of what is impacted when wider wheels, a dropped ride, or a combination of those two are implemented. The ebrake lines are "anchored" where they are from the factory base don clearances required at stock ride height with stock wheels widths and offsets. Adjust either of those things and the factory clearance of the ebrake lines are no longer valid and need to be checked and addressed if clearance is an issue. I know the first thing that came to my mind wasn't "I better check the ebrake line after I install my wheels" and it doesn't seem it was the OP'ers either but the good thing is he was able to quickly identify the issue, raise it in the community and a bunch of other folks are checking their setup to confirm or deny clearance issues.

I would agree that doing almost anything to a car that strays from the factory specs can be deemed a "safety issue" but I wouldn't use this ebrake issue to deter folks from lowering. There hasn't been anyone with stock wheels that has chimed in yet to mention a clearance issue once they dropped, it seems to be the combo of wider wheels and dropping.
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Old 12-04-2009, 01:36 PM   #27
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Hey Guys,

The wheel offsets are perfect!! The Eiback & other suspension mods are also not the problem. Its a combination of factors that add up.....wheel width,suspension drop and how much slack was left in the EBrake cable from the factory.

Zip ties may work but i wanted a litlle more assurance.If you put your car in the air you can see all the clamps that Robertway spoke of(metal w/white bushing inside).You just need to start towards the front and begin sliding the cable forward until there is a good clearance at the wheel (aprox 1.5" on mine) then find a rubber fuel line with roughly the same ID as the OD of the EBrake cable.Cut a piece about 3/4" +/- long and slit it down one side.Then slide it over/around the cable just behind the white bushing/clamp (first bushing closest to wheel) and then install a small Stainless hose clamp and tighten that baby down.

My driver side cable was worn thru to the first layer of braided metal.We chose to use a hot glue to cover this small exposed area. The cable was still perfectly functional and this fix was just a preventative measure to stop corrosion,etc. So far my cables have not moved and all is good.

This is a very easy thing to overlook and im sure there are many more people that may have this problem (if they have lowered their car and installed wider wheels) and not even know it.It really shows its ugly face after the Ebrakes protective rubber coating is worn away and you make a few hard turns which allows the body to roll and thus allowing the cable to rub against the wheel....NOT a good sound....metal on metal.

BUT the good news is that this has a super easy and quick fix!!
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Old 12-04-2009, 02:37 PM   #28
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Quote:
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Hey Guys,

The wheel offsets are perfect!! The Eiback & other suspension mods are also not the problem. Its a combination of factors that add up.....wheel width,suspension drop and how much slack was left in the EBrake cable from the factory.

Zip ties may work but i wanted a litlle more assurance.If you put your car in the air you can see all the clamps that Robertway spoke of(metal w/white bushing inside).You just need to start towards the front and begin sliding the cable forward until there is a good clearance at the wheel (aprox 1.5" on mine) then find a rubber fuel line with roughly the same ID as the OD of the EBrake cable.Cut a piece about 3/4" +/- long and slit it down one side.Then slide it over/around the cable just behind the white bushing/clamp (first bushing closest to wheel) and then install a small Stainless hose clamp and tighten that baby down.

My driver side cable was worn thru to the first layer of braided metal.We chose to use a hot glue to cover this small exposed area. The cable was still perfectly functional and this fix was just a preventative measure to stop corrosion,etc. So far my cables have not moved and all is good.

This is a very easy thing to overlook and im sure there are many more people that may have this problem (if they have lowered their car and installed wider wheels) and not even know it.It really shows its ugly face after the Ebrakes protective rubber coating is worn away and you make a few hard turns which allows the body to roll and thus allowing the cable to rub against the wheel....NOT a good sound....metal on metal.

BUT the good news is that this has a super easy and quick fix!!
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