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Old 12-04-2009, 11:30 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Easy Go View Post
Sounds to me like the safety issue is people dropping their rides - not TPMS or brake lines.
I wouldn't say that dropping the cars are a safety issue, instead it is being aware of what is impacted when wider wheels, a dropped ride, or a combination of those two are implemented. The ebrake lines are "anchored" where they are from the factory base don clearances required at stock ride height with stock wheels widths and offsets. Adjust either of those things and the factory clearance of the ebrake lines are no longer valid and need to be checked and addressed if clearance is an issue. I know the first thing that came to my mind wasn't "I better check the ebrake line after I install my wheels" and it doesn't seem it was the OP'ers either but the good thing is he was able to quickly identify the issue, raise it in the community and a bunch of other folks are checking their setup to confirm or deny clearance issues.

I would agree that doing almost anything to a car that strays from the factory specs can be deemed a "safety issue" but I wouldn't use this ebrake issue to deter folks from lowering. There hasn't been anyone with stock wheels that has chimed in yet to mention a clearance issue once they dropped, it seems to be the combo of wider wheels and dropping.
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Old 12-04-2009, 01:36 PM   #27
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Hey Guys,

The wheel offsets are perfect!! The Eiback & other suspension mods are also not the problem. Its a combination of factors that add up.....wheel width,suspension drop and how much slack was left in the EBrake cable from the factory.

Zip ties may work but i wanted a litlle more assurance.If you put your car in the air you can see all the clamps that Robertway spoke of(metal w/white bushing inside).You just need to start towards the front and begin sliding the cable forward until there is a good clearance at the wheel (aprox 1.5" on mine) then find a rubber fuel line with roughly the same ID as the OD of the EBrake cable.Cut a piece about 3/4" +/- long and slit it down one side.Then slide it over/around the cable just behind the white bushing/clamp (first bushing closest to wheel) and then install a small Stainless hose clamp and tighten that baby down.

My driver side cable was worn thru to the first layer of braided metal.We chose to use a hot glue to cover this small exposed area. The cable was still perfectly functional and this fix was just a preventative measure to stop corrosion,etc. So far my cables have not moved and all is good.

This is a very easy thing to overlook and im sure there are many more people that may have this problem (if they have lowered their car and installed wider wheels) and not even know it.It really shows its ugly face after the Ebrakes protective rubber coating is worn away and you make a few hard turns which allows the body to roll and thus allowing the cable to rub against the wheel....NOT a good sound....metal on metal.

BUT the good news is that this has a super easy and quick fix!!
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Old 12-04-2009, 02:37 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FEN View Post
Hey Guys,

The wheel offsets are perfect!! The Eiback & other suspension mods are also not the problem. Its a combination of factors that add up.....wheel width,suspension drop and how much slack was left in the EBrake cable from the factory.

Zip ties may work but i wanted a litlle more assurance.If you put your car in the air you can see all the clamps that Robertway spoke of(metal w/white bushing inside).You just need to start towards the front and begin sliding the cable forward until there is a good clearance at the wheel (aprox 1.5" on mine) then find a rubber fuel line with roughly the same ID as the OD of the EBrake cable.Cut a piece about 3/4" +/- long and slit it down one side.Then slide it over/around the cable just behind the white bushing/clamp (first bushing closest to wheel) and then install a small Stainless hose clamp and tighten that baby down.

My driver side cable was worn thru to the first layer of braided metal.We chose to use a hot glue to cover this small exposed area. The cable was still perfectly functional and this fix was just a preventative measure to stop corrosion,etc. So far my cables have not moved and all is good.

This is a very easy thing to overlook and im sure there are many more people that may have this problem (if they have lowered their car and installed wider wheels) and not even know it.It really shows its ugly face after the Ebrakes protective rubber coating is worn away and you make a few hard turns which allows the body to roll and thus allowing the cable to rub against the wheel....NOT a good sound....metal on metal.

BUT the good news is that this has a super easy and quick fix!!
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Old 12-04-2009, 02:42 PM   #29
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Keep in mind that some aftermarket wheels using an inboard TPMS valve stem style sensor will create interference with the E-Brake cable on vehicles that have not been lowered.
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Old 12-04-2009, 02:44 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertway View Post
I wouldn't say that dropping the cars are a safety issue, instead it is being aware of what is impacted when wider wheels, a dropped ride, or a combination of those two are implemented. The ebrake lines are "anchored" where they are from the factory base don clearances required at stock ride height with stock wheels widths and offsets. Adjust either of those things and the factory clearance of the ebrake lines are no longer valid and need to be checked and addressed if clearance is an issue. I know the first thing that came to my mind wasn't "I better check the ebrake line after I install my wheels" and it doesn't seem it was the OP'ers either but the good thing is he was able to quickly identify the issue, raise it in the community and a bunch of other folks are checking their setup to confirm or deny clearance issues.

I would agree that doing almost anything to a car that strays from the factory specs can be deemed a "safety issue" but I wouldn't use this ebrake issue to deter folks from lowering. There hasn't been anyone with stock wheels that has chimed in yet to mention a clearance issue once they dropped, it seems to be the combo of wider wheels and dropping.
All of this is good info which helped me out a lot. Just gotta be careful choosing wide wheels.
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Old 12-04-2009, 02:49 PM   #31
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Yea my zip ties are temp counter measure. I am going to the dealer tomorrow and try to do your idea. Did your dealer say anything about your car being lowered?

Quote:
Originally Posted by FEN View Post
Hey Guys,

The wheel offsets are perfect!! The Eiback & other suspension mods are also not the problem. Its a combination of factors that add up.....wheel width,suspension drop and how much slack was left in the EBrake cable from the factory.

Zip ties may work but i wanted a litlle more assurance.If you put your car in the air you can see all the clamps that Robertway spoke of(metal w/white bushing inside).You just need to start towards the front and begin sliding the cable forward until there is a good clearance at the wheel (aprox 1.5" on mine) then find a rubber fuel line with roughly the same ID as the OD of the EBrake cable.Cut a piece about 3/4" +/- long and slit it down one side.Then slide it over/around the cable just behind the white bushing/clamp (first bushing closest to wheel) and then install a small Stainless hose clamp and tighten that baby down.

My driver side cable was worn thru to the first layer of braided metal.We chose to use a hot glue to cover this small exposed area. The cable was still perfectly functional and this fix was just a preventative measure to stop corrosion,etc. So far my cables have not moved and all is good.

This is a very easy thing to overlook and im sure there are many more people that may have this problem (if they have lowered their car and installed wider wheels) and not even know it.It really shows its ugly face after the Ebrakes protective rubber coating is worn away and you make a few hard turns which allows the body to roll and thus allowing the cable to rub against the wheel....NOT a good sound....metal on metal.

BUT the good news is that this has a super easy and quick fix!!
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Old 12-04-2009, 03:37 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6liter View Post
Yea my zip ties are temp counter measure. I am going to the dealer tomorrow and try to do your idea. Did your dealer say anything about your car being lowered?
My dealer installed the Eibach springs. They have been great to work with. Seems like they are actually looking forward to see what i have them do next.

Its funny....I see many 2010 Camaros running around but NONE have anything done to them to set them apart from others.No mods at all. I did not want my car to blend in with the rest of the pack!! After i get a few more miles on the car and feel more comfortable with it not having any issues i will be installing a CAI and either SLP headers and full exhaust w/Loudmouth I or the Stainless Works headers and loudest setup they offer.Also thinking of a roots style blower.

Last edited by FEN; 12-04-2009 at 03:51 PM.
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Old 12-04-2009, 03:47 PM   #33
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My dealer installed the Eibach springs. They have been great to work with. Seems like they are actually looking forward to see what i have them do next.
I could use a good Chevy Dealer in Florida. Do you mind teling me who they are?
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Old 12-04-2009, 04:02 PM   #34
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I could use a good Chevy Dealer in Florida. Do you mind teling me who they are?
PM sent
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Old 12-04-2009, 04:06 PM   #35
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PM sent
Thank you very much!
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Old 12-05-2009, 03:09 AM   #36
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PM sent
which dealer are using? I will find out today how my dealer reacts to mods.
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Old 12-05-2009, 06:31 PM   #37
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Quote:
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Its funny....I see many 2010 Camaros running around but NONE have anything done to them to set them apart from others.No mods at all. I did not want my car to blend in with the rest of the pack!!
The LS steel wheels makes mine stand out in a crowd! OEM 5-spoke aluminum EVERYWHERE!!!!!!!
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Old 12-05-2009, 07:11 PM   #38
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Yea my zip ties are temp counter measure. I am going to the dealer tomorrow and try to do your idea. Did your dealer say anything about your car being lowered?
Hey,
How did everything go w/your dealer? Check your PM.
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Old 12-05-2009, 08:41 PM   #39
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I won't say there is a huge difference. They do feel sharper, a bit firmer. The reason I use SS lines is margin of safety under extreme load / use / abuse I heap on a car -- my best friends are my brakes. That little bit might be all I need. So SS lines are mandatory on all my cars.
so you do have the stainless steel lines on your car or you have the stock lines on still? any plans for other break upgrades or anything you see may need changed for better breaking? i saw a set of 09 cts-v rotors and calipers for sale very very cheap. i thought about using those as a "stock" upgrade".
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Old 12-06-2009, 12:06 PM   #40
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I am working on this right now, so i can fit a 12X20 rear is a lot of work , Re run the fuel line and brake lines.
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Old 12-07-2009, 10:51 AM   #41
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so you do have the stainless steel lines on your car or you have the stock lines on still? any plans for other break upgrades or anything you see may need changed for better breaking? i saw a set of 09 cts-v rotors and calipers for sale very very cheap. i thought about using those as a "stock" upgrade".
Yes, I always run SS lines on my personal cars, but I don't want to give people the impression that SS lines are a sensational brake upgrade. They are better than OEM, especially under extreme conditions.

That said, brakes on the SS are pretty darn good from the factory. The pads are ordinary. I run Cobalt Friction pads on my Camaro. They were a SENSATIONAL upgrade with the Pedders SS lines.
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Old 12-07-2009, 11:52 AM   #42
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i was thinking of going with hawk. ive heard alot of good things about them.
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Old 12-07-2009, 07:10 PM   #43
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i havent looked into the V, but would those brakes bolt up to the camaro???
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Old 12-07-2009, 07:16 PM   #44
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i was thinking of going with hawk. ive heard alot of good things about them.
They are good too.
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Old 12-07-2009, 08:17 PM   #45
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My dealer wouldnt touch my car for the ebrake line. They said they could help me with anything that was stock.
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Old 12-07-2009, 08:42 PM   #46
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My dealer wouldnt touch my car for the ebrake line. They said they could help me with anything that was stock.
I cant believe that certain dealers have that attitude. If you are paying them their hourly rate to service your car they shouldnt complain. I would try another dealer or just find a shop that has a lift.....only takes about 10-15 minutes to fix. I would imagine that your cables are still usable and will not need replaced.
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Old 12-08-2009, 07:39 AM   #47
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I cant believe that certain dealers have that attitude. If you are paying them their hourly rate to service your car they shouldnt complain. I would try another dealer or just find a shop that has a lift.....only takes about 10-15 minutes to fix. I would imagine that your cables are still usable and will not need replaced.
For now the zip ties are holding. So next week when I go to get the alignment again I will do your method of setting it up. I bought the clamps and hose from Autozone over the weekend.
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Old 12-08-2009, 09:21 AM   #48
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I am going to throw one more method out there. When my father and I had the car up on a lift installing the short throw shifter over the weekend, I pointed out to him the issue with the wheels and the ebrake line clearance. On both lines I had popped the inner most barrel out of its clip at which time the cable natural tension caused it to pop up over the clip and hold itself between the top of the clip and the underside of the car (don't know the actual term for the panel). The "released" barrels hold firmly in place but more importantly relieved a TON of tension off of the cable coming out of the outer barrel that you guys are doing your clamping on to the point that I went from about 3/4 inch clearance between line and inner tire/rim to about 1.5 inches. Keep in mind I have not dropped the car yet and will be looking for a 1.5-2 inch drop similar to 6liter so at that time I may have to look into clamping the line as you guys have mentioned but for now, relieving the tension by popping the inner barrel has. Now, I know some folks will say "that inner barrel and clip is there for a reason and GM wouldn't have put it there if it wasn't necessary", while I generally agree with this, Pop and I looked thoroughly at where the ebrake inner barrel was resting and only a handful of inches later it turns and heads toward the front of the car so there was little concern with not having the inner barrel in the clip.

Now, I could be driving along later this week and start to hear a grinding sound, then a crunching sound, and then my ebrake launches vertical and then gets sucked into the floor as I watch it shoot out the rear end of the car and embed itself in the front of the SmartCar that was desperately trying to catch up to me to show me a chalkboard the eco-marxist driver had written my estimated carbon footprint on, but if that happens I'll report back... and post LOTS of pictures of the incident
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Old 12-09-2009, 10:23 AM   #49
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When you are talking about safety, the wording is very important. It's one thing to say "modifier, beware". It's another thing altogether to say (or have incorrectly interpreted) there is something inherently wrong with the OEM setup.

I think it's great to warn people of what can happen when they modify their ride. Proceed with caution!
It also depends on what wheels you buy. CCW doesnt put a second valve hole, so there are no worries with their valve stem.
People need to research before they mod.
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Old 12-16-2009, 03:11 PM   #50
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My clearance was fine with Pfadt springs and widened stock wheels (10.75"). Thanks to Fen for pointing this potential problem out, though. I'd rather check it now than have a problem later on that could have been avoided.
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