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Old 08-25-2010, 11:12 PM   #26
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only to a point. if you continue to pull down your bass on the HU, eventually, there will be no low signal FOR the bass. Putting in bass blockers won't completely rid thd mids of bass...just take some out. But, what happens when you have the gain completely up at full volume, but there is a ton of distorted bass from the mids? You have to turn down the stereo bass and turn up the gain on teh subs.
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Old 09-06-2010, 02:33 PM   #27
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why not just turn the bass down on the head unit and turn the bass gain up on the amp powering the subs
edit: nevermind i read the thread !!!!!
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Last edited by SILVER BULLITT; 09-06-2010 at 02:35 PM. Reason: edit : nevermind i read the thread !!!
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Old 05-23-2011, 12:36 AM   #28
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Couple things to add from my beginning of this install:

Speakers say 4 ohms on the back of the tweeter to answer the question. The two are wired in parallel though, with the tweeter running a high pass filter on the + terminal. So I'm thinking these give the factory amp a 2 ohm nominal load. To be honest I didn't look at the factory mid before ditching it in the trash.

Second, piece of cake to modify this for 6.5" Hertz components.

For the tweeter, took the mount which looks like this -> --O-- and chopped to look like this -> -O The "-" part I dremeled down, and then cut about 1/4 around what SHOULD be the front of the mount, and then flipped it around. So with it backwards and cut, you can slide the tweeter in and then use the factory phillips screw to hold it in place.

For the mid, take a screw driver and pry between the front plate and adapter (front plate will be a polished plastic, adapter part is dull). It will pop out with a foam seal attached. Cut out the speaker. Use tin snips to make short work of all internal bracing for factory speaker. Then use a dremel to carefully take the bracing down until it's even with the inside of where the stock speakers cone used to wrap around the front (and then get held by the front ring you popped out first).

Using a C shaped file I niced it all up and then marked 4 holes. Pre-drilled speaker screw holes, and then carefully pulled the foam from the stock front ring. I used the foam to go between the mid's basket and the adapter.

Done!! (well, not really, then I spent about 2 hours analyzing and figuring out how i was going to get Dynomat on the inside of the door, to cover the inside of the exterior skin.).

Now that I've got most of this sorted, I'll post pics when I do the driver side (and start a new thread for any Hertz HSK 165 speaker installs.
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:59 PM   #29
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BA speaker wire codes

Hey group, finally found help. sourced from All Data
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Old 05-04-2012, 05:32 PM   #30
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Now...if I only knew how to read that!

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Old 05-20-2013, 07:23 PM   #31
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so on my 2013 ss ba stereo the left rear speakers has 2 blue with white tracer and the right has 2 light blue with black tracer. which ones do i use to splice into the rca cables ?????? i need to splice into the "high level speaker" for input. i need to splice into the left and the right. any ideas??

thx
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Old 06-14-2013, 01:46 AM   #32
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Anyone have the convertible BA schematics?
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