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Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing Discussions on mechanical maintenance and servicing of your Camaro

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Old 12-12-2009, 11:19 AM   #1
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Break-in Period

So we pick up our 2ss/rs rjt today at 3 pm from the dealership, woohoo! the salesman told me that i can't "get on it" for the first 1500 miles because there is a break-in period for the engine. can someone please explain the technical side to this for me? i have to wait 1500 miles to open it up? what happens if it is "gotten on" before the 1500 mile plateau? does this cause long term damage? any insight would be appreciated, thanks!
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Old 12-12-2009, 11:22 AM   #2
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Read the owner's manual if you want to know exactly what your dealer is talking about.

- Keep it under 100mph
- Keep it under 4k rpm
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Old 12-12-2009, 11:39 AM   #3
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Or you could go do this break-in procedure, which I'm going to do myself as soon as my car shows up in a few days.
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39955
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Old 12-12-2009, 11:41 AM   #4
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Hammer it, that is the best way to break it in.
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Old 12-12-2009, 11:52 AM   #5
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The 1500 mile break in is not the greatest way to break the engine in. You have to open it up, hard too, and a lot for your first 600 miles or so. The reason why is that the piston seals on a brand new engine aren't formed against the piston wall completely, and the only way to make them form against that wall, is to force them. If you don't, the seals won't expand correctly and will later on, let bad acids get through to the rest of your engine, therefore causing less power and reliability.
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Old 12-12-2009, 12:18 PM   #6
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Sounds like a lot of voodoo mythology to me.
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Old 12-12-2009, 12:44 PM   #7
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Apparently the current thinking is that you should "drive it like you stole it" to break it in.
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Old 12-12-2009, 12:49 PM   #8
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Everyone has their own opinion on this, lol. I don't know what to say OP, a couple guys I work with who where both full time mechanics (extreamly good ones) and now do part time stuff say to beat on it like there's no tomorrow. Another mechanic I know says to take it slow to allow everything to seat correctly.

Got me man .
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Old 12-12-2009, 01:05 PM   #9
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Question

Why on earth would GM recommend a reasonable break in period if they didn't think it was necessary??? I don't get why people think its best to ignore what the engine designers and engineers who built it recommend! Read and follow the owner's manual.

Do you think that GM wants to see its brand new cars spanked at the stop lights by the competition - huh? ORRRRRR maybe they want to see the engine last a couple of hundred thousand miles if its broken in the right way for a couple of hundred miles.

Someone, anyone please explain why? I'm not interested in hearing that specialty engine builders pound on their new engines WOT - we're talking here about GMs mass produced factory engines with a 100,000 mile warrantee....

(AND FYI - all tire manufacturers recommend a 500 mile break in period for new tires so the plys bed in correctly.)

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Last edited by KJS; 12-12-2009 at 01:51 PM.
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Old 12-12-2009, 01:46 PM   #10
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I have the 2SS/RS w/L99 A6. I asked my dealership about the breakin (service dept) and others there and their exact words were "drive it like you stole it......you will NOT hurt it."

I now have aprox. 500 miles on it and i took it easy for most of these miles but i have also went WOT with it many times. It runs GREAT.

I have seen many engine builders put freshly built engines on dynos and make five or six pulls at WOT up into the higher RPM range.

I cannot and will not tell you how to break in your motor but after i took it easy for a few hundred miles i am now driving it "normally"....sometimes at WOT. I am not constantly "ragging" on it but i do drive aggressively sometimes.
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Old 12-12-2009, 01:51 PM   #11
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Drive it like you stole it...BUT be sure to change your oil at 500 to 1000k. GM does not want a hard break in for liability reasons. You break in easy, less material from rings and bearings in oil. Hard break in seats rings better equals proven reliability and higher hp numbers.
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It's got a cop motor, a 440 cubic inch plant, it's got cop tires, cop suspension, cop shocks. It's a model made before catalytic converters so it'll run good on regular gas. What do you say, is it the new Bluesmobile or what?
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Old 12-12-2009, 01:52 PM   #12
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Fixxxer525 is right. Go to the thread he references and follow the procedures as Darin outlines. It's the best way to get every bit of hp out of the car. I am picking mine up in 1 hour and will find a nice long road to do the hard accelerations 6-8 times then put her up for the night and do it again tomorrow. Pay attention to the fuse pull reset thread and do it if you are unsure of the type of gas the dealer put in the car if they did at the dealership.
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Old 12-12-2009, 01:54 PM   #13
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Engineers don't write manuals; attorneys write them. Ask any engineer, including the ones on this forum, and they'll tell you to break it in hard bu t at your own risk.

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Old 12-12-2009, 02:02 PM   #14
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I will be doing my first oil change at 750miles and the next at 1500miles.Normal after that.
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Old 12-12-2009, 03:39 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by eynigush View Post
Engineers don't write manuals; attorneys write them. Ask any engineer, including the ones on this forum, and they'll tell you to break it in hard bu t at your own risk.

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THANK YOU Eddie!
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It's got a cop motor, a 440 cubic inch plant, it's got cop tires, cop suspension, cop shocks. It's a model made before catalytic converters so it'll run good on regular gas. What do you say, is it the new Bluesmobile or what?
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Old 12-12-2009, 03:41 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhyMe View Post
Fixxxer525 is right. Go to the thread he references and follow the procedures as Darin outlines. It's the best way to get every bit of hp out of the car. I am picking mine up in 1 hour and will find a nice long road to do the hard accelerations 6-8 times then put her up for the night and do it again tomorrow. Pay attention to the fuse pull reset thread and do it if you are unsure of the type of gas the dealer put in the car if they did at the dealership.
What Darin outlined is from a break in procedure made years ago carefully rewritten.

If anyone needs, I can dig up the source...from 1998-2000....
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It's got a cop motor, a 440 cubic inch plant, it's got cop tires, cop suspension, cop shocks. It's a model made before catalytic converters so it'll run good on regular gas. What do you say, is it the new Bluesmobile or what?
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Old 12-12-2009, 05:02 PM   #17
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i am a tech for a living and i say drive it like you stole it.
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Old 12-12-2009, 07:26 PM   #18
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You would be much better off following the manual than the "drive it like you stole it" idea. This crap of the rings will not seat if you do not hammer it is just that, crap. That is only done for race engines that need a quck break in and are then are rebuilt on a regular basis. Our engines are not built for the short term. I am not talking about driving like grandma on sunday, let the engine freely rev up and give it some gas. Just do not hammer it or rev it up past 4k. Think about it, what good will it do to rev it past 4k? There are alot of things that need to break in on modern vehicles. This ring sealing B.S. seems to pop up by some supposed race engine builders that are a dime a dozen on every forum I have been on. Don't fall for it. How many cars have any of you owned that have had ring sealing issues? How many have you ever heard of?
Now this does not come from my expert opinion, but from people in the industry, racing and repairing. My own experience and that of others also supports this. And, since GM is paying for my warranty if I should need it, I think I will follow their guidelines. I think they know what they are doing. After all, they built and designed the car.
Terry
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Old 12-12-2009, 10:02 PM   #19
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Have a feeling that GM would not put the 1500 mile break-in procdure in the owners manual if they did not believe it. This business of drive it like you stole it from the get go it pure bunk. Obviously it would be more fun to do that but fun is not a factor for engine break-in.
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Old 12-12-2009, 10:06 PM   #20
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Old 12-12-2009, 10:08 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrhavasu View Post
You would be much better off following the manual than the "drive it like you stole it" idea. This crap of the rings will not seat if you do not hammer it is just that, crap. That is only done for race engines that need a quck break in and are then are rebuilt on a regular basis. Our engines are not built for the short term. I am not talking about driving like grandma on sunday, let the engine freely rev up and give it some gas. Just do not hammer it or rev it up past 4k. Think about it, what good will it do to rev it past 4k? There are alot of things that need to break in on modern vehicles. This ring sealing B.S. seems to pop up by some supposed race engine builders that are a dime a dozen on every forum I have been on. Don't fall for it. How many cars have any of you owned that have had ring sealing issues? How many have you ever heard of?
Now this does not come from my expert opinion, but from people in the industry, racing and repairing. My own experience and that of others also supports this. And, since GM is paying for my warranty if I should need it, I think I will follow their guidelines. I think they know what they are doing. After all, they built and designed the car.
Terry
Yeah but they didn't write the manual. The lawyers did. Get a brain! The rings will seat no matter how you break it in but its how you break it in will determine how well the rings will seat. Use common sense... If you stay in the low RPM then the rings won't reach the top of the cylinders for a proper break in.
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Old 12-12-2009, 10:22 PM   #22
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Best advice is to ignore the manufacturer's recommendations, and go with contradictory BS on the internet.

After all, it isn't as if you're trusting GM to know enough about their own engines to build it correctly for you, or install it in the car correctly. I doubt they've ever run an engine long enough to worry about break in. In fact, I heard from a guy on a board somewhere that GM only leases cars because their own break in procedure keeps ruining engines that they should have beat the crap out of from day one.
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Old 12-12-2009, 10:29 PM   #23
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Best advice is to ignore the manufacturer's recommendations, and go with contradictory BS on the internet.

After all, it isn't as if you're trusting GM to know enough about their own engines to build it correctly for you, or install it in the car correctly. I doubt they've ever run an engine long enough to worry about break in. In fact, I heard from a guy on a board somewhere that GM only leases cars because their own break in procedure keeps ruining engines that they should have beat the crap out of from day one.
Wouldn't that be a thought that all of GM's past engine problems be linked to the break-in procedure. I wouldn't doubt it.
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Old 12-12-2009, 10:44 PM   #24
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Every one of the guys at my dealership told me (off the record of course) TO DRIVE IT!!! In fact, they said to drive it like you want it to drive!!!
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Old 12-12-2009, 11:18 PM   #25
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Yeah but they didn't write the manual. The lawyers did. Get a brain! The rings will seat no matter how you break it in but its how you break it in will determine how well the rings will seat. Use common sense... If you stay in the low RPM then the rings won't reach the top of the cylinders for a proper break in.
Brain says,,, you need to use yours. Rings will not reach the top of cylinders by not reving past 4k? When do I stop laughing, thats a good one. I guess these new tech crank rods need to strech a bit, is that it? Use common sense, it would be pretty tough to avoid seating the rings. Get off the ring thing, there is so much more to it.
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