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Old 12-19-2009, 06:59 PM   #1
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brake squeak help

My brakes are screeching, but it is only the last bit of a stop, or pulling into my garage. Any ideas?
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Old 12-19-2009, 07:16 PM   #2
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Working as intended.
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Old 12-19-2009, 07:37 PM   #3
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Yeah, I get a little bit when I slow to pull into my driveway. No big deal really. At least not at this point. I'm not worrying about it. Not for now anyway.
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Old 12-19-2009, 08:15 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spectrepig View Post
My brakes are screeching, but it is only the last bit of a stop, or pulling into my garage. Any ideas?
just spray your rotors with some wd40, lightly not to heavy..this should work the squeak out..you may have to do it a couple of times before the surface grinds out whatever is making them squeak...I did it myself after a break guy I know told me to try it and it worked wonderfully..
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Old 12-20-2009, 02:25 PM   #5
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Never use lubricant on your brakes.
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Old 12-20-2009, 03:44 PM   #6
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Thanks you are absolutely 110% right.Here is the fix.Take the rear pads off grind a chamfer on the leading and trailing edge then cut a groove across the pad in the middle.that would be across not lenghth ways that should fix it
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Old 12-20-2009, 06:17 PM   #7
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let's spray oil on the brakes...of course then you can't stop, but the squeek is gone!
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Old 12-20-2009, 06:26 PM   #8
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Old 12-20-2009, 06:57 PM   #9
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Why live with something that has a fix!! Come with solutions not just live with the problem!
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Old 12-21-2009, 07:23 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by promod55 View Post
Here is the fix.Take the rear pads off grind a chamfer on the leading and trailing edge then cut a groove across the pad in the middle.that would be across not lenghth ways that should fix it
I'd rather live with it than cut a chamfer in my pads...


or take it back to the dealer for the wheel fix...
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Old 12-21-2009, 01:23 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by spectrepig View Post
My brakes are screeching, but it is only the last bit of a stop, or pulling into my garage. Any ideas?
This is the hardest squeal to get rid of in a brake system with opposed-piston calipers (versus standard sliding calipers with rubber bushings). Here's what pros do -- some of which has been mentioned already:

1. Chamfer the leading edge of each pad at a 30° angle for about 1/3 of the pad depth. This will eliminate the vibration caused by an abrupt 90° edge being excited by the rotor.

2. Use a high-temperature brake lube, such as Permatex Ceramic Extreme brake parts lubricant (the purple stuff). The lower temperature stuff works for a while, but it dies off the first time you are out having a little fun. Smear a thin layer on the back plate where it contacts the caliper abutment surface and the pistons. Of course, do NOT get any on the friction material!

3. Once installed, re-bed the pads. This helps promote a smooth and even pad transfer layer on the rotor friction surface. Pads do not like rubbing up against naked iron. They prefer to rub against their own kind (sounds really bad, but that is just how they are!). To do this, go find a country road or industrial area on a Sunday. Do some .3-.4g slowdowns (light to moderate braking) from 45 to 25mph, 5x in a row. This will start to warm up the mating surfaces. Step up the speed to 65mph and brake to 35mph, harder for this round -- .6-.8g. This is harder than you would normally brake in stop and go traffic, but not so hard as to activate the ABS. Accelerate briskly between each brake application. You should start getting some "green fade" at this point if the pads are still fairly new. You will notice the pedal getting softer and brake distances getting longer. You might even start to smell the pads as the rubber content is being converted into carbon. If they haven't started fading yet, do a few more higher speed runs.

>> THIS IS KEY! << Once the pads are definitely fading, get off the brakes! Drive a mile or two without using them at all, if you can. DO NOT stop with your foot on the brake pedal until the rotors have cooled down or the pad might "print off" onto the friction surface. This is the leading cause of brake judder, often misdiagnosed as a "warped rotor". If cooled down properly, there will now be a smooth and even layer of pad material frozen to the rotor friction surface. It is normally a dark gray as opposed to the lighter metallic color of a bare iron rotor. You might even see small areas of golden or even slight bluish coloring on the edge of the rotor or near the hat or heat dam area. This is normal.

After they have cooled overnight, you will likely have a better performing brake system that makes less noise. However, the square-ish pads in the Brembo calipers are more prone to noise than with longer pads loaded in sliding caliper with soft rubber bushings to soak up the vibes. As a result, they may squeak from time to time no matter what you do.

4. Cleanliness seems to help. Pad dust buildup will promote noise, so keep those wheels and brakes clean.

5. Go out and use the brakes hard every once in a while. Slow speed rubbing eventually wears off the pad transfer layer. Take the car out and have some fun every now and then -- the brakes will be a lot happier.

Chris
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Old 12-21-2009, 02:54 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellyjrt View Post
just spray your rotors with some wd40, lightly not to heavy..this should work the squeak out..you may have to do it a couple of times before the surface grinds out whatever is making them squeak...I did it myself after a break guy I know told me to try it and it worked wonderfully..
Brake Pads + Rotors = Friction to Stop. Lubricant decreases or eliminates friction. Careful of the advise you give here. Some of us, including me, have limited car knowledge and someone may take this seriously and can end up in a serious accident, possibly injuring themselves and innocent by-standers.
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Old 12-25-2009, 09:57 AM   #13
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I've notice this sound too, is it supposed to be making this noise?
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Old 01-10-2010, 02:01 AM   #14
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I've got about 600 miles on my 2SS now and the breaks just started squealing -- always when I come to a complete stop. In fact, my wife knew I arrived home Friday night cuz she heard the car brakes squeal as I pulled into the garage. It sounds like the front driver's side pad. I had heard this was normal and will eventually go away, but it sounds like it's gotten a bit worse.
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Old 01-10-2010, 02:35 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_B View Post
This is the hardest squeal to get rid of in a brake system with opposed-piston calipers (versus standard sliding calipers with rubber bushings). Here's what pros do -- some of which has been mentioned already:

1. Chamfer the leading edge of each pad at a 30° angle for about 1/3 of the pad depth. This will eliminate the vibration caused by an abrupt 90° edge being excited by the rotor.

2. Use a high-temperature brake lube, such as Permatex Ceramic Extreme brake parts lubricant (the purple stuff). The lower temperature stuff works for a while, but it dies off the first time you are out having a little fun. Smear a thin layer on the back plate where it contacts the caliper abutment surface and the pistons. Of course, do NOT get any on the friction material!

3. Once installed, re-bed the pads. This helps promote a smooth and even pad transfer layer on the rotor friction surface. Pads do not like rubbing up against naked iron. They prefer to rub against their own kind (sounds really bad, but that is just how they are!). To do this, go find a country road or industrial area on a Sunday. Do some .3-.4g slowdowns (light to moderate braking) from 45 to 25mph, 5x in a row. This will start to warm up the mating surfaces. Step up the speed to 65mph and brake to 35mph, harder for this round -- .6-.8g. This is harder than you would normally brake in stop and go traffic, but not so hard as to activate the ABS. Accelerate briskly between each brake application. You should start getting some "green fade" at this point if the pads are still fairly new. You will notice the pedal getting softer and brake distances getting longer. You might even start to smell the pads as the rubber content is being converted into carbon. If they haven't started fading yet, do a few more higher speed runs.

>> THIS IS KEY! << Once the pads are definitely fading, get off the brakes! Drive a mile or two without using them at all, if you can. DO NOT stop with your foot on the brake pedal until the rotors have cooled down or the pad might "print off" onto the friction surface. This is the leading cause of brake judder, often misdiagnosed as a "warped rotor". If cooled down properly, there will now be a smooth and even layer of pad material frozen to the rotor friction surface. It is normally a dark gray as opposed to the lighter metallic color of a bare iron rotor. You might even see small areas of golden or even slight bluish coloring on the edge of the rotor or near the hat or heat dam area. This is normal.

After they have cooled overnight, you will likely have a better performing brake system that makes less noise. However, the square-ish pads in the Brembo calipers are more prone to noise than with longer pads loaded in sliding caliper with soft rubber bushings to soak up the vibes. As a result, they may squeak from time to time no matter what you do.

4. Cleanliness seems to help. Pad dust buildup will promote noise, so keep those wheels and brakes clean.

5. Go out and use the brakes hard every once in a while. Slow speed rubbing eventually wears off the pad transfer layer. Take the car out and have some fun every now and then -- the brakes will be a lot happier.

Chris
This is great advice. Especially #2 above. Our brakes don't come from the factory with this lube on the back side of the pads. They are dry. Just this lube helps alot.

The pads are very easy to pull off, you don't have to remove the callipers. Just use a 1/8 inch pin punch and push out the 2 pins from the outside of the calipers and then the pads slip out from the outer edge of the caliper. Then just tap the pins back in from the back side of the calipers. Refer to pic below for pin locations.
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Last edited by mtcwby; 01-10-2010 at 02:53 AM.
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Old 01-10-2010, 02:25 PM   #16
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The brakes come with a chamfer already.But you can put disc brake quiet on the metal side of pads.
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Old 01-10-2010, 03:12 PM   #17
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WHY WOULD ANYONE WHO KNOWS ANYTHING ABOUT BRAKES PUT OIL ON THEM.
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Old 01-10-2010, 03:58 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Camaro_h View Post
A little spray of WD40 will be just fine.
Brakes work by friction. WD40 uses mineral oil, mineral oil reduces friction.

NO brake manufacturer, Or D.O.T. would verify your advice. Some mechanics would, these are the same mechanics that I wouldn't let near my car with a tire gauge, much less a wrench.
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Old 01-10-2010, 04:59 PM   #19
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DO NOT LISTEN TO THE PEOPLE TELLING YOU TO USE WD40.
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Old 01-11-2010, 05:46 AM   #20
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TRUE, do not use WD40, best product to use is: "AC Delco" Brake Cleaner.
It will dissolve and remove brake dust, grease and other contaminants from the brake parts.

Just spray on brake parts and leave to run off, then air-dry or whipe it with a lint-free cloth.

Case Closed.
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