|07-09-2013, 01:32 AM||#1|
DIY OEM GFX Install V6 (front splitter only)
***Might try to get a few more descriptive pics but I hope this helps***
So, I looked long and hard to see if I could find a DIY for this but found nothing. The GM instructions, while a bit vague, are actually not too hard to follow, but of course who doesn't appreciate more pictures! Hopefully this will dissuade some of your fears as to how hard this actually is. Of course, you DO have to drill holes in your fascia, so be aware. I wasn't too concerned since driving the amount that I do everyday, my front fascia is already a bit "weathered". Really wish I had gone for the clear bra!
The GM instructions tell you to start with a nice clean, damage free fascia... Well mine isn't damage free, but it's clean!
Start by gathering tools:
Flat tip screwdriver
*Rivet gun (needs to do 1/4" rivets)
3/16" and 1/4" drill bits
GM install kit and instructions
**8+ 3/16" aluminum rivets (if rivet gun can't do 1/4")
***8+ 3/16" aluminum rivet washers
Drill hole saw *cringe*
Socket/ratchet (3/8" is what my bolts were)
Link to GM instructions is at the bottom of the post. Pages 13, 14, 15 deal with the V-6 splitter. My intent is that you would follow them, using this as a supplement as I maybe am less descriptive than I could be. There are two large crosshairs that the GM instructions tell you to cut fairly large holes here, most likely for drainage.
I put mine up on a jackstand, but ramps are fine if you got'em.
Tape the "clamp" (let's call it what it really is GM, a bracket) onto the fascia. The longer tabs face up and you use them to locate the bracket and get it spaced correctly on there. Just make sure you center it, and work the left side, then the right. Hold the tabs against the fascia and just move them until you feel it kind of settle in where it needs to be. The right side has an interlocking tab, once the left one is taped up right, do the left.
Making absolutely sure not to shift the brackets around drill (I know, ) the 9 holes using the bracket as a template. These are 3/16" holes and the aluminum rivets that came with the kit. Here we are, all holes drilled and rivets attached. Break off all of those little locating tabs and remove the tape.
The bracket that you just installed forms a little lip that the GFX splitter is going to tuck into. All along the bracket are little tabs and onthe inside edge there are little "teeth" that will grab the holes you can see on the splitter.
Inside the wheel well, remove the little plastic "screw" and "nut" in this hole. The GFX kit comes with 2 U-nuts and 2 bolts here. They are metric, but one of my U-nuts had been lost so I had to replace them with 1/4"-20 U-nuts from Autozone.
This next part is probably where you'll want some help, although I managed it myself ok. You'll need to get the rear corners of the splitter around the fender while trying to basically hang the splitter from the brackets you just riveted up. That's why 2 people might be a good idea.
Now you'll need to grab these little tape leader tabs and have them out front. The GM instructions tell you to tape them to the outside of the splitter prior to putting it up onto the fascia. Doesn't really matter, there's plenty of room to get them to the outside. Also, the GM kit comes with a couple alcohol wipes and the instructions tell you to clean off the lower corner of the fascia on each side. I washed the car and then waited to see where the tape would stick and cleaned that area really well.
The next part is really the only place I experienced any trouble. You''l peel the tape tabs off and stick the two little patches of tape to the bumper. I don't know if I didn't clean the bumper off well enough or if the tape was getting a bit old or what exactly, but mine stuck at first but kept wanting to unstick themselves. I eventually stuck some of my nuclear-grade red tape to the splitter and the fascia, basically holding the splitter up and against the fascia.
Now, back under the front of the car. there are a bunch of little crosshairs placed conveniently inside of grooves on the underside of the splitter. The instructions tell you to drill 1/4" holes as the plastic rivets are 1/4". I found that my rivet gun would do 3/16" and no larger. I'm not sure what GM's reasoning was for the plastic rivets, cost maybe, but I just went with 3/16" holes and 3/16" aluminum rivets, 8 of them. I also used rivet washers to make sure the rivet wouldn't pull through the fascia (you're riveting the splitter right to the fascia). You can reach the underside of the fascia where the rivets come up pretty easily to install the washers.
Now the only thing left is just to re-install the bolt inside the wheel well, basically it goes from the top into the U-nut on the splitter sandwiching the wheel well liner in between. Take the car off the ramps/jackstands and admire!
Last edited by terry_b; 07-09-2013 at 08:29 PM.
|12-05-2013, 03:53 PM||#3|
Tampa Bay Camaros
Drives: Rally Yellow 2011
Join Date: Apr 2011
Nice write up.
What's the part number for JUST the front GM GFX and mounting hardware? I've found several knock-off's but they just mount with double sided tape and a couple of screws.
|05-03-2015, 09:50 AM||#7|
Join Date: Jul 2013
"There are two large crosshairs that the GM instructions tell you to cut fairly large holes here, most likely for drainage"
The holes are so you can remove the bolts on the bottom of the bumper just in case you need to remove the bumper.
I just did this install with the instructions and the pics here. Thanks for making the post. It made the install a lot easier. I took pics of each step as I went.
|05-03-2015, 11:52 AM||#8|
Glad to help! Definitely post up your pics, add any info that may have been lacking in mine.
I have a feeling as the 6th gen comes out, 5th gen Camaros will find second or third owners and they will get the mod bug just as bad!
|05-04-2015, 02:27 PM||#9|
Join Date: Jul 2013
Thanks again for the writeup. It was very helpful.
Here are my pics from the install. I will label them with the step for reference.
You drill the holes in the splitter to allow a socket entry. 2 bolts on the bottom of the bumper have to be removed to remove the bumper. (Just in case it ever needs removed)
You a lot of tape. You don't want it to move. It is worth noting that as long as the bracket is not crooked you will be fine. If its a little off center it will not make it fit on the bumper incorrectly. Just be sure its taped down and won't move for the next step.
There are holes in the bracket, you simply use them as a guide to drill into the bumper. Do not skip ahead. Drill all of the holes before you proceed.
Use the provided aluminum rivets to secure the bracket to the bumper.
Remove the tape when all rivets are installed.
Install the splitter onto the bumper.
Be aware, it will "pop" into place. It does not just slide onto the bracket. (I thought I broke something when it popped into place.)
Also, take your time at this step and make sure the splitter is centered and level. Make sure it is not stuck on the bottom corners of the air dam on both sides.
Remove the vinyl tabs to allow the 3M tape to secure.
Do not use too much pressure. Only 15 pounds is needed or you will stretch the adhesive and it will not bond.
Drill in the bottom rivet holes.
Install the rivets. I used the alternative rivets listed above from the OP. They worked awesome.
Thats it. Your done
|05-09-2015, 09:15 PM||#11|
I really like your stripes too!
|diy, gfx, splitter install|