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Old 10-30-2010, 06:44 PM   #281
scrming
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Originally Posted by Toyaholic View Post
Yikes! With a V6?? Sucks it was a redlight, but otherwise a great run.
No red light... R/T was .130. Red light would have been a negative number like -.130..
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Old 10-31-2010, 02:35 AM   #282
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Tires used on the pass: Stock 20" pirelli
Performance Mods (if any): Airaid V2 CAI, MRT V1, SS mid pipes, ARH LT headers and Cats, Trifecta tune
Category submitted for: Bolt ons
R/T............ .1395
60'............. 2.1714
330'........... 6.0238
660'........... 9.1758
660’ mph..... 77.60
1000'.......... 11.8984
1320'.......... 14.1938
1320’ mph…. 98.88
Name of the track: Lone Star Raceway Park
Date of pass: 10/30/10
Weather conditions: (include Density Altitude, if known):
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Old 10-31-2010, 08:17 AM   #283
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[QUOTE=BaylorAirForce;2500350]
1320'.......... 14.1938
1320’ mph…. 98.88

NIce run. Howd Doc do?
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Old 10-31-2010, 08:53 AM   #284
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Hold your horses there ROD I got to wake up still, lol!


Xanthos - this is a new best for me, so that measly 14.0444 is out by 36/10,000 of a sec

I have to figure out what is going on with my runs. My run of the 14.0444 had a better 60' w/ a slower mph and now this is a worse 60' w/ a faster mph

Tires used on the pass: Yokohama prada spec x
Performance Mods (if any): Airaid V2 CAI, MRT V2, ARH LTs, Trifecta tune
Category submitted for: Bolt ons
R/T............ .5886
60'............. 2.1788
330'........... 5.9654
660'........... 9.0720
660’ mph..... 78.99
1000'.......... 11.7643
1320'.......... 14.0408
1320’ mph…. 99.32
Name of the track: Lone Star Raceway Park
Date of pass: 10/30/10
Weather conditions: (include Density Altitude, if known): 391
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Old 10-31-2010, 09:02 AM   #285
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Nice runs, guys!

Looks like the temps dropped a bit between Baylor's run and Devil's... As Devil posted his DA was around 391, while Baylor's was probably more like 650 to 700...
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Old 10-31-2010, 09:04 AM   #286
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Scrming, thanks man! What do you think I can do to help my 60' times other than tires? I'm leaving off the line with 1200rpm.
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Old 10-31-2010, 09:18 AM   #287
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Originally Posted by devildoc View Post
Scrming, thanks man! What do you think I can do to help my 60' times other than tires? I'm leaving off the line with 1200rpm.
Have you tried leaving at a lower RPM? I get my best 60' leaving slightly off of idle. I mean I give it the slightly amount of gas...

Do you give you car a good cool down? And where you are at can you hot lap the car? Can you make a run and then immediately get right backup up to the starting line with out a lot of sitting in the staging lanes? A lot of times my "hot lap" is slightly better than my cold run.

I don't know much about your tires... do they seem to be hooking ok? And spin you can detect?

Also, what PSI are you running your front tires at? I would running them way up like 45 to 48 PSI...
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Old 10-31-2010, 09:27 AM   #288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devildoc View Post
Scrming, thanks man! What do you think I can do to help my 60' times other than tires? I'm leaving off the line with 1200rpm.
Nice run, Doc, you too, BAF.
Have you tried trailing arms? Rod told me those, and I picked up a set of Spohn. Traction issues aren't going to be any different between us and the SS(there's should be more pronounced), so look at some of the things they're doing.
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Old 10-31-2010, 09:33 AM   #289
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Originally Posted by scrming View Post
Have you tried leaving at a lower RPM? I get my best 60' leaving slightly off of idle. I mean I give it the slightly amount of gas...

Do you give you car a good cool down? And where you are at can you hot lap the car? Can you make a run and then immediately get right backup up to the starting line with out a lot of sitting in the staging lanes? A lot of times my "hot lap" is slightly better than my cold run.

I don't know much about your tires... do they seem to be hooking ok? And spin you can detect?

Also, what PSI are you running your front tires at? I would running them way up like 45 to 48 PSI...
I havent tried leaving at a lower rpm other than no gas at all. I will try a slight amount of gas next time.

I do give the car a good amount of cool down, I try to get 2 - 3 laps in before I cool down the car, I monitor the IAT & ECT during the laps.

Tires are hooking ok, but they are getting some traction issues right off the line, as in the squeal just slighty, then catch and go. I lower the rears to about 30psi and then the fronts are around 37psi or so.
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Old 10-31-2010, 09:35 AM   #290
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Originally Posted by usa1camaro1969 View Post
Nice run, Doc, you too, BAF.
Have you tried trailing arms? Rod told me those, and I picked up a set of Spohn. Traction issues aren't going to be any different between us and the SS(there's should be more pronounced), so look at some of the things they're doing.
Nope haven't tried trailing arms yet. I was thinking about those and bushings.

Last night one of my runs was against a stock LS3 and he had changed the tires to the Invo's and he ran a 13.1, though he said the night before he ran a 12.9 stock.
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Old 10-31-2010, 10:59 AM   #291
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Originally Posted by scrming View Post
No red light... R/T was .130. Red light would have been a negative number like -.130..
Actually a perfect light is .500, unless you run a pro tree. That was my understanding.

From staginglight.com......

If the driver reacts the very instant he sees the green light, what will his reaction time be? The green light comes on at .500 seconds on the reaction timer, so we have:
Green Light: .500
DRT: .210
+ VRT: .320
------------------
1.030
The best reaction time our driver will get is over a second! This will certainly put him on the trailer early. Let's use a different light as a signal. The next logical choice is to use the third amber.
Amber III: .000
DRT: .210
+ VRT: .320
-------------------
.530
Hey, that's a pretty good reaction time... but how do you get a quicker reaction time, or even a red-light? We have been assuming that our minds filter out other signals. If there were only one amber, with no previous signals, a .530 light would indeed be the best our driver could get. That isn't all he sees, though. He also sees the first and second amber, which makes (or allows) us to anticipate the third light, whether we realize it or not. I am lucky in that my mind seems to assimilate the first two lights in such a way that I anticipate the third bulb by .01-.03 seconds faster! This allows me to hit fairly consistent .5-oh and .5-teen lights. A little more talent, perception, and/or tuning of the car may be needed to change the VRT and DRT for drivers that react differently, or for faster or slower cars, etc.
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Old 10-31-2010, 11:08 AM   #292
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wtg Devildoc, you have a sweet V6. My best time of the night from the same event is below:

Model: 2LT RS M6
Tires used on the pass: Stock (20")
Performance Mods (if any): Injen intake
Category submitted for: bolt on's
R/T.......... 0.4075
60'........... 2.0766
330'...........6.0095
660'...........9.2828
660’ mph... 74.31
1000'..........12.1247
1320'..........14.5017
1320’ mph… 95.44
Name of the track: Lonestar Motorsports Park, Sealy TX
Date of pass: 10/30/10
Weather conditions: (include Density Altitude, if known): 391 ? I just copied Devildocs who was at the same event, not sure where to find this.

Time is on the right:

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Old 10-31-2010, 11:38 AM   #293
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Depends on the track. Local tracks here run their sportsman tree with a. 000 index so. 000 is a perfect light.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Toyaholic View Post
Actually a perfect light is .500, unless you run a pro tree. That was my understanding.

From staginglight.com......

If the driver reacts the very instant he sees the green light, what will his reaction time be? The green light comes on at .500 seconds on the reaction timer, so we have:
Green Light: .500
DRT: .210
+ VRT: .320
------------------
1.030
The best reaction time our driver will get is over a second! This will certainly put him on the trailer early. Let's use a different light as a signal. The next logical choice is to use the third amber.
Amber III: .000
DRT: .210
+ VRT: .320
-------------------
.530
Hey, that's a pretty good reaction time... but how do you get a quicker reaction time, or even a red-light? We have been assuming that our minds filter out other signals. If there were only one amber, with no previous signals, a .530 light would indeed be the best our driver could get. That isn't all he sees, though. He also sees the first and second amber, which makes (or allows) us to anticipate the third light, whether we realize it or not. I am lucky in that my mind seems to assimilate the first two lights in such a way that I anticipate the third bulb by .01-.03 seconds faster! This allows me to hit fairly consistent .5-oh and .5-teen lights. A little more talent, perception, and/or tuning of the car may be needed to change the VRT and DRT for drivers that react differently, or for faster or slower cars, etc.
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Old 10-31-2010, 12:07 PM   #294
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scrming View Post
Depends on the track. Local tracks here run their sportsman tree with a. 000 index so. 000 is a perfect light.
Did some more checking and alot of the tracks are indexing to 0. Crap! Gotta check on the tracks I've been running. I thought I was getting some good RT's and it could be way off. Hmmmmm...

Write this one off to an old dog and new tricks.
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