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Old 01-19-2010, 10:02 AM   #26
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That would be ausome if you could design this for my automatic...
http://www.edmunds.com/media/il/feat...hifter.500.jpg
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Old 01-19-2010, 11:33 AM   #27
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Honestly trying to help - not to be a wet blanket here...

1) The structural "contribution" of the shield is realized when bolted in place, so while it seems flimsy when removed from the vehicle, it does quite a bit when installed.

2) If greater durability/longevity is needed (because someone is driving their vehicle under aggressive circumstances) then maybe having a stiffer brace would be of benefit as part of an overall structural package. Signs of "more" being needed would be an observation of a buckled brace due to permanent deformation - or elongated attachment holes at the bolts. If anyone has observed this on an OEM brace, it would be good to know what the driving conditions have been and it would justify the need for "more beef".

3) The bolts are receiving higher than normal bending forces when installed using a spacer, as shown. Higher grade bolts may be needed.

4) Aluminum doesn't hold up to fatigue as well as steel does - so the design, as shown, may need some additional features to alleviate stress concentrations. Larger radii in the "cut outs", for one.

5) The design should directly strap the front bolts to the rear bolts on the opposing side as well as straight across to prevent "matchboxing". Think of a frame with an "X" pattern lined up with the bolts.

6) A gasket should be used to isolate the aluminum from the steel underbody (and fasteners) to prevent galvanic corrosion.

The spacers certainly do the trick and this definitely looks better than stock.
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Old 01-19-2010, 12:20 PM   #28
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Thanks for all the positive feedback everyone. Maybe this weekend I'll look at tweeking my design a little bit with an X brace pocket. Considering doing a run of about 30-50 pieces and sell em.
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Old 01-19-2010, 02:05 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Easy Go View Post
Honestly trying to help - not to be a wet blanket here...

1) The structural "contribution" of the shield is realized when bolted in place, so while it seems flimsy when removed from the vehicle, it does quite a bit when installed.

2) If greater durability/longevity is needed (because someone is driving their vehicle under aggressive circumstances) then maybe having a stiffer brace would be of benefit as part of an overall structural package. Signs of "more" being needed would be an observation of a buckled brace due to permanent deformation - or elongated attachment holes at the bolts. If anyone has observed this on an OEM brace, it would be good to know what the driving conditions have been and it would justify the need for "more beef".

3) The bolts are receiving higher than normal bending forces when installed using a spacer, as shown. Higher grade bolts may be needed.

4) Aluminum doesn't hold up to fatigue as well as steel does - so the design, as shown, may need some additional features to alleviate stress concentrations. Larger radii in the "cut outs", for one.

5) The design should directly strap the front bolts to the rear bolts on the opposing side as well as straight across to prevent "matchboxing". Think of a frame with an "X" pattern lined up with the bolts.

6) A gasket should be used to isolate the aluminum from the steel underbody (and fasteners) to prevent galvanic corrosion.

The spacers certainly do the trick and this definitely looks better than stock.


Daaaaamn...check out the brain on Easy Go!
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Old 01-19-2010, 03:14 PM   #30
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Daaaaamn...check out the brain on Easy Go!
Actually some aluminum has a higher tensile, yield, hardness and shear than most carbon steels.

And I was going to anodize them. Which would resist corrosion far longer than the stock painted steel one.

And as stated in the OP, my main reason for making this was to clear the exhaust tubes. I realize that my design may not be perfect to the chassis specialist. But hey, this is my prototype!
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Old 01-19-2010, 04:55 PM   #31
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I realize that my design may not be perfect to some self claimed engineers or chassis know-it-alls.. But hey, this is my prototype. Try to go find a one-off part that fits and looks this good elsewhere.
You're... welcome?...

By all means, please feel free to ignore my engineering assessment and iterate your design via customer feedback. You didn't ask for it and I didn't charge you for it.

Good luck with it. I hope it makes you a fortune.
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Old 01-19-2010, 06:45 PM   #32
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You're... welcome?...

By all means, please feel free to ignore my engineering assessment and iterate your design via customer feedback. You didn't ask for it and I didn't charge you for it.

Good luck with it. I hope it makes you a fortune.
Designers dream of what they need. Engineers draw what they need. Machinists build what they need. Its one thing to sit at a computer and draw parts and assemblies and say they'll work and its another to build them and actually make them work. And make a fortune???!!! I never for one second thought "hey I'm gunna sell these for outragous prices to people." I needed the part for myself so I made it. I only posted it up here to just show people what I made. Only when people said they wanted one did I think, hey, this might be a good part I can sell for FAR cheaper than a suspension company can. That's it.

Not ignoring your assessment. I agreed with you on the fact of doing and X-brace shape with the pockets. Just didn't feel like programming it since I was doing this at 9:00 on friday night.

I don't, however, agree on the justification for the NEED of more "beef." If this was the case, then nobody would upgrade their cars. Sure, you may not need more rigidity right there on the tunnel, but it still can't hurt. Obviously, I have not done extensive research and testing to base my design off of. Simply got bored and made a part. All I know, is if something appears to be a weakpoint, replace it with something better. I thought thats what all these forums and aftermarket is about... putting stuff on our cars that we don't neccessarily need, but is COOOL!
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Old 01-19-2010, 07:54 PM   #33
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Honestly trying to help...
That's all.
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Old 01-19-2010, 08:15 PM   #34
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That's all.
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Old 01-21-2010, 10:17 AM   #35
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Looks like I'm going to try and make a run of 10 pieces soon. Who's interested?

I tweeked my design to have thicker walls between the pockets and it's also a 1 piece design rather than 3 piece.
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Old 01-21-2010, 10:55 AM   #36
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Don't be too rough on Easy Go, he has some valid points. 2 heads are better than 1
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Old 01-21-2010, 07:31 PM   #37
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Nice piece!
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Old 01-21-2010, 08:01 PM   #38
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I'd be interested.

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Old 01-21-2010, 08:25 PM   #39
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where can i get one
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Old 01-21-2010, 08:31 PM   #40
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I'd be interested. I am having the exact same problem clearing my 3" flowmaster catback.
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Old 01-21-2010, 08:34 PM   #41
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Dan at Clear image automotive.com in Kent, Washington made this for my car which I think he is charging 80.00 plus shipping cost:
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Old 01-21-2010, 09:12 PM   #42
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Very interested.

Have a idea on the price yet?
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Old 01-21-2010, 09:13 PM   #43
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Dan at Clear image automotive.com in Kent, Washington made this for my car which I think he is charging 80.00 plus shipping cost:
Looks, uhh, nice.
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Old 01-21-2010, 09:34 PM   #44
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I'd be interested too. Let me know when you decide on a price.
Thanks
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Old 01-21-2010, 09:35 PM   #45
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Great job!! And it looks strong & functional, compared to that stock, thin junk...
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Old 01-21-2010, 09:37 PM   #46
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well...I'm on the same school of thought as Easy GO. That piece looks awesome. What I did on mine since my pipes rubbed after the xpipe and straight pipe install, I had a set of 5/8" steel rectangle spacers made and then put a piece of shallow C-Channel welded across the brace. There is no twist...I also upgraded bolts a grade and because I used spacers the same size as the stock brace, you have a continuous attachment point.
IMO...it's under the car...don't over think it. I've got $20 in mine...all this was done to my stocker.
FYI....I drove mine with the brace off for two weeks...couldn't tell much difference except at a real hard drop-pedal take off. Also, you could feel a hint of driveshaft vibration above 5Krpm. Brace in...everything went back to normal or better.
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Old 01-21-2010, 09:41 PM   #47
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im in, please keep us posted
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Old 01-21-2010, 09:43 PM   #48
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Yeah but even the underbody needs some love too right. Overkill is my middle name... at least when it comes to machining things for myself. Its just nice after months and months of making other people's parts to cut loose and make something for yourself and go for total overkill ya know!!
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Old 01-21-2010, 09:47 PM   #49
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I have 3 inch exhaust upgrade on my 2010 and it doesn't hit at all.



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Looks, uhh, nice.
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Old 01-21-2010, 09:58 PM   #50
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I'll keep you guys updated who are subscribing. Hoping to have enough free time this weekend to cut my better design. Made the walls a little thicker for more strength.

As it sits right now, the price would be 195.00 each.

If I go to more complex of pockets and other features, $ would go up. This is w/o plating... to keep cost down. 6061 resists corrosion far better than 2024 and 7075. However, if everyone wanted it anodized, I'd raise the $ accordingly and do it.
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