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Old 01-20-2010, 09:17 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 55Designs View Post
Aaron can you tell me what benefits we can see from this? Would you only suggest this for very high horespower cars?

Curious to hear what these do and if they make a noticeable driving change.

We have Darrells Diff sitting on the work bench awaiting Richmonds install kit. If this is going to be a Noticeable difference, Ill suggest these to him. Plus he will save some coin since we already have the diff out.
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Old 01-21-2010, 12:20 AM   #16
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Can't speak for Aaron, but I believe Pedders was recomending bushings be solid poly bushings above 500 RWHP. I was able to easily twist differential around by hand with stock bushings in place which all adds to wheel hop. Can't imagine what 580 RWHP would do... wouldn't be pretty & probably costly. I know one guy ripped his gas tanks up bad - cradle supposedly has to be dropped to replace the tank too. Pfadt's looks like a better design IMO, unless your partial to red bushings.
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Old 01-21-2010, 03:10 AM   #17
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Great job on this writeup!. However, your 8-10 hours is a little much. Doing the bushings for us and a Pedders dealer is a hour job. I have done quite a bit of them and 1 hour is plenty of time. We do not remove the diff from the subframe. We have developed a puller set. We use a 1/2 inch acme thread, which requires drilling out the center mounting hole just a little. We have a matching sized push plate and a reciever that the bushing will go into. Here is a link that shows you how to do it.


The diff mount bushings are critical bushings to help transfer torque more efficiently.

Now the link also shows an experimental process I did eliminating the engineered voids and it works. With our testing, we have found using bushings with engineered voids will put less shock on the diff and works well up to about 450hp at the ground. But guys running high hp, especially with drag radials, the diff needs far more support. So we have a harder dura, solid bushing that is good to over 900hp.

Aaron, if you would like info on this tool, just email me.


This was not meant to hijack this thread by no means. Aaron if it is, just email me and I will delete it.

thanks
mike
dms

Last edited by Info@PeddersUSA.com; 01-21-2010 at 03:26 AM.
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Old 01-21-2010, 07:03 AM   #18
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Mike, I think any info that makes this an easier job is good info.... But I'm not the OP. His call.

Can the tool be used for cradle bushings also?
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Old 01-21-2010, 08:58 AM   #19
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Nice write up Garth, and Im glad to hear the feedback!

Mike, we have a made an inhouse tool similar to what your describing to install the bushings in a more efficent manner. But this method works the same, just takes more time. Fortunatly there are 15 different ways to accomplish this install, and they are all correct, because in the end your have improved your Camaro with quality Pfadt bushings, and junked the stock rubber.

Again nice write up Garth I look forward to more feedback once I get you your coilovers, and control arm bushings!

Regards
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Old 01-21-2010, 09:11 AM   #20
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this sounds easy loll
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Old 01-21-2010, 09:23 AM   #21
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I had actually started this whole process by making a replica of this removal tool. MTCWBY found it in the G8 forums. The link Mike has was my printed intructions exactly..... states 2-3 hours for replacement and originated from the G8 forums. My estimated time and his in the instructions would be a "first timer" install..... professionals much quicker than mine on jack stands and me trying to keep the new floor in good condition. I determined the front 2 bushings couldn't be done this way and figured the G8 must be a slightly different case. The case casting is definitely different in the Camaro vs the tool intructions. Also the instructions have a picture of the rear bushing with the tool attached, which would be the easiest removal. This tool idea seemed great, just didn't work out. Maybe someone else will have a better solution.

Pictures give more info and shows the larger flanged side that has to be pulled out.
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Last edited by Blue70SS; 01-21-2010 at 10:43 AM.
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Old 01-21-2010, 09:37 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffny09 View Post
this sounds easy loll
That's actually what I thought too - while I was making my tool to save a few bucks!
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839 RWHP 864 TQ 91oct,TVS2300 10/14 OD 2.75/NW 102mm,RDS/N20/LPE NCC
NLP spoiler/GM splitter/Torq HE-fans/oil coolers/IC1000cc
Squash twins,GT9,Coil Covers,Mats,Pedals/ADM Gauges,Race Scoop/Trunions
DDS CVs,Carbon F DS/RPM L6/LPE 9.5 3.73/Pedders HD bushes,align kit
RB 2-piece rotors,S/S Lines,Hawk HPE Pads/Forgeline SP3P/Weld RTS
Ceramic ARH 2" LT/3" X-pipe,Corsa Touring/BMR TA,Toe,LCA,DS Loop
StreetSlayer BC3/MTI Shifter-Trans mt/Hotchkis CB/Monster CC/SJM LineLock
PFADT Coil Overs,Sways,Links,Mounts,SF Bushes,Camber Kit

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Old 01-21-2010, 09:54 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 55designs
Looks like a bitch of an install.

Aaron can you tell me what benefits we can see from this? Would you only suggest this for very high horespower cars?

Curious to hear what these do and if they make a noticeable driving change.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Qwkss View Post

We have Darrells Diff sitting on the work bench awaiting Richmonds install kit. If this is going to be a Noticeable difference, Ill suggest these to him. Plus he will save some coin since we already have the diff out.
These are definitely a benefit for the higher HP cars, but they have benefits for any car that is being launched hard. As others have pointed out, the stock mounts are very soft. This modification will keep away some of the dreaded 'wheel hop' which tears pieces up in the drivetrain.

The interesting thing, is that there is almost no noticeable effects while driving. There is no noise or vibration, everything is just held tighter and more happy.

These are an involved install, so if you have limited experience, I suggest taking this project to a shop. There are some specialized tools required and general heavy lifting.

Like I mentioned, I'm working up some video that illustrates this. Stay tuned.

-Aaron
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Old 01-21-2010, 10:04 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dms View Post
Great job on this writeup!. However, your 8-10 hours is a little much. Doing the bushings for us and a Pedders dealer is a hour job. I have done quite a bit of them and 1 hour is plenty of time. We do not remove the diff from the subframe. We have developed a puller set. We use a 1/2 inch acme thread, which requires drilling out the center mounting hole just a little. We have a matching sized push plate and a reciever that the bushing will go into. Here is a link that shows you how to do it.


The diff mount bushings are critical bushings to help transfer torque more efficiently.

Now the link also shows an experimental process I did eliminating the engineered voids and it works. With our testing, we have found using bushings with engineered voids will put less shock on the diff and works well up to about 450hp at the ground. But guys running high hp, especially with drag radials, the diff needs far more support. So we have a harder dura, solid bushing that is good to over 900hp.

Aaron, if you would like info on this tool, just email me.


This was not meant to hijack this thread by no means. Aaron if it is, just email me and I will delete it.

thanks
mike
dms
No problem Mike. That is good information. Unfortunately, I do not think you can use a tool like this on both front bushings for the Camaro. The casting is different enough on the Camaro that the tool would interfere with case on the one side. I looked at making exactly such a tool and decided that it would not work. I'll check again with the CAD models, it would be a simple piece and would be useful for our shops and some DIY guys.

If you could do this without complete removal of the diff, you could save hours.

Even with diff removal, I think 4 or 5 hours is enough time.

-Aaron
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Old 01-21-2010, 11:47 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by MisterCamaro69 View Post
Mike, I think any info that makes this an easier job is good info.... But I'm not the OP. His call.

Can the tool be used for cradle bushings also?
No. We do have a tool for the cradle bushings as well. The size of the subframe bushings is substantially larger than the diff bushings.

But we have an alternative method that takes 5-10 minutes a bushing as well.

mike
dms
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Old 01-21-2010, 11:49 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron Pfadt View Post
No problem Mike. That is good information. Unfortunately, I do not think you can use a tool like this on both front bushings for the Camaro. The casting is different enough on the Camaro that the tool would interfere with case on the one side. I looked at making exactly such a tool and decided that it would not work. I'll check again with the CAD models, it would be a simple piece and would be useful for our shops and some DIY guys.

If you could do this without complete removal of the diff, you could save hours.

Even with diff removal, I think 4 or 5 hours is enough time.

-Aaron
Hey Aaron,

we have already done 30-40 of the Camaro diff bushings with this tool. So they do work. 1 hour is all it takes.

mike
dms
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Old 01-21-2010, 07:36 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dms View Post
Hey Aaron,

we have already done 30-40 of the Camaro diff bushings with this tool. So they do work. 1 hour is all it takes.

mike
dms
I don't see the tool you used working on the Camaro. The diff bushings are in a steel cup, with a flange that interferes with your tool.
If you are so convinced that your tool works so well on the Camaro, send me one of the tools to test. If it works I'll definitely give you a super write up.
Even with the tool, no way it's only one hour. Takes half that long just to get the car up on stands and properly supported.
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Old 01-21-2010, 08:22 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dms View Post
Hey Aaron,

we have already done 30-40 of the Camaro diff bushings with this tool. So they do work. 1 hour is all it takes.

mike
dms
I checked your site, where is the tool? How much?
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