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Dragstrip and Launch Techniques Discussion 1/4 mile, 1/8 mile, launch discussions.

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Old 01-25-2010, 03:27 PM   #1
ROBBDOGG1986
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I need some tips for getting a good run down the track!

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Old 01-25-2010, 04:09 PM   #2
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Here's the timeslips from my stock baseline runs. I hadn't been down the track in about 5 years.


The first run was with stabilization off / traction control on. (8.91 /13.524) The last run was in competition mode.(8.832 /13.501) The second race, I red lighted and missed second gear.

Here's a video of my screw up.


Your tip...... don't do this.

Last edited by Toyaholic; 01-25-2010 at 04:16 PM. Reason: OK....Having a problem with the YouTube link
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Old 01-25-2010, 04:22 PM   #3
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I've heard, If you're running street tires....you want to spin the tires just enough to clean them.

Were your runs in Lakeland?
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Old 01-25-2010, 05:36 PM   #4
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Ya I've been to Lakeland
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Old 01-25-2010, 07:29 PM   #5
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Drive it like u wanna break it. But with control.
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Old 01-25-2010, 07:33 PM   #6
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Practice,practice,practice..............practice being smooth and consistent.Never change more than one thing at a time.Sorry I'm not much help
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Old 01-25-2010, 08:00 PM   #7
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I found this article on the basics of racing a stock vehicle.
http://www.albeedigital.com/supercou...racing102.html
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Old 01-29-2010, 09:18 AM   #8
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Always turn TC off and try 7 sec hold down to turn every thing off.
Hold gas pedal between 2500 and 3000, with street tires, and 3,000 and 3,500, with drag radials. Drive it out of hole, don't pop clutch and don't slip it. Same motion as driving off from a red light on street. If you smell it you slipped it too much. If it doesn't smell it is fine.

DO INSTALLl BMR Fabrication ($139.95) or Spohn trailing arms, worth .2 reduction in 60 foot stops most wheel hop (protects drive train) Best mod you can make and easy to do.

Light burn out with street tires. Drive around the water and back up almost to water box. Spin tires on wet pavement not in water. Water in treads of street tires will drip off on the starting line (bad). For M6 burn out hold gas pedal steady at 5,000 rpm entire time. Dump the clutch in second and lightly get on the brake. Allow vehicle to move forward slowly entire time and get off brake and drive out of tire spin. If rear end moves right steer right. move left steer left, while moving forward. The faster you move forward the straighter it will go. Get off gas if rear moves to far to the side.

Launch between 2,500 and 3,000, with street tires, and 3,000 and 4,000, with drag radials, depending on conditions. The goal is minimal wheel spin with no bog coming out of wheel spin. Roll into throttle as wheels stop spinning. If it bogs coming out of wheel spin, raise launch rpm 200 at a time and/or roll into throttle sooner or faster. With to much wheel spin roll in later or slower. Too much wheel spin and/or wheel hop, pedal throttle, let off half way to 2/3 and roll back in

Track surface must reach 50 to 55 degrees to hook very well.

Easiest to hold throttle steady and wait till wheel spin stops to roll into throttle but slower. You can raise or lower launch rpm holding pedal steady to prevent bog or too much spin, then roll into throttle after wheel spin stops. I need at least 3000 rpm after spin stops to roll in for best results. Push rev limiter for shifts but don't hit it. Stock limiter will cause throttle blade to close for a second or two just like letting off on the gas. This can be tuned out and still leave spark reduction on for rev limiter.

Last edited by nuptualnemesis; 05-18-2010 at 11:14 AM. Reason: clarification
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Old 01-29-2010, 11:35 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nuptualnemesis View Post
Always turn TC off and try 7 sec hold down to turn every thing off.
Hold gas pedal between 3,000 and 3,500 rpm. Drive it out of hole, don't pop clutch and don't slip it. Same motion as driving off from a red light on street.

DO INSTALLl BMR Fabrication ($139.95) or Spohn trailing arms, worth .2 reduction in 60 foot stops most wheel hop (protects drive train) Best mod you can make and easy to do.

Light burn out with street tires. Launch between 3,000 and 3,500 with minimal wheel spin and try to roll into throttle as wheels stop spinning. If it bogs coming out of wheel spin, roll into throttle sooner or faster. With to much wheel spin roll in later or slower.

Easiest to hold throttle steady and wait till wheel spins stops to roll into throttle but slower. You can raise or lower launch rpm holding pedal steady to prevent bog or too much spin, then roll into throttle after wheel spin stops. Need at least 3000 rpm to roll in after spin stops for best results. Push rev limiter for shifts but don't hit it.
Which one do you have and where can I get it?
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Old 01-29-2010, 12:04 PM   #10
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I have the BMR parts (go to http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F5.htm ) and it has made a huge difference in how the car launches. It was done as part of a tech article in the current GM High Tech magazine where you can see a side-by-side comparison with the stock part. The car's launch changed drastically, I never had issues with wheel hop but when it spun the car would head towards the wall. Now the car goes straight and launches much harder. Stock tires I run low 1.80 short times and on drag radials I hit low 1.70s. The car only has a converter and headers and runs 12.40s at 111 mph.
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Old 01-29-2010, 04:47 PM   #11
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I have BMR TA's. My mods are listed in my garage and dyno graphs in my photo album (click Nuptualnemesis on left and ind drop down menu click on View public profile then look on left for Photos Album) Thunderracing.com in BR can get you anything.

TIP: You can remove front sway bar end links to get better lift and weight transfer. I drive on street with out them but don’t corner quiet as hard.

Second Mod I recommend is a Spohn rear sway bar, it has 80%,120% and 170% stiffer than stock settings. ($149.00) Makes IRS act more like a solid rear end. The middle setting helped completely eliminate wheel hop with drag radials. Ran a best 1.675 sixty foot. Will try stiffest setting next time. Spohn says not to use stiffest setting on street, only for race. The sway bar also reduces under steer (put front end links back on to try it). Under steer better for inexperienced drivers. You have to power through or out of cornering skid without it. Can’t let off like with stock suspension because rear end will spin around instead of straightening out. I am not sure how much the rear sway helped because I had also switched from 20” Nitto’s to 295/45/17 MT ET Streets at same time but it feels a lot more solid and improved handling. You may not need a new front sway bar but I think the Spohn front end links ($95) may help. Bwoody sells just the front end links for I think $295.

TIP: Lighter rims and tires make dramatic improvement in performance. Less inertia to accelerate or stop. 1 lb reduction in reciprocating weight is like 4 lbs less sprung weight. Stock rims are boat anchors. I took off 40 lbs with 24 & 25 lb 20" racing rims and took .2 off my ET plus 2 mph.

Tip: Tirerack,com has cheap light weight 18” rims. Search under 2010 camaro LT. Must designate LT. They have 144 rims listed with 42 on special. When they get to three or less they go for $99 to get rid of them. I got 2-17x9 & 2-18x9 SSR 16lb rims for $396 ,regular $2400. Practically all 18" rims listed for Camaro LT will fit SS but one piece works better than 2 piece especially on 17's. Caliper clearance issue is back side of front of rim on 18's and top of caliper on 17's. Off set is 32-35 front and 40 rear. You can call and ask. They may even test fit them. I had to run a 3/8 spacer on the rear. Billet aluminum spacer from speedway.com $11.99 @. Longer wheel studs recommended. I also saved 10lb per front tire with smaller 27" diameter street not a racing skinny but streetable front tire. Match front and rear tire diameter for ABS. Pics in my photo album.

Last edited by nuptualnemesis; 05-18-2010 at 11:15 AM. Reason: additional info
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Old 01-30-2010, 07:57 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CFPC_2010 View Post
I have the BMR parts (go to http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F5.htm ) and it has made a huge difference in how the car launches. It was done as part of a tech article in the current GM High Tech magazine where you can see a side-by-side comparison with the stock part. The car's launch changed drastically, I never had issues with wheel hop but when it spun the car would head towards the wall. Now the car goes straight and launches much harder. Stock tires I run low 1.80 short times and on drag radials I hit low 1.70s. The car only has a converter and headers and runs 12.40s at 111 mph.
Need to get these ASAP. My best so far was 12.59 with headers, CAI and tune.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nuptualnemesis View Post
I have BMR TA's. My mods are listed in my garage and dyno graphs in my photo album (click on name over avatar and home page for photos) Thunderracing.com in BR can get you anything.

TIP: Track surface temperature needs to be 50 to 55 degrees to get good hook.

TIP: You can remove front sway bar end links to get better lift and weight transfer. I drive on street with out them but don’t corner quiet as hard.

Second Mod I recommend is a Spohn rear sway bar, it has 80%,120% and 170% stiffer than stock settings. ($149.00) Makes IRS act more like a solid rear end. The middle setting helped completely eliminate wheel hop with drag radials. Ran a best 1.675 sixty foot. Will try stiffest setting next time. Spohn says not to use stiffest setting on street, only for race. The sway bar also reduces under steer (put front end links back on to try it). Under steer better for inexperienced drivers. You have to power through or out of cornering skid without it. Can’t let off like with stock suspension because rear end will spin around instead of straightening out. I am not sure how much the rear sway helped because I had also switched from 20” Nitto’s to 295/45/17 MT ET Streets at same time but it feels a lot more solid and improved handling. You may not need a new front sway bar but I think the Spohn front end links ($95) will help. Bwoody sells just the fron end links for I think $295.

TIP: Lighter rims and tires make dramatic improvement in performance. Less inertia to accelerate or stop. 1 lb reduction in reciprocating weight is like 4 lbs less sprung weight. Stock rims are boat anchors. I took off 40 lbs with 24 & 25 lb 20" racing rims and took .2 off my ET plus 2 mph.

Tip: Tirerack,com has cheap light weight 18” rims. Search under 2010 camaro LT. Must designate LT. They have 144 rims listed with 42 on special. When they get to three or less they go for $99 to get rid of them. I got 2-17x9 & 2-18x9 SSR 16lb rims for $396 ,regular $2400. Practically all 18" rims listed for Camaro LT will fit SS but one piece works better than 2 piece especially on 17's. Caliper clearance issue is back side of front of rim on 18's and top of caliper on 17's. Off set is 32-35 front and 40 rear. You can call and ask. They may even test fit them. I had to run a 3/8 spacer on the rear. Billet aluminum spacer from speedway.com $11.99 @. Longer wheel studs recommended. I also saved 10lb per front tire with smaller 27" diameter street not a racing skinny but streetable front tire. Match front and rear tire diameter for ABS. Pics in my photo album.
I did not see trailing arms in your mod list in your "garage". I saw them listed in your mods in the 1/4 mile times though but I did not know what t-arm was at the time. Always wanted to ask just never did till now. I was trying to beat your time last time I went to the track but did not get enough runs because of a bracket racing competition going on.

I was thinking of going to the SMJ/Bogart 17" wheels then thought about the 18" Corvette Z06 wheels to save some money. You say that 17's will fit the 2SS?


Thanks, guys for the advice I will definitely be ordering the t-arm on Monday morning.
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Old 01-31-2010, 06:42 AM   #13
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Anyone have any pics of the trailing arms installed?
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Old 02-01-2010, 10:24 AM   #14
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BMR TA's installed

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Originally Posted by BabyHauler View Post
Anyone have any pics of the trailing arms installed?

Look on last page of this thread. http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...ght=BMR&page=4
It show comparison to stock and installed. The lower one in the photo is TA and upper is toe rod.

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Old 02-01-2010, 11:34 AM   #15
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To SRT10KLLR:
I am sorry, I called the trailing arms "Lower control arms" in my mods list. Thanks for pointing it out, I have now corrected it.

I also tried the upper toe rods with no noticeable difference. Sub frame bushing helped a little but I think Sway bar helped more and cheaper and easier.

You should be able to beat my 12:61 bolt on ET. I only had 20" Nittos, AR Headers and the TA's, with a gutter vent extension from my stock air box to the lower grill (old school). As I remember it was only my second time to the track & I this was my first Stick car. I believe it was late September hot and humid. I was trying to hold out for the Vararam intake. I put the cam in because I wanted more power and I got tired of waiting for bolt ons or a good intake. Originally planned on waiting a year on the cam because of the warranty. BLSP and I were both going to SCR and trading who had the fastest time slips. His automatic beat me initially. After the cam I went to Modified Motor and ran 11.94.

TIP: I had removed the stock water bottle. It weighs 9 or 10 lbs full. (empty it) I picked up a small Kia washer reservoir at the junk yard and installed at the bottom. I also cut out the plastic cover in the lower grill and removed the cover in the upper grill for air flow to the the intake on the outside of the radiator. (old school)

Over the track closure for holiday break I figured I needed better tires and lighter rims for lower 11s. You need to be careful with the 17s.

TIP: BMW rims will fit 2010 Camaro. The have same bolt pattern, 5 x 120mm. The 300 series has similar offset. Tirerack.com lists different rims for different 300 series models. When they get to 3 or less they usually go on clearance for $99.00. I got $2400 worth of rims for $396. The 18x8 SSR 1b. rims were listed under Camaro LT with correct offset and cleared calipers.
The 17x9 SSR 16. rims were listed under BMW M3 and did not have quite enough offset but I figured I could use a spacer. I measured clearance for my 20" one peice OZ rims and for a 17" rim I would have had 3/8 clearance on the top of the calipers. However, because the 17" SSR was a two peice rim, the front was a little smaller and was welded to the rest of the rim which did have clearance. I had to grind the top and top-front of the caliper to get them to fit with the 3/8" spacer but it came out perfect. I think a one piece 17" will work better but spacer may still be required to clear front of caliper. Safer to go with 18's. But it is hard to find an 18" rim in a 9" or 10" width. It was also hard to find the 17" rim in a 9" width. I am running a 1/2" smaller than recommended rim width for the tire but have read a little smaller hooks better on a taller tire.

I preferred the BMW rims over the Corvette rims because the vette is a 5 X 4&3/4" which I believe is a 5X115mm. They are close but most required opening up with a dremel tool, although some less expensive reproductions are loose enough to fit. I was concerned about centering issues and loosing a lug nut. A spacer is required for the vette rims and you can't use a centering ring because of the spacer. The centering ring for my Oz's worked perfect for the front rims which had the same stud diameter of 14mm as the Camaro. Some BMW's have 14mm studs and some have 12mm. The rear 17's were listed for a vehicle which has the 14mm but they fit so tight I think they were made for a 12mm stud. Worked good though because snug fit prevents centering issue with spacer. I recommend a stud as much longer as the width of the spacer. I found studs at O'Reily Auto Parts. Hammer old one out and use open lug nut and impact to pull new one in.
The advantage to the Corvette rim is they are easy to find, cheap and wide enough but they are also heavy. I test fit an 18" vette rim and the back spacing was really tight even with a 1/2" spacer. You might have to buy front rims from Tirerack.com cheap and pay more for rears with the right width elsewhere. I am sure if you wait reasonably priced 17" and 18" rims for the SS will become available.

There is a good discussion about Z06 18x10.5 rims on this thread http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31213

Last edited by nuptualnemesis; 02-03-2010 at 09:54 AM.
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Old 02-01-2010, 11:56 AM   #16
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Hey nuptualnemesis do your bmr TAs make alot of noise back there?

I had a 4th gen that I swapped out the lower control arms on and it sounded like I installed a bucket of bolts
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Old 02-01-2010, 01:48 PM   #17
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Hey nuptualnemesis do your bmr TAs make alot of noise back there?

I had a 4th gen that I swapped out the lower control arms on and it sounded like I installed a bucket of bolts

No additional noise from TA's. I am still running stock muffler because I don't want a lot of racket. I can't notice any noise from TA's or Toe Rods.
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Old 02-01-2010, 02:04 PM   #18
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has anyone redlined their camaro? i have and the engine started to shutoff is that bad for the car??
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Old 02-01-2010, 02:09 PM   #19
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has anyone redlined their camaro? i have and the engine started to shutoff is that bad for the car??

i have a problem of forgetting to glace at the rpms when i launch
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Old 02-01-2010, 02:21 PM   #20
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has anyone redlined their camaro? i have and the engine started to shutoff is that bad for the car??
Its not good for the car thats for sure, but the rev limiter was put there to protect the engine so its not the worst thing ever.

I had a friend that just put his foot to the floor with the car not in gear and the car just bounced off the rev limiter for llike 7 secs and nothing happened.

Hope that helps
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Old 02-01-2010, 03:42 PM   #21
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Old 02-01-2010, 04:14 PM   #22
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has anyone redlined their camaro? i have and the engine started to shutoff is that bad for the car??
The computer rpm limiter on my M6 would pull spark to cylinders like an after market rev limiter but it would also close the throttle blade for a second or two to slow down the revs. Just like letting off on the gas. After a couple of seconds and a gear shift the throttle would open back up and go again. You can tune the throttle cut off out of the computer tune but the spark cut out may allow it to still climb slowly.

It is bad if the springs allow valve float, but at that rpm (they probably don't). After market springs and retainers have less float. Probably does not hurt motor any more than letting off on the gas right at the rev limit. Better to shift than let off though.

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Old 02-02-2010, 09:47 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nuptualnemesis View Post
The computer rpm limiter on my M6 would pull spark to cylinders like an after market rev limiter but it would also close the throttle blade for a second or two to slow down the revs. Just like letting off on the gas. After a couple of seconds and a gear shift the throttle would open back up and go again. You can tune the throttle cut off out of the computer tune but the spark cut out may allow it to still climb slowly.

It is bad if the springs allow valve float at that rpm (they probably don't) but after market springs and retainers have less float. Probably does not hurt motor any more than letting off on the gas right at the rev limit. Better to shift than let off though.
Gotta say I'm liking your information!

I have been curious as to what RPM will cause the valves to float but that's a different thread. Checked out your garage because I'm going to be doing, or rather I should say I want to do, a lot of similar things to mine that you've done (especially the rim ideas!). There were no pics though :(.

Thanks again for all the tips you're doing on your car, I'll be watching closely so I know what all I can do in the future to mine.
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Old 02-02-2010, 03:31 PM   #24
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Gotta say I'm liking your information!

I have been curious as to what RPM will cause the valves to float but that's a different thread. Checked out your garage because I'm going to be doing, or rather I should say I want to do, a lot of similar things to mine that you've done (especially the rim ideas!). There were no pics though :(.

Thanks again for all the tips you're doing on your car, I'll be watching closely so I know what all I can do in the future to mine.
The pics of dyno graphs are in photo album in "View Public Profile" not Home Page (Sorry). Click on nuptualnemesis on left and in drop down menu click on "view public profile" then look on right in drop down menu to locate Album. I have not been able to load photos in my garage?

TIP: You might want to try the new Nitto NTO5R drag radials before smaller rims and tires. A 20X10 rim would be needed for the the 315/35/20. Article in current "correction M&FF" went from high 1.7's to 1.59 with new Nitto drag radial in "correction 17" not 19" 315/35/17" and they will soon be out in 315/35/20. They did best with 25 lb of air. after trying 16? and 20 lbs. They went from a 1.77 with old NT555R to 1.59 sixty foot with NTO5R. The tread rating is Zero. These taller tires may keep your MPH up better than shorter tires. More time in fourth gear because of shorter tires or more rear end gear may be worse than staying in third gear longer. Higher RPMs required to reach same trap MPH with either shorter tires or more gear. Big jump in transmission ratio change from third to fourth.

I have some 20x10 OZ rear rims with worn out 275/40/20 Nitto555R's. If enough people would pitch in (Smile) to help me buy some new NTO5R's I could provide back to back comparison with my MT ET Street 295/45/17's.

Last edited by nuptualnemesis; 02-04-2010 at 04:58 PM. Reason: Correction and added New Info
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Old 02-03-2010, 09:52 AM   #25
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TIP OF THE DAY:

Drive out of excessive wheel spin by letting off half way on gas pedal and roll back into it. The tire spinning RPM level determines how fast to roll back in. It is called pedaling if you have to do it more than once.

Always get out of it if you have wheel hop (feels like a shudder or knocking in the rear because you will eventually break something.[/B]
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