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Old 02-05-2010, 06:02 PM   #1
Don O
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CCFL Afterburner Taillights Install Question

I'm installing the AAC CCFL afterburner taillights. I have the first side sets of lights taped in place and the wires routed out the vent hole. The problem is the inverter cable connections are way too short to directly connect and lengthening the wires from the lamps is not recommended. So for those of you that have done this CCFL install how did you get the connections to the inverter to work with the as delivered wire length? Did you drill your own holes out the back of the housing or lengthen the wires?

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Old 02-05-2010, 06:50 PM   #2
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Wish I could help you my friend. I'm at the same point where you are only I haven't got the wires fed back thru the vent hole that's covered with tape. I need to glue the light rings in place. I was wondering how to get the wires fed back thru. I was thinking of feeding a wire thru from the back and taping the wires and pulling back thru. I haven't seen how long or short the wires are. Hopefully I can follow this and we both can get ours working. I have all 4 lights opened up, clean and ready to glue the light kits in tonight or tomorrow.
I also emailed Justin with AAC on a few questions but he hasn't emailed me back or PM'd me. KISMYSS did the install and I've been in touch with him on some things about this install but he said I was on the right track. He never said anything about wires being too short. He did say he drilled a hole thru the reflector to get the wires back thru and to the vent holes. I'm not too cool with that but again, I haven't tried it yet, just knew it looked like there was no way to get them back and thru, though I never tried to, just a casual observation. I'll have to look closer tomorrow. I'm at work now and may be too tired eye to look tonight. Keep me posted though and I don't see why additional wiring can be added to the wires coming out from the back of the light to the converter, I don't know, I'm not an electrian. Did you read that some place?
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Old 02-05-2010, 08:00 PM   #3
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I drilled a 3/16" hole next to the rear lamp opening to get that side's wire out. This way one wire comes out the vent hole and the other out my new hole. Also the wires are now no where near where the rear bulb will be (read melting the wire if it was there).

The lamp to inverter wires run high voltage. CCFLs need high voltage to excite the gas in there. I see no way other then to cut the wries between the inverter and one of its connectors and extend it. I quit for the night but will probably do that tomorrow useless Justin or someone else who's done an install chimes in.

Where did you epoxy your lamps at? I'm a little disappointed that there are no instructions for the CCFLs, just the LEDs.

You can run the wires through the small opening in the clear diffuser, see the picture.

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Old 02-05-2010, 08:09 PM   #4
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This happened to me too. Problem#1: I tried to pass the wires thru the vent slots. Not happening. So I drilled a 1/8" hole is the clear lense next to the base of the ring (the white ends CCFL model) pushed wire thru. Problem#2: Feeding the wires thru the vent hole does not work. (wires to short) vent hole on opposite sides. So I drilled another 1/8" hole in top of light housing. feed wires thru then sealed w/silicon. Now I have just the right length in wire to hook it all up. After that it was smooth sailing. Just follow the instruction for electrical hook up. And make sure you secure the inverter so there not bouncing around back there. Last but not least. Afterburner Lights looks better if you cut the running light wire as shown in the instruction. I tried leaving the running lights on, Much better off. Overall. This MOD is Frek'in awesome. I also added the plate light LED's. Real Cool. Looking forward to receiveing the interior upgrade I purchased. Blue LEDs Dome and Blue Foot well CCFL tube lights. I feel like kid again...
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Old 02-05-2010, 08:12 PM   #5
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Guys do not cut the wires and make them longer.... They are designed with the lenth of the wires to make the tubes glow at the correct level. If you add or subtract from the wires it will effect the lights brightness.

The wires are in a tough spot, but the drilling idea is a good one. It is tough but please dont cut into the wires, just my 2 cents.
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Old 02-05-2010, 08:16 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bone View Post
This happened to me too. Problem#1: I tried to pass the wires thru the vent slots. Not happening. So I drilled a 1/8" hole is the clear lense next to the base of the ring (the white ends CCFL model) pushed wire thru. Problem#2: Feeding the wires thru the vent hole does not work. (wires to short) vent hole on opposite sides. So I drilled another 1/8" hole in top of light housing. feed wires thru then sealed w/silicon. Now I have just the right length in wire to hook it all up. After that it was smooth sailing. Just follow the instruction for electrical hook up. And make sure you secure the inverter so there not bouncing around back there. Last but not least. Afterburner Lights looks better if you cut the running light wire as shown in the instruction. I tried leaving the running lights on, Much better off. Overall. This MOD is Frek'in awesome. I also added the plate light LED's. Real Cool. Looking forward to receiveing the interior upgrade I purchased. Blue LEDs Dome and Blue Foot well CCFL tube lights. I feel like kid again...
Thanks Bone, I'll give that a shot tomorrow. You'll love the blue interior lights.

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Old 02-05-2010, 08:18 PM   #7
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Don O, I haven't secured the light rings yet. I cut my lenses with a dremel on yesterday and got them all set to do the surgery. I bought extra tails cause I didn't want to have a new car sitting without lights not knowing what I was going to run into, setbacks, delays etc..... none the less, it's not as simple as we would think. The video is not for these lights which I don't care for but I understand. I wish it was for this particular mod, on a C5 and not some import having HID's added.

I'm tired so I probably wone mess with mine until tomorrow. I'm going to see if I can get the wires fed before securing them to the clear reflective lens. I'm not sure exactly how much wire I'm working with but probably no more than you or Bone had to work with. I'll see what tomorrow brings. Did you use the glue in the kit? I was told my Kismyss not to use it as it sucked! I don't know but what I do know is I don't want them to (the light rings) to come off once I get these lamps back together.
Again, I'll know tomorrow and I appreciate any and all suggestions and or info you two can provide and I'll do the same. Still haven't heard from Justin.
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Old 02-05-2010, 08:30 PM   #8
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I understand what Bone did to get the wires out of the housing. But the wires would still have to run to the back to clear the opening on the car. I'm thinking I need to drill some small holes on the top of the insert where the housing slides into the car to get them out of the top when installed in the car. That's about the only way I see to make the existing wires work.

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Old 02-05-2010, 08:32 PM   #9
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Quote:
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I understand what Bone did to get the wires out of the housing. But the wires would still have to run to the back to clear the opening on the car. I'm thinking I need to drill some small holes on the top of the insert where the housing slides into the car to get them out of the top when installed in the car. That's about the only way I see to make the existing wires work.

Don O

If you do, can you take a pic for me plz!
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Old 02-05-2010, 08:34 PM   #10
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If you do, can you take a pic for me plz!
Will do. I think I'll put the housing back in the car and drill both at the same time to line up the holes.

Alos, I started with the dremel but found using a utility knife was actually a lot easier for those thinking of doing this.

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Old 02-05-2010, 08:36 PM   #11
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Well here what I did. After drinking, I mean cleaning the lense with alchol. (let dry) I positioned the ring. I taped (blue painter tape) the ring to the lense. I used the epoxy that was supplies. Mixed correctly. I used a tooth pick to apply the glue. In a tear drop size glob, I applied both white plastic ends to the lense. Then I added a third drop to the bottom of the ring. (also applied to the bottom side of the ring) if you apply it to the top side of the ring. It might be visible thru the lense. Don't worry about the white connector ends. They are hidden by the reflector at the top of the tail light. Cool eh! You can pm if you would like me to help you kinda walk thru it. Hell, I might need help installing my foot light wells.
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Old 02-05-2010, 08:40 PM   #12
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I understand what Bone did to get the wires out of the housing. But the wires would still have to run to the back to clear the opening on the car. I'm thinking I need to drill some small holes on the top of the insert where the housing slides into the car to get them out of the top when installed in the car. That's about the only way I see to make the existing wires work.

Don O
Your right. I forgot to tell you about the holes required to the plastic bumper housing. try to line them up with the light housing holes. that way the wire feed straight up thru both the light housing and the bumper housing. This will allow you to connect all the wires up to the inverter. Last, securely fasten the inverter, so it does bounce around..

Any help I can be. Here a new pic


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Old 02-05-2010, 08:47 PM   #13
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Well here what I did. After drinking, I mean cleaning the lense with alchol. (let dry) I positioned the ring. I taped (blue painter tape) the ring to the lense. I used the epoxy that was supplies. Mixed correctly. I used a tooth pick to apply the glue. In a tear drop size glob, I applied both white plastic ends to the lense. Then I added a third drop to the bottom of the ring. (also applied to the bottom side of the ring) if you apply it to the top side of the ring. It might be visible thru the lense. Don't worry about the white connector ends. They are hidden by the reflector at the top of the tail light. Cool eh! You can pm if you would like me to help you kinda walk thru it. Hell, I might need help installing my foot light wells.
The key to the foot well lights is connecting into the gray wire (pin #1) on the connector at the base of the steering column, this is the dome light switched power. I mounted both lights and the inverters without having to drill any holes.

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Old 02-05-2010, 08:51 PM   #14
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Glad I had an installer her in DFW to do mine....Paid 75 and did my LEDs
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Old 02-05-2010, 08:58 PM   #15
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The key to the foot well lights is connecting into the gray wire (pin #1) on the connector at the base of the steering column, this is the dome light switched power. I mounted both lights and the inverters without having to drill any holes.

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Will the CCFL foot well lights mimik the theater lighting. Tell me they do...
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Old 02-05-2010, 09:14 PM   #16
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One last thing before your clue the rings to the lense. Make sure you look good at the lengths of the wires, One is longer than the other. Make sure you position them so the you achive max. length back to inverter.
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Old 02-05-2010, 09:37 PM   #17
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also make sure you clean the inside of the light housing before you glue the lense back on.
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Old 02-05-2010, 09:39 PM   #18
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Glad I had an installer her in DFW to do mine....Paid 75 and did my LEDs
The LEDS ones are easier since they run on 12v the wires can be any length. But for $75 that was a good deal for ya

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Old 02-05-2010, 09:40 PM   #19
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Will the CCFL foot well lights mimik the theater lighting. Tell me they do...
Not sure what "theater lighting" is other than I've been in theaters that had lights

They do look way nice. You won't be disappointed.

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Old 02-05-2010, 09:41 PM   #20
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True. I uses a DAP Automotive/Marine Silicon.
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Old 02-05-2010, 09:43 PM   #21
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Not sure what "theater lighting" is other than I've been in theaters that had lights

They do look way nice. You won't be disappointed.

Don O
theater lighting is, where as. The lights come on slowly. and also dim slowly. Instead of, just turning on and off.
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Old 02-05-2010, 10:15 PM   #22
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theater lighting is, where as. The lights come on slowly. and also dim slowly. Instead of, just turning on and off.
Just went and checked. The overhead is the dominate light and retains the theater lighting effect. The foot well CCFLs come on right away but take just a little time to get to full brightness.

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Old 02-05-2010, 10:19 PM   #23
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I love the footwell CCFL's

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Old 02-07-2010, 12:59 PM   #24
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The footwells look really awesome. I'm just waiting for mine to arrive. I had hoped to install them this weekend. But thats not gonna happen.
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Old 02-07-2010, 02:12 PM   #25
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Sunday update. Worked on the lights and finished the CCFL installation yesterday. The pictures below show what I did based on Bone's inputs. Note the different wire lengths as Bone pointed out. That is key to getting the correct lamp in the correct housing.

Another key point is using hemostats to fish the wires through the holes. I drilled the top holes with the taillight housing in the car so the holes lined up. The hardest part of the job is getting the chrome tail light covers off. Ya gotta be patience and use plastic tools.
I’ll be finishing up the install today and will post more pictures.


In summary the basic steps are:

Remove the black plastic access panels in the trunk.
Remove the taillight bulbs (they twist a ¼ turn and then come out) and move the wire harness out of the way.
Remove the chrome taillight rings, there are 6 tabs, 2 on top, 2 on the bottom and one on each side.
Remove the 3 nuts on each housing (be careful and hold on to them. I dropped one and it fell down into a never-never land hole. Gonna use a magnet to try and fish it out today).
Use painters tape and cover the from of the red lenses.
Use a box cutter and wear gloves. Carefully score the bead between the red lens and the black housing. It was actually very easy, but go slow and don’t try to pry them apart.
Drill 2 small holes in the top row of the clear lens about the second hexagon in from the outer edge.
Reinstall the housing back into the car and drill holes through the car into the taillight housing pretty close to the clear lens. I used two holes on the inner taillights and one on the outer lights. You want the shortest path to get the wires from the CCFL to exit the housing.
Carefully test the u shaped CCFL lamps on the clear lens. The lamps are slightly curve to fit against the clear lens. You’ll notice a big difference in fit if they are upside down.
Now put the inner and outer housing next to one another. With the CFFLs in front of them, inspect the wire lengths and arrange the two lamps so that the longest wire on each CCFL is to the outside.
You should notice that the wires can “meeting in the middle” to be able to connect to the inverter inline connectors.
Carefully insert the wires through the clear lens. Using hemostats you can clamp on to the wire inside the housing and feed it up through the top holes just drilled. Pull the wire snug will guiding the CCFL in place. When close, use painter’s tape to hold in place.
I put all 4 housing in a box to hold them upright and mixed enough epoxy to do 2 at a time. I put a big blob on each end were the wire attaches and them put a small bead at the bottom of the “U”. I carefully wiped any excess epoxy off the of the CCFL on the bottom bead since that will be visible. The wire ends are not that visible. I use a cut off Q-tip shanks to apply the epoxy and silicon adhesive.
Put a small dab of silicon on the clear lens hole and the gently pull on the wire out the top and put a blob of silicon in that hole. Use painters tape to keep tension on the wire.
I let the whole setup dry for about and hour.
Next clean off the clear lens and the inside of the red lens. I use a can of compressed air to blow out any plastic shavings and/or dust etc.
But a bead of silicon along the black housing edge where the red lens is going to seat.
Put the red lens on and push in place. I left the blue painters tape on that covers the whole lens from the cutting step. This way you don’t get any silicon on the lens.
Wipe any excess silicon that squished out and use painters tape to hold in place.
I let this setup dry over night.
Remove all painters tape and install on the car, carefully feeding the wires up into the drilled holes as your putting the taillight housing back in.
Reinstall the 3 nuts holding the housing in place.
Install the connectors on the wire ends, put the heat shrink on the wires, make the connection to the inverter and shrink the tubing with a heat gun.
The drivers side wires are Purple = 12v, black is ground. Passenger side is Brown = 12v and black is ground. I used T-Taps to connect, bought at Pep Boys.
The finger picture is a trick to get the nuts back on the hard to reach taillight posts. Use painters tape folded to stick on both side.
I mounted the inverter on an angle bracket I mounted to the inner taillight housing stud and then ty-wrapped it to it.

Don O
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