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Old 06-28-2012, 11:57 AM   #127
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look at this. so updated looks like I'll be going back tomorrow. what was determined by other mechanics is that the left inner tie rod needs replacement. The Service agent told me (I don't ask) that he'd replace it under warranty and and not charge me the follows alignment. The noise on the left seems gone, but I looked under the car and the markings I left on the inner tie rod are still there meaning he did not replace it. When he said he did, he also said specifications were met. Do these look like they were met? He also didn't hand this print out to me, I had to ask the clerk for my copy.

So bottom line is this if I get an actual tie rod replacement will I finally be able to get my alignment back to OEM specs? I'm going back tomorrow I'm not using that guy any more. I don't even see what the purpose of lying about replacing a tie rod?


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Old 06-28-2012, 12:25 PM   #128
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look at this. so updated looks like I'll be going back tomorrow. what was determined by other mechanics is that the left inner tie rod needs replacement. The Service agent told me (I don't ask) that he'd replace it under warranty and and not charge me the follows alignment. The noise on the left seems gone, but I looked under the car and the markings I left on the inner tie rod are still there meaning he did not replace it. When he said he did, he also said specifications were met. Do these look like they were met? He also didn't hand this print out to me, I had to ask the clerk for my copy.

So bottom line is this if I get an actual tie rod replacement will I finally be able to get my alignment back to OEM specs? I'm going back tomorrow I'm not using that guy any more. I don't even see what the purpose of lying about replacing a tie rod?


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When a measurement is in a red block it is out of range. He did get the front toe within range.

How many miles are on your 5th Gen?
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Old 06-28-2012, 02:20 PM   #129
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26,000

so this alignment is ok?


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Old 06-28-2012, 02:21 PM   #130
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26,000

so this alignment is ok?


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How hard do you drive your 5th Gen? Do you road course or autocross?
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Old 06-28-2012, 02:33 PM   #131
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eh sorry not familiar with those terms, do you mean if I drive in manual mode or auto?


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Old 06-28-2012, 02:54 PM   #132
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eh sorry not familiar with those terms, do you mean if I drive in manual mode or auto?


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I mean driving on a race track or racing around cones in a parking lot. Based on your answer the alignment is sloppy and out of spec in three areas.



I am guessing when I say it appears the front camber was not adjusted. At 27K your tie rods should be fine. When doing an alignment on a 5th Gen it is best to do a caster sweep even though caster is not adjustable. When setting the steering wheel straight with the 'clamp' I like the tech to run the engine and turn the wheels side to side a couple of times before setting it.

The left front cambers in -1.1 degrees while the right front cambers out +0.2 degrees. For street driving and long tire life they should both camber in -0.5 to -0.75 degrees. They should match side to side.

In the rear, the right camber is out of spec on the right side. It should be dialed back in -0.8

Finally while the thrust angle is 0.11 and green, the left rear toe is out of spec. The rear toe should be set IN at 0.10 per side.

Feel free to print this and take it back to your Dealer. They may not like what they see, but they will know you are double checking the work they do.
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Old 06-28-2012, 02:55 PM   #133
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oh noooo I don't race it, I'm just trying to reach V6 OEM specs.


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Old 06-28-2012, 02:59 PM   #134
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and I hit a hit a big pothole that cracked the rim, and later it was determined that I needed a new inner tie rod from that encounter. because since then they have'nt been able to align it properly. so once I told them to replace the tie rod today, this is the alignment they managed. but I marked my tie rod and it looks like they didn't change it at all.

so I posted my new alignment to make sure this is no where near v6 oem
specs.


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Old 06-28-2012, 03:03 PM   #135
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and I hit a hit a big pothole that cracked the rim, and later it was determined that I needed a new inner tie rod from that encounter. because since then they have'nt been able to align it properly. so once I told them to replace the tie rod today, this is the alignment they managed. but I marked my tie rod and it looks like they didn't change it at all.

so I posted my new alignment to make sure this is no where near v6 oem
specs.


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They were able to align the toe so I am guessing without seeing the inner tie rod is good to go. The other elements of the alignment have nothing to do with the a replaced or not replaced tie rod. Knowing that you hit a monster pot hole we do want to see a caster reading.
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Old 06-28-2012, 03:16 PM   #136
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yeah why is the caster not shown? is that suspiciously odd? why would it greyed out.

my previous caster reading from the last alignment is actually posted on the earlier pages. it reads:

Left-5.7
Right- 5.9
that's how it was before this alignment.


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Old 06-28-2012, 03:19 PM   #137
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yeah why is the caster not shown? is that suspiciously odd? why would it greyed out.

my previous caster reading from the last alignment is actually posted on the earlier pages. it reads:

Left-5.7
Right- 5.9
that's how it was before this alignment.


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Since caster in not adjustable, the tech just skipped the caster sweep which means there is no reading so you get the grey box. We do make special eccentric bolts to adjust caster if yours is now out of spec. We'll cross that bridge if and when we get there.
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Old 07-03-2012, 10:34 PM   #138
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Total noob question be warned. I just had my '10 v6 lowered with Eibach Prokit Springs. The drop was 1" in the front and 1.4" in the rear. I haven't gotten an alignment being out of town and all. I got back, took my car to pick up some dinner for the fam, and noticed the steering wheel shaking at around 50mph on the highway. It kept getting worse as I went faster. Now, I also had new wheels installed. The wheels were balanced with my stock pereli p-zero's. I had had some vibration at 75mph, after I got my wheels, but not this drastic after the drop. Would an alignment correct the vibration issues at speed?
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Old 07-04-2012, 12:17 AM   #139
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Total noob question be warned. I just had my '10 v6 lowered with Eibach Prokit Springs. The drop was 1" in the front and 1.4" in the rear. I haven't gotten an alignment being out of town and all. I got back, took my car to pick up some dinner for the fam, and noticed the steering wheel shaking at around 50mph on the highway. It kept getting worse as I went faster. Now, I also had new wheels installed. The wheels were balanced with my stock pereli p-zero's. I had had some vibration at 75mph, after I got my wheels, but not this drastic after the drop. Would an alignment correct the vibration issues at speed?
Loosen the lugs on all four wheels Hand tighten three lugs in a triangular pattern. Then use a ratchet to snug them firmly in place. Use your torque wrench and bring them to 100 pounds. Install the remaining two lugs and torque to 100. Go up in 10 pound increment with the original triangular patter and then the remaining two. Repeat to 140. This will center your wheel and evenly torque them. Take a test drive. My guess is your problem will be gone, back to the slight vibration you had before the lowering coils were installed.
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Old 07-04-2012, 12:25 AM   #140
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Loosen the lugs on all four wheels Hand tighten three lugs in a triangular pattern. Then use a ratchet to snug them firmly in place. Use your torque wrench and bring them to 100 pounds. Install the remaining two lugs and torque to 100. Go up in 10 pound increment with the original triangular patter and then the remaining two. Repeat to 140. This will center your wheel and evenly torque them. Take a test drive. My guess is your problem will be gone, back to the slight vibration you had before the lowering coils were installed.
N00b question again... Is this done with the car off the ground? Thanks for the quick response too!
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