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Old 06-05-2012, 06:09 PM   #126
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Originally Posted by iceman5730 View Post
I too need advise I just installed Eibach Pro kit sway bars/lowering kit and have poly subframe bushing It is a V6 RS. Stock tires. What should the setting be for use as a daily Driver with an aggressive foot/ maybe track 1 time a month.

Thanks
I suggest aggressive street sir.


Bush Timing


Step 1. Lift the car on a two post lift and raise it.

Step 2. Loosen the following bolts/nuts:
Front:
---Inner Control Arm Bushing
---Inner Radius Rod
Rear:
---Trailing Arm Bushings (both ends)
---Toe Rod Bushings (both ends)
---Lower Control Arm Bushings (Inner)
---Upper Control Arm Bushings (Rearward)
---Lower Strut Bushings

Step 3.
Lower the car and drive it around the parking lot SLOWLY and on to the alignment lift.

Step 4.
With the weight of the car on the wheels tighten all of the nuts/bolts to spec.

Step 5.
Align the car at the new ride height.

Here are the newest FE2, FE3, FE4 and FE5 OEM and Pedders Alignment Specs.





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Old 06-28-2012, 11:57 AM   #127
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look at this. so updated looks like I'll be going back tomorrow. what was determined by other mechanics is that the left inner tie rod needs replacement. The Service agent told me (I don't ask) that he'd replace it under warranty and and not charge me the follows alignment. The noise on the left seems gone, but I looked under the car and the markings I left on the inner tie rod are still there meaning he did not replace it. When he said he did, he also said specifications were met. Do these look like they were met? He also didn't hand this print out to me, I had to ask the clerk for my copy.

So bottom line is this if I get an actual tie rod replacement will I finally be able to get my alignment back to OEM specs? I'm going back tomorrow I'm not using that guy any more. I don't even see what the purpose of lying about replacing a tie rod?


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Old 06-28-2012, 12:25 PM   #128
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look at this. so updated looks like I'll be going back tomorrow. what was determined by other mechanics is that the left inner tie rod needs replacement. The Service agent told me (I don't ask) that he'd replace it under warranty and and not charge me the follows alignment. The noise on the left seems gone, but I looked under the car and the markings I left on the inner tie rod are still there meaning he did not replace it. When he said he did, he also said specifications were met. Do these look like they were met? He also didn't hand this print out to me, I had to ask the clerk for my copy.

So bottom line is this if I get an actual tie rod replacement will I finally be able to get my alignment back to OEM specs? I'm going back tomorrow I'm not using that guy any more. I don't even see what the purpose of lying about replacing a tie rod?


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When a measurement is in a red block it is out of range. He did get the front toe within range.

How many miles are on your 5th Gen?
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Old 06-28-2012, 02:20 PM   #129
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26,000

so this alignment is ok?


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Old 06-28-2012, 02:21 PM   #130
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26,000

so this alignment is ok?


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How hard do you drive your 5th Gen? Do you road course or autocross?
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Old 06-28-2012, 02:33 PM   #131
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eh sorry not familiar with those terms, do you mean if I drive in manual mode or auto?


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Old 06-28-2012, 02:54 PM   #132
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eh sorry not familiar with those terms, do you mean if I drive in manual mode or auto?


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I mean driving on a race track or racing around cones in a parking lot. Based on your answer the alignment is sloppy and out of spec in three areas.



I am guessing when I say it appears the front camber was not adjusted. At 27K your tie rods should be fine. When doing an alignment on a 5th Gen it is best to do a caster sweep even though caster is not adjustable. When setting the steering wheel straight with the 'clamp' I like the tech to run the engine and turn the wheels side to side a couple of times before setting it.

The left front cambers in -1.1 degrees while the right front cambers out +0.2 degrees. For street driving and long tire life they should both camber in -0.5 to -0.75 degrees. They should match side to side.

In the rear, the right camber is out of spec on the right side. It should be dialed back in -0.8

Finally while the thrust angle is 0.11 and green, the left rear toe is out of spec. The rear toe should be set IN at 0.10 per side.

Feel free to print this and take it back to your Dealer. They may not like what they see, but they will know you are double checking the work they do.
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Old 06-28-2012, 02:55 PM   #133
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oh noooo I don't race it, I'm just trying to reach V6 OEM specs.


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Old 06-28-2012, 02:59 PM   #134
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and I hit a hit a big pothole that cracked the rim, and later it was determined that I needed a new inner tie rod from that encounter. because since then they have'nt been able to align it properly. so once I told them to replace the tie rod today, this is the alignment they managed. but I marked my tie rod and it looks like they didn't change it at all.

so I posted my new alignment to make sure this is no where near v6 oem
specs.


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Old 06-28-2012, 03:03 PM   #135
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and I hit a hit a big pothole that cracked the rim, and later it was determined that I needed a new inner tie rod from that encounter. because since then they have'nt been able to align it properly. so once I told them to replace the tie rod today, this is the alignment they managed. but I marked my tie rod and it looks like they didn't change it at all.

so I posted my new alignment to make sure this is no where near v6 oem
specs.


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They were able to align the toe so I am guessing without seeing the inner tie rod is good to go. The other elements of the alignment have nothing to do with the a replaced or not replaced tie rod. Knowing that you hit a monster pot hole we do want to see a caster reading.
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Old 06-28-2012, 03:16 PM   #136
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yeah why is the caster not shown? is that suspiciously odd? why would it greyed out.

my previous caster reading from the last alignment is actually posted on the earlier pages. it reads:

Left-5.7
Right- 5.9
that's how it was before this alignment.


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Old 06-28-2012, 03:19 PM   #137
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Quote:
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yeah why is the caster not shown? is that suspiciously odd? why would it greyed out.

my previous caster reading from the last alignment is actually posted on the earlier pages. it reads:

Left-5.7
Right- 5.9
that's how it was before this alignment.


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Since caster in not adjustable, the tech just skipped the caster sweep which means there is no reading so you get the grey box. We do make special eccentric bolts to adjust caster if yours is now out of spec. We'll cross that bridge if and when we get there.
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Old 07-03-2012, 10:34 PM   #138
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Total noob question be warned. I just had my '10 v6 lowered with Eibach Prokit Springs. The drop was 1" in the front and 1.4" in the rear. I haven't gotten an alignment being out of town and all. I got back, took my car to pick up some dinner for the fam, and noticed the steering wheel shaking at around 50mph on the highway. It kept getting worse as I went faster. Now, I also had new wheels installed. The wheels were balanced with my stock pereli p-zero's. I had had some vibration at 75mph, after I got my wheels, but not this drastic after the drop. Would an alignment correct the vibration issues at speed?
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Old 07-04-2012, 12:17 AM   #139
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Total noob question be warned. I just had my '10 v6 lowered with Eibach Prokit Springs. The drop was 1" in the front and 1.4" in the rear. I haven't gotten an alignment being out of town and all. I got back, took my car to pick up some dinner for the fam, and noticed the steering wheel shaking at around 50mph on the highway. It kept getting worse as I went faster. Now, I also had new wheels installed. The wheels were balanced with my stock pereli p-zero's. I had had some vibration at 75mph, after I got my wheels, but not this drastic after the drop. Would an alignment correct the vibration issues at speed?
Loosen the lugs on all four wheels Hand tighten three lugs in a triangular pattern. Then use a ratchet to snug them firmly in place. Use your torque wrench and bring them to 100 pounds. Install the remaining two lugs and torque to 100. Go up in 10 pound increment with the original triangular patter and then the remaining two. Repeat to 140. This will center your wheel and evenly torque them. Take a test drive. My guess is your problem will be gone, back to the slight vibration you had before the lowering coils were installed.
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Old 07-04-2012, 12:25 AM   #140
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Loosen the lugs on all four wheels Hand tighten three lugs in a triangular pattern. Then use a ratchet to snug them firmly in place. Use your torque wrench and bring them to 100 pounds. Install the remaining two lugs and torque to 100. Go up in 10 pound increment with the original triangular patter and then the remaining two. Repeat to 140. This will center your wheel and evenly torque them. Take a test drive. My guess is your problem will be gone, back to the slight vibration you had before the lowering coils were installed.
N00b question again... Is this done with the car off the ground? Thanks for the quick response too!
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Old 07-04-2012, 12:30 AM   #141
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N00b question again... Is this done with the car off the ground? Thanks for the quick response too!
Yes and no. The rears are easy in the air with the ebrake on and the car in gear. The fronts spin free so you get them as tight as you can and as even as you can before you start to lower it. When you lower it don't go all the way down and tighten some more. All we are doing is making sure the wheel is centered and the lug nut evenly torqued. If the wheel doesn't self center, if it isn't hub-centric we can get it centered using this methodology and eliminate a variable.
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Old 12-24-2012, 12:40 PM   #142
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Wheel Offset Changes VS Alighnment Question? Please Help

I have a 2010 Camaro 1LT that I have installed C-6 Corvette Wheels using billet wheel adapters with a bolt circle dia. change from the Camaro 120mm. bolt circle to the 4.750 bolt circle of the Corvette.

The Corvette wheel sizes I am using are a 19 by 10 in. wheel for the rear, and an 18 by 8.5 in. wheel for the front. The factory OEM wheel offsets for the car with the optional 19 by 8 in. wheel are 38mm.

Using a 34 mm. wheel adapter for the rear wheel gives you a NEW wheel offset of 45mm. and using a 26mm. wheel adapter for the front wheels gives you a NEW wheel offset of 30mm.

With a CHANGE of only 8mm. offset in the front,and a CHANGE of only 7mm. in the rear,both of the new wheel offsets are less than 3/8 ths. of an in.

With the Corvette wheels installed on the car, you cannot tell that there has been an offset change, and the new set up looks fantastic.

My question is, will changing the factory wheel offsets from 38mm. to 45mm. in the rear, and 30mm. in the front cause uneven tire wear to the inside or outside corners of the tires?

My son who drives a 2006 CTS-V Cadillac is telling me that because you are changing the TOE SETTINGS it will, and that a four wheel laser alighnment WILL be necessary to prevent the uneven tire wear.

To those of you out there who are afraid or using wheel adapters , I had them on my Lingenfelter built 2003 Corvette ZO6 with 570 HP. at the flywheel, and 502 hp. at the drive wheels for over 5 years, and NEVER had an issue with them. By the way the car saw many track day with speeds in excess of 130 mph. Make SURE you are using a high quality BILLET wheel adapter, and that is installed correctly,and check the ALL of the lug nuts using the correct TORQUE OFTEN!

Any help with the uneven tire wear question do to the NEW wheel offsets, would be much appreciated.

All The Best,

Red 2010 Camaro

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Old 12-27-2012, 03:23 PM   #143
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V6 track / street alignment

Any suggestions for my set up would be great! It's a V6 with a SS rear diff and the following suspension parts:

Springs (~1")
Sways
End Links
Rear Trailing Arms & Bushings
Control Arm Bushings

20x9 wheels up front, 20x10 in the rear. 255x35 tires in front, 305x35 tires in the back.

The car is a daily driver, however I go to the drag strip about 10 times a year. I plan to start Auto-x the car, mainly for fun nothing too serious. However with that said I would like the focus to be more on handling than straight line drag racing. Nothing too major that is going to cause extreme tire wear. I understand that there will be more though if I want to focus on handling, I just don't want to go balls to the wall.

RWHP is right around 350.
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Old 12-27-2012, 04:40 PM   #144
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I have a 2010 Camaro 1LT that I have installed C-6 Corvette Wheels using billet wheel adapters with a bolt circle dia. change from the Camaro 120mm. bolt circle to the 4.750 bolt circle of the Corvette.

The Corvette wheel sizes I am using are a 19 by 10 in. wheel for the rear, and an 18 by 8.5 in. wheel for the front. The factory OEM wheel offsets for the car with the optional 19 by 8 in. wheel are 38mm.

Using a 34 mm. wheel adapter for the rear wheel gives you a NEW wheel offset of 45mm. and using a 26mm. wheel adapter for the front wheels gives you a NEW wheel offset of 30mm.

With a CHANGE of only 8mm. offset in the front,and a CHANGE of only 7mm. in the rear,both of the new wheel offsets are less than 3/8 ths. of an in.

With the Corvette wheels installed on the car, you cannot tell that there has been an offset change, and the new set up looks fantastic.

My question is, will changing the factory wheel offsets from 38mm. to 45mm. in the rear, and 30mm. in the front cause uneven tire wear to the inside or outside corners of the tires?

My son who drives a 2006 CTS-V Cadillac is telling me that because you are changing the TOE SETTINGS it will, and that a four wheel laser alighnment WILL be necessary to prevent the uneven tire wear.

To those of you out there who are afraid or using wheel adapters , I had them on my Lingenfelter built 2003 Corvette ZO6 with 570 HP. at the flywheel, and 502 hp. at the drive wheels for over 5 years, and NEVER had an issue with them. By the way the car saw many track day with speeds in excess of 130 mph. Make SURE you are using a high quality BILLET wheel adapter, and that is installed correctly,and check the ALL of the lug nuts using the correct TORQUE OFTEN!

Any help with the uneven tire wear question do to the NEW wheel offsets, would be much appreciated.

All The Best,

Red 2010 Camaro

dwparrish2003@yahoo.com
When you change wheel offsets you are changing the scrub radius. With the change you have or have planned I wouldn't worry about it. Get your 5th Gen aligned to a tight spec Pedders Aggressive Street. Enjoy.
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Old 03-03-2013, 10:42 AM   #145
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Anyone care to add their professional suggestion on correct alignment would be much appreciated.

2011 camaro SS
Split drop( 1.4" front. 1"rear)
Full bushings
Trailing arms & toe rods
Sways and end links
Rear camber and toe eccentrics

Usually ride around on 18" Forgestars 245/40/18 front and 305/45/18 rear. Rarely drive with few drag strip days year.
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Old 03-03-2013, 11:12 AM   #146
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Anyone care to add their professional suggestion on correct alignment would be much appreciated.

2011 camaro SS
Split drop( 1.4" front. 1"rear)
Full bushings
Trailing arms & toe rods
Sways and end links
Rear camber and toe eccentrics

Usually ride around on 18" Forgestars 245/40/18 front and 305/45/18 rear. Rarely drive with few drag strip days year.
The Aggressive Street will work for you. With the OE rear camber eccentrics you won't be able to get to 0 rear camber. Have the tech work to get as close to 0 as possible.

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Old 03-03-2013, 02:32 PM   #147
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The Aggressive Street will work for you. With the OE rear camber eccentrics you won't be able to get to 0 rear camber. Have the tech work to get as close to 0 as possible.

Sorry, should have specified. I have your rear camber and toe eccentrics.
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Old 03-03-2013, 03:08 PM   #148
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what kinda alignment do i need to drag racing, i dont drive hard in curves at all normal driving . looking for a good drag racing aligment . normal ride height and 1" lower . as my dads camaro is lowered.
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Old 03-03-2013, 07:29 PM   #149
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Sorry, should have specified. I have your rear camber and toe eccentrics.
AESOME! Follow the sheet exactly.
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Old 03-03-2013, 08:04 PM   #150
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AESOME! Follow the sheet exactly.
Much appreciated!
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