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Old 04-12-2012, 01:57 PM   #120
Jshadow
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Ok i'm a noob when it comes to suspension and alignment so hope you guys can help. I just dropped my 2010 SS 1" with Eibach Pro and also added some Eibach sways. I know i'm supposed to get a realignment now correct even though i have sways? If so what specs should I recommend? Sorry if this has already been addressed I don't know how to read all those numbers :/.

BTW this is my daily driver on stock tires.
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Old 04-12-2012, 03:48 PM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
Here are the newest FE2, FE3, FE4 and FE5 OEM and Pedders Alignment Specs.




Bush Timing


Step 1. Lift the car on a two post lift and raise it.

Step 2. Loosen the following bolts/nuts:
Front:
---Inner Control Arm Bushing
---Inner Radius Rod
Rear:
---Trailing Arm Bushings (both ends)
---Toe Rod Bushings (both ends)
---Lower Control Arm Bushings (Inner)
---Upper Control Arm Bushings (Rearward)
---Lower Strut Bushings

Step 3.
Lower the car and drive it around the parking lot SLOWLY and on to the alignment lift.

Step 4.
With the weight of the car on the wheels tighten all of the nuts/bolts to spec.

Step 5.
Align the car at the new ride height.
Here is the alignment specs for you and have the bushings timed before the alignment is done.
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Old 04-12-2012, 10:05 PM   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce@raymondsperformance View Post
Here is the alignment specs for you and have the bushings timed before the alignment is done.

Wait is that for me? And do i just bring them those pdf's and they do the rest lol?
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Old 04-13-2012, 09:53 AM   #123
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Wait is that for me? And do i just bring them those pdf's and they do the rest lol?
If you take These specs to the alignment shop they should be able to get your alignment where it needs to be.
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Old 05-04-2012, 07:35 AM   #124
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I could use some help too.....I have the BMR split drop springs im about to put on and i also have the rear SS shocks so that the springs will fit properly. its a daily driver and i just would like the best overall performance and wheel wear???? Thanks guys
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Old 05-31-2012, 11:06 PM   #125
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I too need advise I just installed Eibach Pro kit sway bars/lowering kit and have poly subframe bushing It is a V6 RS. Stock tires. What should the setting be for use as a daily Driver with an aggressive foot/ maybe track 1 time a month.

Thanks
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Old 06-05-2012, 07:09 PM   #126
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Originally Posted by iceman5730 View Post
I too need advise I just installed Eibach Pro kit sway bars/lowering kit and have poly subframe bushing It is a V6 RS. Stock tires. What should the setting be for use as a daily Driver with an aggressive foot/ maybe track 1 time a month.

Thanks
I suggest aggressive street sir.


Bush Timing


Step 1. Lift the car on a two post lift and raise it.

Step 2. Loosen the following bolts/nuts:
Front:
---Inner Control Arm Bushing
---Inner Radius Rod
Rear:
---Trailing Arm Bushings (both ends)
---Toe Rod Bushings (both ends)
---Lower Control Arm Bushings (Inner)
---Upper Control Arm Bushings (Rearward)
---Lower Strut Bushings

Step 3.
Lower the car and drive it around the parking lot SLOWLY and on to the alignment lift.

Step 4.
With the weight of the car on the wheels tighten all of the nuts/bolts to spec.

Step 5.
Align the car at the new ride height.

Here are the newest FE2, FE3, FE4 and FE5 OEM and Pedders Alignment Specs.





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Old 06-28-2012, 12:57 PM   #127
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look at this. so updated looks like I'll be going back tomorrow. what was determined by other mechanics is that the left inner tie rod needs replacement. The Service agent told me (I don't ask) that he'd replace it under warranty and and not charge me the follows alignment. The noise on the left seems gone, but I looked under the car and the markings I left on the inner tie rod are still there meaning he did not replace it. When he said he did, he also said specifications were met. Do these look like they were met? He also didn't hand this print out to me, I had to ask the clerk for my copy.

So bottom line is this if I get an actual tie rod replacement will I finally be able to get my alignment back to OEM specs? I'm going back tomorrow I'm not using that guy any more. I don't even see what the purpose of lying about replacing a tie rod?


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Old 06-28-2012, 01:25 PM   #128
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look at this. so updated looks like I'll be going back tomorrow. what was determined by other mechanics is that the left inner tie rod needs replacement. The Service agent told me (I don't ask) that he'd replace it under warranty and and not charge me the follows alignment. The noise on the left seems gone, but I looked under the car and the markings I left on the inner tie rod are still there meaning he did not replace it. When he said he did, he also said specifications were met. Do these look like they were met? He also didn't hand this print out to me, I had to ask the clerk for my copy.

So bottom line is this if I get an actual tie rod replacement will I finally be able to get my alignment back to OEM specs? I'm going back tomorrow I'm not using that guy any more. I don't even see what the purpose of lying about replacing a tie rod?


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When a measurement is in a red block it is out of range. He did get the front toe within range.

How many miles are on your 5th Gen?
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Old 06-28-2012, 03:20 PM   #129
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26,000

so this alignment is ok?


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Old 06-28-2012, 03:21 PM   #130
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26,000

so this alignment is ok?


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How hard do you drive your 5th Gen? Do you road course or autocross?
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Old 06-28-2012, 03:33 PM   #131
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eh sorry not familiar with those terms, do you mean if I drive in manual mode or auto?


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Old 06-28-2012, 03:54 PM   #132
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eh sorry not familiar with those terms, do you mean if I drive in manual mode or auto?


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I mean driving on a race track or racing around cones in a parking lot. Based on your answer the alignment is sloppy and out of spec in three areas.



I am guessing when I say it appears the front camber was not adjusted. At 27K your tie rods should be fine. When doing an alignment on a 5th Gen it is best to do a caster sweep even though caster is not adjustable. When setting the steering wheel straight with the 'clamp' I like the tech to run the engine and turn the wheels side to side a couple of times before setting it.

The left front cambers in -1.1 degrees while the right front cambers out +0.2 degrees. For street driving and long tire life they should both camber in -0.5 to -0.75 degrees. They should match side to side.

In the rear, the right camber is out of spec on the right side. It should be dialed back in -0.8

Finally while the thrust angle is 0.11 and green, the left rear toe is out of spec. The rear toe should be set IN at 0.10 per side.

Feel free to print this and take it back to your Dealer. They may not like what they see, but they will know you are double checking the work they do.
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Old 06-28-2012, 03:55 PM   #133
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oh noooo I don't race it, I'm just trying to reach V6 OEM specs.


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Old 06-28-2012, 03:59 PM   #134
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and I hit a hit a big pothole that cracked the rim, and later it was determined that I needed a new inner tie rod from that encounter. because since then they have'nt been able to align it properly. so once I told them to replace the tie rod today, this is the alignment they managed. but I marked my tie rod and it looks like they didn't change it at all.

so I posted my new alignment to make sure this is no where near v6 oem
specs.


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Old 06-28-2012, 04:03 PM   #135
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and I hit a hit a big pothole that cracked the rim, and later it was determined that I needed a new inner tie rod from that encounter. because since then they have'nt been able to align it properly. so once I told them to replace the tie rod today, this is the alignment they managed. but I marked my tie rod and it looks like they didn't change it at all.

so I posted my new alignment to make sure this is no where near v6 oem
specs.


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They were able to align the toe so I am guessing without seeing the inner tie rod is good to go. The other elements of the alignment have nothing to do with the a replaced or not replaced tie rod. Knowing that you hit a monster pot hole we do want to see a caster reading.
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Old 06-28-2012, 04:16 PM   #136
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yeah why is the caster not shown? is that suspiciously odd? why would it greyed out.

my previous caster reading from the last alignment is actually posted on the earlier pages. it reads:

Left-5.7
Right- 5.9
that's how it was before this alignment.


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