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Old 12-31-2011, 06:00 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxdmax View Post
I just finished up installing the Melling HV 10296 oil pump. Test drove the car about 25 miles and it seems OK at this point. I apparently am a one of the lucky ones this time!
You can see the stuck valve in the oil pump from the back, its a comon issue for LS pumps. Or pull the plug the spring will fall out, if the cup wont come out with a magnet its stuck.
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Old 01-01-2012, 07:02 AM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yotaman96 View Post
How many miles were on your car when the pump went out?
My car has right at 30,000 miles on it.

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Originally Posted by POWERFREAK View Post
anyone know if there's a certain vin # range that's been affected? or should we all just hope ours don't fail?
My car is one of the RPO cars and a pretty low vin 12,XXX

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nmbr1gmfan View Post
You can see the stuck valve in the oil pump from the back, its a comon issue for LS pumps. Or pull the plug the spring will fall out, if the cup wont come out with a magnet its stuck.
OH yea it was stuck, a magnet would not budge it. I had to push it out through the other side to get it loose. The sad thing you can not see any reason for it being stuck like that. The oil looked great and there was nothing I could see to make it do this. The new pump seems to have about 10 psi more pressure than the old pump!

I think there are a few lessons on this. First use a good grade synthetic oil, this may have saved my motor. My pump stuck exactly like the TSB stated drove the car, let it cool for a short period then it stuck. It was started 4 or 5 times trying to diagnose for less than 5 seconds, believe your eyes keep the starts to a minimum and just replace the pump, it is a good idea anyway. Look at your DIC every time you first start your car, I just happened to be looking right at it and shut it off in about 2 or 3 seconds and called a rollback. After my experience with the dealer if you car is highly modded it is probably too much for the dealer anyway. They would have never understood how to put the pinned crank pulley back on and I would have gotten another GM oil pump. I tried to tell them, but when they heard the Maggie back toothed belt they thought it was main bearings. LOL Just take a day and fix it if you have the tools and know how or take it to someone that you trust to do the job.
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Old 01-12-2012, 04:16 PM   #103
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Forgive me if this has already been covered, but if I see the oil warning come on, I am normally going to stop the engine right away and tow it to the dealer. Since it seems that GM is not recalling for this oil pump issue, am I to conclude that if my oil pump freezes up and the low oil light comes on, there's no need to shut the engine off, i.e., no danger of frying the engine?? That would not make sense. It must be that GM is only going to replace the pump in cases where the light comes on and if you don't shut your engine off and it fries, that's your problem. Am I understanding this correctly then?
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Old 01-12-2012, 04:22 PM   #104
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Guess I don't have to worry about that anymore, engine blew already and replaced.
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Old 01-12-2012, 05:06 PM   #105
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Would it be a good idea for people with a 2010 Camaro SS that is not stock in anyform whether NA or FI to get an aftermarket pump instead of "hoping" the GM will last? Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated... I would rather just replace the GM with an aftermarket (I see people mention Melling...I guess they are good huh? lol)

Thanks!
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Old 01-12-2012, 11:47 PM   #106
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Would it be a good idea for people with a 2010 Camaro SS that is not stock in anyform whether NA or FI to get an aftermarket pump instead of "hoping" the GM will last? Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated... I would rather just replace the GM with an aftermarket (I see people mention Melling...I guess they are good huh? lol)

Thanks!
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Old 01-21-2012, 12:03 PM   #107
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Had the same thing happen a week ago after I parked for about 45min
and tried to start it (btw: 2011 1ss). Had a flatbed comeout to drop it off at the dealer. Tow truck driver was a douche and told me there's nothing
wrong with it, except a sensor. I told him not to start it to get it on the
truck...he said there's no issue in starting it since it's only a sensor.
When I started pushing it to the back of his tow truck, he got the drift.
I even wrote a note and taped it on the steering wheel stating "don't start, no oil pressure". btw, It ran for about 2 seconds before I turned it off after hearing the alarm.

So the dealer calls me the next day and says "after diagnosing your car, it looks like the oil pump is at fault and the motor is very loud. We'll know more when we pull the head off the driver's side" Next day they call and
say "Your motor is beyond repair, we will be ordering a new engine from GM...It'll take a better part of week to 10 days to finish"

I bet the tow truck driver started it up when he got to the dealer.
Anyway, I'm thankful they're fixing it. They did tell me they have never
heard of any problem like this before...
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Old 01-21-2012, 04:34 PM   #108
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so annoying when someone tells you nothing is wrong when really they dont know what they are talking about. now you need a new motor .

ya i feel this oil pump issue is on the uncommon list of things to happen for the most part. but still it seems a decent amount of people here talk about it.
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Old 01-22-2012, 11:57 PM   #109
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Failure

Add me to the list of pump failure. Ran fine the day prior next day on start up no pressure. Check ball stuck open per the dealer.
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Old 01-23-2012, 12:22 AM   #110
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Do any of you that suffered oil pump failure also have a Catch Can? If so, did you have an unusually large amount of oil captured? I'm having to empty my CC (Elite Engineering) every 500 miles.
Just looking to see if there is a correlation.
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Old 01-23-2012, 05:55 PM   #111
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pump

No catch can here, car is back on the road no weird sounds or issues. Its another check ball failure that dropped this pump.
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Old 01-23-2012, 08:43 PM   #112
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Amazing how one of the most vital components of the engine fails with such low miles...happened to me idling in the garage...swapped with the Melling 10296.

If you do switch to the melling, I was told by GM Customer Service that no engine gaskets are covered under warranty now because the increase in oil pressure from the pump...Riiiigggghhhht...thats why my oil cooler gasket started leaking...all because of the melling pump...
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Old 02-16-2012, 03:47 AM   #113
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fuackkkk! I am going to be doing Full Bolton with a Cam & Tune (So no more warranty) and was asking over on ls1tech if I really needed the oil pump I ordered (melling HP) I'v used 2 melling on other fbods but this is the brand spanking LS3 so I had to ask.. lucky someone posted this for me to see!

I got my car with 11k on it and it got this famous NO OIL PRESSURE THING probably with 16-17k? anyways i cut it off naturally got out checked the oil and underneath for leaks nothing so I started it a few times to see if it was a fluke like the OP Sender going out.. anyways the car gave me the warning for a little while and showed 0 PSI on the Gauge. No noises at all completely smooth (just your normal ol' LSX light tick as before) eventually it all came back to life so I assumed since the problem was intermittent it would be damn near pointless to bring it to Chevy anyways because warranty always = we found nothing wrong come back when it repeats.. BTW the car now has 24k (might be 25k) on it

Should I worry at this point? most of those miles since I bought the car (ok all ) are WOT pretty much banging rev limiter burning off or shifting at redline I do notice after oil hits (50-60% life or black) the car does start ticking a bit with the broke down oil and as soon as I put new 10-30 she's happy.. also I have been running lucas every change except one Im pretty sure I had lucas in it when that oil pressure problem occurred

Now my question is i'm screwed right ? if it blows up later due to this which I think it HIGHLY unlikely due to how long its been and that im still driving it but if its not posing a problem atm and the cars working fine its going to be a tough one. What are they inspecting for engine damage? I saw somewhere in this thread the oil pan I believe?

Last edited by Gun5; 02-16-2012 at 04:54 AM.
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Old 08-25-2012, 04:05 PM   #114
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Add me to the list too......

11,425 miles on the odometer, 45 mph 3000 rpm, went to shift, the traffic light changed so I clutched it and rolled to the stop and ding ding ding.

Shut her down and called a roll back, I have it at my house. Researching a fix I find this thread. Now to shop for a Melling. Advance Auto has a 295, is a 296 better????

Here is my edit, a 10296 is better for the ls3, more volume and not pressure.
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Old 08-28-2012, 09:21 AM   #115
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2nd Pump

It is appearing that my replacement oil pump is crappingout also.

Had low pressure (down to 15) and dropped lifters so car is out of comission and need to pull heads and maybe another pump.

Great quality chevy .... :-/
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Old 10-21-2012, 02:07 AM   #116
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Mine went out a couple weeks ago. Haven't messed with it and definitely not taking it to the dealer.
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Old 11-26-2012, 04:36 PM   #117
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ADD ME TO THE LIST!!!!
AT LEAST I MADE IT TO 50,000 MILES!!!
BUT, STILL, ITS A COMPLETLEY PAID FOR 40,000$ CAR!!
WTF!! I USUALLY GIVE PEOPLE HELL FOR SAYING THINGS LIKE"IM TRADING IT IN FOR A MUSTANG" BUT DAMN I AM TIRED OF THESE PROBLEMS!!!

WEAK DRIVELINE!!!
POOR CLUTCH HYDRAULICS!!
OIL PUMP FAILURE!! RREALLY?!?!??

I NEED YALLS HELP...I DRIVE MINE AS A DD...AND I AM GONNA REPLACE THE PUMP SO I CAN GET BACK ON THE ROAD...NO TIME FOR UPGRADING TO MELLING OR LETTING DEALER MESS WITH IT...I DONT GOT TIME TO PAY FOR BREAKDOWN/DIAGNOSIS/ FIGHT WITH THEM TO FIX IT UNDER WARRANTY...EVEN THOUGH ITS OBVIOUSLY A FAULTY CHEAP ASS PART!!! IM DOING IT MYSELF GOT THE WATER PUMP AND EVERYTHING OFF...BUT NEED TO KNOW IF I CAN DO IT BY LOWERING THE OIL PAN SLIGHTLY..I DO NOT WANT TO PULL THE MOTOR...I HAVE TO GET THIS THING RUNNING ASAP!! PLEASE HELP I ALREADY GOT THE 100$ PART NOW THE LABOR...SO DUMB..100$ PIECE OF CRAP PART...MUCHO LABOR TIME!!! THANKS GM...WHERES THE GM REPS AT????
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Old 11-26-2012, 04:36 PM   #118
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It is appearing that my replacement oil pump is crappingout also.

Had low pressure (down to 15) and dropped lifters so car is out of comission and need to pull heads and maybe another pump.

Great quality chevy .... :-/
IM DREADING THIS WILL BE ME SOON...
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Old 05-02-2013, 04:46 PM   #119
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I have a 2013 1LE with 5063 miles and just fell victim to this problem. Almost 3 years later and they haven't properly fixed it!!!!

Having to have the oil pump replaced.
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Old 07-01-2013, 12:48 AM   #120
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My 2nd pump just failed today. I had 30 PSI consistently on the drive before then parked the car for about an hour and as soon as I start it up, "LOW OIL PRESSURE" and the gauge is at 0 PSI. Has anyone had more than 1 pump replaced?
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Old 07-01-2013, 11:04 AM   #121
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Also, how much damage is being done to the rest of the engine when these fail? With this being my 2nd failure, I can't help but be concerned about bearing damage and/or failure......
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Old 07-01-2013, 11:09 AM   #122
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Also, how much damage is being done to the rest of the engine when these fail? With this being my 2nd failure, I can't help but be concerned about bearing damage and/or failure......

Depends on how long it ran w/ no oil pressure. If it was shut down immediately, it should be OK. If it ran long enough to hear some things-a-knocking...there may be some damage.
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Old 07-01-2013, 11:13 AM   #123
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I guess we won't know until the new pump is in and it get's fired back up
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Old 07-01-2013, 09:01 PM   #124
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Well you're in luck if you weren't driving. Should be ok. Myself it happened on the road and by then too late. Spun two bearings, metal shavings in the pan etc.etc.

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Old 07-01-2013, 11:29 PM   #125
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Did they replace your motor?
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