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Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing Discussions on mechanical maintenance and servicing of your Camaro

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Old 04-09-2010, 07:35 PM   #1
Jarhead
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Rear Diff Oil Change @ 2465 Miles

Hello all, I have attempted to document what I found when I changed my Rear Diff Fluid. I will begin with posting pictures and a brief narrative of my findings. These pics were taken with my cell phone, not bad considering. I did not attempt to show the actual procedures of the fluid change, just what was found in the oil/on drain plugs.

The process I followed is as follows:

-Before and After pics of Filter used.
-Location of Drain and Fill plugs.
-Draining the fluid.
-Drain Plugs after Removal. (For Identification the upper plug seal is raised on the plug.)
-Drain Plugs after being Cleaned.
-Filter right after draining.
-Old Oil
-Particles found in filter.

Pics of the filter before being used.



Drain Plug Locations: Drivers side of Diff.

Lower First then Fill Plug.









Draining the Diff




Plugs After being Removed



Filter Right after draining



Upper plug Gunk





Lower Plug Gunk





Filter after drain 5 min Wait time.



Old Oil, Looks very nasty and dirty,





Mileage at time of change.



Based upon my findings I conclude that the fluid is very nasty in appearance and that it was not highly contaminated with metal particles.
Other than a few very small metal shavings I did not discover a high amount of any particulate matter.

After cleaning with brake parts cleaner I discovered about 7-8 tiny slivers, actually much less than I anticipated to find.

Please feel free to ask any questions. I will be screening the gunk off the plugs via a coffee filter to see what I find there.

I hope that this helps!
Robert
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Old 04-09-2010, 08:11 PM   #2
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Very nice write up man, I'd been waiting for someone to do the fluid change and take pictures with a filter. Kudos to you and I will definitely be doing mine within the next 500 or so (sitting at just over 1,300 right now).
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Old 04-10-2010, 04:57 AM   #3
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The fluid was odd colored from the set up paste they used at the factory. It would not have caused any grief.

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Old 04-14-2010, 12:35 PM   #4
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This is straight from a GM bulletin which should be available at your GM dealership. Just ask the service manager.

“American Axle uses a white or yellow gear “rouge” or marking compound when the tooth contact pattern on the gear is inspected. The white marking compound in particular colors the fluid a milky or semi-metallic gray, … the coloring only lasts between 1,000 and 5,000 miles and then the fluid appears normal. If the customer does not comment of any noise concerns please do not attempt any repairs for the discolored fluid on vehicles under 5,000 miles..."


That all said I still plan to change mine around the 1500 mile mark to get the oil and any slivers of metal out of the rear end while still early in its life.

I do like some of the tips that I have read so far on how to change the fluid. I will be looking for the pump to help get the fluid into the case.

Not sure which fluid I will be using, that research is still on going.

Good luck to all those who change their own fluid.
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Old 04-14-2010, 01:13 PM   #5
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Changed mine at 12K and did not look bad or have much metal in it. Did stink though.
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Old 05-02-2010, 01:25 PM   #6
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Thanks ! I am in the process of changing mine right now.
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Old 05-02-2010, 09:39 PM   #7
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the posi friction material can also make the oil look shiny like metalic paint. if there anent large metal pieces, i wouldnt worry too much. the gunk on the plug magnets is also common. but nice to see someone who cares enough to change the oil so early. :-) what oil did you replace it with?
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Old 05-03-2010, 02:57 AM   #8
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Not as bad as I thought it was going to be, thanks for the pics.
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Old 05-03-2010, 07:24 AM   #9
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Went royal purple
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Old 05-03-2010, 01:06 PM   #10
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Replaced mine at 500 miles with Royal Purple. My plugs looked just like yours and color of diff fluid was the same. A hand pump worked wonders to get the fluid into the rear.
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Old 05-03-2010, 08:42 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gearhead440 View Post
Replaced mine at 500 miles with Royal Purple. My plugs looked just like yours and color of diff fluid was the same. A hand pump worked wonders to get the fluid into the rear.
After I let it sit for a few days the sediment on the bottom was unreal. I poured it out and there was a layer of sludge like covering the bottom. The best description is it looked like an oil slick covered the bottom of the pan.

I'm real glad that I changed it.
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Old 05-06-2010, 07:26 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mojave View Post
Went royal purple
what's the part # Or what he label say?
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Old 05-07-2010, 07:36 AM   #13
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I havent had a chance to get under there and check mine out.. but how do you get the new fluid in there? Is there a special funnel or pressure gun you'd need since its under the car?
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Old 05-07-2010, 08:21 AM   #14
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Try this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gearhead440 View Post
Replaced mine at 500 miles with Royal Purple. My plugs looked just like yours and color of diff fluid was the same. A hand pump worked wonders to get the fluid into the rear.
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Old 05-07-2010, 10:10 AM   #15
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After reading this and other similar threads, I went ahead and changed out my tranny and rear diff fluids. This is WELL worth the $ and time!!!

Initial perceptions after tranny fluid change (used Mobil 1 ATF Dex III):
Shifting is SO MUCH smoother. I feel much more comfortable with my shifts and no longer have to occasionally 'try to find the gear'; it falls into gear now.

Initial perceptions after diff fluid change (used Royal Purple max-gear):
I can tell the friction in rear end is DRAMATICALLY reduced. Most noticeable during decel. It has somehow reduced the popping on decel also. I have LT headers and before the decel popping was comparable in sound to a backfire. Now it does it much less and at lower volume. I consider this to be an improvement. If I put it in neutral I can coast for days.

This was my first time to ever change these fluids. A few lessons I learned:
1. A hand pump is an absolute necessity for these jobs. Got mine at Autozone. It had a tip on the end that locks into the hole. A very nice feature!
2. If you use RP in the diff, get 2 quarts. Since the friction modifier is already in there you need just a bit more than 1 quart to completely fill it back up.
3. When draining the tranny oil, don't expect it to fall straight down out of the hole. There is quite a bit of fluid in there and it is going to shoot out at first. I recommend centering your drain pan underneath the exhaust pipe.
4. If you use Mobil 1 tranny fluid, don't be thrown off by the bottle. It says it is for automatics and it says it is for older model cars. But, it is definitely the right stuff for the M6. The M6 loves the Mobil 1 ATF Dex III.

All in all, a pretty straight forward task. It took me about 2 hours. And cost about $50. Just thought I'd share...
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Old 05-07-2010, 06:36 PM   #16
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Does anybody have the torque spec on the drain/fill plug?
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Old 05-07-2010, 07:50 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtzako View Post
I havent had a chance to get under there and check mine out.. but how do you get the new fluid in there? Is there a special funnel or pressure gun you'd need since its under the car?
I used one of these (Model A - had it for years) and it worked out great. Attached a 2 ft 3/8" clear hose to the end and watched the gear oil flow right in. Need an air compressor to use it.
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Old 05-07-2010, 07:56 PM   #18
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very interesting.
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Old 05-07-2010, 11:35 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtzako View Post
I havent had a chance to get under there and check mine out.. but how do you get the new fluid in there? Is there a special funnel or pressure gun you'd need since its under the car?
No need for a pump; there's clearance in the rear suspension to tilt the plastic bottle so that the output is lower than the bottom of the bottle. Then you sqeeze the bottle to put the fluid in I used Royal Purple.
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Old 05-08-2010, 08:31 PM   #20
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I just changed mine today. 2300 Miles. I went with RP. I drove my Camaro onto my home made ramps and then removed the top plug first (this is done to make sure you can fill it up after you drain the fluid.) Here is the TIP OF THE WEEK. After I thought it was done draining I figured there had to be some more still in there since the car was sitting level side to side. I got my floor jack out and jacked the front passenger corner up until the tire was a few inches off the ground. The rear diff started to pour allot more out of the system. Those who do not do this are not getting the entire old fluid out. By the way another TIP OF THE WEEK (from someone else this time) place a hockey puck between the jack and the Camaro jacking point, this prevents the metal from being abused. Once it was done draining I replaced the lower plug and proceeded to fill the top side using a hand pump I purchased on eBay.

Good Luck
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Old 05-09-2010, 02:20 PM   #21
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that is very very normal for a tranny that only has not even 3k on the clock, one would expect some resedue from the breaking in period, however keep watching it and make sure it doesnt continue to look like this after 5k

something to keep in mind is the fluid type you use, you can be at an advantage by using good fluids fully synthetics , look at their data, how well they passed all the testing that the lovely government posses on them, like Falex testing, 4 wear ball testing ect...
make sure the fluid can keep it together under heat cycles, many fluids start breaking down farely quick you dont notice it but your pocket will after a while, might not take 20k but maybe 40k and boom you find yourself in the hole.

id reccomend Redline over royal purple all day long, Redline actually tested better than RP in all areas, royal puple has a great marketing group, they for some reason seem to be very well at marketing but their oils stink, not even in the imports scene we use them that much therefore iam suprised at how much we see it used in the muscle car scene.
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Old 05-09-2010, 04:45 PM   #22
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“American Axle uses a white or yellow gear “rouge” or marking compound when the tooth contact pattern on the gear is inspected. The white marking compound in particular colors the fluid a milky or semi-metallic gray, … the coloring only lasts between 1,000 and 5,000 miles and then the fluid appears normal. If the customer does not comment of any noise concerns please do not attempt any repairs for the discolored fluid on vehicles under 5,000 miles..."


Affirmative on the AAM rouge
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Old 05-10-2010, 09:43 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenji View Post
Does anybody have the torque spec on the drain/fill plug?

Spec directly from service manual:

Auto trans oil level check plug 18 ft lbs

Manual Drain plug 27 ft lbs
Fill plug 27 ft lbs

Rear Drain plug 24 ft lbs
Fill plug 24 ft lbs
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Old 05-12-2010, 07:38 AM   #24
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I changed my rear diff at 200 miles, looked just as cruddy. That's just the nature of clutch type LSD diffs. They shed tons of clutch material. It only takes a couple hundred miles for the oil to look like grey mud.
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Old 05-13-2010, 09:19 AM   #25
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My car just recently rolled over 4,000 miles so I bought some RP yesterday to change the fluid. Plan on getting it done today. Just a random thought.. My Dad had an '05 GTO and when he changed his and put RP in, it still had a "chatter" to it and we had to end up getting the additive from the dealership and put in along with RP to stop it. Will the Camaro be similar or does anyone know yet?
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