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Old 04-15-2010, 11:20 AM   #1
Treefrog
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overheating amp

and it cuts off to cool down. Prolly means I need a bigger amp? I have 12inch sub in a ******** box and bought that Quartz amp from his site.. Think maybe 300w.. That bitch gets hawwwt! though.. hehe I don't really rattle the car going down the road but I do like my music.. hehe

What do you guys think?
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Old 04-15-2010, 11:29 AM   #2
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Could be a couple things, first thing I would check is the ohm rating on the sub and the amp. Maybe someone with more knowledge can help but that is my first guess.
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Old 04-15-2010, 11:49 AM   #3
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Tape your wires... often times the amps shut off because two wires touch. make sure they are completely taped and arent jumping a spark from remote to grnd...
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Old 04-15-2010, 12:37 PM   #4
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how long before it get too hot and shuts down?

if it plays at all it is not the power wiring. but it does sound like you have it wired at a resistance that is too low for the amp to run stable.
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Old 04-15-2010, 12:42 PM   #5
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I would check the ohm rating on the sub. As also check where you have your amp located, if it can "breathe".
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Old 04-15-2010, 01:24 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IAS View Post
how long before it get too hot and shuts down?

if it plays at all it is not the power wiring. but it does sound like you have it wired at a resistance that is too low for the amp to run stable.



OP, post the specs on the sub and the amp. We need to know coil impedence as well as the amp's ratings.


If sub/amp are impendence matched, make sure you have enough wire. What gauge did you use to wire up the amp? Where is your ground located?

I, too, think it's an impedence problem. But we will cover all the bases, just in case, lol.
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Old 04-15-2010, 02:35 PM   #7
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thx guys for the replies..

I think this is my amp
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...rt_DSC280.aspx

and my speaker
http://********.com/product_info.php...roducts_id=123

it did fine thru the winter but with hotter temps it will play for about 20mins.. It does get pretty hot as I've felt it.. I have the gain turned up maybe 2/3-3/4 but have a remote volume that rarely will be turned up past halfway.

oh yea..I have the speaker bridged on the amp.. One channel pos and other chan neg..

Can't recall how I hooked up the speaker.. but a 4ohm sub is a 4ohm sub, right? If it had 2 sets of connects, could I have hooked it up to 2ohms? It hits pretty hard for a single.. I think its just the quality of the box..
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Old 04-15-2010, 02:41 PM   #8
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What size wire gauge do you have, and where is ground located.
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Old 04-15-2010, 03:03 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Teccboxx View Post
What size wire gauge do you have, and where is ground located.
16 gauge for the speakers and maybe 4gauge for the power.. I think hooked the ground to the battery.. But Im not certain.. I'll have to ck that.. I might have hooked it in the trunk somewhere..
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Old 04-15-2010, 03:59 PM   #10
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thx guys for the replies..

I think this is my amp
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...rt_DSC280.aspx

and my speaker
http://********.com/product_info.php...roducts_id=123

it did fine thru the winter but with hotter temps it will play for about 20mins.. It does get pretty hot as I've felt it.. I have the gain turned up maybe 2/3-3/4 but have a remote volume that rarely will be turned up past halfway.

oh yea..I have the speaker bridged on the amp.. One channel pos and other chan neg..

Can't recall how I hooked up the speaker.. but a 4ohm sub is a 4ohm sub, right? If it had 2 sets of connects, could I have hooked it up to 2ohms? It hits pretty hard for a single.. I think its just the quality of the box..


Wrong sub. Dual 4 ohm, wired parallel with be 2ohms. So if that's what you have, and that's how it's wired, that's the problem. You are overdrivng the amp. You need a single 4ohm or a dual 2ohm sub wired is series, and you'll be fine.
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Old 04-17-2010, 10:55 AM   #11
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Not trying to sell the product, but i've got 2 Alpine PDX amps in my Colorado and 1 that will be going in the Camaro. They never get hot and the power rating is TRUE rms. Actually they come with the bench test cert in the box. The PDX 1000.1 sub amp actually tested 1147 amps rms. It's pushing two Pioneer 10" subs and never gets hot plus they take up half the space of other OVERRATED amps. They cost more but they do deliver.
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Old 04-17-2010, 12:00 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrray13 View Post
Wrong sub. Dual 4 ohm, wired parallel with be 2ohms. So if that's what you have, and that's how it's wired, that's the problem. You are overdrivng the amp. You need a single 4ohm or a dual 2ohm sub wired is series, and you'll be fine.
Looks like the amp is only 320watt and the Sub is 400watt.

In theory even 10 gauge wire would be enough to power 320watt. Specially if it is wired real close to the battery in the trunk.

Anyhow, I agree with your assessment.
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Old 04-17-2010, 03:41 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CWIweldace View Post
Not trying to sell the product, but i've got 2 Alpine PDX amps in my Colorado and 1 that will be going in the Camaro. They never get hot and the power rating is TRUE rms. Actually they come with the bench test cert in the box. The PDX 1000.1 sub amp actually tested 1147 amps rms. It's pushing two Pioneer 10" subs and never gets hot plus they take up half the space of other OVERRATED amps. They cost more but they do deliver.

The amps power rating will have nothing to do with this. If your sub and amp are wired up with the correct, matching impedance, then the amp won't overheat. Well, it shoudln't, unless you are clipping the hell out of it trying to be the loudest guy on the block. Or youhave it shoved in a hole with no air.


Quote:
Originally Posted by skuttduck View Post
Looks like the amp is only 320watt and the Sub is 400watt.

In theory even 10 gauge wire would be enough to power 320watt. Specially if it is wired real close to the battery in the trunk.

Anyhow, I agree with your assessment.

I would never use 10g, even if it is supposed to handle it, lol. That's speaker wire! 8 gauge minimum, and in this case with the battery in the trunk, I wouldn't be afraid to run it.


The subs power rating won't matter in this case either. It's voice coil configuration will. A power rating is a good estimate for what it can handle thermally, and even then, only look at the RMS rating. Peak is bs.
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Old 04-17-2010, 05:19 PM   #14
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Lets say I did hook up the sub for a 2ohm configuration.. I can just hook up one of the 4ohm channels to have a 4ohm configuration, right? Even if its a dual voice coil? That just gives you the option of 2 or 4ohm connects, right?
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