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Old 05-11-2010, 10:54 PM   #1

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Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS
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Location: Lincoln Nebraska
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O2 Sensor removal confusion

i am going to be installing my new Kooks headers in the next couple of days. I have been doing alot of research and i have found that most peeps are in 100% agreement that i need to use a penetrating oil and a pattern of screwing in and out (not a pun.......but funny) while adding some penetrating oil. The confusion is whether to do it while the exhaust / bung area is warm or cold. I dont want to destroy them when i remove em......Thoughts?
2010 IOM SS/RS LS3, Hennessey HPE550 Polished Magnuson TVS2300 Supercharger. 3.4 Pulley. Kooks long tube headers / high flow cats. GHL Full exhaust. ZL1 Fuel Pump/ADM FPCM. MSW Bap. JRE ZL1 Race cam with new springs/pushrods/Trunion Upgrade. FIC 850cc injectors. ZR1 Map sensor. CAI Induction. JRE Tune.
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Old 05-12-2010, 08:14 AM   #2
Russell James

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I cracked mine loose while hot right after a drive. They popped right loose and turned out by hand. The day before I put a little penetrating oil on them.

Heat normally helps things loosen.

If they weren't cross threaded when put in, they should spin right out easy after cracked loose. A cresent wrench was all I needed.
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Old 05-12-2010, 09:06 AM   #3
Search Ninja
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Drives: 2010 Black 2SS/RS A6
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Location: Central Ark
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Originally Posted by Chief Blackhawk View Post
Just take a wrench and loosen it. Its not magical and its not a 10yr old car. They come right out.
There are numerous people that would disagree with you. They SHOULD come right out but several have had to buy new ones.
2010 Black 2SS/RS A6
Halltech CF 102 fed
GPI modded intake manifold
Bo (knows) White ported TB
Kooks LT's/ Dynomax VT
Pfadted (springs/sways)
Dyno tuned by Rhino and GPI

I once parallel parked a train.
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Old 05-12-2010, 09:15 AM   #4

Drives: 87 Pinto on 32's
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Mine were soaked for 2 days with oil....try it...nothing. Got a torch, heated it... nothing.

Finally heated the shit outta it and while someone else cranked.... out it came!!

Good Luck!!
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