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Old 01-17-2011, 02:39 PM   #126
BowlingSS
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I read most of this thread. I am thinking of getting a stall for my 2011 A6. I had a 3500 stall on my 01 D/D and I loved it. It make it more fun to drive IMO.

I just wished I could replace it myself in my garage.

My advice to anyone is to get one. You will not regret it. You will need to get a tune or at least I had to tune mine on the 2001 Camaro.

Good luck.

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Old 01-17-2011, 02:53 PM   #127
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Originally Posted by BowlingSS View Post
I read most of this thread. I am thinking of getting a stall for my 2011 A6. I had a 3500 stall on my 01 D/D and I loved it. It make it more fun to drive IMO.

I just wished I could replace it myself in my garage.

My advice to anyone is to get one. You will not regret it. You will need to get a tune or at least I had to tune mine on the 2001 Camaro.

Good luck.

Bill
Well I've pulled my tranny three times now and have not had any major issues. It is a big/heavy tranny, but the process is still the same. The toughest part was removing the rorque converter bolts.
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Old 01-18-2011, 11:04 AM   #128
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I've gained .5 with a 3500 stall unlocked. I still see too low of an RPM after shift completion so the next converter will be a looser 4000 stall. My goal is to see no more than a 1000 RPM drop after the shift. My tuning strategy with a custom converter will have the 4K converter feeling more like a 2500K for part throttle driving. Currently my 3500K feels really nice with the tune I'm running. The converter is built with special friction material designed for continuous slip (just like stock) so I apply it with a min psi value at 10MPH while managing the slip with desired slip tables. I don't fully lock it until 35MPH which makes for great drivability and pretty darn good fuel economy for my stall.
It seems that will be about the range you need to go. My 3800 and my brother's 4000 were pretty much the same shift extension, and we had like an 800 RPM drop. It think it was the sweet-spot for LS1 - at least out cars. It was easy enough to drive around town on 3.23s. I didn't have the lock-up changed much though. I think the general lock-up MPH was dropped about three MPH and that was about it. I was always careful, though, to feel for it, because this converter wasn't designed for continuous slip. I had all of the other little tranny tuning bits done, too, and NO TM. I didn't know about the continuous slip of the newer trannys though - thanks for the info'

Quote:
Originally Posted by BowlingSS View Post
I read most of this thread. I am thinking of getting a stall for my 2011 A6. I had a 3500 stall on my 01 D/D and I loved it. It make it more fun to drive IMO.

I just wished I could replace it myself in my garage.

My advice to anyone is to get one. You will not regret it. You will need to get a tune or at least I had to tune mine on the 2001 Camaro.

Good luck.

Bill
I replaced two converters (4th Gens.) in my garage on jack stands. Neither was fun, lol. I won't be doing that for a while!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wacker View Post
Well I've pulled my tranny three times now and have not had any major issues. It is a big/heavy tranny, but the process is still the same. The toughest part was removing the rorque converter bolts.
A tranny jack or adapter goes a long ways, IMO. I think the adapter goes for about $50, no? Like you said, though, it's pretty straight forward - just a big job.
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Old 01-18-2011, 08:47 PM   #129
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I did have a lift and tranny jack Those two go a long way...
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Old 01-19-2011, 10:04 AM   #130
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I did have a lift and tranny jack Those two go a long way...
H3LL YEAH, THEY DO, but it's still a major job
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Old 03-19-2011, 04:10 PM   #131
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Hey wacker, are you saying that it's not a gd idea to do a converter on a stock 6l80? I've also been told, buy a great tuner, that the converter us plug and play and nothing in my tune needs to be touched. My converter should be here any day and now you got me thinking.
Iam thinking of buying that same covertor I dont want to spend more on a tune .I have $ 2000.00 in tunes now tired of paying for tunes every mod I get
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Old 07-02-2011, 09:47 PM   #132
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I don't agree with all of the posters who swear by their converters/tunes. My car was quicker with the stock converter than with the FTI 2800 which has been tuned and retuned by 2 different tuners! Still clunks at times when down shifting and although seems better off of the line, the 2-3 and 3-4 shifts are no where as quick or as firm. BTY, have all of you been able to retain the throttle blip when down shifting using the paddles? I've been told that goes away once you remove the stock converter.
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Old 07-03-2011, 12:50 PM   #133
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What part of FL are you in? Contact Phil of Tampa Tuning and he can optimize the trans tune for the converter.

I have sold & installed hundreds of FTI's over the years and use them exclusively in our LS powered drag cars and have also used most other big names in the past (as we have multiple Divisonal, National, and World championships in several classes both NHRA & IHRA) and have never had less than a 4-5 tenths improvement over stock in the 1/4 mile....and most we have 5-7 tenths improvement so something has to be wrong. We have also had zero failures and that is with more abuse than 90% of most converter cars.

PM me if you want help to determine whats wrong.....thats the only thing it could be.
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Old 07-26-2011, 10:04 PM   #134
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YANK 3600...WOW
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Old 12-15-2011, 11:05 AM   #135
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I don't agree with all of the posters who swear by their converters/tunes. My car was quicker with the stock converter than with the FTI 2800 which has been tuned and retuned by 2 different tuners! Still clunks at times when down shifting and although seems better off of the line, the 2-3 and 3-4 shifts are no where as quick or as firm. BTY, have all of you been able to retain the throttle blip when down shifting using the paddles? I've been told that goes away once you remove the stock converter.
Bad tune...
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Old 12-16-2011, 05:22 AM   #136
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Im a newb when it comes to converters. I notice all the people getting higher than stock stall converters have more than bolt ons. Would a say a 2800 to 3000 stall converter be worth it for a SS with full bolt ons? Would it still drive like stock without having that "slipping" feeling with stop and go traffic?
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Old 12-16-2011, 08:14 AM   #137
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Im a newb when it comes to converters. I notice all the people getting higher than stock stall converters have more than bolt ons. Would a say a 2800 to 3000 stall converter be worth it for a SS with full bolt ons? Would it still drive like stock without having that "slipping" feeling with stop and go traffic?
Todays lock-up stall converters are not like the loose race converters of the past. If properly built/configured you will hardley notice (most wives don't) a 3600 stall FTI until you put your foot in it, and then it is a completely different beast. One of the best mods period for improved acceleration hands down with or without ANY other mods.

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Old 12-16-2011, 08:47 AM   #138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlgreen View Post
Im a newb when it comes to converters. I notice all the people getting higher than stock stall converters have more than bolt ons. Would a say a 2800 to 3000 stall converter be worth it for a SS with full bolt ons? Would it still drive like stock without having that "slipping" feeling with stop and go traffic?
One of the benefits of our Protorque converters is they are Seemless but also worth 1/2 second at the track Providing you have Tires that can handle the Extra Torque Multiplication.

Lose converter can give you a feeling of driving through the Mud around town if not built properly for your specific application.

Don't Purchase converters base on advertised Stall Speed because it can vary up to 1000 RPM based on Input torque.

Each Converter Must Be Built for your specific Power Level.

Ted.
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Old 12-16-2011, 09:31 AM   #139
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Around 2800-3200 stall is your best bet for street driving. 3600 is getting up there unless you do it after running a 3200. From stock to 3600 is very noticable. I throw the stocker in every once in a while so I can remember how tight it is. I run a test mule 4500 now (very loose compared to stock) but I apply the clutch from second on to increase drivability. The converter is built to do this so don't do it with anyone elses or you'll burn it up. The next generation will be a modified version of mine with two clutch surfaces instead of one. I'm currently locking the converter (very slowly) after the third gear shift. I flatten the RPM rise at peak HP (using the apply ramp) maximizing delivered power. Too fast of an apply and you drag the RPM down (slower car). Too slow of an apply and you overshoot peak power (slower car). NO ONE has done as much converter testing with this car than me. I've had seven different converter mods from mild to wild and logged thousands of hours worth of data. There are a couple really good converter builders out there who will custom design for your power level. Properly tuned the car WILL be faster.
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11.6 @ 113 1000 DA

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Old 12-16-2011, 08:43 PM   #140
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You will need a good tune to get the most out of it. I am saving for this mod and will be my next big mod. It is not cheap. My 4th Gen had a 3600 stall in it and was a blast to drive. My 5th Gen is also my D/D.

Bill
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Old 01-13-2012, 02:15 PM   #141
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...as far as tuning goes, not all tuners are NOT created equal. Go with one who has been recommended by someone you can trust who has similar modifications to his/her 5th gen. Or spend $$$ like I did, going through a couple of tuners, to end up with Ted Jannetty (who I should have went to in the first place!). Ted's mail-in tune is far superior to the dyno tune and road tune that I've had in the past. I guess all of that experience he has, has something to do with it... My mods are not complex- just bolt-ons and a 2800FTI stall. But the converter can complicate matters for some.
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Old 01-18-2012, 06:38 PM   #142
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i have a 2000 ss with intake and finishing my full exhaust this weekend, getting it tuned in 2 weeks then looking for a stall .. its a DD ... and im looking at the yank stalls but idk which to get . the 3200 is so tempting , but then there is the 3600 staringme in the eyes. what should i do . i want drivibility and crazy fun when needed
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Old 01-18-2012, 07:36 PM   #143
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Have great deals on the FTI billet units....let me know. No better converter period for these lock-up trannies. We have won several Divisonal, National, and World championships in both NHRA & IHRA in multiple classes using FTI converters. If it does not perform as I claim I'll buy it back.
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Old 01-18-2012, 07:56 PM   #144
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i have a 2000 ss with intake and finishing my full exhaust this weekend, getting it tuned in 2 weeks then looking for a stall .. its a DD ... and im looking at the yank stalls but idk which to get . the 3200 is so tempting , but then there is the 3600 staringme in the eyes. what should i do . i want drivibility and crazy fun when needed
FTI, Yank, Protorque, Circle D, are all good converters. The Circle D triple disk is probably the strongest of the bunch and comes with a free stall. Whatever you go with make sure it is tuned correctly.
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11.6 @ 113 1000 DA

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Old 01-19-2012, 07:24 PM   #145
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I had a 3600 on my D/D 2001 Camaro Z28. I loved driving that car. A good tune means everything.

Bill
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Old 01-19-2012, 09:28 PM   #146
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I've ran stock, 2800, 3000, 3200, 3600, and 4500. My favorite to date is the 3600. From stock to 3600 is a big jump, but you get used to it.
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Old 01-21-2012, 04:34 PM   #147
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Great info in this thread. Whats the opinion on 3.70 gears along with say a 2800-3000 stall on a bolt on and tuned L99? Would that be over kill on the street as far as keeping traction for a daily driver? I guess what I'm asking is would 3.70's play nice with a stall for a daily driver with occasional drag use.
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Old 01-21-2012, 07:17 PM   #148
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The FTI 3600 will drive most other 3200's until you put your foot in it....and 1 free stall adjustment within 12 months of purchase. We have run most of the other well known brands for years and have been sponsored and recieved free units from a couple mentioned above, but none have ever equaled how quick the FTI's have been and in our classes of racing, every hundreth of a second counts.

That and we have broken one or more of every other brand we have ru through the years and have yet to break an FTI. I believe in them so much I will buy it back if it does not perform as claimed.
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Old 02-28-2012, 10:59 PM   #149
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Had a Yank 2800 put in recently with the heads and cam. Didnt want to go to big because I will be getting a Whipple supercharger later. I wouldnt say it drives just like stock but its not too far from it. The extra thrust off the line is great and it flashes pretty good between shifts for being such a small stall. I think 3.70 gears would make it to where it drives better than stock and really compliment the stall. I also had a ADM tranny cooler installed at the same time and would HIGHLY recommend this mod for any trans stock or modded. Even when I drive the crap out of the car it doesnt get much more than 180*.
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Old 04-15-2012, 01:52 AM   #150
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In the past I've run converters from 3600 to 5500 behind an LS engine.

I doubt I can find someone local with a 3600, but that would be pretty interesting I think. I bet the pcm tunes on these cars are tricky too.
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