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Old 03-04-2012, 03:19 PM   #2551
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Well. Took the turn in pipe off and put the 'Y' pipe in on one side and the turn in pipe would have to litterally be 5" shorter AND if it were to be the motors hang down too low.

So If they can't go directly before the mufflers it's not gonna happen.
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Old 03-04-2012, 03:20 PM   #2552
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The pics are horrible. Way too close and blurry.
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Old 03-04-2012, 03:44 PM   #2553
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In front of the mufflers will still be plenty loud... ZL1 style
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Old 03-04-2012, 03:45 PM   #2554
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go charge your phone... I will be calling.
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Got it with me and earpiece on.
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is it charged?
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Old 03-04-2012, 07:35 PM   #2555
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In front of the mufflers will still be plenty loud... ZL1 style
NOT loud enough.
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Old 03-04-2012, 07:40 PM   #2556
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Quote:
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NOT loud enough.
Oh LAWD....You're one of those guys....

"Randy, your freaking exhaust is rattling the windows!"

"I know, it's cool - but it's not loud ENOUGH!"

"Randy, you're new exhaust is shaking the pots and pans"

"I know - it's not loud enough!!"

"Dammit, Randy - when are you going to stop trying to make it louder?"

"It'll be loud enough when I can't hear you!"

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Old 03-04-2012, 07:43 PM   #2557
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Old 03-04-2012, 07:47 PM   #2558
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NOT loud enough.


Get a shop to put 'em behind the headers. You'll be VERY loud then.

Also, get a bigger cam. Then you'll be STUPID LOUD!
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Old 03-04-2012, 07:51 PM   #2559
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Get a shop to put 'em behind the headers. You'll be VERY loud then.

Also, get a bigger cam. Then you'll be STUPID LOUD!
If they go up front I'll have to get different cutouts. These will not fit.
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Old 03-04-2012, 07:59 PM   #2560
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FYI: I used QTP cutouts. IPS' fab guy cut them up and rewelded them to make them fit.
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Old 03-04-2012, 08:03 PM   #2561
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Quote:
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FYI: I used QTP cutouts. IPS' fab guy cut them up and rewelded them to make them fit.
I will have to get different ones if I want them up front.

If you weld the cutouts themselves (at least with Dougs) your warranty is toast.
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Old 03-04-2012, 08:12 PM   #2562
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I will have to get different ones if I want them up front.

If you weld the cutouts themselves (at least with Dougs) your warranty is toast.
You are worried about a warranty??? YOU?

I'm callin' your Chevy dealer...
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Old 03-04-2012, 08:13 PM   #2563
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You are worried about a warranty??? YOU?

I'm callin' your Chevy dealer...


Warranty on these yes. lol

I have faith in an LS engine from the General.

Dougs Headers Cutout Motors...... not so much.
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Old 03-04-2012, 08:28 PM   #2564
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Get a shop to put 'em behind the headers. You'll be VERY loud then.

Also, get a bigger cam. Then you'll be STUPID LOUD!
... and cubic inches... 572.

Cutouts behind the headers, bigger cam and 572 BB..... and that's all
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Old 03-04-2012, 08:29 PM   #2565
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Old 03-04-2012, 09:05 PM   #2566
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Old 03-04-2012, 09:10 PM   #2567
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Have you thought about unbolting the Y-pipe from the motor assembly....cut off and weld the portion with the flange on it to the curve of your exhaust (facing rearward) HERE:


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And then bolt the motor assembly back up to it?
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Old 03-04-2012, 09:15 PM   #2568
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Have you thought about unbolting the Y-pipe from the motor assembly....cut off and weld the portion with the flange on it to the curve of your exhaust (facing rearward) HERE:


Attachment 343692


And then bolt the motor assembly back up to it?
Actually yes.

But I'd have to have a shop do that. Which I am trying to avoid. Looks like I may not be able to avoid it. But some fabing will be necessary even with that rout. Last thing I want is more back pressure right now.

I wondered if that would create a 'friction' point with them closed.

But that set-up would be much like the noweeds. Problem is once I pay the shop to do the fabing I could have just bought the noweeds bolt in quarterpipe setup.

That curved pip there I took off and put the cutout on the header pipe and that position will not work anyway. the motor hits the Tranny brace and hangs too low.
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Old 03-04-2012, 09:16 PM   #2569
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Here are my cutouts installed on the guy's car who bought them along with my whole exhaust.

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Old 03-04-2012, 09:23 PM   #2570
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Actually yes.

But I'd have to have a shop do that. Which I am trying to avoid. Looks like I may not be able to avoid it. But some fabing will be necessary even with that rout. Last thing I want is more back pressure right now.

I wondered if that would create a 'friction' point with them closed.

But that set-up would be much like the noweeds. Problem is once I pay the shop to do the fabing I could have just bought the noweeds bolt in quarterpipe setup.

That curved pip there I took off and put the cutout on the header pipe and that position will not work anyway. the motor hits the Tranny brace and hangs too low.
Then what if you do this? Will they not fit here? Could you trim the edges of the Y-pipe down to make it fit?

(Thanks EMMA for your Donor picture )
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Old 03-04-2012, 09:27 PM   #2571
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The wye could be welded in just about anyplace like Joe mentioned. Depends on how permanent you want it.
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Old 03-04-2012, 09:28 PM   #2572
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Yup. MUCH smaller than mine. Dammit.
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Old 03-04-2012, 09:36 PM   #2573
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Problem is the style of cut-out.

The big 'blade' part is the pita.

The red below hits the pipe just like the pic shows.

The Yellow the pipes curve too fast and so that part is not long enough. Even if I cut the 'Y' pipe a sleeve clamp won't have enough to bite to.

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Old 03-04-2012, 10:02 PM   #2574
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The cutouts you bought look big compared to some others I've seen like QTP or DMH. That makes them harder to mount, especially if you're not willing to cut up that Y pipe and weld them in. I'm no expert though and I cheated by having my shop cut them and weld them.
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Old 03-04-2012, 10:05 PM   #2575
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PQ View Post
Problem is the style of cut-out.

The big 'blade' part is the pita.

The red below hits the pipe just like the pic shows.

The Yellow the pipes curve too fast and so that part is not long enough. Even if I cut the 'Y' pipe a sleeve clamp won't have enough to bite to.

Attachment 343705
Two questions:

1) Where are they supposed to mount as designed?

2) Are the flanges perfectly circular - allowing you to drill new holes, if need be and twist the motor assembly 180° (letting the "big blade" fit)?
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