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Old 10-27-2011, 01:22 AM   #51
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Updated today.
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Old 11-12-2011, 01:21 PM   #52
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Bump for advfire along with updated torque values.
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Old 12-06-2011, 03:32 AM   #53
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I've been meaning to read this write up for awhile. I finally had some free time, and I must say this was a very informative read, thanks for taking the time to do this write up.
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Old 12-06-2011, 06:37 AM   #54
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I went with the Pace Car Package. Coilovers gave me my OEM ride back (after having lowering springs) and I can make it as stiff or soft as I want it.

But, I will tell you, the biggest, the BIGGEST and best upgrade were the radius arm inserts and subframe inserts. The rear feels planted all the time. The steering with those inserts is hard to describe but it feels solid. This was the best purchase I've made for my car. Thank you Pedders!
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Old 12-06-2011, 07:29 AM   #55
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I'm leaning toward getting the Pace Car set up as well, thank God I'll be home soon and it will be time to start moding.
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Old 12-06-2011, 09:19 AM   #56
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when are you due home?
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Old 12-12-2011, 09:15 AM   #57
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very good info!
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Old 01-19-2012, 02:42 AM   #58
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This is an awesome read!
I'm in the process of upgrading my suspension and I believe reading this has made my choice much easier, I'll be shooting one of you Pedder's guys a PM in the morning!
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Old 01-19-2012, 05:56 AM   #59
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This is an awesome read!
I'm in the process of upgrading my suspension and I believe reading this has made my choice much easier, I'll be shooting one of you Pedder's guys a PM in the morning!
You've made a very good choice
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Old 01-25-2012, 12:18 AM   #60
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The BOOK has been updated with FE4 / FE5 / ZL1 Sway Bar Information.
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Old 01-28-2012, 05:27 PM   #61
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Pete, what are the suggested damper setting to start out with for XA coilovers for OE ride, performance street, and road course?
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Old 01-29-2012, 12:08 AM   #62
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Pete, what are the suggested damper setting to start out with for XA coilovers for OE ride, performance street, and road course?
I sent TAG out of the shop with the fronts at 27 / 3 off full hard and the rears at 15 / middle. For an all out track assault I would dial down the fronts to 18 and pump up the rears to 27 / 3 off full hard. The harder you make the rears in relation to the fronts the more the car will bias to oversteer.

OE is going to be 8 off full soft front and 5 off full soft rear.

Name your poison in between
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Old 01-29-2012, 08:09 AM   #63
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So I'll probably start out with 15 front and 9 rear for spirited street driving, so should I leave my sway bars set to full hard? I'll be 95% street with 1 or 2 track days for fun, no serious racing.
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Old 01-29-2012, 10:18 AM   #64
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Having a cheater-card that I could laminate would be an awesome tool. I'd like to have OE, aggressive street, road course, and drag strip settings. I understand that these would be starting points, but for those of us that haven't learned what we are doing yet, and don't have many hours on the track, having a starting point would be very helpful. Notation such as FS+3 (Full Soft plus 3) or FH-8 (Full Hard minus 8) would make it really easy.

Do I remember correctly, that your recommended starting point for drag is front: full soft, and rear set in the middle?
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Old 01-29-2012, 08:06 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by 572HP View Post
Having a cheater-card that I could laminate would be an awesome tool. I'd like to have OE, aggressive street, road course, and drag strip settings. I understand that these would be starting points, but for those of us that haven't learned what we are doing yet, and don't have many hours on the track, having a starting point would be very helpful. Notation such as FS+3 (Full Soft plus 3) or FH-8 (Full Hard minus 8) would make it really easy.

Do I remember correctly, that your recommended starting point for drag is front: full soft, and rear set in the middle?
Cheater card --

You are dead nuts on for the strip settings.
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Old 02-05-2012, 11:21 AM   #66
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Wheel Hop

The #1 source of wheel hop on a 5th Gen Camaro is found in the OEM SUB-FRAME bushes. That would be the reason Chevrolet upgrade the sub-frame bushes by partially filling the Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH) voids starting with the 2012 5th Gen Vert. The OEM sub-frame bushes are still biased toward NVH concerns and not burn-outs, or performance at the drags or road course weekends. The NVH voided original or slightly improved OEM sub-frame bushes allow the entire IRS to shift side to side while under-load. This motion changes the dynamic alignment of your 5th Gen creating rear end steer, rear end step out and contributing to wheel hop

The #2 source of wheel hop, particularly on lowered Camaros is INCORRECT ALIGNMENT. Too much negative camber places the load of launch primarily on the inside shoulder of the rear tire. Spinning an inch and a half strip of tire doesn't take much HP. Aligning your 5th Gen to less than -.5 degrees rear camber with a TOE IN .17 improves your drag launch by using 90% or more of your rear tires to put power down.

The #3 source of wheel hop is deflection in the toe link bushes. We are not talking about toe link arm deflection we are talking about bush squish in the arm. How do I know? Hard engineering data. When GM built the Leno Twin Turbo Camaro they were not satisfied with the handling. Jay's Camaro has a very aggressive set of wheels and tires that increase the load on the suspension. In speaking with some members of the build TEAM I suggested a couple of Pedders upgrades in addition to the Xa coilovers that were already installed at the Milford Proving Grounds. Being a structured and data driven company, the build TEAM decided they should measure and document the issues on a shaker.





You can see a Camaro on GM's Shaker Rig at 55 seconds in.





What were the results of Leno's car on the SHAKER? The data and data points belong to Chevrolet and GM. The EP1200 sub-frame inserts and EP7323 Toe Link Bushes may be on Mr. Leno's Camaro, but they belong to me.

The #4 source of wheel hop on a 5th Gen is the tie and tread compound. Check aorund the forum and see what happends with wheel hop when you run on drag rubber or shorter tires.

The #5 source of wheel hop is a combination of modest spring rate and a damper map biased a bit too much to ride comfort. We spent a long time working with Lingenfelter to develop a dedicated set of drag coilovers. The front coil rate is 4.5kg and the rear is 12kg. The front monotube has a longer stroke than stock. The rear monotube is a massive 52mm diameter unit that is maxed out for bound control. High RWHP Camaros with slicks bite so har the launch is violent. They compres the rear suspension so fast that it bounces off the bumpstops. Keep in mind this was measured using a well known set of brand-x coilovers on the LPE Black Pig. When we bolted on out of the box Pedders Supercars the Black Pig picked up 2/10ths in the 60'. After we tested, refined and tested and.... you get the idea the LPE Drag Coilovers delivered more than 3/10ths improvement in the 60'

The #6 source of wheel hop is related to side to side load distribution. The factory rear sway bar 2010 to 2011 is a 23mm hollow tube that mounts inboard close to the differential. It is a light weight bar by any measure. The 2012 FE4 features an improved sway bar mounting position that is close to the knuckle. This is a HUGE improvement in geometry and function. The ZL1 comes of the assembly line with a 28mm SOLID bar. The change in geometry coupled with the change in bar strength (GM is now using solid sway bars just like Pedders Camaro sway bars) more effectively distribute load on hard launch. Upgrading to OE Rear Lower Control Arms with the new FE4 / ZL1 sway bar mounting points and a ZL1 28mm solid rear bar will imporve your drag launch. If you are looking for even more improvement your ONLY option is Pedders new 2010 to 2011 ZL1 32mm solid rear bar complete with GM ZL1 Arms and Pedders Droplinks. If you have a 2012 all you'll need is the ZL1 Rear Sway Bar Upgrade.

The #7 source of wheel hop is driveline movement. Driveline twist or driveline torque is a mini-wheel-hop motion. Replacing the OEM NVH biased differential bushes is the first place to start. The front two differential bushes are under heavy load, but that load is dwarfed by the load that the rear differential bush carries. Our solution is the new EP1167HDZ. The front two bushes are very high durometer urethane and the rear bush is machined Acetal for maximum control for optimized launches.

When you are serious about your 5th Gen performance on the drag strip your solutions are found at Pedders and Lingenfelter.
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Old 02-08-2012, 10:35 AM   #67
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Waiting for my Pedder's coil over package to arrive from JDP Motorsports! This thread made up my mind & helped me with my choices, thanks much!
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Old 02-08-2012, 10:37 AM   #68
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Thank you for choosing Pedders and JDP!
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Old 02-08-2012, 11:17 AM   #69
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Subscibed, good info here
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Old 02-18-2012, 11:08 PM   #70
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Dumb question but what is that wrap material on the intake tube pictured?
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Old 02-19-2012, 12:03 PM   #71
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Dumb question but what is that wrap material on the intake tube pictured?
Thermo Tec insulation. The MAF is mounted in the inter-cooler. We wanted to make sure the air temperature was the same at the MAF as it is going into the engine so we wrapped the charger tube. It has two full layers of insulation. Header wrap is the first and then the Thermo Tec shield on top.

http://www.thermotec.com/products/14...at-shield.html
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Old 02-22-2012, 09:53 PM   #72
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Because of this thread I was able to make an educated decision....Pedders Coilovers



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Old 02-24-2012, 10:05 PM   #73
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Pete,
Sent you a voicemail & email....Having an issue with my Z-Force hood hitting the Pedders coil over adjustment knob. The -Force hood doesn't have the clearance of the stock hood & the adjustment knobs are higher

Here's the pics:


The knob is higher than the stock black cap from front tower










Emails sent to Eric at MPD1 as well.....I need HELP BAD!!!
Am I the only one with this issue???????

Anyone???

Please Help
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Old 02-24-2012, 11:58 PM   #74
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At this time, you have the honor of being the only one I know about. We ran into this issue shortly after the release of our coilovers on a Nickey Chicago build. We immediately revised the amount of shaft that extends above the OEM nut to the minimum number of threads required for the adjuster. Since then, you are the first to report a similar issue.

The fix is to remove the adjuster knob and store them in your glove box. They do not need to be tight to make a damping adjustment. Drop them in place, hand tighten the nut and turn the adjusting knob. That is the easy part. Can you touch up the tracks under your hood?
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Old 02-25-2012, 10:56 AM   #75
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At this time, you have the honor of being the only one I know about. We ran into this issue shortly after the release of our coilovers on a Nickey Chicago build. We immediately revised the amount of shaft that extends above the OEM nut to the minimum number of threads required for the adjuster. Since then, you are the first to report a similar issue.

The fix is to remove the adjuster knob and store them in your glove box. They do not need to be tight to make a damping adjustment. Drop them in place, hand tighten the nut and turn the adjusting knob. That is the easy part. Can you touch up the tracks under your hood?
Why couldn't I have the honor of hitting the Powerball?!?!!?!?!!!!

Thanks for the PM Pete, and we'll get the knobs off Monday and let you know how it goes, glad it's a simple fix. We'll just have to touch up the hood, it was just installed this week, before the coilovers. Sucks to be me this week! Everytime the car is close to getting done, something pushes us back....One day I'll drive it before it becomes a classic!
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