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Old 07-27-2010, 10:25 PM   #1
kga10734
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Modifying your Airaid air box

I started this in the V6 intake test results, but it's getting lost in all the hoopla so I decided to start it over in a new thread so those of us that are trying it out can keep track of what each of us are doing.

So far my impression of this mod to the air box and moving my IAT sensor back to the stock location(within the MAF)is positive. The throttle is a bit more responsive and driving in "D" has better throttle response as well. Where as before driving in "D" was a bit more sluggish.

Here is my original post from that thread....

OK here is what I did. I didn't what to cut any large holes in my air box, but I did want to allow more air to reach the filter. I drilled a bunch of 1/2" dia. holes in a few places on the air box. I looked at what had clearance around the fender area. The back side of the air box fits tight against the fender well so I drilled into the places that are facing the front and close to the fender area as to try and stay away from the engine side of the air box. I should be getting more then enough cool air into the air box hopefully helping keep the intake air temps down to normal since I have moved my IAT sensor back to the stock location housed within the MAF. If I drilled more holes then I need no big deal, at least it won't be starving for cool air now. I took it for a quick drive down the road and no CEL and seems to be running just fine. I didn't sit in any traffic to see if it heat soaks while sitting, so I'll have to check that part of it out later this weeks to see if it still has the response it had with the IAT relocate.

Thanks to JRE for doing the test and giving us the results. With this test and your findings, you answered a question I was thinking about which was is there enough air getting into the Airaid air box with just the stock snorkel tube after seeing how the other companies were making theirs. As I have stated before, this is my first experience with a CAI and Airaid was out right after I bought my car and I had heard good things about them. So far my experience with Airaid is top notch and their customer support is above and beyond what I have gotten from most companies. Airaid supplies a nice large filter, but the opening to the air box was small(stock size).















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Old 07-28-2010, 09:49 AM   #2
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Thanks KGA! I was all geared up to do the IAT relocation when my AirRaid arrives, but now I'm super happy that won't be needed!
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Old 07-28-2010, 10:14 AM   #3
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I am going to need someone to come over and punch holes into my box that neatly, lol.

(no, really....come on, I'll grill you up a burger....).
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Old 07-28-2010, 11:49 AM   #4
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I'm glad u did start this tread ! I'll be doing the same .id like to run some piping also to bring out side air in but not sure if there's clearance .maybe open the grill area up a bit bye the rs .
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Old 07-28-2010, 11:59 AM   #5
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Now the question is....has this actually worked? Guess we need someone to do another dyno so we can find out if this actually lowered the temps enough.
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Old 07-28-2010, 01:20 PM   #6
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I did a very similar mod to my airaid. I have to agree with KGAs findings.
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Old 07-28-2010, 01:24 PM   #7
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Or at least get some IAT temps...
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Old 07-28-2010, 01:42 PM   #8
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Or at least get some IAT temps...
Maybe Airaid is teaking on theirs now?
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Old 07-28-2010, 02:12 PM   #9
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I am going to need someone to come over and punch holes into my box that neatly, lol.

(no, really....come on, I'll grill you up a burger....).
Come to MD first and I will cook you a steak and buy you a beer.

If this mod does lower the temps we might see even better numbers than the Injen. My fear is the stock hole brings air away from the engine compartment. Will this draw in hot air since it is allowing air from within the engine compartment to get in.
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Old 07-28-2010, 02:25 PM   #10
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Come to MD first and I will cook you a steak and buy you a beer.

If this mod does lower the temps we might see even better numbers than the Injen. My fear is the stock hole brings air away from the engine compartment. Will this draw in hot air since it is allowing air from within the engine compartment to get in.
My thoughts exactly. I was thinking of going the opposite direction since the C.A.I. and ADM products tested so well with closed boxes. Would it make sense to close the Airaid up?
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Old 07-28-2010, 02:41 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by SchwarzerDrache
Come to MD first and I will cook you a steak and buy you a beer.

If this mod does lower the temps we might see even better numbers than the Injen. My fear is the stock hole brings air away from the engine compartment. Will this draw in hot air since it is allowing air from within the engine compartment to get in.

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My thoughts exactly. I was thinking of going the opposite direction since the C.A.I. and ADM products tested so well with closed boxes. Would it make sense to close the Airaid up?

Thought about this as well before drilling holes in the airaid box. But based on the locations of the holes that I drilled (3 2.5" holes), I believe this will be very minimal. Positioned as low as possible and as far away as possible from the engine. Seems that throttle response improved a little. Drove it last night, appr. 80 degrees for 20 miles. Tube was warm but not as warm as before. I am thinking JRE's recommendation does the trick.
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Old 07-28-2010, 03:33 PM   #12
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why didn't you drill holes in the very bottom of the box? that's where i would think the most air from underneath is coming from, not the sides of the box.
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Old 07-28-2010, 03:34 PM   #13
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Anybody that has a Dashhawk and wants to send it to me, I'll pay the shipping charges both ways. I would be more then happy to log the temps and then return it to you. I'm not going to go out and buy one just for this. If not I'll have to wait till another time when it's cooler to go get my car dynoed.

As far as drawing in hot air, my air box seals against the bottom of the hood, and if there is any hot air coming in from the original intake hole and the new ones I added, I plan on making a shield to block the holes off from the engine bay to make sure it is getting fresh air coming in from the front of the car. I don't think that is an issue right now since it is drawing in air from the same fender area as the other intakes.
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Old 07-28-2010, 03:37 PM   #14
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why didn't you drill holes in the very bottom of the box? that's where i would think the most air from underneath is coming from, not the sides of the box.
I picked the locations I did to allow air coming in from behind the grill area and fender area. The very bottom is closer to the engine and I wanted to stay away from it as much as possible.
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Old 07-28-2010, 04:37 PM   #15
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I followed Kga's lead on this modification and what was once a hot tube, I mean really hot after driving, the tube is now mainly warm. I think this has drastically reduced the temps the airtube was getting by additional holes in the box away from the engine side of business.

As for neat, I used a spring loaded cener punch to mark my holes and had at it.
I also put three holes in the very bottom but that was only to allow washer fluid to drain out.

Overall, I'm happy has a fat rat in a cheese factory with my Airaid, the V2 tube and the added punch/response I've noticed since I've added the addtional holes.
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Old 07-28-2010, 06:25 PM   #16
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hmm, got to try great idea, i did the IAT relocation already, would it be okay to punch all those holes and still keep the IAT relocation or would you really need to hook up the old IAT. I saw that you did in your post, wouldn't all that air flow be better for the IAT relocation anyway??
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Old 07-28-2010, 09:09 PM   #17
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Placed my order tonight, someone hurry up and run some tests so I know if I need to buy a center punch, LOL
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Old 07-29-2010, 12:22 AM   #18
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Me to you all. KGA and I did it about the same time and I concur with the findings, better resonse, sound and the air tube is just warm now not hot.
Hey KGA, I added some more holes! I now have:
1. one at 1x4" in the bottom
2. the rect one adjacent to the stock inlet is now 3x5"
3. added 7 holes .75" dia below and to the side of the bottle, front panel.
I think it is enough as I didn't notice any real extra gain but will monitor it. Any more holes and I might as well drill some in my head! This is just to much fun man!!
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Old 07-29-2010, 10:15 PM   #19
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Driving impressions today
1. to work, 66 deg out ,same usual response.
opened hood at work when I got there and tube was just barely warm. I could feel cool air coming in or being sucked in the holes in the front panel of the box. Only hot part of box was the curved side abd back facing the engine. The wall where the tube is was just warm and the front and fendor side panel were cool.Also the air and area at the hole in the bottom also is cool all the time, never any heat. Fender lower hole also always cool.
2. Drove home in usual traffic. temp at 78 degrees. tube was warmer now as air temp was higher and engine temp was up to 210 at some points versus 200 in the a.m..noticed stock inlet tube is barely warm where as in the morning was cool.
All else applies regards cool/warm areas, just a little warmer as to be expected.
Car still seems to react very close as if having the IAT mod done and the way it made the car run.
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Old 07-29-2010, 11:02 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mydreamcar View Post
hmm, got to try great idea, i did the IAT relocation already, would it be okay to punch all those holes and still keep the IAT relocation or would you really need to hook up the old IAT. I saw that you did in your post, wouldn't all that air flow be better for the IAT relocation anyway??
I put the IAT back to stock location because I figured if there was more cool air going into the intake it should be OK there and no need to relocate it. Also as posted by JRE, the temps were rising when they had their foot in the gas(accelerating) and the temps would drop when they let off.

Quote:
Originally Posted by merlin803 View Post
Placed my order tonight, someone hurry up and run some tests so I know if I need to buy a center punch, LOL
I just put the drill bit in the drill and eyeballed my holes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chozn4service View Post
I followed Kga's lead on this modification and what was once a hot tube, I mean really hot after driving, the tube is now mainly warm. I think this has drastically reduced the temps the airtube was getting by additional holes in the box away from the engine side of business.

As for neat, I used a spring loaded cener punch to mark my holes and had at it.
I also put three holes in the very bottom but that was only to allow washer fluid to drain out.

Overall, I'm happy has a fat rat in a cheese factory with my Airaid, the V2 tube and the added punch/response I've noticed since I've added the addtional holes.
Last 2 days I have driven home in mid 90's temps and roughly 75% humidity. I drove it hard and when I got home both days I popped the hood right away. The intake tube is definitely cooler then it has been which should be dropping the air temps inside the intake tube while accelerating. The intake tube is warm but no where near as hot as the engine cover. Before, the intake tube was as hot or hotter then the engine cover. You almost couldn't even put your hand on the tube.

I plan on playing around with the idea of a shield this weekend to block off as much of the engine bay from the intake side of the air box to try and get as much cool air from outside the car as possible.
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Old 07-29-2010, 11:38 PM   #21
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somebody's gotta have one of them infrared thermometers to measure the temp of the tube before/after!
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Old 07-30-2010, 07:56 AM   #22
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I'm just curious...has anyone while doing these temperature tests taken the engine cover off? It sounds a bit silly, but...
I had a cobalt, and when the engine cover was on the temps in the engine bay were noticeably hotter. On the cobalt, at least, the engine cover did help keep some of the noise down, but it did keep things hotter under it. I wonder if 1) taking the engine cover off would help get some heat out of there and thus 2) possibly lower IAT sensor temperature readings. Just a thought.
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Old 07-30-2010, 08:13 AM   #23
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I'm just curious...has anyone while doing these temperature tests taken the engine cover off? It sounds a bit silly, but...
I had a cobalt, and when the engine cover was on the temps in the engine bay were noticeably hotter. On the cobalt, at least, the engine cover did help keep some of the noise down, but it did keep things hotter under it. I wonder if 1) taking the engine cover off would help get some heat out of there and thus 2) possibly lower IAT sensor temperature readings. Just a thought.
Im seriously considering making the cowl hood functional to let more air through. I seldom drive in the rain and Im sure it would make things cooler under the hood and it would probably be much better with the engine cover off. I removed mine some time ago but more for popping the hood and allowing the engine to cool between runs.
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Old 07-30-2010, 08:21 AM   #24
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After reading all the ideas and suggestions i have a question. The holes you drilled look pretty kool by the way. Has anyone tried using, say a flexible or universal radiator hose, some kind of tube attached to the box running down to the lwoer fender area like the injen location? You shouldn't risk water lock beacause you are drawing air from the top snorkel as well. Was thinking it might help with cooler air coming from the lower opening of the front facia being sucked through a 2 inch, or so, tube back up top. This set up made some really good numbers with just the snorkel, add more cool air and maybe get even better numbers. Just a thought.

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Old 07-30-2010, 08:55 AM   #25
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After reading all the ideas and suggestions i have a question. The holes you drilled look pretty kool by the way. Has anyone tried using, say a flexible or universal radiator hose, some kind of tube attached to the box running down to the lwoer fender area like the injen location? You shouldn't risk water lock beacause you are drawing air from the top snorkel as well. Was thinking it might help with cooler air coming from the lower opening of the front facia being sucked through a 2 inch, or so, tube back up top. This set up made some really good numbers with just the snorkel, add more cool air and maybe get even better numbers. Just a thought.
That is a really interesting idea. Is there any possible negatives to getting more air or is it "the more the better"?
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