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Old 08-03-2010, 07:43 PM   #1
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***Updated Fuse Pull info, confirmed***

Ok, I have been digging around and trying to confirm some info with dealers and GM members here on C5, as well as people I know who I trust can provide accurate info.

To make a very brief explanation of the fuse pull, for those who don't know, it's pulling the #5 and #20 fuses out of the cars fuse box and replacing them. The purpose of which is to reset the ECU to factory defaults. This can also be done at the dealer using the TechII or other similar dealer interface device with the car. I recapped my involvement recently in the Fuse Pull Aniversary thread. And there is a Fuse Pull Stickey in the technical forum that will give a ton of original info concerning the issue.

I had reported that the problem was being 'fixed' at the dealer level with a computer flash or ECU update. (So that the car would recognize the re-introduction of high Octane fuel automaticaly) Well this is not acurate information.

It's just been confirmed that there is no computer flash or update for the dealers to do. There is no 'fix', because there is nothing broken. We will need to have our cars taken to the dealer OR pull the fuses ourselves anytime we get bad gas or low Octane gas in them. IF you want the max performance out of your STOCK car.

Battery is not necessary. ONLY the fuses.

Unless they changed the entire computer on these cars during production, (No way that happened) it appears that ANY SS Camaro will need to have the ECU reset (by fuse pull, or at your dealer) after using low Octane gas. Again, if you want the max performance from your car.

I've had a lot of people swear to me lately that they have benefited from the fuse pull. It got me to asking around. I was of the understanding that it was addressed on the assembly line. Apperently it was not. What's to address? So YES even you 2011 guys will be affected should you use or inadvertantly use low grade gas.

This does NOT mean our cars are defective in any way. In fact quite the contrary. Many cars would be damaged if you used low octane fuel in them. Or have to be taken to the dealer to be fixed. Some drive like crap. Some will just shut down so engine damage won't happen. Ours will not only keep runnning, but automatically run at a safe level. We even have the option to run low grade fuel intentionaly if we want to.

We just have to have the dealer reset the defaults back to the factory levels. Not gonna go into the reasons and technical stuff here in the OP. There are too many people here who can speak more acurately than myself, but I just wanted to pass this info along so that everyone knows. I have been telling people wrong.

I just wanted to update to let everyone know.
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Old 08-03-2010, 07:48 PM   #2
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did the fuse pull on my 2011, and it did wake her up....
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Old 08-03-2010, 07:54 PM   #3
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This is so confusing. When you say "any SS" do you mean "any A6 SS"? I have read (in the official 15 thousand post thread) that M6 LS3s require a battery disconnect (for some mysterious reason) and that the fuse pull won't do a thing. Zup?

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Old 08-03-2010, 08:04 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by mhood View Post
This is so confusing. When you say "any SS" do you mean "any A6 SS"? I have read (in the official 15 thousand post thread) that M6 LS3s require a battery disconnect (for some mysterious reason) and that the fuse pull won't do a thing. Zup?


Yeah, inquiring minds want to know
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Old 08-03-2010, 08:08 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhood View Post
This is so confusing. When you say "any SS" do you mean "any A6 SS"? I have read (in the official 15 thousand post thread) that M6 LS3s require a battery disconnect (for some mysterious reason) and that the fuse pull won't do a thing. Zup?

After taking a look at the schematics of the electrical, I don't see a difference. I don't know where that came from. You'll have to ask Radz.
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Old 08-03-2010, 08:24 PM   #6
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I'd still love to see some hard evidence that shows fuse pulling is really a benefit. Hard evidence being a NUMBER of runs to empty and fills, dynos, and track times as well as MPG results (on a variety of fuel types). I have yet to see anyone take a period of time and really test this.
The only "hard" evidence I can give you is two 1/8 mile slips, one week apart:
the first one is before the fuse pull - car ran a best of 9.20,

and the second is from exactly one week later - after the fuse pull - car ran a best of 8.40.

I didn't need any better proof that 8/10's improvement in the 8th mile.



(Ooops...scanner is down...but as soon as I get it back up, I will post the actual slips.) Scanner is still down, but was able to copy/paste the "better" time slip scanned in as I am still #6 on the official 1/8 mile best list.

BEST Slip from October 10 reads:
Reaction: .215
60Ft: 2.235
330Ft: 6.141
1/8 mi: 9.308 (I was wrong...I got OVER 8/10's in the 1/8th mi!!! b/c I thought it had run a 9.20!!)
MPH: 78.43

Here is the slip from exactly one week later:
The ONLY difference is a few degrees cooler and the FUSE PULL
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Last edited by acatlover13; 08-04-2010 at 05:25 PM. Reason: Added a timeslip
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Old 08-03-2010, 08:45 PM   #7
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My car is a testament to the fuse pull. Went 5 months uselessly putting 93 octane in her! There are no adverse effects of the fuse pull so I don't see why anyone wouldn't at least try it.
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Old 08-03-2010, 09:11 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acatlover13 View Post
The only "hard" evidence I can give you is two 1/8 mile slips, one week apart:
the first one is before the fuse pull - car ran a best of 9.20,

and the second is from exactly one week later - after the fuse pull - car ran a best of 8.40.

I didn't need any better proof that 8/10's improvement in the 8th mile.



(Ooops...scanner is down...but as soon as I get it back up, I will post the actual slips.)
I may put together a little something as far as a single place for fuse pull evidence. I'd LOVE to see your time slips.
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Old 08-03-2010, 10:09 PM   #9
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There was another trick, although I don't know if it was ever tried on a camaro - take off both cables (pos & neg) from the battery, and touch them together for 60 seconds.
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Old 08-03-2010, 10:16 PM   #10
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Whoa, whoa, whoa.... Now wait a minute! You're telling me that there's some fuses that I can pull out and replace that makes my car faster?!?!







Why has nobody told me about this before?!?
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Old 08-03-2010, 10:30 PM   #11
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Whoa, whoa, whoa.... Now wait a minute! You're telling me that there's some fuses that I can pull out and replace that makes my car faster?!?!







Why has nobody told me about this before?!?
It's been on the forum for awhile now....
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Old 08-03-2010, 10:31 PM   #12
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I can tell you that the fuse pull works! My car had 1/2 tank full when I picked it up, I drove it home and it just didn't feel like it was a 426hp engine under the hood. Weeks later, when I went back to dealer to pick up my engine cover, I asked the dealer what grade fuel they normally put in the new cars, was told they always put 87 in them, no matter it is a Corvette, etc.
Well, apparently, the SS' computer does not have the ability to recognize the premium octane and revert to a higher octane table once a low octane has been used. The fix is to do the fuse pull to start over.
I did the fuse pull, it worked! But still wasn't enough...Maggie fixed is all for me.
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Old 08-03-2010, 10:34 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by mhood View Post
This is so confusing. When you say "any SS" do you mean "any A6 SS"? I have read (in the official 15 thousand post thread) that M6 LS3s require a battery disconnect (for some mysterious reason) and that the fuse pull won't do a thing. Zup?

NO that is incorrect. The fuse pull works on all of them. The battery disconnect does nothing. LS3 or L99 if you get low octane gas you need to pull the fuses for a couple hours to reset back to high octane fuel.
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Old 08-03-2010, 10:53 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acatlover13 View Post
The only "hard" evidence I can give you is two 1/8 mile slips, one week apart:
the first one is before the fuse pull - car ran a best of 9.20,

and the second is from exactly one week later - after the fuse pull - car ran a best of 8.40.

I didn't need any better proof that 8/10's improvement in the 8th mile.



(Ooops...scanner is down...but as soon as I get it back up, I will post the actual slips.)
There are so many variables that come into play at the track it's impossible to narrow it down to one single thing. Honestly, your times the second trip to the track are more in line with what you should be running anyways.
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