Connect both light wires together...red to red and black to black...that way you have only the two wires to connect instead of four. I connected my fronts to a single pole-double throw (SPDT) switch which allows me to switch from dome light power to constant power (lights always on). My constant power is coming from the lighter in the center console above the stickshift; of course the power will cut off as soon as you open the driver door.

I installed the switch as seen below. It's a mini toggle switch.
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/pictur...ictureid=47477

I have a question for you. Did you install Diodes to keep the power from the constant back feeding the dome circuit, and vice versa?

Edit: Nevermind, I see you used a SPDT... duh. ah ahaha

No diodes. When the switch is set to one source, it cuts off power from the other source, so there's no backfeed.

Yeah I caught that with the SPDT, I did not see that the first time I read your response sorry LOL

NP

ok thanks a lot. do i need extra wires or is the lenght enough on the AAC light?

and i am right to buy the red t-taps right?

i got this switch with my order from AAC, can you explain how to connect the wires on that?

You may want to have some extra wire just in case. That switch is a single pole-single throw..meaning the lights will either be on or off, you will only have one power source. You will have to decide either dome light or constant.

I don't remember which terminals are which, but you have a ground terminal, a power source terminal, and the last terminal connects to your footwell power wire. You may have to play around with it to figure it out...that's what i did.

nice ok, but that is exactlly what i want. have the switch normally set for dome light, so that it isn't on allways. but i can siwtch it on during driving if i want :)

Ok...but if you use that switch, it will be either on with the dome light or completely off. You will not be able to turn them on while driving. That switch gives you 1 on and off, that's it.

The main reason I got the SPDT switch....I have two on's. When the switch is up, the lights work with the dome, when the switch is down, it cuts off the power from the dome and switches to constant, so the lights are on while i'm driving.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cpx49JE9378

Here is a video i did of what to do....

which extra wire do i need? the guys in 4 different shops had no clue, 1 thought it is an 16 and i need the blue t-taps ... but i know I need the red t-taps and it's more like a 20 or?

hm, ok, so i need an other switch -.-

I don't recall seeing lit SPDT switches before. Just get one with three terminals and no light. That should be correct. Connect as shown in my post from earlier in the thread.

ok thanks, i ordered the right switch. but i still have no idea about the right cable to lenghten the original! i habe the AAC SMD lights.

If that is LED, any #20 or #22 wire should be fine.

Winning!!!

Thanks Tyler
Ivan :thumbup:

skysharker/ tonyno: i am hoping to accomplish the exact same thing that maddox is trying. Connected to the dome light by default but have the option for a manual override to turn them on when the dome light is turned off. Following the lead of a SPDT switch, i was able to find this LED illuminated switch on ebay. Would it accomplish my (and funkymaddox's) goals?

LED Switch

i don't necessarily have any desire to shut them completely off. Thanks guys. I am about as far from an electrician as you can get...

That is a momentary switch. You want maintained if you use a button.

Do I need to use a fuse in my footwell lighting? I have the kit from AAC Style. I read the info that came with the kit and it doesn't say anything about how many amps it draws or that a fuse is needed.

I am going to stop at Auto Zone today to pick up a few other things and I just wanted to ask this before I go.

Emma, you can for extra measure if you really want to, but use a small fuse, nothing bigger than an amp even. The draw from the foot wells is really low. I have never used an amp for any of my LED lighting.

Tony, thank you for the write up. Couldn't have done it without good instructions. Very easy job got it done on my lunch break today. Went with red LED. Looks awesome!

someone used the SMDs? hope there are no differences to the LEDs.

I have the SMDs to match the abl lighting on the doors. I talked to the mechanic who wired my gauge pod today and he said that because the wire to the dome is already fuse protected, I didn't really need to worry about a fuse. He was kind enough to let me use his crimp tool while I was there and we put some quick connects on the ends of the wires from SMD light strings I got from AAC. Once I get my car back from the shop, it shouldn't take more than 5 minutes to do this!

SMD's are the same as LED's. SMD means, Surface Mounted Diode or Device (as some SMD's don't emit light) LED means Light Emitting Diode. For sake of our conversations, an LED looks like this
http://www.ledshoppe.com/Photo/Produ...o/PICT0053.JPG
and an SMD looks like this
http://www.usinenouvelle.com/industr...00054488_2.jpg
Really it's a SMD LED because other SMD's (non LED type) can look like this.
http://www.scienceprog.com/wp-conten...capacitors.jpg


In either SMD LED or Acrylic covered domes LED, they are the same. I currently have these in my footwells
http://onixlighting.com/images/Flex-led-strip.jpg

The SMD's Look like this
http://www.senoled.com/3528-LED-Stri...-led-strip.jpg


Either work just fine, and draw the same amount of current, depending on how many you have hooked up, in either case it's not much at all.

Tony, after reading your post and reviewing your pictures I got mine done in under an hour! THANK YOU!!!!

suscribed and bump for others :)

Got mine done and added front tray LED. Soon the cup holder as well.

Nice work Steelsinger! Where did you locate the tray LED? Looks like it may be at the rear? I always thought the bottom of the radio was a nice place for something, too.

Did mine today, but could not find the t-tap at the local auto store, so used the quick splice. It took alot of manuevering, but it looks like it worked. I stripped the ends of the positive wires and twisted them together, and ran it through one channel of the quick splice, and entered the grey wire under the other channel. Will tieing the two positives together cause probs?

Nice work LRod

My LED for the tray is just above the tray in the back...wow that makes no sense. LOL

See picture.

Nah, tying the positives together won't cause problems, it just means you are running a parallel circuit.

Nice pic though! Also, i would suggest soldering the connections in the future.. To me, that is a more gaurantee'd connection.

LRod: What size quick splice did you use?

Nice tip...thanks!

Red....22-18.

Okay, now, do you know what gauge the red wires were?

lol....your talking to a novice here. Where is the size located? They were attached to the footwell lights by AAC. Your concerning me bro....did I do something wrong?

Heh! No, no. Just asking so I can make an informed comment on your double-wire IDC (insulation displacement connection) ;) It may be fine. The size is not on the wire, rather, the setting of your wire stripper would tell you... unless you didn't use one. :D

I stripped it using the 22.20 mark but it took off a couple of wires. It fits through the 18 mark with room to move around.

Should I have not stripped?

Meh. You are probably fine. Don't worry until something bad happens. :D

:confused0068: