My magnaflow hits mine slightly. Not a big deal just rattles a little. Nothing a big f'n hammer cant fix

Its really close, but the H-E bushings help out. I was planning on running the cooler lines, but they don't clear, so I'm going to probably get a zl1 cat back and diffuser for the dual tips.

^Nice to know I'm not the only one. My shop (Lashway Motorsports) said it took an hour just to get them in, only to find, no matter what they tried, things just wouldn't fit/line up; a 1/4" lower and it might have worked. They had to melt them with a torch to get them out and went with standard delrin bushings instead...

That said, we can all agree this is a pretty bad-ass setup! The DSS axles and DS are very beefy and high-quality, and these ZL1 diffs are massive, as others have shown. The drive is smooth and the slightly shorter 3.73:1 gears, while not that noticeable a difference in get-up-and-go (and that's a good thing in my case!), make starting from a stop in slow traffic much easier/smoother with my lopey cam. Now I just need to address the traction issue and get some drag radials. :doh:

Here's what's left of one of the offset bushings; LOL. About a 1/4" less of an offset and they might've worked, in my case...

Install pics, before exhaust was reinstalled ('had to dimple one of the pipes and shave some extra metal on the diff for it to clear; it was tight even with the stock diff!)...

Thomas, we could argue all day about this, but I have better things to do. If I could remember every detail of everything they explained to me in person, I'd relay it to you (and no, they were not texting while trying to install it). This is far from their first rodeo with differential/drivetrain swaps. That said, I appreciate your assistance with this quality product and I am still interested in your alignment tips for best traction, if you're still willing to share.

I will say that mine have a 1/2" offset, which is MORE offset than the production pieces, and mine fit with the ZL1 diff, and 3.5" aluminum DSS driveshaft. I did take me a couple hours, and I have a lift. Maybe they didn't want to grind on the diff housing, along with the taking in/out of the diff. I had to fit mine in and out several times to get clearance, which is why we made the production pieces with 1.2mm less offset, so if it fit.on my car, it.should fit on all cars even given production tolerances. Maybe they just didn't expect to have to do a couple hours of work just on the diff bushings. I have talked to Lashway Motorsports on the phone before when I sold a set of trailing arms to a customer, and they quoted him almost 4 hours of work to install the outer trailing arm bushings, because they thought they needed to remove the spindle from the car to get them out. I explained how to do it in less than 30 minutes, so no more issue. Sometimes installers just come across issues they haven't encountered before. It happens, and we are available to help when problems are encountered.

The stock bushings come right out with a sawzall and air chisel, put the new bushings in the freezer a few hours before you start the job and they almost slide ride in. As for fitting the diff back into the cradle it may take a few tries, you need to watch closely as the diff may come into contact with the cradle...nothing a hammer and a little reshaping to the cradle can't fix. Took a few tries but overall not that bad and definitely worth it to save your axles.

A slide hammer got the bushings with too much offset out. I bulled out the sleeve and then the bushing.