how do you remove swirls on your paint
 

I have a 2014 summit white 2ss rs. I got it detailed, washed and waxed a few months ago. swirls are still very visible, after a wash, when its dirty...anytime. how do I get the swirls off. I don't have a mechanical buffer. thanks

You will need this Menzerna Power Finish (PF 2500), and a buffer.

I'm no expert but I used a small 4" orbital buffer that I bought at Trak Auto years ago along with Adams Revive Hand Polish. I used a Terry cloth pad on the polisher. My car is black and all the swirls came out. My car was only six months old when I did it. I topped it off with Adams Buttery wax.

Here's your thread. And no matter what anyone tells you, you are NOT going to be able to remove those swirls by hand.

At least your car isn't black- the swirls are always visible in black

thanks everyone. ya i was pretty sure i was gonna need a buffer so looks like i will be looking for a cheap one round town. just got this beautiful white 2014 ss in febuary so i knew a buffer was gonna come too sooner or later.

Buying a cheap buffer is like not buying one at all. The cheapest buffer that you are going to find that will actually do something is the PC-7424XP for around $116, and that thing will take you a while to get your paint defect free. If used correctly, you will see results. With a cheap and crappy one, you'll just be wasting your time. You may as well just pay a professional to fix your paint.

I had no problems with my cheap random orbital buffer. It took the swirls out of my black paint. I eventually want to get a better one but for someone just starting out on a new car I think any random orbital will do.

I totally disagree. The amount of damage that you may have in your paint may be completely different from what someone else has so a random statement that "any buffer will do" is very misleading. Add to that, you get what you pay for when it comes to these buffers and it makes no sense to spend twice the money buying something when spending once will get you something that last a lifetime. Do or do not, that is my motto. Experience has taught me well.

Check out the Junkman's videos on Youtube. He knows his shit and is the man!!!!
:bow:

I just did my car with Adam's Polishes. I did the Paint Correction compound with an orange pad, the the Paint Finishing polish with a white pad and it looks amazing! I need the put a glaze and sealant on next. I would recommend trying Adam's line with a Porter Cable buffer.

Ok I stand corrected. I too have watched some of your videos and my next purchase will be a quality buffer.

Why do you want to add a glaze?

http://www.travelandleisure.com/imag...onuts-kane.jpg

Because it tastes so good on a donut!!! :lol:

As the junkman has pretty much implied, a glaze really will only suit you for a quick temporary shine. basically the morning of a car show or something like that, you glaze your car to give it a nice shine. But the shine a glaze produces wears off rather quickly. Skip the glaze and use a sealant, and then when it's show time, thats when you bust out the glaze.

Well, actually what I was getting at is that he said he was going to use M105 and the orange pad, a combination that will remove EVERY scratch from your paint. That combination should be used until there are NO scratches remaining whatsoever, unless the scratches are too deep to remove (like through the clear coat or your fingernail catches on them). Then, you use M205 on a white pad to bring back a very glossy shine to the paint because ANY compound like M105 is going to make the paint look dull. This picture shows how a compound followed by a polish looks. You can clearly see the difference in color. I have started working the center of this trunk with the polish after I had removed all the paint damage with the compound.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/h...s/newport2.jpg

Now once ALL THAT is done, you are ready for wax. A Glaze is NO WHERE in this equation when you do it this way. A glaze is used to hide imperfections in paint, period. A glaze is full of fillers and those fillers will TEMPORARILY hide VERY MINOR scratches in paint, until that glaze wears off due to washing and time. I call a glaze a lazy man's way of fixing paint, although it does have it's uses.

Glazes are used by detailers to get your car in and out of a shop in a quick amount of time. If your car has a million scratches on it and some guy fixes it in 2 hours at a price of $75, you've just been glazed to death. Take your car to a dealership to have it detailed and you will go home with more glaze than those doughnuts in that picture. You don't properly correct all the damage in your paint and the glaze it to death. That would be like having a fender on your car that is full of rust and instead of using a ton of bondo to fix it (bondo being a glaze in this example), you completely replace the fender with a brand new one. If you completely replace the fender, you don't turn around and slap a TON of bondo on that brand new fender! That's not how bondo is used and slapping glaze of perfectly fixed paint is not how a glaze is used. Glaze does NOT create a shine, it only appears to make paint shinier because it helps hide the scratches. Scratches make your paint look dull so anything you do to remove the scratches is going to make the paint look shinier. Why do you think some old women wear so much makeup? It doesn't make them any younger (they are still old as hell up under all that glaze) but from a distance, they can at least make you LOOK.

Now a glaze does have it uses. For example, if you had a '68 Camaro with the original paint on it and that paint was getting so thin that you could practically see through it, you don't want to start using compounds and polishes to remove any paint damage. If you are NOT going to repaint the car, then you would use a glaze on that paint to help hide any MINOR DAMAGE in the paint. That way, you don't end up removing any of what little precious paint that remains on the car. That's how a glaze should be used.

So that's why I asked that question because a glaze is unnecessary if he used M105 and M205 correctly to do what they are designed to do. ;)

Gary Dean feels the cheap harbor freight d/a is pretty awesome compared to higher priced machines.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y040...EhTNXXZcK_dM_A

I know Gary. We talk often. The difference here between you and I is that I have first hand experience with that thing falling apart in my hands so I don't have to ask Gary about it. Also, I have heard from a crap load of people who are bitchin' about theirs failing on just about every detailing forum that I post on. So it's your money and you can buy one from the Chinese Cheesecake Factory if you want but don't say you were never warned. ;)

Which one do you recommend for non professionals like myself that just want to wax their car on a nice weekend? Nothing that breaks the bank either.

I like my Groit's Polisher. Works well for the Hobbyist. 130-150$ depending on where you buy it. Also change out the 6" backing plate for a 5" and buy 5-5.5" pads make it a lot easier to work with and like going with a higher ratio rear end will have more effective torque (POWER).

The porter cable 7424 is probably your best bang for your buck. Any da will throw on wax with no issues, whether or not the cheap da's will actually make your life easier is a whole different story. I use the flex 3401 for most of my work (compounding, polishing, waxing/sealing), and the flex rotary or by hand for the tight spots. Most people don't want to spend that kind of money though. A porter cable will do most of the things you will ever need to do.

The Flex is overkill for waxing. You definitely don't need that kind of power unless you're using a correcting wax, which although not the greatest kind of product to use, will eliminate the use of a light compound.

The PC-7424XP is the perfect all around work horse for the novice detailer. It works with everything from compounds to wax and you don't have to worry in the slightest about burning or damaging your paint. It also can be found anywhere from $100-$116. That's big time affordable considering you will be using it for more than just waxing your paint.

You need to take a look at these videos.

I never said it was needed. I said it's what I use for all of my work. I bought it for compounding. Does fine for wax, but yes, overkill if you're just waxing.