Royal purple or Amsoil
 

What should I go with. I heard both were good just getting opinions. Also I just hit my 100k Im probably gonna service it my self because knowing the dealer I might have to chop an arm and leg off.
Radiator flush
Power steering flush
Brake flush
Trans flush and new filter
Differential flush
Spark plugs---what brand?? I know AC delco is OE but maybe a different option.
Any PVC fittings? Any small items I might need?

No one could answer this question.

This is a very complex subject.

However, ester based, long chain molecule refinement might provide the best protection by comparison.

Having your oil analyzed can provide some insight as to the level of protection and deterioration of engine components and level of contaminates.

Changing your oil more frequently has much more value than brand.

Someone else may chime in but I have always heard it is a bad idea to flush an automatic transmission. It tends to loosen stuff up that ends up in places you don't want and causes failures. Just drain it and the diffy and replace the fluids.

I personally use Valvoline, but as long as the oil is a full synthetic and Dexos rated you should be alright.

I use Mobil 1 advanced. viscosity depending on the weather. using 15W-50 now, sits in traffic at around 105-107deg temps. Water wetter in the radiator. Redline in trans(manual), redline in Differential. RBF600 brake lines Dot4. never had to flush my power steering....Always had a manual, cant tell you on the auto though.
The plugs go with OEM they are iridium from the factory.

I've been running Amsoil in a wide range of vehicles and am very satisfied.

I used amsoil but in all honesty oil doesn’t matter much if it’s full synthetic and frequent changes. Mobil 1, Valvooline, Castro’s GTX. Doesn’t matter. My differentials I went with Mobil 1 and AC Delco limited slip bottle and Redline D4 for tranny

This is a loaded question. But since you gave a choice of two, I will go with Amsoil. Have heard stories about the Purple but never Amsoil

Every one has their favorites for one reason or another. I use Mobil 1 for everything. Always have and never had a single problem. My 1993 has been ridden hard and ,,,well you know the rest. Over 212,000 miles on her and not one single issue. So, that is why I stick with it. I could care less about what is popular at this time. If it works, I use it until it doesn't.


Spark plugs? You first need to find out what type your car requires from the owner's manual. Standard , iridium, and the list goes on. Also depends on your car and setup. Daily driver, weekend warrior? what? I personally use NGK as do a lot of other people on here. They will last 100k miles easy.

You are def. doing the right thing keeping up with the maintenance. Kudos to you. Your car will last a long time.

Personally I run Amsoil but we change it every 20-30 miles... unless it's just street driving then we might make it to 500 miles or so but thats horribly expensive at $15.00 a gallon and 3 MPG. So, I don't street drive very much and I change the oil before and after every racing event....

Spark plugs, I run NGK but for a very different reason....We change those every 8-10 miles depending on conditions...

If your OE plugs last 100K miles, Why change brands.... Slap a new set in there and run it for another 100K miles....

Amsoil was developed for jet engines in what, the 1950’s, when they were developed? Presumably these high RPM, (17,000 rpm) close tolerance engines, needed something superior. Fast fwd to the modern day and developmental cycle. Can’t go wrong with this product. In my opinion.

There are no oils that will majically make your car go faster, longer etc, than other spec oils. Go with whatever oil you want as long as it meets the car spec. In the end, it won't matter. Just change it on the OLM schedule at the very longest. Lets face it, in another 100k miles, the lawnboy will be driving it, smoking, singing mariachi songs, with fastfood trash, beer cans, and used condoms on the floor, anyway. Use a good filter (Wix XP, Mobil 1, STP, Amsoil, Royal Purple, Fram Ultra Synthetic, other known good ones for synthetic oils)

Now that’s funny!!!!
True....But funny!
:bellyroll:

:laughabove::laughabove::laughabove::laughabove:

All my fluids (minus P/S, coolant/brake fluid) are Amsoil and I change at the OLM's reading. No issues. I'm at 80K and I'll either use factory replacements or NGK when it's time to do the plugs.

92,000 Mile with Mobile one oils and Wix filters.
Change oil every 3,000-4,000 miles

Thanks for all the feedback, sorry, I fell off this post.

All the oils discussed are good. If your using quality oil the thing that is most important is the filter.

I use vr1 or amsoil with wix filter

I use Mobil1 in the engine and Royal Purple in the M6 and Dif .

I think a combustion engines oil get worked a hell of a lot more than turbines. Jet engines just have bearings that need to be lubed. Pumps and shafts use the lube but everything is bearings. It was developed due to the heat generated. A normal oil would coke up bad. Heck we dont ever change the oil in modern turbine engines we just add. Combustion engines get metal in it from wear and combustion byproducts.

As far as the automatic trans flush.. the general consensus is that if the vehicle has had it done all of its life, its fine to continue doing it. If it hasn't, don't because you'll dislodge stuff causing failure.

Dropping the pan and changing the filter only gets some of the old fluid out. You'll still have a lot in the converter and such.

In the past, to get all of the fluid changed out, I did this in my Yukon's 4l65E. Drop the pan, change the filter. Replace pan and top off.

pull the top cooler line (cooler inlet) and run a clear hose into a 5 gallon bucket so that you can see the hose from the drivers seat. You start the car and let it run. You turn it off right when you start to see air bubbles. This means the fluid is low. You then top it off again and do the same thing. You continue to repeat the process until you start to see the new color fluid coming out of the clear hose. Once you see new fluid come out, you know all the old is gone. Top it off and reinstall the cooler line. Now you have all new fluid and nothing flushed through the wrong way causing damage.

Do you ever take oil samples for submission to the NDI guys who burn soap samples.... You may know, but for those that don't, this is the practice of taking samples from all of the various oil and fluid areas on an aircraft.... The samples are then subjected to a mass spectrometer and burned down to the point of determining the exact amount of metals of a given type in each sample.... These are documented and tracked, and if you are cruising along with acceptable parameters of various base metals such as aluminum, titanium etc, and suddenly the aluminum goes from 225 ppm to 10,000 ppm, you pull that engine offline and determine the issue...

I know this was a frequent and often procedure when my brother was in the Air Force. This was part of his job as an NDI, (Non Destructive Inspection) chief. He still performs this as part of his work for Boeing in San Antonio....

No flush! Flip a coin and be done. Both great products.

I used to be an Amsoil dealer, so I use Amsoil for everything. Oil, trans, rearend, lube ,brakes, coolant, power steering, coolant additive. I have not transitioned my yard equipment over yet, but will soon. Zero issues, have tracked my car multiple times and change everything at beginning of year. I am interested in their detail products, will try them as I run out of the stock I have.

I use Royal Purple but used to use Castrol German. I get my oil at work at cost plus 5 is why I am using RP. I have also used Mobil 1 on my old 2001 Z28.

Bill

Amsoil all the way, not a fan of Royal Purple.

Now, for filters who does the best oil filter for the 6.2?

I use the K&K filter.

I've had two personal friends spin rod bearings using royal purple, I'd never use it. I love diesel oil and redline. check the "bob is the oil guy" forum for some light reading.

WIX is arguably one of the best. I use them as they're readily available.

The Amsoil filter is also highly rated. Another good one, that is not well known, is Donaldson.

I use the K&N with a Mobil 1 ever so often.

Bill

I would use either Mobil 5W30 or Valvoline SynPower 5W30. After using a lot of different synthetic motor oil brands I had my best oil analysis using Valvoline SynPower 5W30 in our 2010 Chevrolet Camaro SS with 275K+ miles on the clock (stock cam) using a AC Delco oil filter. I never had an oil related issue using Valvoline SynPower 5W30 it is a excellent quality synthetic motor oil to use in your L99 or LS3 or LSX engine. I do all my oil changes early at 3K-4K miles or every 3-4 months whatever comes first.

What oil does the Chevrolet dealer use? I recently purchased a 2010 V6 with high mileage (200k). The Carfax report says the oil was changed at the dealership, on time, every time by the original owner. That kinda surprised me. The first thing I did was to change the oil, 6 quarts of Mobil 1 advanced synthetic with filter. After 700 miles it was a little over a quart low! Nothing really in the catch can except 1/4 inch of milky condensation/oil fluid. Topped off the oil and drove another 400 miles or so. Only used a very small amount of oil and appears fine. Could changing from the oil used at the dealership to Mobil 1 advanced synthetic oil cause it to use a quart of oil initially?

NOT A FAN OF R.P., I HAVE USED AMSOIL BUT NOW USING MOBIL 1 0-40 EURO IN ALL BUT MY RACE CAR, WHICH I USE MOBIL 1 15-50. CHECK OUT THE SPECS AND TEST RESULTS ON THESE. I USE K&N AND WIX OIL FILTERS.

Amsoil all the way, but I usually just run Mobil 1, best bang for your buck

FWIW I use Mobil 1 5W-30 and NAPA filter "Gold 7060" which is, in fact, a Wix filter. I change my oil every spring regardless of mileage.