Ugly scratch - can it be fixed?
 

After a wash and wax I noticed this long scratch on the pillar next to the windshield (is that called the "A-pillar"?). I don't know if there was some debris on my wash mitt, drying cloth, or wax pad, but the scratch is there and I want it gone! I can feel it with my fingernail, and from what I've read, that means it has to be repainted. Am I wrong? Will buffing at least lessen its visibility? Here are a couple of pics with different reflected backgrounds.

Ironically, I had just bought a grit guard and this was the first time I'd washed with it!


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ps8d8f7afb.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ps9b81e073.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ps7bd2e30a.jpg

You can try polishing it out. It will at least make it less visible.

might have to wetsand it with some 2500 then polish. If anything, it will be way less noticeable if sanded and polished.

As always with suggestions, start with the least aggressive method first. So attempt to polish it starting with least to most aggressive polishes. If you are not satisfied after, you can look into wet sanding but sometimes that can create more problems if not done correctly.

Does not look too bad, as others have said, start with least aggressive actions first.

I always remove my ring and watch now when I wash/wax the car. Found that was a way to get random bumps to the paint.

Do NOT wet sand that. It can easily be removed by hand with Meguiars M105. Your local car parts store carries it.

As others have said, ALWAYS use the least aggressive method.

From the pic it doesn't look like it's through the clear, I'd clay they area all around it, wipe down with IPA to remove any wax/sealant left, and then use a DA (I'm assuming you have one) with a microfiber cutting pad.
I actually took a smaller length, but similar looking scratch off today using Megs D300 compound (It's a little less aggressive than M105), with their microfiber cutting pad. Took 4 passes with very slow arm speed, used speed 5 and it was gone.
The biggest thing is to figure out what caused it, so you won't do it again.
You mentioned you bought a grit guard, did you get just one? If so you'll want another for the rinse bucket as well.
Inspect your mitt/wash pad thoroughly prior to using, and after rinsing to make sure you have no debris on it. When using it do not apply a lot of pressure to the paint, just glide it slowly across, rinsing it often.
I see you have a convertible, I would use a different mitt/wash pad for the paint then what I use on the top, as loose impediments can gather easily on convertible tops.
When drying blot or drag the towel across the paint with very light/no pressure.

I believe so. Try with a polishing compound (for clearcoats) and/or as the others have suggested. A small pad with a DA polisher would be good for this task.

Work in short stages as you see the progress. Also use a less aggressive polish (like a swirl remover type) when you've achieved results from the polishing compound, with a polishing pad.

I've had bad looking scratches myself in the past that I was able to alleviate with these methods. A scratch always looks terminal, but with some careful technique many times you can fix a cc scratch and/or make it look acceptable or much less noticeable.

Edit: I misread the photos. I actually thought those were gashes. Forget the compound. Use a swirl mark remover and a 3" polishing pad, and you should be able to fix those. Those marks are smears or marr swipes that can sometimes happen with a dirty mf or even with some polish residue on your towel. I call those marks cat-scratches, but if I am looking at them correctly, then they should be entirely fixable.

Thanks for the detailed reply! :thumb:

"IPA"? Is that something like all-purpose cleaner? Certainly you don't mean India Pale Ale! :laugh: Seriously, I'll use something to de-wax the area.
I do have a DA, I just need to order some 4" pads (I already have the 3" backing plate). Do I need to change the counterweight for that, or will the 5" weight be sufficient?

At the time I was just using one in the rinse bucket, but I've since bought a second one.

That's another thing - right now I'm using a mitt I picked up from a local auto parts store. I'm going to order a couple of name brand ones (everyone seems to like the Incredi-mitt; I'll probably go with that).

I have a brush from Adams that I use solely for the top, so I'm covered there.

IPA= Isopropyl alcohol

Again, that can be removed by hand with M105 and a Micro Fiber applicator.

Seal glaze would take that right out no problem

Isopropyl Alcohol, it removes wax, sealant so your compound has nothing between it and the paint, you can also use it to remove any excess compound on the paint after your done using the compound.

It depends upon the machine your using. I'm guessing you have a PC, which does need a different weight as far as I know. Buff/Shine makes some really good microfiber 4" cutting pads.

The Microfiber Madness products are expensive compared to others, but you get what you pay for with them, best quality. I thought the 55 dollars I spent for the mitt and drying towel was a little too high. After using them I feel it's the best purchase I've made.

You could try the hand removal with 105 as suggested. I have tried it with the D300, which is kind of in between 105 and 205 for abrasiveness, and I can't remove anything.
Course I'm 48 yrs old now, but I somehow feel if I was back to 25 when I had 5% body fat and worked out 6 days a week, I still wouldn't get much farther, the clear on my car is hard as a brick :frusty:.

Would that take it out (remove it), or just fill it in/cover it up? I have a bottle of Adam's Brilliant Glaze, but as far as I know, it's not abrasive at all.

I have a bottle of M105 in my car cabinet. I haven't tried out yet, so I guess this will be as good a time as any.

I'll start out polishing by hand, then move up to the DA (as you guessed, it's a PC-XP) if that doesn't work. I also have a bottle of M205 in the arsenal if I need to step it up a notch. I'll post before and after pics if I get worthwhile results.

You have your 105 and 205 mixed up.

+1

The 205 is less abrasive. If you cannot remove it after using 205 on the DA go to 105. If you still can't remove it, it will need to be wetsanded, it's not hard to do.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-n9AZFYfH-E

From what i can tell based on the pics, that scratch isnt very deep in the clear coat, prob surface at most... if you can run your finger nail over it without it catching too bad then the seal glaze will prob buff that right off.

If you can actually feel it pretty well with your nail, hit it with some Presta Cutting Cream (carefully) then the seal glaze to finish it of.

Like someone said above always start with the least aggressive path and def do it by hand, not with a buffing wheel.

As for the Adams Brilliant Glaze you have, I have never used that brand so I can't comment on its performance, but based of what i see in this ( http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=228363 )
thread it works well

Sealants and glazes are not abrasives that buff anything right off..

Just tried to give the guy the least aggressive option first.

But that isn't even an option when it comes to polishing... A sealant is for protection and a glaze is for covering..

This is the stuff I've used...

"visually eliminates fine scratches and swirls"

http://www.meguiars.com/en/professio...alant-20-16oz/

the scratch looks pretty shallow in the pics, hence the less aggressive approach.

That's a glaze and sealant combo, which is filling in imperfections, hence the "visually eliminates". After the glaze wears off in a week the scratch will be back, which I doubt that would completely fill this scratch to begin with.

OP is looking for a permanent solution, which is achieved with polishing with a DA polisher.

He doesn't need a D/A for that. By hand will remove the least amount of Clear and give him the most control in that area.
Unless he tapes off the weather strip a D/A will cause a mess. I doubt he has a small D/A with a 1" or 2" BP & pad.

D/A will make quick work of it (me and you both know that DA polishing removes next to none clear anyway), no need for that small of a pad. You can use a 4in pad.

+1. You're less likely do do damage with a DA given the evenness of the pressure you apply. By hand leads to your fingertips applying more pressure in certain spots.

+2

IMO microfiber pads cut better than foam. Buff/Shine 4" pads are excellent.

In a skilled operators hand, yes I agree.

This I do not agree with, sorry. If you leave the paint uneven after polishing this small paint defect... take it to a pro, period. Use the proper applicator by hand and that will be removed in less than 5 mins. You couldn't even tape off the area and plug in the D/A in twice that amount of time.

I'll finish with this statement and it is not directed at anyone particular or in this thread but more to those reading this that have PM'd me at some point.
I get a lot of people PMing me for Detailing advice as most know that I have over 23 years in the business. They also ask why I don't post more in here with advice?
Well, It's because of threads like this.:biggrin: I try to give simple effective advice and every one else has a "better idea". If your methods work for you, so be it. I honestly don't have time to argue which is the best way.

My work and my name in the Detailing industry are proof positive I know what I am giving advice on.

Seth

When someone disagrees with you it's a 'better idea.' When it's your idea, it's proof positive. Lol.

Same reason I don't post much publicly anymore either.

No, it's that everyone has an opinion.:thumb:

On a board like this (not Detailer specific), most opinions should be questioned as this thread proves.

I respect your work in the business, but i would challenge anyone that I could remove said defect faster and better by hand than anyone with a D/A could. You could use a PTG to prove my point.
I truly believe that, but numerous people argue the fact. You just can't win.

Because someone has a difference in opinion, they are wrong? I find that a poor excuse to not post in a section because someone has a difference in opinion.

Again, it's not the different opinions, in fact I'm always willing and able to learn.
ANYONE who knows me will testify to my humbleness and willingness to teach and help.

And for me personally as I'm not a confrontational type of person, it just isn't worth it.

It always turns into this and turns us Pros away. It's simple as that.

http://www.rickscamaros.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=dr+chip

For all of you who struggle with the paint chipping

It's disappointing, it's always nice to have different voices here in the detailing section.

I believe the shit storms come from people that refuse to accept that other people are entitled to their own opinion just like they do, whether they want to agree or not.

Agreed now let's all :grouphug: and sing kumbaya

You'll find that butting heads (when it comes to detailing) is commonplace on the internet.

We all know what works for each of us, so agree to disagree and move on.

I disagree, a standard free spinning DA is easy to use, you have an on/off switch and a speed setting, the higher speeds for compounding, middle speeds for polishing, low speeds for wax/glaze and spreading.

The only real basic skill is learning to apply the proper pressure to break down the compound or polish so it does it's job, and using slow enough arm speed to remove the defect over the entire area it encompasses.

Advanced skill would be the ability to look at a defect and know exactly what pad/polish is needed to remove it using least aggressive pad/polish.

You may be able to do this, I've tried it and found I cannot, my paint is just too hard. I've also found that a scratch this long can have different depths in it, some places in it may require wet sanding. Hopefully this won't be the case for the OP. But if it is, wetsanding is not a hard thing to do.

Anyway I think with a PC and the right pad/polish the OP will do just fine.

I haven't gotten any advice from you that produced negative results, I don't take it personally if your advice differs from what I think, I try it, and if it's easier/more effective, which it usually is, I now have more time to work on keeping my car clean. Which having an un-garaged daily driver takes a lot of time. So by all means post to help others out.

You don't want me ridin' dirty do ya?:sad0147:

+1 CD07 has written up things that have help me out quite a bit. I find it lowers the learning curve a bit, as well as an unbiased review on various products.

Thanks everyone for all the advice.

I went to work on the scratch today, and probably got it down to about half of what it was. I don't want to go further than that, because I can't judge how deep it is into the clear coat, and I don't want to hit paint. Still, it's barely noticeable now. In fact, it's only noticeable if I look for it.

I started with a black pad and Meguiar's Ultimate Polish Pre-waxing Glaze. It's barely abrasive at all, but the bottle says "Eliminates fine swirl marks", and I already had it in the shop, so I gave it a try. Naturally, no results on the scratch, so I moved up to a white pad and M205, then switched to M105. I finally went for broke and used an orange pad with M105 and started seeing a difference. I probably spent about 40 minutes total on it, and am satisfied with what I've accomplished.

My first correction job! (thanks in part to you guys!) :thumbup: