Smallest Comp cam VVT cam clearance for L99.
 

The one thing I want is a stock, low, steady idle or as close to it as possible. Horsepower is a plus but I don't want to sway too much away from fuel economy and this engine, with its VVT system, would help in that aspect. I do want to delete the AFM/DOD. So this is why I am looking for a camshaft to replace the factory unit.

According to my research, here is the cam specifications for the L99 camshaft from the factory.

195/201 Lift .500/.492 Lobe Separation (degrees)115*

I called up Comp Cams and asked them if their smallest VVT cam would closely match the stock cam and if I needed to upgrade cam phaser limiter and valve springs.

They told me that the following cam would be a direct bolt on with stock parts. That the specs of the cam they recommend would be very similar to the stock cam and the lift is so minute. Stock idle and would probably not even notice that its cammed. So here's the cam specs from Comp VVT cam.

Part# 156-400-13
210/224 Lift .556/568 Separation (degrees)114*

My question to you guys:
Would this cam be good for my goal? Is it true that no springs or phaser upgrade is needed with no worries of pistons kissing the valves?
I am looking for a second opinion. I have a 2013 Camaro L99 engine, All stock.

First of all, welcome to Camaro5!

I understand not going massively wild with a cam build, but why go so small that you can't even tell the car is cammed? It seems like that could be a waste of money to just put a cam in to have a cam if there's not much difference. A cam like a stage 1 from Texas Speed, Brian Tooley Racing, GPI, or others seems like a better bang for the buck.

Honestly wouldn't waste the time or money. That's alot of work for very little gain.

For automatic you will appreciate wide LSA. You should consider a bigger cam just make sure the lobe separation is right, give Janetty Racing a call if your unsure they have custom grinds that will give you just what your asking about...

Thank you for the welcome!!

Well I definitely understand why many would say go bigger. But the only reason why I want a cam is so that I have a totally normal cam without the AFM/DOD cam specs.

According to http://www.onallcylinders.com/2017/1...on-gm-engines/ it states "because the cam lobes in the four AFM cylinders are ground differently. The engine will have 25 less pounds of compression in those four cylinders."

I know its a lot of work but this engine is a swap and I want to stay as close to stock as possible. I wont even have the connector for the LOMA due to a custom harness for this engine and wish to delete the AFM completely. Just a normal V8 firing on all eight cylinders with VVT is what I'm after. Getting a LS3 cam wont allow me to keep VVT so an aftermarket cam is the way to get what I want.
I am happy with a 400 hp engine and not really interested in more power. Just a normal VVT cam for now.

So do you guys think with full stock cam phasing, the valves wont touch the pistons?
I will upgrade to PAC springs #1218 1200 Series

Have you thought about getting a range AFM delete? Like $100 on the forums and it just plugs into the obd port. No need to spend a bunch of money on a cam or tear the car apart. Seems to me like if all you’re interested in is being 8cyl all the time while still having vvt, that’s the way to go

I have but I need the port for other things. A lot of the features will be disabled but I want reliability and no worries of the AFM lifters failing in the future. I strictly prefer to replace all lifters and do a full delete for my build.

Also bear in mind that a bigger cam also means getting a cam phaser limiter. What peaks my interest of the baby cam is that I get to keep the stock 52 degrees of timing adjustment with stock phaser. But I just want to get confirmation from you guys or an expert or experienced person to let me know if it would be safe from valve clearance problems with the cam specs I have listed.

I know the general consensus is get bigger cam which means more power. Not my interest. I want a stockish cam to run max timing adjustment with VVT.

Two issues I see. If you go similar size as stock you arnt Realy gaining anything except a lighter wallet. The recommendation of a TSP, GPI or BTR stage 1 cam is probably your best choice.

Second, if you are doing a cam you should really replace the afm lifters. I know Tsp makes an afm lifter cam but I would not trust those lifters. You can stil keep vvt while upgrading the cam and switching to all LS3 lifters

Yes I am changing all lifters. Doing a full DOD delete. And would upgrade springs to .600 lift. This is not a budget build and I'm ok with the money it will cost to do the cam swap. I am interested in total removal of the AFM system and replacing it with a cam that would probably be in the engine from the factory if they just made it with VVT.

I did see all the other stage 1 cams (TSP, GPI or BTR stage 1 cam) and I know they add more power than this cam. But they also need a cam phaser upgrade witch limits the cam timing. Its simple. Stock cam(ish). No AFM/DOD. No weird lifters. No power increase needed. That's what I want. I know it will cost money, but I don't care about what it costs.

stock LS3 cam...

you'll need new valve springs and i would go with psi 1511ml springs over anything from pac. ls3 springs might work as well if you are looking to stick with a budget, just unsure of the total lift they can handle.

not sure on the VVT parts but definitely swap the afm lifters with LS7 lifters

Sounds like you know what you want to do. That cam will work fine but if you want reliable you definitely need to swap out the springs too. Something .600 lift or greater is highly recommended. We have plenty of spring kits and a afm delete kit if you are still looking.

I missed the part you were replacing all of the afm junk. I wish our cars never came with it

If you don't want to use a range device just get an SCT X4 and custom tune from DynoSteve download the tune and AFM is tuned out and you still have access to the ODB port. Changing a cam and all that stuff is not needed and stiffer springs now you have to replace them every 25k miles.