Cooling for my 427LSX TT bad boy! What's best?
In 90*F weather here in California with stop and go driving I am getting up to 232*F coolant temps and not liking it. I am running the AGP race intercooler so that is a big issue. Thinking about 3 things to change.....bigger alum radiator....higher cfm fans and a electric water pump to be controlled by my Pro EFI computer.
Flex a lite had a nice radiator /fan set up that they have now discontinued. So it looks like there is only Mishimoto ($400)or Be Cool ($900) for radiator options for a 2010 SS. Does anyone know of any other options? Also.....can't seem to find any higher cfm aftermarket fan system upgrades either.....anyone know of any? Anyone upgrade their cooling systems???? |
Aux water pump will get you 4° cooler — when moving, maybe 2 when not — I have a bigger rad (CSF), separate trans (auto) and oil coolers, plus all the hx coolers — still gets to 217° In the summer. More venting of the engine bay and a belly pan would help. I also created baffling to force the air through the radiator.
I’d see if you can baffle the air towards the radiator and eliminate areas where it can sneak around it — bottom, sides, top. Belly pan would help with pressure differences also... I looked for fans, the only thing I founds was a JMS fan booster to run the fans faster at idle — that is another option. It gets hot here too ;o) -Don |
Check Ron Davis. I love my heat exchanger. Not cheap.
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Before you spend big money on parts, make sure you're directing air through the radiator.
I assume you/your tuner has lowered the fan turn on temps? Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk |
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I had a custom radiator made.
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Happy birthday Glenn! But hey I dont see coolant temp issues at all and I have the race intercooler, I would assume you have the 160 Tstat? Also running ethanol would help a ton. Get that dex coolant out of there and run all water with some water wetter.
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I'm pretty sure the highest CFM fans out are the PWM Spals. Copy Scuzz's set-up.
Aux cooling at the back of the car works great too. Brake up the cool job around the car more. |
Id look at a radiator from the guys at C&R. Also look into the tune. If on e85 richen up the idle and the temps will drop some. im assuming you already have a 160* stat?
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Just a note about the guys mentioning running a lower Tstat. If your car is running 230 degrees at idle it does not matter if you have a 120 degree Tstat or a 210 degree Tstat. Directing air flow is a big one. Scuzz that had his custom made has an awesome shroud that makes sure all air from the fans goes through the radiator and not pulled around gaps. A larger radiator can help increasing cooling capacity. Running a longer loop aux set up would fix it but probably be my last attempt. I don't personally like electric water pumps, I like a mechanical pump, just feels more reliable to me.
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If you have no risk of freezing you would benefit from straight distilled water and water wetter.
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ZX1truth, Scuzz and I are in the same boat; but Scuzz is way ahead of us. I don't have the stop-and-go getting hot issue but if I run at higher RPMs, I get hot 230*F plus. Still stock radiator and fans but did adjust the tune for the fans to come on faster, earlier. I'm thinking I'll try the DeWitt 1-1/2" tube radiator (versus the 1" tube) first, but that fancy shroud sure looks pretty.
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I have a steel block, FMIC, upgraded radiator, A/C, etc. I even upped the pulsewidth on the stock fans, until it melted the OEM fan connectors.
When I lived in Vegas, the temps would typically be about 220 w/ A/C. I used distilled water and RMI-25. Even so, my oil temps would climb to uncomfortable numbers. |
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