Stock MyLink Spec's (2013 thru 2015)
 

Does anyone know the specifications on the mylink unit (Stereo Separation, s/n ratio, freqy bandwidth, etc)?

I don't recall ever seeing the full specs ever listed (for any model).

Junk, trash, worthless and crap that produces noise barely qualifying being called a radio.

The speakers are the equivalent of $25/pr Walmonkey specials and the radio is worth about $200. 50w x 4 @ 10% THD @ 2ohm, S/N in the 80 dB range, 80hz-17khz +/- 10dB.

Not all of us care that much on the power the stock radio has, but its nice to see you care, i was this way 35 years ago.

:thumbsup:

I know that it is balanced output, and I was informed that it has approximately 8v output. Not absolutely sure, but the source is pretty reputable.

8v-> 2ohm = 32w and no, there are no reports showing they are balanced balanced outputs. Please show source. I can just about guarantee there are no resisted measurements of speaker wire or signal wire to / from the amplifier performed during production and zero quality control over the process. There is a left and right separated two channel sound but this is all done internally, there isn't even a rear channel just a 2+2 (signal is copied/split to the rear).

I've never understood the absolute fascination or public acceptance of OEM systems by non-audiophiles. Ppl think because a radio is placed in a 25k, 50k, 100k, 300k vehicle that the inherit quality is directly linked to the price of the car somehow. You cannot fathom how far from the truth this is. I actually had a guy tell me the radio was 10% cost of the vehicle once. My favorite was watching the owner of a B&W Audi system nearly have a heart attack when his car was gutted and he was shown the utter trash he paid $9,000 for as an audio upgrade.

Comparing OEM radios to aftermarket would be like comparing the Ford Model-T to a modern Ferrari. The sourced speakers cost about $1 each and the radio maybe $50. Granted, the quality gap between OEM and aftermarket has closed substantially over the last 30 years, even the most basic of aftermarket systems is 10x better. You think those $5 retail paper cones are an actual Boston Acoustic system in your vehicle? :pound:

Have no paper source to prove it. I gathered this information from trusted friend of mine, Natan. He is not on the forum here, but he has worked for some of the OEM divisions of Panasonic and Pioneer.

Good enough, though honestly it's not an important spec in the grand scheme of things.

:happy0180:

True that!! I was having some issues using the low level inputs of my bit one.1, with the reverse chimes being very low, since I had soldered RCA ends on the high level outputs from the head unit. He was concerned that the balanced signal coming from the head unit was not jiving very well with the low level inputs of the bit one, since they were unbalanced. Moving them to the high level of the bit one did clean up the level of the reverse chime drastically.

ugh...ok, the OEM HU has a hard coded signal balancer in it to offset the cabin and speakers, basically a preset DSP/EQ. Using a bit.1 on an OEM HU unit is like using two offsetting equalizers.

I mean, you're going down the right path but I would want to choke the life out of your installer if you had one.

You are correct, I tried to choke myself, lol!!!! For most of my music and video, luckily, I am using the bit play HD, which is independent from the head unit.

Introducing a high fidelity pure input = gold :thumbsup: