Well..I'm not interested in fuel economy for this car, nor will I operate it in the winter, so I am definately going to run 10w30 not 5w30.
I will lose a small amount of hp, but 5w30 is too thin for performance usage. The only reason for running 5w oil is to boost fuel economy or hp or if you live in the arctic. I will stick with synthetic, because synthetic is a better lubricant due to the long chain molecules and purity of the base product. I will either use Lucas, or Amsoil or Mobil. I am not an amsoil religion person, but if you look at the comparisons, no lubricant supplier will claim superiority to Amsoil. |
I saw the question raised in the first post but didn't see an answer to it yet (or atleast I overlooked it)...... Since the engine is coming from the factory with synthetic already in it, does that mean they are seating the pistons right off the assembly line? Just curious if I need to take out the synthetic for the break-in period and then re-aply the synthethic after 1000 miles.
Thanks in advance. |
I will do my own oil changes and service. Just going to be summer driver and will most likely use a synthetic oil. After break in. As for synthetic vs conventional they both get dirty so spend more every 3000 or spend less every 3000. I have used conventional on my Nova (420 hp 400 lb-ft) for the past 10 years and had no problems. Let your driving conditions and wallet decide. My 2 cents.
Filter Wix all the way or (NAPA Gold) same same. |
What do ya'll think of that Mobil 1 "Extended Performance" Synthetic. It's supposed to be good for 15,000 miles. That seems like an awful long time to go between oil changes, but that's what they claim! I've been using it in my Silverado for some time now with good results, but the "change oil" idiot light still comes on at about 4-5000 miles. I don't usually let it go any longer than that. Sure would be nice to go 15,000 miles, but I don't want to take the chance. At $6-7 a quart, it is comparable to the AMSOIL and RP, but just wondering if there is any truth to the 15K claim. Any thoughts?
|
Quote:
I couldn't do it. It won't remove tiny metal particles that build up in the oil pan. Corvette Forum has several informative threads on this topic, regarding the LS3. People that waited more than 5000 miles, found excessive amounts of metal particles in the pan. Use a magnetic drain plug too. The later LS3's come with them from the factory. |
Quote:
Quote:
For sure, anyone looking to keep their warranty valid is well advised to do exactly what the manual says and document it as much as possible. Quote:
|
Good info to know, thank you. I thought it measured the viscosity of your oil somehow. Guess I was wrong. Thanks for the tip. But, still it doesn't quite make sense because if remember correctly, if I reset the light without changing the oil, the oil light comes back on after a few start ups. Weird! I'll have to verify that next time my light comes on.
|
15k between oil changes seem way to long. The oil lubricating properties may not break down, but the oil would be filled with metal by then and cause a lot more wear. I used Mobil 1 and Red Line in the past with a truck I used for heavy towing (14K +) and went well over 100k before selling for a new one and never had any engine failures. If you go say 6k between oil changes then at least change your filter every 3k with a high quality filter.
|
Quote:
Quote:
now as for the 10w30 vs 5w30..... damn, im glad im on this site as far as "thicker" oils vs "thinner" oils (which isnt really true, because thicker doesnt always mean higher viscosity, just as thinner doesnt always mean lower viscosity. thinner/thicker has to be taken in account with viscosity, flow rate, and shear strength): take 5w-30 vs 10w-30 some people think 5+30=35 10+30=40 DONT EVER DO THIS. this is stupid math. the first number is the flow characteristic in like 32f the 10w means that it flows better at 32f/0c. so if you live in a colder climate, a 5w oil would be better for start up conditions. as for the other number, that is for the operating temp flow characteristic. however, the differences are minimal and are so close in ambient flow rates that its a toss-up. Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...=oil+viscosity |
oh....and....
Quote:
|
I agree that mileage is no longer a factor, but oil synthetic or not still get dirty and the filter should be changed for extended life oil. Even when the wear is minimal I would rather have a filter change as insurance other wise why have a filter at all. Please correct me if I'm wrong.:)
Still like to change my oil every 3k, just for the simple reason stated above. If I change my filter it's not that much more to drain the pan. For about half of my cars the ones that I dive in the summer that's may one or two a year. My daily drives about four or five a year. |
Thanks for the good info.:headbang:
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
I think I read somewhere that Chrysler's system does measure the oil viscosity and such. IIRC, it uses electric conductivity of the oil to measure how much life remains. From http://www.goodwrench.com/Services/OilChange.jsp Quote:
|
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:17 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.