Will these parts work for me?
 

First I'd like to preface this with, I've searched, I've read, and searched some more, until my eyes bled. The amount of info on this forum is amazing.
But.. I'm still kind of confused.

A lot of the posts I read on here recommend amps and speakers that are either not available anymore or in my price range.
I basically want to turn up the jams a bit louder while I have the sunroof open and heading to the beach, and have it sound half way decent.
So, bearing that in mind, will this plan of attack work, and moreover, will these parts be okay:

Stock Head Unit
FARK
JL Audio JX400/4D (with appropriate Amp wiring kit, any suggestions on that?)
to these in the door:
Infinity PR6500CS (with SAK075 adapters)
Running another set of the Infinity PR6500CS in the back, on a custom mount (see below)

I also read on here I might have to use the Metra 72-5600 to connect the speakers using the factory wires, so I dont have to cut the speaker wires, is that true? is there something similar for the back speakers?

If all sounds good I'd stop there, if not, I'd add another amp and toss in an 8 inch sub.
Also I've seen people talk about the LC6/7i's; the 6i appeals to me for price, and I'm not sure if I would need the extras that come with the 7i. Is this something I can add later on if I think its needed?

What I want to do, Is also not tear up my back deck, If I can bypass the rear speakers and Just leave them there, I want to cut some plywood to fit the opening of the back seat into the trunk area.
Line it to match, Mount everything to it, and I can raise and lower the back seat as needed. I'll see if i can post some mock up pics of my idea.

Again, thanks if you made it this far, and any info you can give me. This all came about when I went to a couple of local places (one of which was car toys) and I thought.. nope, doing this myself.

*edit* this is for a 2010 2SS.
Cheers

no one? any info at all?

IMHO, I would do away with the rear set of comps, as they are not spread far enough from each other to actually attain stereo sound. Use that $80 to get as much Noico 80 mil sound deadening as you can. Use it to deaden your doors fully, and what’s left put on the back deck.

Then, my recommendation would be spend a little more on your front stage speakers. Take a look at the Morel Maximo or Tempo line. You might get a great deal on a used set on eBay. I would also look at replacing the JL 400/4 with the Pioneer GM-D8604, which saves you about $100, gives you more power (this amp tested at 123 rms), which pays for your upgraded front speakers!

For your sub stage, take a look at the Pioneer GM-D9601. it does 500@4 ohms, 800@2, and 1200@1. Also look into an Audiofrog G series sub. Tons of performance per dollar. Both of these amps can usually be found on ebay for half of MSRP, which is about $200-220.

I love my Audiofrog equipment, and will recommend it to anyone, as it’s world class quality and the customer service is second to no one. I understand most people will not invest in top of the line stuff, but I’ve also been told that Audiofrog is coming out with a budget line of passive components soon that will compete/beat anything out there at whatever they price it at. I heard it will be available early this summer possibly. That definitely might be worth waiting for, plus it gives you time to prepare your car for upgraded tunes.

Whatever you decide to do, please post your equipment decisions, pics of your install progress, and impressions of the final system. Hope this helps!

Thanks for the reply!

Given me some other equipment to think about is not a bad thing, I like that amp. If I go with that amp, due to it being a 1200 watt amp, would I have to run new wire to my door speakers to handle it?
The main reason for my amp and speaker choices for the front door, I had read going above 100 watt would require me to run new wire into the doors.

I do need the FARK correct? any other wiring kit/connectors I may need to get.

Only reason I am trying to avoid taking apart the back is I have severe back issues, and my left knee gives me a lot of issues. so its kinda hard to get back there and work like that.
I went to car toys in my area to see if they could do my rear speakers for me, and after 15 minutes with him telling me how uneducated I was and how i could never possibly understand all the stuff he was telling me he was going to put in my car. I decided despite my own issues, I'd give it a go myself.

I plan on trying my board idea first, I'm not sure the distance will be a big factor as they will be about 5-6 inches closer to each other than they would in the back deck, I may be able to angle them a bit to negate that. Either way, i'm out a piece of wood in my back yard and about 30-60 mins of wiring it up (hell i cant wait to do it for the hell of it lol). If it turns out I do have to place them in the deck properly.. I'll pretty much have to find someone to do that for me :(

thanks again for your reply!

*will do on the pics and stuff, I'm debating on getting a new gopro, since i still have a gopro hero 2 lol, that 5's in my price range hehe.

cheers.

Go for it, man! Stock speaker wires should be ok. You can always upgrade later. With the 8604, 1200 watts is max, and you would never see that, if matched to preout voltage on the head unit. If you ever did, it would be for milliseconds on music.

I'm considering that amp combo for sure. What gauge Amp kit would i need for that? 4 or 8 gauge?

I'm hoping to start on this next month, i'm starting back to work for the first time in over a month (out with a broken foot) once the checks start coming back in, i'll be getting on this.

This is actually my 3rd 2010 ss, but the first one I really wanna throw some stereo equipment in, and have some fun with it a bit.

thanks again
Cheers

You could prob get away with 8 gauge, but I would use 4 gauge for safety sake. Can’t wait to your progress.

If are going to use the FARK wire adapter kit you will NOT need the Audio Control LC6/7i's. One or the other will work, but the Fark is cheaper in price and does not need a 12 Volt power source which can introduce noise into the system. The Fark works awesome as i use one myself.

I started with an LC (forget which one) and went to a Fark. Should have done Fark on day 1. I'm running a JL 900/5 with a sub and it sounds good. If you don't do a sub I'd imagine the 400/4 would work fine. Then again it's been years since I've looked at audio equipment so I'm sure there is better now

Personally, i would use a LC whatevermodelyouget with FARK, why? Because it gives control. Also, FARK doesnt work with most amps. most cheaper amps tend to have issues with the voltage coming in ( experienced with expensive amps too ) only JL and kicker take HI/LO inputs on their RCA section of the amp.

With the LC inline, it lets it convert it for any amp, which can also restore bass via accubass, and it cleans the signal up.

Hope its okay to necro my own thread..

so i scratched the above idea all together..
I ordered an JL Audio RD400/4 (didnt get the XD to save some cash to put towards sound dampening and other goodies,) If i have any issues what so ever with this amp, i'm fully well and prepared to bite the bullet and trade up to get the XD400/4 if needed.
With that out the way.

Anyone doubting what people say about what it takes to put a stereo in this car, and want to cut corners or go cheap.. dont.. just.. dont.
Once you get back there and see there is NO padding or dampening, it becomes a quest.. a need.. to cover all that damn metal.

I'm going to use some Frost king in the battery compartment/well, and do the rear fenders behind the carpet.. (places you cant see basically) the visible areas will get Noico (in black foil tho) i have about 36ft coming. that will hopefully finish the trunk, and maybe leave me enough to do the back deck.

Doing all this piecemeal Amp and dampen first, then i will do speakers at a later date (back deck first tho, and not the doors, as i want to finish up the deadening in the rear half first and foremost.
moving to the doors and door speakers at a later date.

So my plan of attack:
Amp and sound deaden (going for at least 85%-90% coverage in trunk and back area at least)
Back deck speakers/finish deaden back seat area
Door speakers/ deaden doors.
Much much later.. remove seats/carpet and do under there.
I'd really love to do the roof.. but.. who knows..


If i can clue anyone in with some tips. have ready:

Metric socket set/wrench set (dont leave them across town in your storage like i did and go buy a new set to save a trip lol)
You will need a T45 to remove the seat belt top post mount, and a 7mm wrench (box/open end) for 2 small screws on either side of the back deck side trim (A panel? that what they call it?)
Interior trim pull tool(s)!!! BUY THEM..NOW!!!
sand paper
multitester (should go without saying)
start stock piling some Noico, or Dynamat sooner than possible.. if you even THINK you're going to change speakers.. buy the noico/dynamat early
pre pull out your interior.. do it the day you get your tools.. it will make you expedite your work effort lol.
clean freakin every surface back there.
I'll attach some pics if i can. i have the trunk nice and stripped.. just gonna go buy a shop vac tomorrow so i can vacuum out a lot of stuff at the bottom before i clean the metal.

I went up and got some of the frost king stuff tonight with a shop vac.. i'll start on that stuff tomorrow. I'll be at work when the noico arrives thursday, so i get to drive half naked for a couple days until i'm off saturday, and i'm going to try and get it all put together by then.
picked up a solder gun and some heat shrink wrap as well..gonna do this all as right as i possibly can. which lead me to return the CCA kit i got and order an OFC wiring kit.

This is as budget as i feel comfortable with and i'm in it for hundreds as it is, and have actually blown my speaker money on the things i feel need to be done (not griping, wont take long to make it back up lol)


Big ups to the guys in this forum who have posted their builds. you're posts are literally priceless.

this is where i'm thinking of mounting my amp. I have some 90 degree rca connectors, and i can move the amp over toward the drivers side if it looks like the wiring would be in the way of the trunk latch..

Decided to stick with 6x9's in the back so i went with some kappa's to match the door speakers.. just waiting for my speaker adapters to come in from subt's site..

cant wait to be done with all this so i can listen to them lol