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I hate to say, but the 3.6L in a Camaro is a long stretch from a sporty car. It's for people who either don't care about performance and want a Camaro based solely on looks, or they couldn't afford a V8 and had to settle. The 3.6L is junk Imo. The only V6 pony car I'd own would be the 3.7L Mustang. I hope you get it taken care of asap. If it were me and you were able to get it fixed again, I'd unload that thing like yesterday and get something more reliable
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I am curios to see what happens. I disagree about the opinion that the v6 Camaro is for those that cannot afford a v8 since the 3.6 is in many Cadillac products and having a v6 2013 myself has been a nice driving business coupe from my point of view until my engine blew up a couple of months ago...….of course after 4 weeks to replace the engine I got rear ended for a second time 2 weeks later.
I have it back now but it is likely worth nothing so might as well keep it and run it. Since I have to do that I would like to see where this leads. |
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i will start the fest off by saying that ive only had to add about a quart of oil total in the 3 years ive owned my camaro.33,000 miles with oil changed every 5,000.as long as youre not spinning the tires off every light or drag racing the 6 is perfectly fine.
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About 7 yrs ago, I remember a club member while visiting family, had to get a new engine after driving up to Philly, no oil and he had checked it prior to the trip and it was full.
You're probably not leaking any oil....the 3.6 LLT consumes oil. Some more than others. |
I change my oil every 3000 miles. I check my oil every Saturday morning before I take off for the day. I am 1003 miles shy of my next oil change and I have yet to have to add any oil.
Mine is a daily driver. I don't baby it, but I don't rod the shit out of it either. I usually run it up to about 3500-4000 rpms between shifts and try to maintain a cruising rpm of 2800. |
All I can say good about the 3.6L is it has filled my wallet quite a few times, can't wait for more of them to come out of warranty. It is my least favorite engine GM has made, ever.
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I drove a LFX for 12K and never added oil over and above an oil change. But then I traded for a ‘sporty’ Camaro. BAAHH :pound:I suspect most folks who admit to a ‘little spirited driving’ go beyond that at times. Myself included. But I get the wanting to run it, they just ask for it.
I think when you squeeze every bit of HP from a, uh, lesser endowed motor, it is more prone to fail when pushed. There, that should add another page to two! :popcorn: |
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The 3.6 LLT is actually an amazing engine, and the LFX an improvement on the LLT. The issues are common with ALL GDI engines. And this involves several things. First is the oil used. As all GDI engines experience many times the raw fuel wash-down as prior port injection engines, the oil is constantly thinned by this raw fuel. The dealers only put cheap syn blend in these so that combined with the abrasive particulate matter also entering in far larger amounts creates wear issue for the timing chains and tensioners. Then, the oil the dealer uses is far to thin as far as viscosity so that also contributes to wear. Now, the LLT and the LFX had NO low oil warning indicator until 2013 model year, so many have been run low on oil or even out of oil. This takes out the rod bearings and complete engine failure is the result.
Now, why do these and most GDI engines "use oil"? All modern engines use low tension piston rings, so properly seating these rings when new is critical. How is this done? Well the GM instructions for techs (that none of them read or use it seems) is when new, after making sure all fluids are full and no leaks, you take it to a back road for safety, and from a roll in second gear go wide open throttle to 5,000 RPMS and allow the engine to brake the car back down leaving it in second gear so it loads the rings in both directions. Do this 4-5 times and rings will be seated fully as good as they can get. If you break it in easy, odds are the rings will never properly seat, or abrade into the shape of the cylinder walls, and after 500 or so miles a hard glaze forms over the cross hatch hone pattern and the window has passed and you will most likely have oil consumption issues the life of the engine. Then, ALWAYS get that first oil fill and filter out, and ONLY run a full synthetic oil in the 10w40 range. We prefer Amsoil 5w50. Another issue that these engines had prior to 2013 is the PCV orifice was designed with far to small of a restriction hole and the "drill mod" must be performed. You need to remove the barb from the rear of the passenger side valve cover and drill the top 1/8" and the two bottom holes to 5/64" as these pictures show it becomes clogged and forces oil backwards out the fresh side of the PCV system to be ingested via the main intake air bridge: http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psjggnrxb9.jpg http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...pslgquqcns.jpg None of this helps you now, but I assume you drive easy and used the cheap to thin of oil from the dealer, correct? There is a shop in the Tampa FL area that does LFX swaps including engine and tune for well under $5k if your going to replace the engine again. More questions? Just ask. ALL GDI engines experience these same issues and it takes steps by the owner to get them to last. |
I am running Valvoline dexos rated 5W-30 full synthetic.
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