Please confirm my catch can hose routing
 

Hey everyone,

I’m building crankcase pressure under boost and it’s causing a minor oil leak on the driver’s side, just above the PS pump. For the life of me, I can’t visually identify the seal that’s leaking. It must be buried under the accessories. Anyhow, it only leaks when I’m in full boost, otherwise is dry, which makes me suspect that crankcase pressure is building. I’ve done the pcv valve drill mod and have an Elite Engineering E2 can with dual exit ports. Overkill SC. I’d like to solve the issue and retain the Elite can, so I’m not really interested in the “switch to MM or other brand” unless that’s a last resort. I’m running Will’s standard check valves (flowing away from the can) to the intake manifold and SC intake. Here is a diagram of how everything is setup. Can I please get some confirmations or :thumbdown: on the routing? Thanks!

I believe the line going to your oil filler has to have a check value. I have basically the same hookup but with no line going to the oil filler

You only need a check valve between the catch can and the intake, as well as the catch can to its boost vacuum source (the elbow at the blower intake) the css is just a fresh air inlet to the filter flange with no check valve. There is supposed to be no restriction in that area to promote maximum clean air flow through the PCV system.
That is what I was told. I have also found that if I did not put a check valve in the line to the Evap solenoid that I would bleed boost into the EVAP system over 7.2 PSI in the intake manifold. You are also probably going to need a restriction in the line from the center of the catch can to the dirty side. This was also from personal experience of over evacuation.
Collecting oil in your catch can is not a sign of proper function unfortunately. Oil should stay in the motor. The goal for me was to get rid of the acidic and harmful blow by GASES. When they are forced to settle in the catch can it is a very different liquid that smells like sulfur and can be foamy or watery oily substances.
It's a very hot topic, but that is my personal take on a system set up how you had drawn the diagram.

P.S. what I experienced was a blown seal at the valve cover gasket and 2 spark plug tube. The cure was the restriction I put in line from the can to the dirty side, which bottle necked my 1/2 to roughly 3/8. But most importantly was from the intake manifold to one port on the catch can. It was reduced from a 3/8 to 1/4. Do you get any squeal? Try pinching the hose and go for a drive and see if it induces a leak or not after you reduce the over vacuum on the system (if that is the issue like mine was)

Thanks for the response guys. I finally connected with Jason at Elite Engineering who, to my surprise, also worked on developing the Overkill SC kit. He was confident that my issues were related to the plastic GM check valves that Will sent with my kit for the intake and SC exit lines out of the can. He said they’re restrictive and might be allowing pressure to build in the crankcase. Plus he’s sending me a new Venturi tube to stick in the SC inlet spot for better suction under boost.

I’m running the E2 can, which isn’t ideal for di engines apparently, so I was debating between the E2-x or Utlra can. I opted for the last one since it’s not much more and would cover any build you could dream up. Parts should be here today after a FedEx delay so I’ll install and see how it goes.

I’m surprised that you thought you had over evacuation going on LuckySave. I don’t get any noise out of the can lines and only have a little bit of oil in the can when I check it. I will keep that in mind though if the new setup doesn’t solve my issues. I also had oil in one spark plug tube when I took everything apart to replace the valve covers. Replaced valve cover gaskets and tube gaskets with the Fel-Pro set, so we shall see.

check valve on both of the lines out of catch can. my issues came from removing the original passenger orifice and replacing with the 1/2" that Overkill sent. i know it sounds not probable with the aluminum valve cover, but it can be done, on accident ha ha. Over all the whole kit that was listed as brand name arrived as alibaba parts. except the K&N filter, and a precision turbo BOV (wave spring used but he left out the vacuum adjustment shims it should have had) i had to install some dramatic in line hose reducers. basically bottle necked with standoffs.

your diagram is spot on as i was told from tracey lewis. but they also have a new connector that supposedly increases the venturi effect at the pre valute connection. i couldnt use it because it is backwards for my installation.
https://youtu.be/CCvIqH8X1dY

i just found the intercooler he sent me ID marks and tracked it down. its scary.the advertisement says things like "can be successfully installed" "new plastic in glass fiber" the whole system basically needed replacement.