Build-opinions and suggestions welcome
 

So I've decided to do some modifications this spring to my 13 Z. I want a fast car that remains very streetable that I occasionally take to the track. I would like to hit 10 seconds...ultimately I will get some Welds and MT's. I am planning on bringing the Z in late March or as soon as the weather breaks. I do have a budget, and that is reflected in my list below. I have previously installed the cai and sc res.

So below is the list. Please feel free to post your suggestions or advice.

1 7/8 ceramic headers
CAI cai
sc reservoir
10" pulley w/ balancer
lfe bracket
2, 2.5 or 3 cam with springs (will leave that to the builder...he seems to want to stay w/ a 2.0 cam)
ID 1050's, BAP and ff sensor
8.5 mm wires and 7 plugs

Possibly:
- Mamo tb for better response
- ported snout
- HEX cooling

Thanks, John

Hello John, I can certainly help you achieve your goal without spending too much money.

My 13 ZL-1 auto went 11.0 et 125 mph with my JRE 125 RWHP package in 85 degree weather at full weight with just the addition of drag radials.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iAd9YDRmZ-0

My 750 HP package is capable of high 9s with a drag pack which is what you are eluding to with your list.

Feel free to give me a call 203-753-7223

Hi Ted. Thanks for the input.

I may go that route. I am familiar with your sight and familiarity around here. I can do most of the work there is one hiccup (two or three hiccups actually). I cannot do the cam, the tune or dyno. So I could do everything else (but the cam) with you and do a remote tune, but am leaning heavily towards just bringing it all to the shop.

All of my power packages including the cam packages are DIY and I provide the custom tuning and equipment to make your car perfect, it is very gratifying for my customers to be involved in the tuning process.

Ted.

Your list looks pretty solid. Though everybody wants to avoid touching the blower for the extra labor/work and potential to mess something up; shops that have done their R&D that I've spoken with say they have had better success with bearing wear and proper belt fit/size choices with a pulley combo vs massive change on either upper or lower.

My list would be pretty similar to yours, this is personal but here's what I would do:
CAI (Either Roto-Fab or RPM 5")
SC Reservoir
Ron Davis or AFCO Heat Exchanger
2.55" Upper (Solid isolator while you're at it)
9.1" Lower (ATI Balancer, LPE Ring, ARP Bolt)
ID1050X Injectors
DSX Flex Fuel Setup
BAP
Ported Blower/Snout by Kong Performance (As far as I've seen, they get the best results)
Upgraded wires with 7 Stage plugs
Tony Mamo TB
ARH Headers
All necessary parts/supplies to make it happen
Tune by a Reputable Shop

You're not too far from Weapon X (About 5-6 hours) or Speed Inc. (1-2 hours) which are two of the better shops in the North-Central area. Don't just go for the local shop-on-the-corner job. Remote tuning is great but still there's a lot to be said for an in-person Dyno tune and Street tune which will guarantee the best results.

Thanks for the info Can't. I already purchased the 10" pulley and balancer. Suggestions to pair with that? I haven't heard of Kong Performance...I'll look them up for porting.

I have a good shop 1/2 hour away...West Bend Dyno. They know their stuff (they're just minutes from RA...ha-ha). Not as much Prestige or accolades as Vengeance, Weapon X, etc., but I am very confident in their abilities.

The 10" lower pulley is at the top end of LSA supercharger overdrive so the short answer is, nothing should be paired with the 10" (Both a 2.5/8.6 combo and 10" have about the same overdrive, 28% vs 25%). As far as belt size, I think the 70" would be best. And you'll need the LPE relocation bracket and 50mm idlers according to my sources...

This is kind of why I said what I said earlier about avoiding the 10" lower. Since the lowest overdrive upper is 18% and you want to stay below 35%-40% overdrive, you shouldn't pair it with anything over a 9.1" (18% also). But a 10", which comes in at about 25% overdrive, while no where near getting to the limits of the blower, also rules out adding an upper pulley to it (Maybe the rare 2.85" upper?) so you're kind of far away from the limits of the blower but you have no way to get closer. Again, the 2.5" + 8.6" or 9.1" is the way to go. And belt slip? You won't have any if you use the right belt and stick with a 2.55". Also, cost savings of just doing the lower? Well, nope probably not either because the 10" is going to require both 50mm idlers AND the LPE relocation bracket (Plus the bolt kit and ATI damper). Keep in mind those 50mm idlers are going to spin REALLY fast which means they'll wear really fast.

Now all that said, 10" is still a viable path and don't feel like you must go out and buy a combo and sell your 10". I know the Lower-Pulley-Only-Squad (LPOS) will show up and batter me but you can't argue against the facts of what I posted.

Kong Performance or Jokerz is definitely my recommendation for blower porting, though a lot of people claim to be able to do it in house, I've seen the most cars and biggest gains come from Kong. They've had LSA's in the 850 RWHP range which is hard to do on the stock blower, no matter the pulleys and cam. They've also had LS9s (Same engine just bigger blower for the most part) on the 910-950 RWHP range on BLOWER ONLY which is mind boggling.

Very interested in this build! It is quite a bit further than I am planning on going, but who knows.

The only thing I would add to your list is a roll cage as your gonna get booted dragging that beast. Lol:bow:

:popcorn:

I would pair that with

ID-1050x injector
JRE road race special rough Idle blower cam
2 inch LT headers with or pipes
3 inch cat back Magnalfow
NW 102 TB
Port match snout
Solid isolator
Catch can
JRE crank case breather.
JMS fuel pump voltage booster
Rotofab cai


Easily 700 RWHP.

Ted.

Point of clarification: you use the stock idlers with a 10"

You are going to need more than a BAP if you want to run any significant amount of E85. I have been very happy with the DSX aux pump, you will have no fueling issues and can run full e85 and reap the benefits. If its an auto you should be fine, but if its a manual you are going to want to consider a more robust clutch.

Good point on the clutch. Just got a monster triple disk installed last Friday because the stock one was slipping. If the OP does all the mods, he'll probably be at least 60-70 hp (or more) past me.

Hey Rob: thanks for the input. I thought I read above 9.1" or 9.5" the relocation bracket is required...but I can still use the stock idlers. My understanding is the stock idlers are better w/ better bearings. So my plan is 10" lower, stock upper and relo bracket (also solid iso and porting the snout...if not more).

Would you advise against the 10" and go w/ the 9'1" as Can't suggested? I don't want to push the envelope too far. At 28% lower and stock upper I thought that was well within the parameters of "safe.

Hey Dave: Thank you for the input. I've been an avid follower of yours for a year now.

I have an auto. So upgraded clutch is not necessary. So if the Bap is a no go, you suggest just the DSX auxiliary pump?

I want to do these mods once, and do it right. I though a BAP would reap the benefits of E85..if it only reaps 50%, I will go w/ the DSX. Thanks, John