Pfadt Poly Differential Mounts Installed
 

Decided to install bushings myself, so here's some tips and lessons learned........
:burnrubber::happy0180:

FYI: Post #56 shows pics and video of a tool that makes this MUCH easier. No need to remove diff or pull CV shafts!
Mtcwby may start an new thread using this tool or add to this...... will post link if new thread.

1) The bushings can't be pressed out.... definitely "one use bushings" (even Pfadt drilled the stock ones out)
2) Differential has to be removed, 1st attempted on car with home engineered bushing press tool (NOT POSSIBLE IMO....not enough edges)
3) After drilling out rubber core, cutting 2 partial grooves in remaining sleeve aids in removal by using air hammer bit to peel up groove until it releases (yes... must use or take differential to someone who does for this part - MUCH EASIER)
4) New Pfadt bushings install easily with rubber mallot and special white synthetic grease needs to be applied to center anodized aluminum and reinstalled (grease not supplied, but ask for from Pfadt or Brandon at IPS Motorsports - I purchased full 14 oz tube from Spohn for $15 and $10 shipping)
5) Will also post torque specs later...... don't forget blue loctite for other suspension bolts and T-55 Torx attachment
6) Takes about 8-10 hrs if all tools available, and 1 hour/$60 at local 4x4 shop with my help for bushing removal (in retrospec - I had all the air tools to do myself already but pressed for time)

FACTORY BUSHINGS DEFINITLEY HAVE LOTS OF MOVEMENT! Pfadt's tightened everything up great with absolutely no negative side affects such as noise or vibration..... hooks up noticeably better, although I also had previously installed BMR trailing arms and road tested before this (Pfadt's look good, but BMR's seemed easier w/o the welding).

Getting rid of the extra rear end slop should lessen possibility of driveline damage due to wheel hop. Also hoping that by keeping the front nose of the differential case from rolling under hard acceleration, maybe the rear driveshaft bolts will survive better too.

Sooo..... 1st picture shows what I got myself into:

REAR SUSPENSION TORQUE SPECS as of 7/26/09 (found in suspension threads from DMS)
COMPONENT TORQUE SI documents 1st 2nd 2201676
4 Strut Mount to Body Bolts 43lbft 2198520
Strut to Strut Mount Nut 33lbft 2201630
Strut to lower Control Arm 59lbft 120 degrees 2196808
Lower Control Arm Inner Bushing at Adjuster 85LBFT 2198520
Lower Control Arm at Knuckle Assembly 30lbft 120 degrees 2198520
Upper Control Arm Rear Bolt to Bushing 37lbft 120 degrees 2201388
Upper Control Arm Rear Bushing Bracket Bolts 59lbft 120 degrees 2201388
Upper Control Arm Pivot Joint 59lbft 120 degrees 2198520
Upper Control Arm to Knuckle Assembly 44LBFT 90 degrees 2198520
Toe Link inner to Subframe Adjuster 85LBFT 2196934
Toe Link to Knuckle Assembly Bolt 103 lbft 2196934
Trailing Arm to Subframe Assembly (Inner) 74lbft 2197112
Trailing Arm to Knuckle Asembly 30lbft 120 degrees 2197112
Front Cradle(Subframe) Bolts to Body 74lbft 120 degrees 2198520
Rear Cradle (Subframe) Bolts to Body 74lbft 120 degrees 2198520
Front Differential Bushings 59lbft 2213853
Rear Differential bushings 59lbft 2213853
Driveshaft to Differential 85LBFT 2198520
Caliper Bracket to Knuckle Assembly (L99, LS3) 30lbft 90 degrees 2210668
Caliper Bracket to Knuckle Assembly (LLT) 30lbft 90 degrees 2210668
Rear Sway Bar End link Nuts 36lbft 2196718
Sway bar Bushing Bracket bolts 16lbft 2196709
Nut for CV shaft to Knuckle...... 199lbft/270nm (per 2 different Chevy dealers 1/21/10)
...One dealer said just use air tool and "hammer it on", other one stated their manual shows it a one use nut (end is crimped). Won't matter in my case - shafts being replaced at LPE and will get new nut.

:confused0068:

YIKES! it scares me what it will be like to change the gears now!

Thanks for the great writeup! I have a bunch of photos that are nearly identical on my hard drive right now. I am integrating those into comprehensive instructions currently.

We use the same technique that you describe to install these. I have found it a little easier to cut the bushing centers out with a sawzall rather than a hole saw, but it accomplishes the same thing.

I have some before and after video that I am editing also. Stay tuned for that . It is a big change in movement from the stock bushings to the Pfadt poly.

Thanks again for posting.

-Aaron

Good timing.... was just starting to send link your way and to Brandon at IPS! I'm sure your version will look much more professional like your other instructions. Looking forward to recieving your coilovers soon - will probably install after LPE, followed by control arm bushing kit. Trying to do only one kit per install before each assessment. Sway bars work great BTW! :thumbup:

wow.

would be a great upgrade if you were pulling the rear to install gears anyway.

Yes... these 3 bushings are a Pain in the ass.

Glad I already did mine...

Nice walkthrough by the way...

Thanks 570 - did you tackle job yourself, or LPE?

No kidding! I understand why OP did it that way, but looks like a good time to drop the cradle and do them all at once. Yes? No?

Other bushings not recieved yet, but doing all at once would definitely save time. Although, I'm curious to see how each component performs as their added. I already had installed Pfadt's sway bars and BMR's trailing arms at the same time and suspected a rough ride from sway bars. Ended up being the stock bushings on the BMR control arms binding at the knuckle mixed with cold hard tires - would have caught instantly if done in stages. Next up is Pfadt's coilovers, followed by Pfadt's 16 piece control arm bushing package (yep.... doing separate and possibly 2 alignments).

LPE package - now that comes all at once! :burnrubber:

(but with Pfadt's engine mounts - so again can analyze)

Sounds like a good plan...If it was done all at once you might still be looking for the culprit. Are more DIY's coming? :D

Probably not till after LPE.... transport arrives next Wednesday! :happy0180: :D

Looks like a bitch of an install.

Aaron can you tell me what benefits we can see from this? Would you only suggest this for very high horespower cars?

Curious to hear what these do and if they make a noticeable driving change.