kinda like Randy last year - i'll definitely need a set of wheels/tires to win that one :scared0016: no doubt!

My fat pig against your sleek svelte vette...:iono::bellyroll:

:laugh: sure, why not? it's all fun & games anyway, right... at least til somebody blows a motor?

right Kyle?

OUCH........

Too soon dude, too soon

in all fairness, i was talking about the first one from 2 years ago

They are one the way!
;)
hey..we got those too..:D
I can already hear the giggling...lol
Double OUCH!

I know there are a ton of Clutch Reservoir DIY's out there.

But here's mine. :D

:facepalm: Now I really feel retarded.

Nicely done Grasshopper.

With purity of heart a blind man can see. To achieve perfection you must search both Heaven and Earth. An empty hole is unknown in value until you fill it. Free yourself from the the bonds of the Earth to find perfection for your Clutch Reservoir installation.

http://images.zap2it.com/images/tv-E...eye-luke-1.jpg

perfection

wow... now if I can just snatch that damn pebble from your hand... I'll be good to go...


:laugh:

LOL The guys helping me with my brakes did it while I was doing something else...

For some reason looking at the new reservoir installed made a lot more sense than just holding it in my hand.

:laugh:

Good god man, what did you do to the top of that coilover? That nut is decimated!

righty-tighty, lefty-loosey


Lololol

The answer is written to those who look closely.

actually it looks like a little bit of rust on the nut.. the shape is intact if you look closely.

Chris must be hanging out at the beach in the salt spray...

That nuts been off and on probably 20 times (easily). The nut in the picture that is.

OH man... that nut was a B!TC# to get on... I had to use the impact wrench to loosen the threads on the stock struts before I could get it on the Pedders coilovers with hand tools.

Both of them were way tight... IIRC they are a lock nut so they get tighter the further down you go....

... something to strive for. ;)

Were you staking me this weekend. :D

:word: see above.

alright, i'm lost now.
why'd you need a new clutch reservoir? :iono:

Chris.. You been drinking today? you are spelling funny...:iono:
... or are you sending subliminal messages to someone? LOL


No STALKING.. just trying to be nice, for once, and stand up for you...
Look what it got me... labeled as a staker... LOL:sm0:

Because there isn't a separate resevoir. It shares the brake fluid resevoir.

see below Lol

fixed... LOL

This! we get some nasty clutch dust contamination from the shared reservoir.

Separating it keeps the brake fluid... cleaner...

Yes you want a separate clutch fluid reservoir. you don't want contaminants in the brake system.

And if you drive a standard transmission, the clutch fluid picks up a whole lot of clutch particle dust from the slave cylander. The fluid needs to be changed out occasionally.

I used to use a baby's snot sucker - looks like this, to suck up the old fluid and then add fresh fluid in the clutch reservoir.http://www.nosesucker.com/wp-content..._5210391_o.jpg

http://i.chzbgr.com/completestore/20...9957096726.jpg

i understand why you want separate reservoirs & the whole clutch dust in the fluid & all...
but you're telling me that y'all's cars have a combined clutch & brake reservoir?! :bonk:
that just seems like a ridiculous lack of engineering right there :facepalm:

and for mine, i have a big kitchen syringe with the tip of the needle cut off flat :thumbsup: i'm guessing y'all typically just do the ranger method do clean your fluid?

Lololol. Had to say it, just cause mine look about the same. I did the same thing with my stock strut, run that damn nut on and off a million times so it would get tight on the xa's. Pete and his extreme tolerances.... ;-)

Yeah.. GM saved... what.. about $1.00 in their build cost combining the reservoirs? Or.. they wanted to make more money selling reservoirs over the parts counter...

most do the ranger method.

I pity the people who havn't seperated the reservoir's and drive their cars normal.. not knowing that that crap is gonna get into everything Clutch and brake, at some time. That's gonna be an expensive fix if you left it for a few years of normal driving and didn't know about it..

Some, like me added the Tick Performance SS bleed line. I can flush the clutch fluid in under 5 minutes through the entire system, not just the reservoir. I do it after every race.

I already replaced the fluid from the Camaro fest.. and have my ABS working again now, too.:D

I'm still on a common reservoir... But I also have the bleeder line and frequently flush the lines... All clean and good... So far... A clutch res will not fit there on my car... Boost controller solenoids are mounted there...

Well I track my car so I need to look into this.

Wow, thanks for posting. Was just racking my brain this morning, trying to remember who made it. :thumbsup:

The separate clutch reservoir does keep your fluid cleaner. It does nothing to enhance performance and according to my experts the discoloration nof the fluid does not degrade performance.

well my non-expertise begs to differ. after i learned about the ranger method about a year & a half ago, i decided to test it out. i went out in my truck, which has the standard New Venture NV3500 5 speed transmission - notorious for having a horrible time trying to do a high-rpm 2-3 shift after launching in 1st - much like the f-body T56, and partially for the same reason.

test 1: went out as it sat, drove around a little to warm the truck up & then pulled from a dig. ran up to about 5500 in 2nd, and (as usual) had to double-clutch to successfully get it in 3rd. nothing new.

variable: changed the fluid in the clutch reservoir using the ranger method til everything stayed clear when i pumped the pedal. mind you, this was the first time i'd changed the fluid since i bought it in '06 and put a new clutch in (and even then, it wasn't a real flush - just a top-off).

test 2: drove out to the same place as before & from a dig, i launched, revved, and slammed second. now for the moment of truth... wound it up to about 5500 and BAM!!!! 3rd went right in. amazed & thinking it was a fluke, i turned around & did it again - this time up to 6000. once again, shifted right in with one pedal push. even on a third kicks-and-giggles run, i got the same single-pedal-effort results.

conclusion: i believe the clean fluid does, in fact, make a difference. i believe it's partly due to the design of my particular system. much like the 4th gen T56 clutch line from the master to the slave, the trucks also have a restriction in the hydraulic line. my year's system ain't just a little restrictor inside the end that can be drilled out; half of it's braided line that then molds to a narrower piece of hard plastic flex line. my belief is that the clutch dust getting in the fluid gives it a higher viscosity & therefore can't flow quite fast enough to meet the demand of refilling the reservoir in time to shift to 3rd - thus requiring another pump of the pedal to get enough fluid inside the slave to fully disengage the plate. the clean fluid, however, seemed to be able to do this much better.

outcome: when i got home, i rangered out my car's fluid as well.

note: the fluid starts getting dark after a few drives anyway, and at low RPMs with slower/smoother shifts, it don't really matter that much. but it would definitely help when racing.

my next steps: get speed bleeders on both vehicles next time i put clutches in.

It's okay, rusty nuts happen occasionally as we get older.... don't worry about it Chris, I'm sure they still work just fine :thumbup:

Most of the discoloration is from the hoses. Your variation if performance was most likely due to the fresh fluid for the first time in years.

It isn't the color of the fluid. It is the condition of fluid. Moisture content, boiled fluid, low temperature fluid, etc...

I don't portend to be a expert in the field of brake and clutch hydraulics, but I did sleep at a Holiday Inn three weeks ago :D All kidding aside, I am fortunate to have access to some of the best of the best in the industry. When they talk I listen, unless I don't like their answer :bellyroll:

Hmm... Then I guess time will tell.. As all my clutch lines are now Stainless Steel with Teflon/PTFE inside.. so there should be no discoloration... from the hoses, anyway.:)

As to Pete sleeping at a Holiday Inn.. I hope it was OK... I havn't stayed at a H. Inn in a Long time.. and I still remember the last one there, about 8+ yrs ago. Easy to remember when the air conditioner leaks and leaves 1" of water on the floor overnight.. Kind of a knee jerk wake up call in the middle of the night's bathroom run... WTF??? Oh Damn...!!!

Ask me how I know about this...

hence my current SS brake lines and DOT4 Super Blue brake fluid.

83 mph into a turn at Harris Hills with no brakes. :yikes:

I boiled my brake fluid at the end of the 4th track session. 4 sessions at 20min per session. About 50 min between my sessions. Once the brake fluid gets that hot, you MUST change it out. I know you know this...just saying in general.


yeah...that was some scary sh!t.

I got some fluid that will fix that "little" problem :D

Moisture ruins brake fluid - literally. I use a lot of the Ranger's methods in my general maintenance/upkeep, but one thing that I follow to a T is that I always use a brand new bottle when swapping fluid. Once you open the bottle it's all downhill from there.

When doing a fluid flush that makes sense. But the brake fluid in the system can't help be be exposed to the elements. The reservoir itself isn't air tight..

When adding to the reservoir, as long as the fluid isn't months old it shouldn't make a difference.

As far as preserving the fluid you have in the bottle, I aggree, Don't open it unitl you plan to use it. And at $70 for the SRF I may put the leftover fluid in a vacuum sealed container. :laugh:

hygroscopic brake fluid is made to absord moisture. That's how the "wet" boiling point is determined, which is much lower than the dry. 3, 4, 5.1

If you put hypophobic brake fluid (DOT 5 does not absorb moisture) it will keep a higher boiling point over it's life, but moisture and the fluid will be separate. Not good.

Moisture is going to happen just with hot engines and cool outside temps. Condensation you can't beat. What happened to Doug is he met and surpassed that wet boiling temp and the fluid was literally vaporized. That vapor is compressed which won't allow the flow of hydraulic fluids.

Charts usually show a 3.7% value of moisture to achieve a "wet" boiling temp. The more we drive with the same fluid in there, the more moisture it's going to absorb and that value will get larger while your boiling point keeps decreasing.

So, moisture is going to happen period. You want it to be absorbed in the fluid, you just want to change it more often if you track your car.

:D

Hence why the SRF stuff is so guuuder :laugh:

Yup. That and you gots some big brakes.

yeah, i reckon i did for get to take that into account