Sound Tube Delete = Check engine light
 

I finally got around to doing the sound tube delete this weekend. Everything went smoothly. I purchased a plastic push in plug for the intake and it was very snug but I still used a clamp on it to make sure.

I took it out and did about a good 20 miles driving, normal and spirited and no issues yesterday. This morning I start the car to go to work and I have a check engine light. I am at work so I can't get the actual code until tonight but just wondering is anyone has had this issue? I think I am going to RTV the intake plug just to make sure. Any thoughts?

Definitely shouldn't do that. Did mine recently, plus an Airaid intake tube, and no lights came up. You sure you didn't disconnect something you shouldn't have?

pretty sure, but if it was going to throw a code I figured it would have done it right after I deleted the tube. I took it and drove it for about 45 minutes and no issues, just this morning at start up.

Did you forget to plug your MAF in?

Get the code and go from there. Could be coincidental, but not likely. My sound tube came off the day I bought the car, 11k miles, no issues.

I too deleted mine a few days after buying my car.
I have had no engine or CEL issues whatsoever after doing that.
As long as no air leaks or loose connections were created as a result, the act of removing the sound tube should never cause a CEL in and of itself.

Using RTV to seal around the plugged hole is a very good idea.
Some cars can be extremely sensitive to un-metered air leaks on the intake.
Also, you might want to unplug the MAF sensor, put some dielectric (silicone) grease on the connections and plug it in again.

Without knowing why the CEL came on (what code caused it), it may be difficult to determine a fix.
You might try buying a cheap code reader or borrowing one.
Also, you can sometimes go to Autozone stores and they will read it for you for free.

I removed the sound tube as soon as I brought it home. That's almost a year now and 10.5k miles, no CEL. Get the code, it could be coincidental or you knocked something loose, etc.......... not sure what you used as a push in type plug.

I use what other have, rubber chair tip, that pushes over the intake elbow fitting. Got it from Lowes. And I re-used a factory clamp to make sure a good seal and no unmetered air could get in.

well I got in there Monday night and nothing looked or felt loose. I did not mess with disconnecting any sensors like the MAF. I checked the codes and I had a P0480 and a PO691. I went back and checked the fans and connections, fan fuse etc and everything was good. Both low and high fan speeds OK. So I reset the codes and drove it that night for about an hour with no issues. It is my daily driver so no issues so far.

This was my first CEL in this car ever (2+ years owning it). it did happen on a cold start so I am wondering if maybe the battery is starting to go as it is about 3.5 years old and this Texas heat can really mess with the batteries.

Well, 5 days later the check engine came on again. About 2 hours cruising around. Stopped at a store for about 10 minutes, come out, start car, get to light and notice that AC is not cold, that is when I noticed the check engine light (wasn't there when I started the car).

Took the car into the dealership and they replaced the fan assembly ($1006.29) and I asked them to replace the battery as well (it's about 3.5 years old) as the Texas heat just kills them. The fan was covered under my no deductible extended warranty.

I'll be driving the car about 1700 miles next week so...I have my AAA card, my Geico auto assist, and my extended warranty info all ready to go.